oil Pan/Drain Plug stripped

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Old 10-01-2014, 04:00 PM
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oil Pan/Drain Plug stripped

It looks like my oil pan is stripped. I took it for an oil change and the mechanic pointed it out to me. He said I can either get a new pan or the oil drain plug kit. My car is still under warranty for another 1k miles. Would the pan be covered under it if I took it to the dealer? What's the best route for me to take and how much is each option...has anyone else had this issue? I have over 98k miles....
Old 10-01-2014, 04:29 PM
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if its stripped it is because of negligence, so you will not get a free replacement.

it is stripped because whoever did your oil changes are not using the right socket.. or they are using a impact gun, which are both no-no's

pay 30 bucks, get yourself a new oil drain plug from acura, do your own oil changes and that should solve your problem..

btw.. never heard of anyone suggestion a whole oil pan just for a drain plug..

stripped bolts can be removed in a variety of ways.. one of which is to drill it out then back the bolt out.

if you just google it.. you will find many ways

https://www.google.com/search?q=remo...x-a&channel=sb
Old 10-01-2014, 04:43 PM
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^you got the right idea in heart, but what I think OP is suggesting that the oil pan drain hole is stripped and not the bolt itself, well...the bolt is what caused it...improper tightening/threading the bolt incorrectly.

there's actually a few options you or a mechanic can do.
1. replace oil pan with new oil pan. (100 dollars from acuraoemparts.com)( butt, a bitch to get off, specifically one of the bolts is hidden by the subframe.
2. Time sert fix
3. Drain plug kit.

Option #2 would be the option I would go with. then the new oil pan, and the drain plug would be my last option
Old 10-01-2014, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
^you got the right idea in heart, but what I think OP is suggesting that the oil pan drain hole is stripped and not the bolt itself, well...the bolt is what caused it...improper tightening/threading the bolt incorrectly.

there's actually a few options you or a mechanic can do.
1. replace oil pan with new oil pan. (100 dollars from acuraoemparts.com)( butt, a bitch to get off, specifically one of the bolts is hidden by the subframe.
2. Time sert fix
3. Drain plug kit.

Option #2 would be the option I would go with. then the new oil pan, and the drain plug would be my last option


Yeah its the threads on the oil pan. What is a time sert fix and how much and where can I find it? sad part is sometimes I've done my oil change or someone else.
Old 10-01-2014, 04:55 PM
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++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair, (link)


also, google time sert fixes and see if it's something you can do or a mechanic.
Old 10-01-2014, 05:19 PM
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damn i would just do the time-sert if that is the case. but yea next time do your own oil changes.
Old 10-01-2014, 11:44 PM
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Only had one car with a stripped oil pan and that was my Wife's truck when she was my girl friend and had the quickie oil change places do the oil. I have never had a problem with a stripped oil pan doing my own oil changes. The TL has an aluminum pan so it's much softer than the bolt and will strip if you over-torque the bolt.

Go with the time sert as a first attempt- worse case is you'll need a new pan. For your next car or oil pan, you might want to try a Fumoto plug instead. Nobody will strip that unless they are an idiot on initial install.
Old 10-02-2014, 08:31 AM
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I checked on RockAuto and a oil pan is $165 and a Time-Sert from what Ive found run from $100-130.

How much am I looking at in Labor/Install for either one?
Old 10-02-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DrewQ35
I checked on RockAuto and a oil pan is $165 and a Time-Sert from what Ive found run from $100-130.

How much am I looking at in Labor/Install for either one?
Time sert will be easier and faster to install.

if i remember correctly,to remove the oil pan, there are a couple of bolts hidden by the subframe. for the inexperienced, it could be very tricky squeezing your hand into the tight spot.
also, there might be a trick to it, either by cutting the wheel either to the left or the right.
Old 10-02-2014, 03:03 PM
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I am not sure what 4th generation year TL you have or if it is SH-AWD equipped, but for a 2009 base TL you can get the OEM oil pan with a new drain plug and washer for $82.08 without shipping from OEMacuraparts.com. I had to have it replaced on my 04 TL because the oil had been changed so many times and the threads were tired (200k+). I would say just bite the bullet and get a new one installed. If I remember correctly, the labor only costed me $200.00 at the dealer. I have a great relationship with them though, so... The 04 just requires removal of the surrounding bolts and then prying it away from the engine block. Once that is done, the surface should be cleaned and then coated with Honda Bond or a similar product for use as a liquid gasket. The bolts are then tightened down in some cris-cross manner I believe. The 4th generation is likely the same depending on which model you own. Stripped threads are caused by either over tightening, multiple (40+) tight oil changes, or a crooked install.
Old 10-02-2014, 03:11 PM
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My old car (98 camry) had a stripped oil pan thread (nut welded inside the oil pan) went with the next size up bolt (oversized bolt) and it lasted several years until I traded it in. Sketchy at first but never had a problem. To change the oil pan on the camry the tranny had to be pulled. If that was not the case it would been the simple case emptying the oil and removing several bolts.
Old 10-02-2014, 03:15 PM
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By the way, here is an important thought. Resetting or drilling the threads can cause serious problems if you don't drop the oil pan and clean it of loose metal thread excess afterwords. One of my friends drilled in new threads on his TL and drained new oil through (engine off) multiple times to flush any bits out. Soon after he started it, the oil pressure light came on. It turned out that a metal shard from the threads had become logged in the relief valve of the oil pump. He immediately turned it off, but this required diagnosis, removal of the timing belt, and replacement of the oil pump. Food for thought if you are considering going the cheap way....
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