ron3.7

I want to switch to synthetic oil which oil should I use I have a 2013 Acura TL Sh awd I was thinking mobile one extended performance 5w 20 ya its over at walmart

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yeah, thats a fine oil.
you will see a long life out of the car as long as you change the oil when the oil life monitor indicates >15%

ron3.7

Ok this will be the cars 2nd oil change since I've had it it has about 12000 on it will that make the oil life monitor go down in percentage from 100% slower or is that monitor basically a time thing so in other words synthetic will make the oil life monitor go down slower before the next oil change?

mylove4cars

Tires & Rims thing (NO?)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

no.

the oil that you have picked out is not a full synthetic.
its a synthetic blend and is fine for everyday driving. might just even call it a regular oil.
follow the MID on the dash.

the oil life monitor operates on an algorithm.
the factors include start ups, RPMs and other factors.

so, if you drive ALL CITY with RPMs reaching higher than 4k, you'll see the oil life monitor decrease more rapidly than if you were to always drive at 2k rpm on the highways.


its not rocket science.
follow the on board computer with oil changes.
you'll see 6-7k mile oil change intervals.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

What ^^^ said.

The type of oil used has no affect on the algorithm used for the MID.

mylove4cars

Justin, Mobil states the following:

"Mobil 1 Extended Performance
You've never seen an oil like this before. Mobil 1™ Extended Performance is a high-performance synthetic motor oil that keeps your engine running like new and provides protection for up to 15,000 miles between oil changes. This advanced full synthetic formulation helps extend engine life, reduce oil breakdown and minimize engine wear."

I know the European Mobile 1 is a 0W-40 and has more zinc and phosphorus which is advisable if the engine is constantly under heavy load (like driving from Holland to Austria on the German Autobahn, driving 160 Mph and up consistently for hours, this is common over there and demanding on the engine). European Mobile 1 0W-40 is the standard for most higher end cars in Europe and is not the EP, nonetheless where do you base yourself on to state that Mobil 1 EP is not fully synthetic?

Btw. All synthetic oils are blends.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

thats all marketing.

they can claim its synthetic because its a blend.
the m1 0w-40 is the only true synthetic.

i run redline 5w-30 which is another true synthetic.

because of today's advancement in oil composition and tighter engine tolerances, we are able to see longer oil change intervals on regular blended oils for the general consumers.

so, a 5w-30 M1 oil is fine for the general consumer.
please please dont over think and over analyze

the M1 marketing team does a very great job

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

so, we've come to the same conclusion.

just buy whatever is the cheapest, because ALL oils will do the same, as long as you change it according to the MID

mylove4cars

Justin, you know that a large company like Mobil is vulnerable for legal action in case they sell marketing hype.

An independent analysis will tell the story; I'm curious, you are a sensible guy, where do you base yourself on to state this, do you have some kind of proof to back this up?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

just by reading.

Brock79

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I know the European Mobile 1 is a 0W-40 and has more zinc and phosphorus which is advisable if the engine is constantly under heavy load (like driving from Holland to Austria on the German Autobahn, driving 160 Mph and up consistently for hours, this is common over there and demanding on the engine). [/QUOTE]

That's such a BS statement, no body is driving at 160 plus for hours on the Autobahn. I know cars reach that speed, but not for hours on end. Even the best built car can't run at that speed and do it through the life of the car. Also driving at that speed is a fatiguing experience and a very involved task.

mylove4cars

Brock, I'm not going to argue with you, I'm only going to tell you this. I lived there for almost 45 years and travel over there on a regular bases. I drive a lot from Brussels (Belgium) to Vienna (Austria) cross the German Autobahn and have driven many hundred thousand's of miles (Km) over there. Are you calling me a liar?

HeartTLs

iTrader: (5)

I'm going this summer and would like to rent something close to or even mildly exotic to do a few laps on The Ring, any suggestions on where to rent or anything else to keep in mind?

Brock79

Actually yes I am, I may have not lived there for 45 years or driven thousands of miles there, but a car is a car in terms of its mechanical makeup. Only a small % of cars produced can even reach 160 MPH let alone pass it. At this point even on the super cars this is creating a lot of stress on the entire vehicle, so much so that hours of driving 160 plus would result in a catastrophic failure. Let's not even mention the tires that can't hold up at 160 for hours on end.

mylove4cars

Yes sure, If you like I can e-mail you and set you up with some excitement and better prices on hotels/motels - food etc.

On the ring itself you can rent all kind of cars, a Porsche 911 is a lot of fun and not to expensive.

mylove4cars

Brock, you can believe whatever you like, that's fine for me. Calling me a liar is not fine and is not taken lightly.

Brock, you are a disgrace for this forum, harassing members is asking for banning which you deserve IMHO. It’s up to the moderators.

ron3.7

Guys all i wanted to know is whats a good synthetic oil to use do i dare mention whats a good oil filter I was thinking of just getting a filter at the dealership because I want to change out the drain plug anyways. Its ether a dealership filter or a Wix oil filter. And guys take it easy no ones a liar you just got different opinions.

mylove4cars

Ron, sorry don't want to hijack you're thread, if you go with Mobil 1 5W-20 EP go with the Mobil 1 filter Model M1110 Autozone, PepBoys ect have them for about $9 - My dealership charges $19 to put the oil and filter.

In case you go that route, be specific at the service department to put 4.5 quart that is filter included. The reason I'm pointing that out is because Mobil 1 EP comes in a 5 quart container, they don't pay attention and fill your baby up with the 5 quart, not so good. 4.5 quart you need to tell them.

dirtyo2000

Brock is a funny guy. Not half as smart has he believes lol. Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic oil and will be more than fine. It is a Tier 3 oil and maybe that's why he believes it's not a full synthetic but a blend. Amsoil is a tier 4 oil and has a better composition but Mobil 1 still meets the classification of full synthetic being a tier 3. The energy conserving logo on the back carries more moly within the oil which adds or prolongs it's ability to hold viscosity before break down.

There are many cars that can sustain high speeds for extended periods of time with no problems lol. They're built for it. You don't see them because there is nowhere over here to do it. I was stationed in Germany for 6 years. Had a M7 that I could set the cruise at 150 lol. Hated to leave it over there but didn't want to pay to have it converted to clear customs. Germany has some of the strictest inspection laws because of the cars usage over there. All good but if their oil was only a blend they would be open for all types of lawsuits. After an oil change send a sample to Blackstone industries for analysis. Will give you piece of mind

ron3.7

Yes 4 1/2 qts I change my own oil all the time but why a mobil filter?? whats so special about that filter from other filters I thought WIX was a good brand no

jim_c

Not to be argumentative!
Can't we all try to get along?


1. I have driven in Germany too. Great fun.
I agree you will see many cars doing a consistent 160 km/hr - I doubt you will see many at 160 miles per hr (257 km/hr) (?)


2. I don't agree with always following the MID. I will always change the oil sooner than the MID suggests. The benefit is my engine has better quality oil for much of its life. The cost is minimal.


3. No one has answered the very good question above: Synthetic oil is supposed to last much longer and function better. But the MID does not know you have installed synthetic and bases its calculation on assuming you have regular oil. So the MID is making a premature indication. Is that true or not?


4. I am only interested in #3. from an academic perspective. I'm still going to change the oil early, even if it's synthetic.

mylove4cars

WIX is Ok - Mobil 1 is superior I believe, here is why.

Most conventional oil filters use a filter medium that is made of cellulose – typically wood fiber – and polyester fibers.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filters combines a mixture of synthetic micro fibers and natural fibers. The synthetic components of Mobil 1 motor oil are chemically synthesized liquids.

The synthetic fibers in Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filters yield the following key benefits:

A much more efficient filter, removing more particles per pass through the filter than conventional filter media.

Less resistance to oil flow, reducing the potential for the filter to restrict the flow of oil to your engine.

A larger surface area to trap more contaminant particles, allowing the longer service intervals.

The WIX has less filtering media than the M1 and does not use synthetic media.

mylove4cars

I mentioned this before:

“You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The whole debate about exactly when you change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 10,000 miles or so. Your mate with a classic car tells you every 3,000 miles. Ole' Bob with the bad breath who drives a truck tells you he's never once changed the oil in his ve-hickle. Fact is, large quantities of water are produced by the normal combustion process and, depending on engine wear, and some of it gets into the crank case. If you have a good crank case breathing system it gets removed from there PDFQ, but even so, in cold weather a lot of condensation will take place. This is bad enough in itself, since water is not noted for its lubrication qualities in an engine, but even worse, that water dissolves any nitrates formed during the combustion process. If my memory of chemistry serves me right, that leaves you with a mixture of Nitric (HNO3) and Nitrous (HNO2) acid circulating round your engine! So not only do you suffer a high rate of wear at start-up and when the engine is cold, you suffer a high rate of subsequent corrosion during normal running or even when stationary.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:

1.Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)

2.Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)

3.Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)

4.State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)

5.Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)

6.Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)

If you were clever (or anal) enough, you could probably come up with a really clever formula incorporating all those factors. However, I would give 1, 2, and 3 equal top weighting. Items 1 to 3 have to be taken together since a given number of "cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January. The effect in either case will be modified by how much gas gets past the pistons. What we are really after is the severity and duration of the initial condensation period. All other things being equal that will give you how much condensate will be produced and I would suggest that more than anything else determines when the oil should be dumped.”

Btw. Quite some cars drive 160 Mph and up over there.

dirtyo2000

MID works off of time the vehicle is actually in gear. So once the car is placed in gear it starts the count down. It doesn't take into consideration idle time. You can gage it by doing oil analysis. Just change at 10% and send off. If they tell you life is left then stick with that. If they say oil is past is use life then change sooner or switch oil

ron3.7

Going to use oil and filter thank you mobil oil mobil filter

ron3.7

I'M GOING TO GET MOBIL 1 EXTENDED LIFE 5 QT JUG OVER AT WALMART AND A MOBIL 1 OIL FILTER M1-110 DOWN THE STEET AT AUTOZONE I WILL SET MY OIL REMINDER AT 100% AND SEE IF I NOTICE A DIFFERENCE AT ALL OR WHEN I GET DOWN TO ABOUT 15% TO 10% I WILL ALSO BE CHECKING THE DIPSTICK AND OIL IN THE MEANTIME ABOUT EVERY 500 MILES OR SO.I CHANGE MY OWN OIL SO I WILL WRITE DOWN THE DATE AND THE EXACT MILAGE AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS AND HOW I LIKE IT. YOUR COMMENTS ARE WELL APPRECIATED

ron3.7

I OWN A 2013 ACURA TL SH AWD 3.7

Jackieee_TL

scotty2hotty

iTrader: (1)

This thread.

smh

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

butt butt, I already explained to you what would happen.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

ITS ALSO IN YOUR USER MANUAL, doofus.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

hey, why wouldnt it count idle time?

is the engine not spinning during idle?
for the advanced, at idle how fast is the engine spinning?

so, you see....it HAS to account for idle.
as there is still oil pumping.

it takes in account of RPM, or revolutions per minute. yes, this includes at idle

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you are correct.
the MID does NOT know what oil you have.
there are no sensors to tell it if its a synthetic or conventional.

on the 2G and 3G TL's, we've seen Oil intervals of 15k with synthetic oil.
A synthetic oil is classified as a Group IV or Group V. which most M1 not meeting these classifications.
their 0w-40 is classified as a Group IV tho.
their 0w-40 has a HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) rate of 3.8 or 3.9%
you want an oil with a high shear rate.
so, it doesnt shear.
unfortunately, the extended performance oils are made to shear. with a low HTHS rate of 2.8%

I am running a redline 5w-30 with A HIGH SHEAR RATE of 4%

yes, I can run extended intervals. 10k miles to 15k miles, however the oil filter will not last that long. I run the sk2 oil filter. the M1-110

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

for the general consumers, the normal m1 stuff is fine.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

from http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...rformance.aspx

check out the shear rate

I guess this constitutes as proof, Mylove4cars.
I can also dig up other sheets and facts, give me a sec.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

0w-40!
i've ran this oil a few times.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

LOL at this thread.

Mods should merge it with the other one...

fsttyms1

Merged.

fsttyms1

Also, please dont use ALL CAPS. It signifies yelling.


As for the oil, why would you check it every 500 miles? What are you expecting to see as for a difference? The MID doesnt have the capability to know how the oil is doing. Looking at the color does nothing and doesnt give you an indication of how its doing. If you really want to know how its doing, Get a sample kit from Blackstone labs. Then when you change your oil get a clean sample of your oil as its draining out and send it to them. They will test it and tell you how the oil is doing.