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I ordered a timing belt kit off eBay and everything appears to be genuine with the exception of the water pump. It came in a box with a Honda label but there are no marking whatsoever on the pump. Other images I've seen online have "Honda" or at least some other markings cast in the aluminum. Is this a knockoff?
Yes, it was $179, which sounded way too good to be true. I added up all the parts from the dealer and it came to $696, which is outrageous to me. You think even the tensioner, pulleys, and belts are fake too? The bearing seals say "Koyo" and "Japan" but I don't see anything on the tensioner. I don't want to open anything since then I won't be able to return them.
Here's the listing. Surprisingly only one other buyer complained about the water pump being fake.
Shopped around and the best I could find for everything was $590. Added a thermostat too for the hell of it, so that put my order over $600. Ordered from Honda since their prices are a little lower than Acura. Politely requested a refund from the eBay seller, even though I wanted to be an ass.
$590 isn't bad for parts that last reliability and consistently over 100K miles.
Considering that the parts that will fail almost immediately are $180.
Delta is only $410.
I shop BKHONDAPARTS.COM or Curryacuraparts.com or Hondaautomotiveparts.com
I bought the
t belt
water pump
front main seal
cam seals
tensioner and pulley bolts
tensioner arm
hydraulic tensioner
idler pulley
coolant
I think I paid like 650? or something?
Yeah, it's definitely worth it. I'm not worried about it. Just a little pissed that I was going to install this crap on my car and almost paid someone over $800 to install these parts. I already shipped them back for a refund and will be leaving negative feedback once my refund has processed. I'm also going to rerun a supposed OEM thermostat that I purchased from another seller that was only $17 and also has no markings on it whatsoever. It's in a baggie with Honda label that looks pretty legit, but at this point I don't trust anything that doesn't come from the dealer.
That happened to me for temp sensor and switch for my old civic. Noticed when they came in the font on the sticker was "squished". Neither one worked. I requested a return and they just refunded me back and didn't want the parts back.
I questioned the authenticity of the other parts as well, especially after seeing the prices listed on the dealers website. The seller agreed to refund, so no worries. He commented that he would check into it with his "supplier". Yeah, sure buddy.
Honda should put holograms in their labels to help distinguish genuine from fake. I'm sure they are losing millions from people unknowingly buying imitation parts.
I questioned the authenticity of the other parts as well, especially after seeing the prices listed on the dealers website. The seller agreed to refund, so no worries. He commented that he would check into it with his "supplier". Yeah, sure buddy.
Honda should put holograms in their labels to help distinguish genuine from fake. I'm sure they are losing millions from people unknowingly buying imitation parts.
Holograms are simply forged, so you always need to look at the price and quality of metal processing. The belt itself can only be bought from official sellers for no less than $70.
It's always wise to go OEM on timing components. Or at least a reputable brand like Aisin mentioned by others. That's great the seller was willing to give you a refund!
It's always wise to go OEM on timing components. Or at least a reputable brand like Aisin mentioned by others. That's great the seller was willing to give you a refund!
He had no choice 😄.
Kind of a dumb question because I already reinstalled the oil pump, but can someone confirm there are 7 bolts for the oil pump, not 6? The service manual indicates 6, and I nearly only installed 6 until I noticed a seventh bolt sitting on my workbench and was like where the heck did that come from?! 😄
Manual snippet shown below. Maybe the one circled to the left is the seventh? If so, that's a little confusing.
By the way, I decided to measure the clearances on the oil pump rotors and was pleased to find all clearances were on the lowest end of the "new" range.
Another discrepancy I came across is the manual says to apply a 2.3mm bead of Honda bond to the oil pump mounting surface, but the instructions on the back of the packaging say to apply as thin as possible. I decided to follow the manual and got just a tad of squeeze-out, which seems perfect.
...the manual also says to apply HB to the inside edge of the threaded holes, so I did that too. I've never heard anyone mention this in the many YouTube videos I've watched.
Interesting. Yeah, wish this stuff came in a syringe. Wasn't fun squeezing it out using the provided nozzle. Kind of worried about getting the bead on the entire oil pan and installed in under 4 mins.
Kind of a dumb question because I already reinstalled the oil pump, but can someone confirm there are 7 bolts for the oil pump, not 6? The service manual indicates 6, and I nearly only installed 6 until I noticed a seventh bolt sitting on my workbench and was like where the heck did that come from?! 😄
Manual snippet shown below. Maybe the one circled to the left is the seventh? If so, that's a little confusing.
By the way, I decided to measure the clearances on the oil pump rotors and was pleased to find all clearances were on the lowest end of the "new" range.
Another discrepancy I came across is the manual says to apply a 2.3mm bead of Honda bond to the oil pump mounting surface, but the instructions on the back of the packaging say to apply as thin as possible. I decided to follow the manual and got just a tad of squeeze-out, which seems perfect.
The main thing is to put HB around the gasket so that this problem never comes back.
Idk what anyone at Honda is smoking. No human can get the HB on an entire pan AND get it bolted in, in a matter of 5 mins.
You should be fine going over that time unless its extremely hot and dry when you're doing it.
Does the TL have a tightening sequence? S2000's have a 21 bolt tightening sequence.
21 bolts. In sequence. Each one a small amount at a time. So...repeating a 21 bolt sequence 3 times lol.
5 mins...
Therefore, I have been using only Permatex 85084 for 8 years, and there are no problems. I'm very glad that Honda uses RTV instead of gaskets, I've never seen them leak.
Therefore, I have been using only Permatex 85084 for 8 years, and there are no problems. I'm very glad that Honda uses RTV instead of gaskets, I've never seen them leak. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8508...00HBM4K6&psc=1
I doubt the Hondabond was leaking. I've never seen factory Honda Bonded parts leak.
Gaskets are almost always what leak.
First time for everything. I have the pan off and there is evidence of it leaking all around the perimeter of the mating interface with the block. There was oil up inside the torque converter cover and on the heads of the bolts underneath. My oil pump o-ring was not leaking. Only other explanation is someone screwed with the oil pan before I bought the car. The bolts didn't feel like 9 ft-lbs to me. Who knows.
First time for everything. I have the pan off and there is evidence of it leaking all around the perimeter of the mating interface with the block. There was oil up inside the torque converter cover and on the heads of the bolts underneath. My oil pump o-ring was not leaking. Only other explanation is someone screwed with the oil pan before I bought the car. The bolts didn't feel like 9 ft-lbs to me. Who knows.
check out your previous posts, you just couldn't find such a simple leak, and now you're arguing with experience. There is such a thing called aerodynamics, when the oil pump leaks heavily from two sides, then the air will spread the oil around the entire perimeter of the oil pan. I would have believed you if not for the previous posts where you suspected the crankshaft oil seal and asked where the crankshaft sensor was.
check out your previous posts, you just couldn't find such a simple leak, and now you're arguing with experience. There is such a thing called aerodynamics, when the oil pump leaks heavily from two sides, then the air will spread the oil around the entire perimeter of the oil pan. I would have believed you if not for the previous posts where you suspected the crankshaft oil seal and asked where the crankshaft sensor was.
I had never even gotten under the car to take a good look until the other day. I was making assumptions based on several YouTube videos I watched over the last week in preparation for the job that suggested what the likely culprit was. Once I tore into things, I then realized what the actual cause of my leak was--the oil pan. Believe what you want, but I'm right here looking at it and it's very clear. There is oil an inch above the entire oil pan sealing surface and all over below but nothing above that. Also, after removing the pan, you can clearly see oil on at least half the mating surface outside the bead of Honda bond that is remaining towards the transmission end, which is evidence oil was getting past the seal.
I had never even gotten under the car to take a good look until the other day. I was making assumptions based on several YouTube videos I watched over the last week in preparation for the job that suggested what the likely culprit was. Once I tore into things, I then realized what the actual cause of my leak was--the oil pan. Believe what you want, but I'm right here looking at it and it's very clear. There is oil an inch above the entire oil pan sealing surface and all over below but nothing above that.
Are you one of those people who have been fooling people for several years on the forum, but at the same time have not once looked at what exactly is flowing with you? Seriously?
As I wrote before, there is such a thing as aerodynamics and gravity that makes oil around an oil pan, but unfortunately your ignorance will not be able to understand this.
Are you one of those people who have been fooling people for several years on the forum, but at the same time have not once looked at what exactly is flowing with you? Seriously?
As I wrote before, there is such a thing as aerodynamics and gravity that makes oil around an oil pan, but unfortunately your ignorance will not be able to understand this.
Dude, you're out of line. I'm not some f'ing ignorant kid toying with his vehicle. I'm an adult with more talent in my pinky finger than most. All of my assumptions were based on feedback given in forums and what I have observed in videos. I literally only jacked up the car this past Tuesday and tore things apart, at which point I determined what the issue was. My oil pump was not leaking.
Explain to me how "aerodynamics and gravity", concepts I've never heard of before now 🙄, would have caused oil to seep into the mating surface of the oil pan and engine block.
Explain to me how "aerodynamics and gravity", concepts I've never heard of before now 🙄, would have caused oil to seep into the mating surface of the oil pan and engine block.
This argument would make sense if you only resealed the oil pan and proved that it no longer leaks, but you did a triple job of removing the oil pump and now you're proving it was only the oil pan that was leaking. Why did you remove the oil pump??? There is such a thing called logic, have you heard of such a thing?
This argument would make sense if you only resealed the oil pan and proved that it no longer leaks, but you did a triple job of removing the oil pump and now you're proving it was only the oil pan that was leaking. Why did you remove the oil pump??? There is such a thing called logic, have you heard of such a thing?
Thanks, I understand what path the oil would have taken if it were leaking. There was not oil anywhere near the top of the oil pump.
I removed the oil pump because the o-ring is known to leak on these vehicles and it made sense to replace it at the same time. Only a fool would not have done that. Same reason you replace the water pump and pulleys when you do a timing belt job. Preventative measure.
Anyways, I don't know why this thread had to turn into an argument. I reported back with my findings because it surprised me as much as it did you. The attacks are uncalled for. If you're in the Virginia area, please swing by and prove me otherwise. Or are you the type of person that trolls the forum and jumps at the opportunity to insult someone you know nothing about rather than provide meaningful constructive feedback? 😉
Please answer my question...how do you explain oil on the mating surfaces of the oil pan and engine block if the Honda Bond was sealing the pan properly? Aerodynamics?
Thanks, I understand what path the oil would have taken if it were leaking. There was not oil anywhere near the top of the oil pump.
I removed the oil pump because the o-ring is known to leak on these vehicles and it made sense to replace it at the same time. Only a fool would not have done that. Same reason you replace the water pump and pulleys when you do a timing belt job. Preventative measure.
Anyways, I don't know why this thread had to turn into an argument. I reported back with my findings because it surprised me as much as it did you. The attacks are uncalled for. If you're in the Virginia area, please swing by and prove me otherwise. Or are you the type of person that trolls the forum and jumps at the opportunity to insult someone you know nothing about rather than provide meaningful constructive feedback? 😉
Please answer my question...how do you explain oil on the mating surfaces of the oil pan and engine block if the Honda Bond was sealing the pan properly? Aerodynamics?
What do you think, which source will be more plausible - a person who has been looking for the cause of such a simple leak for several years or 8 years of experience with leaks on these engines? The sealant on the oil pan cannot leak because there is no pressure there, it is physically impossible, so this story sounds like complete nonsense.
You are fooling everyone about a wet bolt, and now you are trying to prove that the bolt is wet because of the oil pan leak? Stop feeding us with this BS.The oil appears on the mating surfaces by applying it with your finger, captain obvious.
Now that's a valid point (not being under pressure). Why didn't you say that to begin with? Regardless of where it's coming from, one thing is for sure. It won't be leaking once I'm done with it 👍.
Since you have so much experience with this engine, what type of oil do you suggest using?
Please tell me you aren't implying I dipped my finger in oil and smeared it on the mating surface 🤦♂️. I have better things to do with my time than to fabricate phony evidence. I will admit when I'm wrong. But again, it doesn't look like it was leaking from the top of the oil pump, at least not significantly enough to cause this amount of loss. The primary source must be the spool valve.
03-03-2023, 11:32 AM
