Iceman52489

So there is a story and a question to this post. I <3 driving my TL and have hit 11k miles on it aready..so time for my 2nd oil change. I went and got it changed, afterwards went to wash my car. After that I noticed my monitor is still at 15%, so the first though that ran into my mind was that Jiffy Lube forgot to put it in (after all it was literally 5 mins). Went there and they said that they gave me an oil change and that THEY are suppose to reset my oil level. I couldn't believe this, I thought the moniter was suppose to reset when they put it in. So they proved it to me by flipping to the page in the manual.

Now my question is, if the mechanics reset it themselves, I don't see how the meter does anything at all. All this talk about that we should follow it..I can reset it anytime I want..and how does this work on synthetic oil?

Bearcat94

First - Don't use Jiffy Lube. Crap oil; crap filters; crap technicians. Next hing you know you'll need a new Oil Pan because Spike stripped your pan at the oil drain bolt.

Mechanic resets the counter. That's how it is in every car with a maint counter I've owned (at least 3, maybe 4 or 5).

Oil Life is predicted based on a number of variables:

- Time
- Miles
- RPM
- Temp
- etc.

So it is predictive based on how you drive and the conditions you drive in, but it is not some kind of direct measurement of oil quality.

Iceman52489

Is the Acura dealer the best place to go?

So if I get synthetic oil, I should go based on miles and not the monitor?

Bearcat94

Consider the following:

- Dealer if cost competitive
- Regional/National Chain (Firestone, etc)
- Local Honda/Acura Independent

Oil Change is easy enough, but somewhere with a better level of tech is preferred. Even those listed above may use marginal materials or charge significantly more for high quality materials.

BUT, you can buy your own Oil and Filter and have it used at the dealer, etc. Cost of the Oil Change should be ~$15 - $20 with your materials OR ~$25 with standard oil and filter OR ~$60 with "full" synthetic oil.

You'll get the absolute best care doing it yourself.

Check your Owners Manual regarding Synthetic Oil and the Oil Change Interval. In the 3G it basically says, You can use synthetic, but still must follow the MID maint schedule.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

Does the MID actually alert you when to change the oil? I'm at 20% or 15% and haven't seen any alert. I have yet to get an oil change, I'm under 5,000 miles. I figured if it hit 10% and I did not see an alert yet, I would just change it.

Bearcat94

You should get something, but on the 4G I am not sure what exactly. 3G starts gives a prompt in the MID at 10% (iirc) and gets really irritating (like the low fuel warning, it just keeps popping up) around 0% or 5%.

hydr0

I'm at 10% right now and it reminds me every time I turn the car on lol. I don't remember changing a setting in the MID. When I get in the car, it defaults the MID to show the oil level %, even though I put it back miles every time.

SodaLuvr

Oil Life Monitor should still be followed. Synthetic oil does not always extend the service interval.

prepreludesh

True, I would like to add to this by saying that oil life is also "predicted" by the MID by the ECU factoring in how many times the car has been turned on and off (that wears on oil quicker), how many times the engine has been engaged in WOT (wide open throttle) and also the length of the trip, as in if the car didn't have enough time to properly reach operating temperature (another thing that eats away at oil life).

Use the intervals that are recommended for OEM-spec oil for synthetic too. Although theoretically synthetic wears better than mineral oil, you're only protecting your engine better if you change synthetic at the same interveals as regular mineral oil because the synthetic has more life in it at the time of the change, meaning protection remained more consistent than the mineral oil that began to lose performance as the oil aged.

evocative

so does this mean, we should keep the oil from the factory in the engine for about 9K miles??

Eli

Yeah don't go to Jiffy Lube, I went there once thinking what could they possibly screw up on an oil change. And the kid there forgot to put the bolt back on, and let the new oil all drain out. Drove away none the wiser. This was on an old car, would never take an Acura there or anything I'm not planning on getting rid of.

guytdt

Oil analysis will tell better but I think it's overkilled.
To me I will do oil change when
1. Reach 5K miles or
2. Reach 6 months or
3. Reach 15%
whichever comes first.

dshahs420

Wrong. Try again. Synthetic oil ALWAYS extends service intervals if the driving pattern does not change. OLM's can't distinguish between synthetic and conventional oil and that's the ONLY reason why it can't extend the service interval. After having done over 200 Used Oil Analysis(UOA's) I can confidentely conclude that when synthetics run at the same OCI's have a much higher TBN(The Base Number) than conventional. The only advantage synthetic oil has over conventional oil IS longer oil change intervals otherwise there would be no reason to pay 2X the price of conventional oil. API SM rated oils be conventional or synthetic if used at proper intervals will not only protect but also keep an engine clean equally. If using the OLM, I would urge people to use conventional oil because synthetic oil would be like throwing money away.

prepreludesh

Oh no, now you've done it. You've turned this whole thread into a conventional versus synthetic argument.

I'll save everybody the trouble of posting anything by using one simple statement:

If you believe synthetic oil is better than conventional, you're going to buy it and use it and feel better using it.

If you believe conventional oil is better (or at least the equivelant) of synthetic oil, then you're never going to make the switch and keep preaching your cost effectiveness and savings over everyone else.

This argument has no right and wrong answers until everyone that has an "opinion" about the stuff all comes together at some kind of "end-all, be-all" test facility and puts both oils head to head in such a huge battery of tests, that there would be no choice but to declare a winner. Oh, and the entire thing has to be reproduced weekly for the other group of people that did not attend the testing and the results always have to be the same, so that nobody can think in their minds "well I didn't see it with my own eyes, so it must not be true."

winstrolvtec

I am pretty sure Acura bases the MID off of it's brand labeled oil you find at the Honda and Acura dealers, but the problem is it is way overpriced and it is essentially mobile clean 5000. You can buy it for half the price in an auto parts store or even at Mobile gas stations. They also say to use their filter, a lot of debate goes into this but at least if there is any problem, you used there stuff, they can't say anything. The system monitors on a 5,000 mile interval, assuming 5,000 mile oil and adjusts accordingly. When you go for a basic oil change, they are providing you with the cheapest barrel oil they can get, even at the dealership and that's up to the individual to decide if it's enough protection for that long, but Honda recommends you use the mobile clean 5000. Mobile also make an extended 7,500 mile oil and synthetic Mobile 1 for more assured protection, other brand versions are suitable as well as long as they are good for at least 5k miles. No matter what you use, it is recommended to stick with the MID for the other service requirements. If you go sythentic or extended and want to get more of your money's worth, than wait for the MID to hit 0% or run it a little after but stay with the MID. The most important thing to remember, regardless of what you decide to use, is to be sure the vehicle is always running at the appropriate oil level.

prepreludesh

Dammit man, I see you have a high post count and stuff, but I didn't believe one damn thing you just said.

First off, the MID can't be based on a 5,000 mile interval. The system might start off that way but it's not like the oil life is going to show 50% when you hit 2,500 miles. The program is based on alot of factors that says when you "should" change it.

Second off, I don't think that Honda or Acura say anywhere in their books that you should use "Mobil 5000," they all say you should use Genuine Honda/Acura Oil and Filter because they have been "specially formulated for your vehicle".

Third, the 5,000 mile oil change interval is null and void if you live in an area that sees sub-zero temperatures or extremely hot temperatures for a majority of the year, also if you do a majority of city driving or if you live in an extremely dusty/sandy climate. The book recommends an oil change interval of 3,000 miles.

winstrolvtec

Dude I use synthetic not to have to worry about that stuff, but Honda spec oil is Mobile regular grade. Yes, it is not an active measure, maybe you misunderstood me, but in order for the sytem to "guess", it needs a mileage basis to go off of. If you have certain regional or geographical circumstances, then what I said doesn't apply anyway.

prepreludesh

Are you saying that the quarts of Honda or Acura Oil that are labeled as such, are really just Mobile 5000 with a different sticker on the bottle?

Because Mobile 5000 is a pure synthetic and Honda/Acura Oil is conventional mineral oil.

winstrolvtec

From the website, I am not suggesting anything on you, please do what you like, but I have been down this road before. It's the same, Honda is not in the oil business, they repackage.

winstrolvtec

A ton of this kind of info was covered in the 3G section over the passed few years, there is days worth of extensive reading material there on the whole oil topic, if anyone is interested. It is also fairly well known that the TL's newer spec filter is just a widely used Fram product. Somwhere mid cycle last gen they switched from Filtech to Fram, probably due to the fact that they changed most of the Honda and Acura lineup to use the same exact one and to cut down on the cost. There is probably some kind of bidding or cost effective contracting that takes place. Many argued the previous filter was of better quality, but if they recommend and warranty the Fram, it's fine by me, of course there are plenty of other high quality filters available. There may even be a few of the old filters floating around.

dshahs420

Prepreludesh, Acura/Honda is indeed Mobil Clean 5000 which is a conventional oil. Mobil 7500 is semisynthetic and their Mobil 1 line is fully synthetic. Acura/Honda oil filters, the newer versions are rumored to be a debadged Fram but I can't verify or deny this claim. But from a handful of filters cut open, they sure do look like a fram filter.
As for the conventional v/s synthetic debate of which is better, its like debating about religion, in the end you accomplish nothing. What I was objecting was the fact that the moderator said that synthetics don't extend drain intervals which is total BS. The only reason someone should use synthetic over conventional is not because it is better but to extend intervals. I usually use Pennzoil and when I use the yellow bottle Pennzoil and do a UOA at 5k miles the TBN usually reads in the high 2's. When I have done a UOA on Pennzoil Platinum with 5k miles with similar driving conditions the TBN is usually in the low 4's. Please understand that TBN is not linear so you can't say the synthetic can go twice as much as conventional Yellow Bottle. My point to summarize, use CONVENTIONAL oil if you are going to follow the OLM. If you want to extend intervals(great for those who drive a lot of miles a year) use Synthetic Oil but extend the intervals by 30% to be on the safe side than what the OLM would go off with conventional oil. For those who change their own oil like me another product I highly recommend is a Fumoto Valve at www.fumotovalve.com it cuts my Oil change in half and its done right. Nothing like a cold beer on a Sunday afternoon in the garage doing an oil change. Plus I love oil geekery.

prepreludesh

I love oil geekery too, but between you and me and not to create a thread diversion, but when I tore apart my 225,000 mile H22 in my prelude, the engine, which had been pampered with synthetic its whole life, looked to be in perfect condition. Not a spec of yellow varnish or any gummy build up areas. It was spectacular. It barely burnt oil too. Every car I see that has had conventional oil ran through it always had that yellow varnish and I could only imagine what the build up did for performance. Since that day on, I decided that I would never use conventional again. And I also have been using K&N oil filters for the past 3 years with what I feel to be, great success. Oil changes are incredibly expensive as you can tell (because I'm also using Royal Purple), but they are the lifeblood of my car so I don't mind.

sgmotoring

My first oil change was at 40% and 6800+ miles. At that rate it will go 9K miles. When I was working for Acura, I remember oil got very dirty once they pass 5k miles. Next time you visit your dealer, ask a technician if they would change oil at 9K miles, if it was his TL.

dshahs420

That is weird that you had varnish build-up using conventional oil. I have had nothing but outstanding results with conventional oil. All the cars that I have kept from birth to death or retired has been torn down and not a single engine with varnish or sludge. If you do sensible OCI's in your vehicles using conventional, there should be no problem. The usual culprit of varnish is a plugged PCV or negligence in oil changes by owners. JMO, A person who loves oil geekery should also know that Mobil Clean is not Synthetic. K&N is a great filter and if it were a bit less expensive, I'd use it. I prefer to use Wix, which I can get for around $3.50. As for Royal Purple I have never used it but all the used oil analysis I have seen so far has not impressed me. It is not worth the $9/qt. I am a little biased as I worked for SOPUS for some time and now I get my oil for free so my oil changes basically costs me ~$4

P.S. I just tore down a 2002 Toyota Corolla engine for a friend of mine and I personally changed his oil every 5k miles with a few 8k runs using nothing but Pennzoil Yellow bottle and not a hint of varnish or sludge found in the top end. Clean as a whistle!

RoboHopar

I switched to synthetic after my first oil change and have seen a little raise in performance/gas mileage. Also engine is more responsive.