When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey yall..
What causes the oil consumption on these j37s? I've put 500 miles since I got car back from dealership and I was at top mark on the dipstick. Now I'm almost to middle. I'd say that's almost half court. I don't see any signs from exhaust like black tips or anything.
Ya the scraping ring. Middle ring. What does it take for acura to replace pistons for free? I've few articles this morning. One lady stated acura wanted all receipts for all oil changes in order to do the job.
why is this happening only on the j37? We have a 09 RL with j35 and no issues, that's why we bought the TL SHAWD
Replacing the pistons in piston rings will not fix the issue the real question is what is causing the scraper ring to fail I read articles on here where people have done to 3 engine rebuilds buy acura and still have the same oil consumption
I'm not sure it's agreed upon why the j37 burns oil and the j35 doesn't... Different materials used or just faulty piston rings etc.
Regardless let me be clear that you need to call the dealership asap and ask to schedule the oil consumption test. There are time and milage limits so you need to do it ASAP.
I did the test with my car and failed so I got my engine fixed. The process was simple. They do an oil change and you come back 3 times each when it's 1 quart low. They check the oil, add a quart and record how many miles driven. They then average it out by dividing the total miles driven by the 3 quarts. It needs to burn 1 quart or more for every 1000 miles on average to fail.
Then they asked for the oil change records if it's not done at the dealer. They want to be sure the oil was changed regularly and not neglected. They only needed oil change records since I owned it, possibly because it was dealer maintained before I bought it. So I gave them the records and they send it to corporate for approval. Then you schedule the repair when parts are available.
Replacing the pistons in piston rings will not fix the issue the real question is what is causing the scraper ring to fail I read articles on here where people have done to 3 engine rebuilds buy acura and still have the same oil consumption
I believe in most cases it does fix the issue. At least for a while. Stories like that are out there but the majority of people say that their car stops burning oil and the engine even runs stronger. That has been my experience. It has not burnt any oil since and is running very good.
The paperwork I got in the mail states 8 years from the original date of vehicle purchase or 200,000 km whichever occurs first. Just say you would like to schedule the test for the warranty extension of excessive oil consumption.
Yes I am checking the oil level of the flat level surface I just purchased the vehicle week ago I had the 1st oil change done acura dealership there using 5w20. I have only put 500 miles on the car since that oil change.
That may all be true but if he still qualifies for the test then he is running out of time. Why not try to book the test and if they allow it he can just fudge the test to get it to fail. That's what I would do.
Just got off phone with service advisor at acura of Bellevue.
I have the 8 year warranty till September 21st 2021. Since they just did my oil change last week I'm supposed to drive and bring back the car at 111800miles. In mean time if I need add oil just document to the 10th how much oil I put in.
That's good news. Make sure you get something in writing from them that you are doing the oil consumption test before it expires. And my advice to you is to make sure it fails their test. This opportunity won't come again. See to it that it fails one way or another.
Straight up when I did the test I did not cheat. But that's because I did not have to. Imo Acura messed up and if your car burns a lot of oil it should be fixed by them. Even if it's less than 1 quart for 1000 miles. Which is a huge amount of oil consumption.
So I would not suggest draining it just in case they marked the drain plug or something like that.I would rather suggest siphoning it out of the top.
I'm not sure it's agreed upon why the j37 burns oil and the j35 doesn't... Different materials used or just faulty piston rings etc.
.....
The J35 engine uses cast iron liner as cylinder sleeve, whereas the J37 uses high silicon aluminum liner instead due to the thinner cylinder walls resulting from bigger cylinder cavity bored into the same engine block.
This is the difference that ruins the J37, and Honda/Acura has since discontinued this V6 engine version.
The J35 engine uses cast iron liner as cylinder sleeve, whereas the J37 uses high silicon aluminum liner instead due to the thinner cylinder walls resulting from bigger cylinder cavity bored into the same engine block.
This is the difference that ruins the J37, and Honda/Acura has since discontinued this V6 engine version.
Yes and no; Alusil was used however the design changed in around 2009 for the TL and 2010 for MDX to use lower tension rings on the pistons. The lower tension rings clog with carbon and cause burning issues along with excessive cylinder/piston wear. Not the fault of the Alusil but the rings themselves. Acura replaced plenty of heads on engines looking for a solution thinking Dual Vtec had something to do with the consumption. After a few long blocks came in through warranty they understood the issue being the changed rings. There is an updated part number for pistons and rings. Only car with the 1st Gen J37 is the 2007-2009 MDX to my knowledge; Uses Alusil and does not have Dual VTEC
J37 is discontinued due to issues making it meet emissions and would have little market gain with extra displacement.
Ok.
but if acura does replace my pistons and rings with same parts, not updated parts the problem will come back. I guess I can do job myself and buy performance pistons and ring. Sleeve block.
Yes and no; Alusil was used however the design changed in around 2009 for the TL and 2010 for MDX to use lower tension rings on the pistons. The lower tension rings clog with carbon and cause burning issues along with excessive cylinder/piston wear. Not the fault of the Alusil but the rings themselves. Acura replaced plenty of heads on engines looking for a solution thinking Dual Vtec had something to do with the consumption. After a few long blocks came in through warranty they understood the issue being the changed rings. There is an updated part number for pistons and rings. Only car with the 1st Gen J37 is the 2007-2009 MDX to my knowledge; Uses Alusil and does not have Dual VTEC
J37 is discontinued due to issues making it meet emissions and would have little market gain with extra displacement.
gold nugget of technical knowledge - thanks for sharing
Here is latest update.
I went to Acura of Bellevue.
I did oil consumption test. I burned 1174ml oil in 1000k .
I got the call I was waiting for last night.
APPROVED!!!
In about 5 days once the parts come in they will do the rebuild. New pistons and rings. Imalso having them install new water pump and timing belt kit. They said I would just need to pay parts no labour since that stuff is coming off. We'll water pump is not but he said its a 10min job and he won't charge labour on it..
I'm so happy
Ask them to check oil pump and pan and you can pay for labor to reseal if they are leaking. Same with front main seal, valve cover gaskets too! I'd also pay for new side engine mount if yours is worn/broken.
Good Morning .... Happy Mother days to all the mom out there.
Quick update on my Oil consumption engine repair.
I dropped the car off last weds day, I had the service writer called me yesterday with the issues found on the Engine.,
Rear Main seal leaking
Worn out camshaft Lobe and rocker arm damaged due to it
axle seal leaking.
I told him to go ahead and get everything. There will be no labor cost since they are doing the oil cons. repair, and everything is already off the engine. all parts i am looking at just under $1300. The camshaft alone is almost $700
timing Belt kit $160, Water pump $110, and the rocker arm was like 200.
is it normal to ask the shop to see my damaged parts ie camshaft, rocker arm?
also can I keep the parts?
My car should be done this coming tuesday. They gave us a 2021 TLX type SHAWD Fully loaded.
and this car is super nice, dynamic mode is awesome!!!
Not to happy with engine performance , using the 2.0T engine on such a big car. this car needs a V6 or V8
They can't give the old parts but they can take pictures for you if they are doing it under warranty (they send honda old parts). If you pay then certainly you can get parts back. Be sure to call ASAP and mention it to them
Update
Finally 7 business days and TL is ready!
They ended replacing Bank 2 Camshaft, one bad rocker arm, Rear Main seal, Timing belt, water pump, and the warranty repair. no Labor cost at all only parts out of pocket $1433. the camshaft alone was $670.
They put all my old parts in a the trunk. i will post pictures today and share .
Question:
Do i need to do some sort of break in Period, with the new rings and stuff?
I feel like no one got this fix done without paying something extra on top. There's always something they come up with. I'm sure in most cases it's a good thing though. Especially not paying Labour. Although the parts department makes a healthy profit lol.
I asked them about a break in period and they basically had no idea why I was asking about it. I did anyways, I went easy on it for about 1000 miles (under 4000 rpm) and then did an oil change. After that I drove as normal (VTEC all day).
It looks like camshaft journal have scoring issues too (probably low oil level caused this). Also interested in condition of exhaust valve/seat condition. Exhaust valve was working out of spec for some time.
Good time to move up to 5w-30 oil
03-18-2021, 05:49 AM
