C-003: OFFICIAL Oil Thread (All oil related threads will be merged here)
#1
C-003: OFFICIAL Oil Thread (All oil related threads will be merged here)
*** Mod Edit ***
Chart of Honda/Acura Recommended Oil Weights by Vehicle Engine and Year in Post #50:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...0&postcount=50
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I hope this thread is in the right place! I was looking for a section where people can post about Mechanical problems or maitenance but cant find it. So I apologize if it is in the wrong place.
Anyhoo, my question is, how long do you guys keep the factory fill oil in the crankcase? I have seen Used Oil Analysis of Honda motors which show that they use a special oil for break-in process. It has a lot of Molybdenum(friction modifier) and a lot more of Zincdithiophosphate(anti-wear elements) They also put in a lot of Calcium(detergents). I just dont know if they still do that. I try to run the engine hard(high rpm's) for 15 seconds then slow down and repeat if a few times. Obviously I do this safely. From tearing down the engines I see that the rings seat properly. So what is everyone using for Oil? I am planning to use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in this motor. How long have you kept the factory fill? Thanks,
Deven
Chart of Honda/Acura Recommended Oil Weights by Vehicle Engine and Year in Post #50:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...0&postcount=50
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hope this thread is in the right place! I was looking for a section where people can post about Mechanical problems or maitenance but cant find it. So I apologize if it is in the wrong place.
Anyhoo, my question is, how long do you guys keep the factory fill oil in the crankcase? I have seen Used Oil Analysis of Honda motors which show that they use a special oil for break-in process. It has a lot of Molybdenum(friction modifier) and a lot more of Zincdithiophosphate(anti-wear elements) They also put in a lot of Calcium(detergents). I just dont know if they still do that. I try to run the engine hard(high rpm's) for 15 seconds then slow down and repeat if a few times. Obviously I do this safely. From tearing down the engines I see that the rings seat properly. So what is everyone using for Oil? I am planning to use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in this motor. How long have you kept the factory fill? Thanks,
Deven
Last edited by Bearcat94; 12-11-2011 at 11:03 AM.
#2
Suzuka Master
I hope this thread is in the right place! I was looking for a section where people can post about Mechanical problems or maitenance but cant find it. So I apologize if it is in the wrong place.
Anyhoo, my question is, how long do you guys keep the factory fill oil in the crankcase? I have seen Used Oil Analysis of Honda motors which show that they use a special oil for break-in process. It has a lot of Molybdenum(friction modifier) and a lot more of Zincdithiophosphate(anti-wear elements) They also put in a lot of Calcium(detergents). I just dont know if they still do that. I try to run the engine hard(high rpm's) for 15 seconds then slow down and repeat if a few times. Obviously I do this safely. From tearing down the engines I see that the rings seat properly. So what is everyone using for Oil? I am planning to use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in this motor. How long have you kept the factory fill? Thanks,
Deven
Anyhoo, my question is, how long do you guys keep the factory fill oil in the crankcase? I have seen Used Oil Analysis of Honda motors which show that they use a special oil for break-in process. It has a lot of Molybdenum(friction modifier) and a lot more of Zincdithiophosphate(anti-wear elements) They also put in a lot of Calcium(detergents). I just dont know if they still do that. I try to run the engine hard(high rpm's) for 15 seconds then slow down and repeat if a few times. Obviously I do this safely. From tearing down the engines I see that the rings seat properly. So what is everyone using for Oil? I am planning to use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in this motor. How long have you kept the factory fill? Thanks,
Deven
#3
I was doing some research about maintenance and the thing that caught my eye was the fact that the TL only takes 4.5 quarts of oil!! Is that true or the information is wrong??? My dad's ES350 with less hp, take 6.5 quarts of oil. Can someone assure me that I have the right information? Thanks.
#5
Three Wheelin'
I get factory oil out at 2K and go Mobil1 then use MID to about 30% which is about 5K miles for me. Ironically my GF CR-V the MID goes way longer, I woudl have thought a higher revving 4 would have had the oil change come up more frequently and we both drive very similar, if anything she does far more short trips.
Hey Keith, aren't you leasing? So why bother? I'm leasing also and I'm not bringing it in 'til the Oil Life says 0%.
#6
Suzuka Master
I'm also taking decent care as I supect I may try to sell it out early from lease, I doubt I'll be able to the way Acura lease payoff works, but one never knows, if you asked me 5 years ago if I would own 6 Acura TLs by 2009 I would have laughed!!
#7
Pete, if you are leasing why did you get the aftermarket grille? I have never leased a car so I don't even know what all the logistics are but do you have to put the original grille on when your lease is up?
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#8
#9
Intermediate
I've asked the same question about motor oil. Is the original fill oil something special? If so, why not continue to use it (does it have an Acura part number)?
BTW, I believe the recommended viscosity is 5W-20 (maybe for gas mileage), and 4.5 quarts (4.3 litres) is correct (page 549).
I hope someone has the technical data to answer.
Thanks
BTW, I believe the recommended viscosity is 5W-20 (maybe for gas mileage), and 4.5 quarts (4.3 litres) is correct (page 549).
I hope someone has the technical data to answer.
Thanks
Last edited by BarryR; 05-11-2009 at 08:48 PM.
#10
Three Wheelin'
It's not aftermarket....it's the same replacement OEM grill, just painted to match the rest of the car....many dealers are already doing it to their showroom cars so it's not a real "mod." Besides, I have the original unpainted grill in case if I need to switch it back.
#11
Gotcha. Sorry I for some reason thought it was aftermarket
#12
I've asked the same question about motor oil. Is the original fill oil something special? If so, why not continue to use it (does it have an Acura part number)?
BTW, I believe the recommended viscosity is 5W-20 (maybe for gas mileage), and 4.5 quarts (4.3 litres) is correct (page 549).
I hope someone has the technical data to answer.
Thanks
BTW, I believe the recommended viscosity is 5W-20 (maybe for gas mileage), and 4.5 quarts (4.3 litres) is correct (page 549).
I hope someone has the technical data to answer.
Thanks
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/a060800.PDF
According to this article, Honda Motor Company uses Molybdenum(friction modifier) in the critical componets of the engine to reduce friction wear which in turn turns the oil dark as night. The technician said to leave the oil until Oil Life Monitor says 10% remaining.
Oh, I went to Amsoil website and it says the 2009 TL takes 4.6 quarts of oil. Since Wal-Mart sells 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum, I will just buy that and put in 5 quarts with an oversize filter.
#13
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
At 15% my car was warning me for an A1 service EVERY time I started the car. No way I was going to wait until 5 or even 10% and have this stupid warning. I used Amsoil 0-20 with the Amsoil filter. The oil that drained out was dark and thick. I emptied out 5qt into the motor, the dipstick just was reading 1/2 full at 4.5qt. Shrugs.
#14
At 15% my car was warning me for an A1 service EVERY time I started the car. No way I was going to wait until 5 or even 10% and have this stupid warning. I used Amsoil 0-20 with the Amsoil filter. The oil that drained out was dark and thick. I emptied out 5qt into the motor, the dipstick just was reading 1/2 full at 4.5qt. Shrugs.
#17
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C-003: OFFICIAL Oil Thread (All oil related threads will be merged here)
1st Oil Change. Synthetic or not?
I'm at 4100 miles in my PMM '09 FWD-Tech and my oil life indicator is at 50%. I'm going on 2K+ road trip and I thought it would be prudent to change the oil before I go. I'm leaning towards making the change to Mobil 1, thinking the break-in period is over. I'm a big believer in synthetics but some people think you should wait 'til 10K to use synthetic oil. Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
I'm at 4100 miles in my PMM '09 FWD-Tech and my oil life indicator is at 50%. I'm going on 2K+ road trip and I thought it would be prudent to change the oil before I go. I'm leaning towards making the change to Mobil 1, thinking the break-in period is over. I'm a big believer in synthetics but some people think you should wait 'til 10K to use synthetic oil. Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
Last edited by Bearcat94; 09-23-2009 at 10:58 PM.
#18
My beer fridge is in
i went on a 2500 mile road trip at 5000 miles. When i got back is when i hit 15% and got my oil changed. I stayed with the acura oil. If they don't recommend it, why pay the extra $$$?
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#19
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Thanks for your input. I just don't feel comfortable putting that many miles between oil changes, regardless of what the oil indicator says. Especially the 1st oil change. I don't think I have ever gone below 30% on the indicator in my '05 A-Spec or in the Honda Odyssey we traded in on the 4G. More frequent oil changes are cheap insurance in the long run in my book. Cost of synthetic is really not an issue, 5 quart jug of 5W-20 Mobil 1 is $22 at Walmart plus a filter. I do all maintenance myself, saves time and money. Especially with 3 vehicles. But, some people say to wait 'til 10K to make sure the piston rings are fully seated in the cylinders because the superior lubrication properties of synthetic oil can prevent that from happening and can lead to blow by. It does say in the owners manual that it is OK to use synthetics and there is no mention of waiting for any specific mileage. Of course Acura recommends you use genuine "Acura" oil, that's how they make money.
#20
My beer fridge is in
i don't mind acura changing my oil $40 for a oil change and vacuum and wash? not a bad deal if you ask me
Plus the first year of oil changes are free
Plus the first year of oil changes are free
#22
It's a wives tale that you should use conventional for the first 10,000 miles. If there was any truth to that, I would recommend that you only have to keep the initial factory fill in for 500 miles, but that's about it. During that time, the piston rings should have already seated and synthetic can be used. In fact, Torco (a well-trusted break-in oil manufacturer among other things) has released a "synthetic break-in oil" to please believers in synthetics.
As a matter of fact, initial fill oil usually does its trick within the first 100 to 500 miles, as it usually has a higher phosphorus and zinc content to ensure propery "sealing." But with modern day engines and tolerances becoming more and more precise, these older tricks of using a conventional oil or whatnot are not needed.
You're completely fine with going straight to synthetic. The misconceptions about synthetic oil continue to abound in our community and disbelievers will taunt that above all else, their conventional oil saves money by costing less and still having roughly the same change intervals. I think the jury is still out on that one as some synthetic oils might very well INCREASE fuel mileage by a fractional amount, but that fractional amount can actually add up to paying for itself in fuel savings over the course of a normal oil-change interval. Remember, we live in an age of $2.00+ gasoline and every little bit of mileage gained back can have larger and more positive effects on your wallet.
As a matter of fact, initial fill oil usually does its trick within the first 100 to 500 miles, as it usually has a higher phosphorus and zinc content to ensure propery "sealing." But with modern day engines and tolerances becoming more and more precise, these older tricks of using a conventional oil or whatnot are not needed.
You're completely fine with going straight to synthetic. The misconceptions about synthetic oil continue to abound in our community and disbelievers will taunt that above all else, their conventional oil saves money by costing less and still having roughly the same change intervals. I think the jury is still out on that one as some synthetic oils might very well INCREASE fuel mileage by a fractional amount, but that fractional amount can actually add up to paying for itself in fuel savings over the course of a normal oil-change interval. Remember, we live in an age of $2.00+ gasoline and every little bit of mileage gained back can have larger and more positive effects on your wallet.
#23
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Guys,
Advance Auto Parts is having a sale on 5 Quarts of Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 Oil Filter for $29.99. Do yourself a favor and pick up 2 or 3 sets and you'll be set for years to come. This is a great deal for us do-it-yourselfers.
Advance Auto Parts is having a sale on 5 Quarts of Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 Oil Filter for $29.99. Do yourself a favor and pick up 2 or 3 sets and you'll be set for years to come. This is a great deal for us do-it-yourselfers.
#27
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Question on my honda I use to use extended mobil 1 synthetic for 15,000 or 1 year. Didn't have any problem, do you think Acura computer will be able to tell the real life of an extended oil such as the mobil synthetic?
#28
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Definetly not. It's not a direct measurement of oil quality. It's an estimate based on miles, rpms, temp, etc.
Your Owners Manual even has a disclaimer along the lines of, "You can use synthetic if you want, but you still have to follow the MID to keep your warranty." Check the Maint Section, Page 548.
#29
My beer fridge is in
#30
Instructor
My dealer recommends changing oil every 3 months or 3750 miles, and puts the sticker on the windshield like they're a Jiffy Lube. I can pretty much ignore this, right? Considering the whole point of the maintenance minder system is about replacing arbitrary guidelines like that.
#31
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My dealer recommends changing oil every 3 months or 3750 miles, and puts the sticker on the windshield like they're a Jiffy Lube. I can pretty much ignore this, right? Considering the whole point of the maintenance minder system is about replacing arbitrary guidelines like that.
#32
My dealer recommends changing oil every 3 months or 3750 miles, and puts the sticker on the windshield like they're a Jiffy Lube. I can pretty much ignore this, right? Considering the whole point of the maintenance minder system is about replacing arbitrary guidelines like that.
#33
Racer
My dealer recommends changing oil every 3 months or 3750 miles, and puts the sticker on the windshield like they're a Jiffy Lube. I can pretty much ignore this, right? Considering the whole point of the maintenance minder system is about replacing arbitrary guidelines like that.
#35
Suzuka Master
I used to use it a while back, but it is harder to fnd and Mobil 1 only sells it in quart bottles, where 5W20 can be had in 5 qt bottle for like $23 vs. almost $6 a bottle in qt bottles. 0W20 big claim is gets throughout the engine faster at startup reducing initial wear. If Mobil 1 sold it in 5 qt jugs I woudl be using it.
#36
Waaaaaaaaaa.
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Royal Purple 5-20W
A couple weeks back my A1 light came on, at 8669kms (5386mi for you Americans).
I decided to switch out my oil for Royal Purple 5-20W and a K&N Filter. I paid $12.50CAD a quart for the oil. Every 2nd bottle was half price so it didn't work out to be that bad. I got my oil and filter switched out at your local mint lube, and proceeded to get my tires rotated at the stealership.
After 2 weeks of driving, I can 100% tell you that the car definitely drives smoother. I sometimes had a tiny bit of a clunk when going from 2nd to 1st, which is completely gone now, and accelerating is smoother.
For anyone that is looking for different oil, I'd definitely recommend RP.
I decided to switch out my oil for Royal Purple 5-20W and a K&N Filter. I paid $12.50CAD a quart for the oil. Every 2nd bottle was half price so it didn't work out to be that bad. I got my oil and filter switched out at your local mint lube, and proceeded to get my tires rotated at the stealership.
After 2 weeks of driving, I can 100% tell you that the car definitely drives smoother. I sometimes had a tiny bit of a clunk when going from 2nd to 1st, which is completely gone now, and accelerating is smoother.
For anyone that is looking for different oil, I'd definitely recommend RP.
#37
Your Friendly Canadian
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I've heard only good things about RP, but it's pricey. $12.50 a quart, times 5 quarts (I've only seen them in single quart bottles, sadly) works out to $62.50 at my local Crappy Tire. Add in the cost of the filter, washers (negligible), and someone to do the change, plus taxes, and you're looking at a $90 oil change
But good to see you got that discount. Where did you buy the oil?
But good to see you got that discount. Where did you buy the oil?
#38
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I've heard only good things about RP, but it's pricey. $12.50 a quart, times 5 quarts (I've only seen them in single quart bottles, sadly) works out to $62.50 at my local Crappy Tire. Add in the cost of the filter, washers (negligible), and someone to do the change, plus taxes, and you're looking at a $90 oil change
But good to see you got that discount. Where did you buy the oil?
But good to see you got that discount. Where did you buy the oil?
Only worked out to be around 50 for the oil, and 15 for the filter (I think). Driving a 53k+ car... seems like a small cost to make sure the car gets the best it needs, personally
#39
Racer
Have you tried RP ATF? I've been wanting to try that out.
#40
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I actually have been looking for the ATF... and also the RP Oil Filters.
Apparently PS has been looking for a new supplier for RP products.. and hasn't been too successful.
When I get my hands on some I'll go to Minit Lube and get it switched out.. but for the time being:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1523966
Apparently PS has been looking for a new supplier for RP products.. and hasn't been too successful.
When I get my hands on some I'll go to Minit Lube and get it switched out.. but for the time being:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1523966