Leather quality of the seats
 

The leather of my 4G's left rear seat directly under the headrest is wrinkled like this:
http://i41.tinypic.com/311uw53.jpghttp://i40.tinypic.com/2z6599f.jpg
It is the only section of leather in the entire interior that looks like that and it is an eyesore. :yuck:

The rest of the leather inside the car looks smooth like this:
http://i42.tinypic.com/9h3s4i.jpg

Does anyone else have something similar?

Is that wrinkled section something that can be fixed under warranty? or will the dealer give me hell about it?

that doesn't look right for a new car...back to the dealer.

The left thigh bolster of my driver's seat is pretty wrinkled. Cheap leather?

Same color and similar problem except my wrinkles are on the bottom of the seat towards the doors. It looks as if there is too much leather?

Cheap leather? x2

This.

If I use my hands to stretch out that section of leather to make it tighter, the wrinkles appear to be minimized...

My baseball glove used to wrinkle over time too. Damn defects!

me too, and the leather on the door under the window is already discolored and creased and has a little 'dent' in it

this colour was my first pick but the leather quality totally dissapointed me when I saw the same thing along with some excess leather in the end where the buckle was bunching up. So I quickly changed to black on black. Let me know if the dealer does any thing for you. But I'll certainly look forward to see thoes wrinkles in about a year of use as i had the 08 tl black on black that started to look like this any way. Good luck

The 4G leather is way better then my 3G. Had an 04 TL and I think with in the first year my wife and I were commenting on how badly the leather held up. Lots of wrinkles on the driver side. And we are very good and using the leather conditioner on a regular bases.

Hope my 4G holds up better, but would not be surprised if it didn't. I am under the impression that most leather will start to do that in an area that gets a lot of use, such as the drivers seat.

sad to see that the 4G is starting to be plagued with the same minor issues as the 2G & 3G. Bet the sunroof rattles too ... as that problem has been around since 1998

At least the brake issue was resolved (at least in the AWD) from the 2Gs.

:ugh:

That is how you can tell they are using real leather, and not some fake stuff. The leather looks different because it came from different parts of the animal. The really smooth stuff comes from the sides and backs of the cow. The wrinkled stuff comes from the legs and any other joints on the animal.

If you don't like it complain, but be prepared for the dealer to tell you that is expected with it being real leather.

you need to use leather conditioner to keep it in good shape.

It is leather and not vinyl or fabric. It is not machine made and therefore not perfect. If you want to pay for a higher quality piece or leather then the car will cost a lot more.

its leather what do you expect....look at a pair of leather shoes...after you start using it, it starts to break in and its going to start looking like its used since its not new anymore....i cant believe how much complaining i have seen on this and the 3g board about leather wear....

I don't think he was complaining about this being worn like this. I think it came from the factory like this. But this is normal for leather. Not all leather is equal, because it is not hand made and it is a natural material.

If that is the case, I would talk to the stealership to getting this resolved, asap.

I work for an Acura Service dept. and see this all the time. If it's not the seat leather wrinkling up (wearing) it's the dye in peoples pants/clothes wearing off onto the lighter color leather in the seats.
I will replace it ONE time to make someone happy, but after that cannot replace it anymore. All leather will wrinkle especially if it is in a high traffic area, for example the driver's seat left leg bolster wears more than any other area.

It came from the factory like that. Car is only 2 months old and I typically ride with no one in the rear seats.

Those wrinkles are nto bad, still I would try and get them repalced. What used to annoy me in the 3G is my leather would crease and old on itslef as if it were too big for the support/padding. The 4G leather is way better and softer so I suspect it iwll wear more unless it is treated. I treat my leather at least once a month if not more. I use leather CPR, fast one step clean and condition it makes the leather look and feel great.

I'm very surprise that HONDA ACURA don't improve their car quickly.

On 2004 TL , there was the famous butt print, for the 2005 they change the seat and put 3 sections instead of 2. That was a good thing.
Now since 2005 and untill 2009 they didn't improve the side. They could have ass more padding, have something stiffer. It's good to have real leather, but the look after few months is terrible

But you've got to admit, these photos show an extreme case for a NEW car. Even the driver seat of my 07 does not look like that.
Note: OP mentioned that the left rear looks worst than any other seat - including, driver. This is most likely not a case of normal wear and tear.

This is true, for a brand new car in a spot that sees no wear you are right. Just used to seeing people complaint about the wrinkles in their leather seats after they have been sliding across the bolsters for years and then decide they don't like it. Until they design a better cow, this will continue.

Funny people here complaining about leather. I'm not sure how the 07+ G is holding up, but Infiniti leather was way worse for wear than Acura. I'll take creases and wrinkles over big cracks. Int he end if you want your leather to hold up you need to treat it. It will help, but will NOT prevent the issues. Conditioned leather with respond better to the stresses of wear and tear. Also rubbing as you are conditioning it helps even out and remove some of the worst wrinkles. Funny how so many will wash their car yet never take car of the seats, the seats take a worse beating than the extrerior!

I had a snag in my old 3G back seat, and a professional told me it wasn't real leather, a hybrid of some sort. I didn't believe him until he showed me real quality leather in his garage. I trust this guy as he has a company that goes around fixing leather seats for dealerships across southern california, but my point is those leather seats looked awful compared to my old TL! I'm starting to see some wear on my seats but ebony is really hiding quite a bit, you have to look really close, but the pumpkin color seat really stand out! Dang.

Would it be better to go to the service department at the dealership where I purchased from or it doesn't matter?

Got Lexol?

I was a Lexol guy for years and switched to Leather CPR and have not turned back.

:thumbsup:

Will try it.

in the end its really hard to condition leather that is sealed in vinyl....our leather is not really able to be conditioned like you would think, nothing is going to be absorbed by the leather due to it being sealed in vinyl....

as for having it replaced, if you do have it replaced by the dealer, you will risk having them mess something else up....

This is true, stealership will usually do collateral damage and then you will feel even worse. Once they start ripping things apart, popping out clips and other plastic bits and pieces that are known to be low quality plastic on any Honda, your car will look preatty messy.
Unfortunately Honda is very well know for its crappy trim.

Interesting, I'll have to try Leather CPR, too.

I see it's available at Restoration Hardware stores and on their web site:

http://www.restorationhardware.com/r...navAction=jump

I would sincerely be interested in any documentation you have to back this up. I am under the impression that the leather is .... um .... leather.

Leather used in Automobiles:

There are three main types: (a) Natural (Uncovered) (b) Covered and (c) Unfinished (Nubuck);

Before using a leather care product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before deciding on what products to use you need to ascertain what type of leather finish you have and wither the leather has a polyurethane covering, or is (un-coated) natural leather, as the cleaning / maintenance varies as to type; although they all require a water-based product to re-hydrate, a suede type leather like Nubuck is the exception.

Automobiles manufacturers have blurred the distinguishing lines on what exactly leather is; real leather is the top split of the hide, there are many so called ‘leathers’ that are actually the bottom (suede) of the hide. This is a new development in using split leather. It is produced from the lower split of the hide by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane or vinyl coating, they are being sold by automobile manufacturers as ‘genuine leather’

Leather is hygroscopic (naturally absorbs and retains water), meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. The denaturing process of leather tanning removes moisture from the hide, introducing solvent-based products accelerates aging of the leather; water-based products restore the lost moisture of natural leather and maintain its natural flexibility.

Automobile leather is either vat-dyed or a spray-on dye is used.
a) Vat-dyed colour is obtained by immersing the hide in dye, ensuring that the dye permeates through the hide.

b) With spray-on the dye is painted on the surface of the hide, it produces an even colour but the natural grain and looks of the hide is hidden as well as the hide's longevity being compromised. This is also the least expensive way of applying a leather dye (used mainly by both American and Japanese car manufactures) European vehicles are usually upholstered with vat-dyed leather.

All cowhides are naturally oily, unfortunately, these natural oils are stripped away in the tanning process (tanning is the process using chromium salts to preserve hides and prepare them to absorb dyes) and some equivalent oils must be re-introduced after tanning. This last tanning step, the replacement of oils, is called "fat liquoring."

Over the centuries, a number of oils have been found that have a natural affinity for leather fibres. Every leather tanner has his own, unique, blend of tanning oils. These formulas are closely held secrets, passed down through the generations. This is one reason why one company's leather can have a totally different feel, fragrance, texture and softness from another company's product.

Prevention is better than correction - Leather that has become cracked from inadequate or inappropriate care usually cannot be restored to its original state by most available products / methods. It is highly recommended that you fully clean and protect auto interiors leather upholstery surfaces 3-4 times per year. It is much easier to practice prevention than it is to correct major problems after the fact

Identifying characteristics- classified in accordance to their cleaning codes and labels into these basic categories: (Before undertaking any cleaning or stain removal remedies it is essential to identify the type of leather involved);

(NL) Natural leather: has a random shade colours and grain pattern; it will scratch easily; water drops will darken its colour (temporarily)

(A)-Aniline / non-coated: These leathers are colored with transparent dyes which enable you to see the actual grain and markings. The most common process is to spray a wax finish on their surface which only gives short term water repellence.

To determine if your leather is unprotected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter color, or if leather conditioners or water darken the hide.

(P)-Protected / Coated: This type of leather is also known as coated / covered / or painted. These leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance. The heavier pigments can create much darker colours. Protected leather has a substantial finish applied that makes the leather more resistant to heavy wear and stains. The heavier pigments and finish do affect the softness and scent, so these leathers often don't feel or smell like real leather.

To determine if your leather is protected, lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface. Liquids will not penetrate protected leather.

These leathers will also have sheen or even shine. It's like looking at wood with a lacquer finish opposed to a wipe-on oil finish. These leathers are more common in the automotive industry.

(N)-Nubuck / Suede: Sometimes called distressed or suede, this type of leather is actually an un-protected finish that has been brushed. Many confuse this finish with suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of the hide, while Nubuck is an effect created on the grain side, making it incredibly soft. This brushing also makes it more absorbent than regular Aniline leathers.

Nubuck leather will have a texture similar to velvet. If you move your hand across the surface, the nap will change appearance similar to vacuuming carpet. Liquids will darken this type of leather, it has a uniform colour and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops will not change its colour.


Information source: Leather Masters

Interesting. From Acura'ssite:
From Wiki describing Full-Grain Leathers:
From the same article describing leathers with polyurethane:
These seem to be contradictory to the claim (here) that Bycast of some form is used. Obviously more research is needed.

Note that the Acura site says "Seating Sufaces". IIRC, in the 2G and/or 3G that was pretty literal - only the parts you sat against were leather. Typically, I think, the perforated sections only.

No not just the perforated sections. Leather was on the top surfaces but not the sides. The smooth sections adjacent to the perforated sections is leather on all TLs since 1996. On 2G and 3G the center section of the rear seat (under the armrest, if down) was pleather as were the door inserts.

Can't beat it for leather cleaning and protection...Zaino...

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=13

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=14

Interesting, both my 3G and now my 4G really suck up the conditioner when I put it on and I feel it restores the color a bit too. Hell even the leather (as cheap as it feels) in the gf's CRV seems to soak up the conditioner although a bit slower. Her leather it is easy to over ocndition and have it build up on the surface, but I have put 2 or 3 layers on my 4G and it sucks it up.

believe me, it isnt soaking anything up...to prove it, place a drop of water on your seat, if it soaks in they ok, but it will not, it will sit there until you wipe it up....