furnac3

I get this noise when I rev up rpms. Is this a valve knock?

130k miles 3.7l AWD

dvd2012tl

This does sound like my 2012 sounded when the cam lobe failure started, then got worse. I first removed the valve covers and checked to see if any valves were out of spec. None were. With the rocker arm assembly installed, you can't see all the cam lobes. This has to be removed for a thorough inspection. There are specific instructions on how to remove this assembly so you don't over-stress and break the rocker arm assembly due to the spring pressure of the valves that will be open or partially open during removal. This guidance is in the tech manual. Once the rocker arm assembly is removed, you can inspect all the cam lobes for pitting. Any cam with pitting needs to be replaced and the associated rocker arm for that cam lobe, will need to be replaced. IMO, if you can wrench good enough to adjust valves and replace the timing belt on these cars, then you can do this job with the tech manual guidance.

WDPanda

That sounds exactly like mine. Just changed out the rear camshaft and it had pitting/wear on the non vtec exhaust cam lobe on the 1st cylinder. Moderate difficulty DIY. I bought the camshaft from Acura for $700-$800 + tax. The rocker arm on that lobe was damaged too and I had a spare rocker bridge I took the rocker arms from. The arms are interchangable between front and back heads and between each cylinder. Mechanics don't want to do this kind of job - involves timing belt related service time, valve adjustment, rebond the rocker arm shaft holder, complete top end removal and drain/fill/bleed coolant because the smaller coolant hose to the heater core is in the way of the rear camshaft removal. Be careful to check fuel injector connections as #1 unclipped itself and I had a misfire but luckily was able to clip it back without removing intake because it was accessible through the side with pliers + flat screwdriver.

RDX_P_ECT

How's it going guys. What do you suppose this job would cost to get done outside of a dealer? Very similar sound is starting with mine when I accelerate. I bought this car in january from a kid that obviously neglected this car, and f**k its feeling like a mistake. I did the timing service, brakes all around, full suspenion replacement, new tires and refurbed wheels. And now this sh*t starts. SO... Im at wits end. Do I fix it or sell it as a loss at this point? I'm into it for 14k at this point and a trade in at a dealer is probably 4500-5000 (before the noise started). Cant even stomach that loss right now.

g3nis

I'm in exactly the same position now. Fixed timing, rod bearings, etc, and ticking continues. Had it for about 1 year and in about $14k as well. I will probably have to take a loss as well since it would be around $900 in parts and labor about 1,500-2,000 unless you can find a reliable mechanic. I recently moved to Cleveland (from NJ), so I don't know anyone here yet.

Bonz

Didn't listen to the video, but mine sounded like a loose valve tick. Once it reached a certain noise level it stayed there. When the local independent import mechanic pulled the valve cover, it was obvious, the lobes were totally worn on one cam.

Between the parts and labor I think it was 2500 bucks. But worth it since the car is paid for and considering what a car payment would cost even over just six months if I bought something new.

WDPanda

It's definitely repairable, whether yourself or mechanic. Easiar than changing out a clutch or transmission. The longer you wait, the more metal particles will start circulating through the oil. It does drain straight down to the oil pan from heads and gets filtered but there's a chance some sand like metal flakes will circulate the longer you drive like that.