How is the 4th Generation TL holding up?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 269
Likes: 60
From: South Florida
How is the 4th Generation TL holding up?
I was curious to know how are cars are holding up! I would like an update of how many miles are on your cars and what major problems you have had so far. Mods and normal wear and tear don't count!
I'll go first:
2010, 28,000 Miles
No Problems, just a premature battery failure.
I'll go first:
2010, 28,000 Miles
No Problems, just a premature battery failure.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 979
From: The west side of the Potomac River
OEM batteries...
i'm sure the heat in FL didnt' help it's life out either. i fyou replaced with OEM...expect the battery to go in about the same time the first one did.
i'm sure the heat in FL didnt' help it's life out either. i fyou replaced with OEM...expect the battery to go in about the same time the first one did.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 124
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles
Having just taken ownership of a 12TL I'm afraid to ask: how long did it take your OEM battery to die?
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 91
From: DC
If and when you battery fails, don't replace with OEM. There are much better batteries out there. My oem battery got replaced under warranty, but I did not ask for a replacement. The dealer checked the battery and I guess it was failing. If the car is not driven much, this is not unusual with today's cars. I have replaced 3 batteries so far in my 2006 Miata. I use a battery tender now.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 979
From: The west side of the Potomac River
#2-dying after 3 yrs and 3 mos., replaced with aftermarket ($120)
#3 (currently) interstate megatron plus 24- 85 mos battery...cranks much easier and a lot faster even after my car has sat for a couple of weeks.
some OEM batteries last 5-6 yrs, some a few months...seems the avg is around 3-4 yrs.
so much for the OEM battery lasting 100 mos.
sometimes they go without warning, other times you get slow cranking, or dash light flickering, or weird electrical gremlins that come out of no where. people replaced the battery and you have a happy car again.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 124
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles
#1-dying after 3 yrs, replaced under warranty ($0)
#2-dying after 3 yrs and 3 mos., replaced with aftermarket ($120)
#3 (currently) interstate megatron plus 24- 85 mos battery...cranks much easier and a lot faster even after my car has sat for a couple of weeks.
some OEM batteries last 5-6 yrs, some a few months...seems the avg is around 3-4 yrs.
so much for the OEM battery lasting 100 mos.
sometimes they go without warning, other times you get slow cranking, or dash light flickering, or weird electrical gremlins that come out of no where. people replaced the battery and you have a happy car again.
#2-dying after 3 yrs and 3 mos., replaced with aftermarket ($120)
#3 (currently) interstate megatron plus 24- 85 mos battery...cranks much easier and a lot faster even after my car has sat for a couple of weeks.
some OEM batteries last 5-6 yrs, some a few months...seems the avg is around 3-4 yrs.
so much for the OEM battery lasting 100 mos.
sometimes they go without warning, other times you get slow cranking, or dash light flickering, or weird electrical gremlins that come out of no where. people replaced the battery and you have a happy car again.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 124
Likes: 12
From: Los Angeles
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,334
Likes: 218
From: Indiana
On the drivers side, the plastic housing that attaches to the door was improperly moulded (rough, bumpy leading edge). The passender side mirror was loose and caused a slight rattle when you close the door. Both replaced under warranty.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 191
Likes: 9
From: St. Louis, MO USA
I've owned my 2012 about a year and 3 months now, almost 25,000 miles (yikes), and no problems so far. I'm impressed with how few squeaks/rattles, considering this is a stiff suspension car with 19" low profile tires.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 84
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, Ontario
2010 6MT ASPEC - 26,000 Kms. New battery under warranty already (2 winters and 2 summers). Wheel caps corroded and replaced under warranty, corroded again. Sunroof rattle, disappeared on it's own. Had the parking brake seize in the winter, car wouldn't move, then dragged the brakes for 1/2 Km until it released itself.. I wash the car daily in the winter, likely causing this issue. Slight warp on the rotors, very negligible.
Engine makes a super loud metallic snap/ping noise after the car is shut off. Will do this 3-4 times over 5-10 minutes. Annoying as hell, they 'updated the software' as a fix.. Morons.. no change. Had one instance where the car would crank, but not start. never did it again.
Otherwise the car is awesome to drive, and the minor things are.. . well . minor..
Engine makes a super loud metallic snap/ping noise after the car is shut off. Will do this 3-4 times over 5-10 minutes. Annoying as hell, they 'updated the software' as a fix.. Morons.. no change. Had one instance where the car would crank, but not start. never did it again.
Otherwise the car is awesome to drive, and the minor things are.. . well . minor..
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 206
Likes: 21
('12 Advance)
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,995
Likes: 148
From: San Antonio, TX
Our 2009:
1) Sun Visors not staying up against the roof (replaced)
2) Both front seat rails were moving when driving, you could feel the seat move when braking. (replaced)
3) Seat memory stopped working after the rails were replaced, going back in 2 weeks to get that fixed.
4) One blown strut
5) Now brake pedal extremely hard to press when it sits for a few hours so it's hard to start the car. (Also being checked in a few weeks)
6) Battery just died about 5 months ago. Original OEM. Now has a duralast gold, and it starts much faster.
That's it. Otherwise been a solid car. It was a loaner that we bought with 15k on it. It now has 36k.
The 2012:
No issues at all. It also feels more SOLID feeling, more sound deadning, and quieter. Much better built to me vs our 09.
1) Sun Visors not staying up against the roof (replaced)
2) Both front seat rails were moving when driving, you could feel the seat move when braking. (replaced)
3) Seat memory stopped working after the rails were replaced, going back in 2 weeks to get that fixed.
4) One blown strut
5) Now brake pedal extremely hard to press when it sits for a few hours so it's hard to start the car. (Also being checked in a few weeks)
6) Battery just died about 5 months ago. Original OEM. Now has a duralast gold, and it starts much faster.
That's it. Otherwise been a solid car. It was a loaner that we bought with 15k on it. It now has 36k.
The 2012:
No issues at all. It also feels more SOLID feeling, more sound deadning, and quieter. Much better built to me vs our 09.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
1 month old with 1200 miles. Weird issue of squeaking/screeching noise when I rotate the navigation control. It only happens when the car has been sitting in the sun and goes away after it cools down on the inside. Also it only happens if I rotate it really quickly. Weird issue though. It rubs on the inside causing the noise.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
2012 Tech
1) Sunroof refuses to close sometimes!
2) Steering wheel rattle while on the highway.
3) Tunklight didnt work ... warrenty had to replace the whole driver side fuse box.
Only 7k miles.
I miss my 2009 honda accord coupe!
1) Sunroof refuses to close sometimes!
2) Steering wheel rattle while on the highway.
3) Tunklight didnt work ... warrenty had to replace the whole driver side fuse box.
Only 7k miles.
I miss my 2009 honda accord coupe!
Suzuka Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,386
Likes: 84
2012 shawd tech, 5000 miles ... no issues so far except a seat creak that was fixed by my dealer without any problems in terms of damaging other parts of the car, although i did have to make a few trips back
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,490
Likes: 325
Did your dealer fix the sunroof rattle for you? I have a 2012 and it has the same issue and I'm going to bring it to the dealers attention next time I'm in.
2010 TL AWD 6MT: New King
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 165
From: WA
2010 TL SH-AWD 6MT, closing in on 40,000 miles.
I've had the following issues:
1) Rear head rests replaced due to pop out (warranty replacement)
2) Creaking coming from A, B pillars when going up hill (unresolved)
3) Sunroof when open, doesn't always close and will re-open, occurs occasionally when the temp is hot (unresolved)
4) 3rd gear pop out (after 3 years of constantly complaining to the stealership, I finally was able to get the dealership to replace the 3rd gear set); clutch assembly also replaced (warrant fix). The 3rd gear pop out is gone, but I'm hearing an odd noise coming from the clutch when starting out in 1st and R.
5) Unresolved "diesel clunking noise" when car is warmed and going up hill
6) Now I'm starting to wonder if my speakers are shot; for some reason the ELS system in the RDX loaners I had sound a lot better than my TL's. So far though, it's just an inconclusive hunch...
I've had the following issues:
1) Rear head rests replaced due to pop out (warranty replacement)
2) Creaking coming from A, B pillars when going up hill (unresolved)
3) Sunroof when open, doesn't always close and will re-open, occurs occasionally when the temp is hot (unresolved)
4) 3rd gear pop out (after 3 years of constantly complaining to the stealership, I finally was able to get the dealership to replace the 3rd gear set); clutch assembly also replaced (warrant fix). The 3rd gear pop out is gone, but I'm hearing an odd noise coming from the clutch when starting out in 1st and R.
5) Unresolved "diesel clunking noise" when car is warmed and going up hill
6) Now I'm starting to wonder if my speakers are shot; for some reason the ELS system in the RDX loaners I had sound a lot better than my TL's. So far though, it's just an inconclusive hunch...
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 5
From: Ohio
Well this gives me a little hope: 3 years is better than a lot of the times reported above which were significantly shorter. I wouldn't expect it to last 100 months (would love it though). Not sure if for 2012 they fixed any of the "gremlins" or battery life issues that earlier 4G versions are experiencing, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. But if my battery does die early I'll have them replace it if its still under warranty, but otherwise will go with the best aftermarket solution I can find.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 26
From: Wilmington, DE
2010 TL shawd 6mt approx 29500 miles. crappy mileage despite 75% highway. improved a little since I started using the cruise control
no mech probs (save for the occasional 3rd gear issue). just the front fender is horribly scarred with rock chips. Kind of afraid to go to a body shop to find out how much it will cost to fix or replace.
no mech probs (save for the occasional 3rd gear issue). just the front fender is horribly scarred with rock chips. Kind of afraid to go to a body shop to find out how much it will cost to fix or replace.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,204
Likes: 1,267
I never brought mine in....It is only when it gets very warm which seldom happens where I live and because the dealer is 4h away, I just never bothered took it there for an annoyance per se. Now I spoke to them and they are aware of the TSB and they have fixed one or two with full success so its doable. I have heard that some here have had the skin of their roof damaged by the dealer while attempting to repair....For me, it was just not worth it, especially when I have less than 12 months now left with my TL.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 48
Likes: 9
2010 TL-SHAWD 38,000 miles - Overall I would say its just OK. This is my 3rd TL, previous ones were 2004 w/Tech and 2008 Type-S. On the two previous ones, I did not have a single warranty repair for either.
On the 2010:
1.) around 5K miles - right turn signal malfunction. I had to hold the stalk down so the signal would flash. Dealer replaced the turn signal assembly.
2.) around 15K miles - torque converter noise when going around 25 - 30 mph, dealer reflashed the computer and the noise is mostly gone, I still hear it occasionally. On a side note, I think the reflash just reset the engine speed to keep it out of the RPM zone in which the noise occurred. This has caused a slight drop in fuel economy. I read other posts on this issue that seem to indicate the same conclusion.
3.) 20K miles - drivers door actuator stuck in below freezing temps, dealer replaced. A few times when it was really cold, I had to open the passenger door, then reach across to unlock the drivers door from the inside. I could hear the actuator in the drivers door moving, but the lock wouldnt budge.
4.) 25K and 30K miles - AWD system malfunction, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and car went into front drive only mode with no traction or stability control. 1st time it happened, the dealer replaced a fuse and it was OK for a few months. The second time, the code had cleared by the time I got to the dealer and they couldnt figure it out. Both times, I got back home, turned off the car, and it was OK the next day. Although the codes would be stored for a few days. Not sure what to make of this issue as no one else seems to have it.
So there you go, my reliability grade for this car is "just OK" in that it is unreliable compared to my older TLs, but I still think it is better than the German brands.
On the 2010:
1.) around 5K miles - right turn signal malfunction. I had to hold the stalk down so the signal would flash. Dealer replaced the turn signal assembly.
2.) around 15K miles - torque converter noise when going around 25 - 30 mph, dealer reflashed the computer and the noise is mostly gone, I still hear it occasionally. On a side note, I think the reflash just reset the engine speed to keep it out of the RPM zone in which the noise occurred. This has caused a slight drop in fuel economy. I read other posts on this issue that seem to indicate the same conclusion.
3.) 20K miles - drivers door actuator stuck in below freezing temps, dealer replaced. A few times when it was really cold, I had to open the passenger door, then reach across to unlock the drivers door from the inside. I could hear the actuator in the drivers door moving, but the lock wouldnt budge.
4.) 25K and 30K miles - AWD system malfunction, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and car went into front drive only mode with no traction or stability control. 1st time it happened, the dealer replaced a fuse and it was OK for a few months. The second time, the code had cleared by the time I got to the dealer and they couldnt figure it out. Both times, I got back home, turned off the car, and it was OK the next day. Although the codes would be stored for a few days. Not sure what to make of this issue as no one else seems to have it.
So there you go, my reliability grade for this car is "just OK" in that it is unreliable compared to my older TLs, but I still think it is better than the German brands.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,637
Likes: 118
From: Ontario, Canada
2010 TL-SHAWD 38,000 miles - Overall I would say its just OK. This is my 3rd TL, previous ones were 2004 w/Tech and 2008 Type-S. On the two previous ones, I did not have a single warranty repair for either.
On the 2010:
1.) around 5K miles - right turn signal malfunction. I had to hold the stalk down so the signal would flash. Dealer replaced the turn signal assembly.
2.) around 15K miles - torque converter noise when going around 25 - 30 mph, dealer reflashed the computer and the noise is mostly gone, I still hear it occasionally. On a side note, I think the reflash just reset the engine speed to keep it out of the RPM zone in which the noise occurred. This has caused a slight drop in fuel economy. I read other posts on this issue that seem to indicate the same conclusion.
3.) 20K miles - drivers door actuator stuck in below freezing temps, dealer replaced. A few times when it was really cold, I had to open the passenger door, then reach across to unlock the drivers door from the inside. I could hear the actuator in the drivers door moving, but the lock wouldnt budge.
4.) 25K and 30K miles - AWD system malfunction, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and car went into front drive only mode with no traction or stability control. 1st time it happened, the dealer replaced a fuse and it was OK for a few months. The second time, the code had cleared by the time I got to the dealer and they couldnt figure it out. Both times, I got back home, turned off the car, and it was OK the next day. Although the codes would be stored for a few days. Not sure what to make of this issue as no one else seems to have it.
So there you go, my reliability grade for this car is "just OK" in that it is unreliable compared to my older TLs, but I still think it is better than the German brands.
On the 2010:
1.) around 5K miles - right turn signal malfunction. I had to hold the stalk down so the signal would flash. Dealer replaced the turn signal assembly.
2.) around 15K miles - torque converter noise when going around 25 - 30 mph, dealer reflashed the computer and the noise is mostly gone, I still hear it occasionally. On a side note, I think the reflash just reset the engine speed to keep it out of the RPM zone in which the noise occurred. This has caused a slight drop in fuel economy. I read other posts on this issue that seem to indicate the same conclusion.
3.) 20K miles - drivers door actuator stuck in below freezing temps, dealer replaced. A few times when it was really cold, I had to open the passenger door, then reach across to unlock the drivers door from the inside. I could hear the actuator in the drivers door moving, but the lock wouldnt budge.
4.) 25K and 30K miles - AWD system malfunction, dash lit up like a Christmas tree and car went into front drive only mode with no traction or stability control. 1st time it happened, the dealer replaced a fuse and it was OK for a few months. The second time, the code had cleared by the time I got to the dealer and they couldnt figure it out. Both times, I got back home, turned off the car, and it was OK the next day. Although the codes would be stored for a few days. Not sure what to make of this issue as no one else seems to have it.
So there you go, my reliability grade for this car is "just OK" in that it is unreliable compared to my older TLs, but I still think it is better than the German brands.
