I hope someone out there can help. I have a 2012 TL Tech that I bought used with 36K miles. It has a continuous hesitation on acceleration that is extremely annoying. Under normal acceleration you can feel it throughout lower gear change at approximately 1500 rpms. I brought it back to the dealer where they stated it is an obvious hesitation but is "normal". I test drove other TL's without the hesitation so Im not sure what they are talking about. They did a tranny software update but nothing has changed. I want to go back to the dealer but want to arm myself with knowlege before I go.

Can anyone help?

 

"That's normal" is dealer speak for "We have no idea what the problem is." Take it to another shop.

 

There are service techs in the industry who are really good and there are others who are barely capable, just like in any business. My understanding is that they can now read history and performance on your vehicle's computer. They can also access all sorts of diagnostic flowcharts online. Very high tech.
Have you heard about the contests that are sponsored by AC Delco and others, where they have top-rated techs try to fix a car with a problem? They have to diagnose and fix the vehicle while being observed and timed. The guys who win these contests are the really top techs but there aren't many of them. I am fortunate to know one which is how I know a bit about this.
Perhaps you could research this topic and find one of these contest winner techs and take your car to him. (?)
I realize this might be a challenging or impractical effort but if the dealer can't fix your car you need a plan B.

 

I am not really up on all the tech in these new cars but the same analysis should apply as in the old days. For smooth acceleration you need added fuel to go with the added air when you open the throttle. You "step on the gas" so to speak, you give the engine a big shot of air. If the fuel system does not add enough fuel the engine bogs or hesitates. So I would think you need to have at least two things checked out: the mass air flow sensor, and the fuel injector(s). Should be simple work for a qualified tech.

I know how frustrating it is, that's why I'm trying to help even though I'm just guessin.

 

Huh?^^

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean completely but if you are talking that under normal driving the car shifts into 2 gear early and feels a little gutless then that is normal. I read somewhere on here that it has to due with the 6 speed tranny and better gas mileage. Try using sport mode and see if that feels better. I noticed that 1st gear holds longer and shifts into 2nd with a better feel. If by hesitation you mean it's spuddering while accelerating then there is a problem but im sure the dealer would have address that when you took it back.

 

I am going to suggest something that I might get shot down for:

Have you ever disconnected your battery since you bought the car? It is possible that the car's computer is still set up for the previous owner. Disconnect the battery to reset the computer, then drive the car. It should learn your driving style, foot force on the gas pedal, etc.

There was about 130 miles on my car when I bought my '12, and just didn't feel right. Hesitated and shifted funny. I did the disconnect and the car just felt more natural and responsive to me after a few miles.

 

Same problem on my 2012 TL at 36k miles which I just bought about 2,000 miles ago. Dealer performed a software update to the transmission which reduced the shudder/judder, but did not eliminated the problem. I returned to the dealer where they then suggested I drive it until the next oil change interval to allow the transmission to "learn" my driving style. They had provided me with a loaner which they said would demonstrate similar issues. It did not. I'll be going back in a couple of weeks to have another run at getting it fixed.

 

This is confusing. It sounded to me like the first poster was talking about a "driveability" issue which means an engine problem. If the engine is running rough or the air/fuel mixture is not appropriate (e.g.) so you get a hesitation, the car will not accelerate smoothly. Now another poster is talking about transmission/torque converter issues (juddering) It's not necessarily easy to distinguish engine problems from transmission problems but you need to try to decide where to look.
Your dealership should be able to figure this out but you need to give them the best possible description of the problem.

 

I'm thinking the OP needs to ask to have the shift point software reset.

I had some problems with jerking during rolling stops and hesitation when accelerating from a slow speed after the transmission software update. The second dealer I went to and Acura factory rep both recommended the shift point software be reset, they said its a separate program they have to run as its remembered when the transmission is flasher or battery disconnected. They said after it's reset, it spends about 4-6 weeks learning driving style and adapts. They also said once it learns it, it doesn't re-learn if your style changes, so they recommend re-setting it for any new purchaser.

It could have all been a load of BS for all I know, but since my reset I no longer have the hesitation or the jerkyness at all and its been quite a few months. I still have the transmission jutter, but that's a story for another thread.

 

(?) That sounds like the boot up process for my last PC. lol

No offense, but does that sound right to you?

 

Lol. Part of me thinks its BS, but I have heard it from quite a few dealers about quite a few different cars with automatic transitions. Not just Acura. This came from the mouth of the factory rep, and it did change drastically after the reset. I just wish they would quote it in miles driven, not weeks.

 

Mine does the same thing... what did the dealer charge for the reset?

 

On mine they charged nothing, but I am still under warranty.

 

2012 Great car, but at 30k I have a bucking at 1500 rpm, and a surge on the rpm gauge while driving 65-70 rpm's. Dealer is aware of this problem but has no answers. they did try changing the fuel pump but no luck... Now they will not return my call.. Anyone have this problem corrected?

 

Have the same issue, check transmission fluid. I found mine was leaking. True story.

Also, the A1 service...I don't remember exactly when it is due, but check your coils and sparks. That's always a simple fix to rule out options and errors.

 

Take a look at the thread on torque converter issues. Sounds like you need one. They extended the warranty to over 100000 on this.

 

I wanted to give an update on the TL with hesitation. The second Acura dealership stated it is a bad Torque Converter and that this has been a common problem with the 2012s. I will get it back at the end of the week with a new converter and hopefully will be able to report success!

 

SAKozicki.....They said the exact same thing to me....while I waited for the next oil change the hesitation worsened. Finally I gave up and went to another dealer. They are changing the torque converter as we speak. Said it is a common issue with the 2012 TLs

 

My 2012 is at the dealer now to getting a TC, Should have it bad in a day.

 

Mine 2012 is doing the same thing .. dealer sat and tried to explain to me that he knew of no issues with the 4th gen TL trannies and that mine was an electronically controlled transmission and the computer tried to find the best gear for the driving dynamics. Let's just say that I forwarded him the Acura letter on the torque converter issue and suggested he read it very carefully.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by DivinDude

Let's just say that I forwarded him the Acura letter on the torque converter issue and suggested he read it very carefully.

I did not get any letter from Acura re:TC for my 2012. Did you get your letter recently?

 

I did not get a letter but found it on nhtsa website for 09-11

 

Any1 solved tht hesitation problem ?

 

I have a 2012 TL w/Tech Pkg, with 40k miles and I've experienced this problem for the last 15k miles. My dealer gave me the same responses as others have indicated.
Has anyone discovered the solution? For those folks who had their torque converter replaced, did that solve the problem?

Thanks.