How long have you been getting out of your brake pads and rotors? Also, how much city driving vs highway?

 

really depends on how you drive..

its very subjective.

 

Last couple of days, I've been wondering if pads are done. I've been getting an intermittent "friction" noise when applying the brakes. Interestingly, it not always there, and on one occasion, I could swear that something just "clicked", and the sound disappeared.

 

over 84K miles on original pads and rotors. was over 97% highway until mid Dec 2011 ... probably still aound 93% highway overall in three years of ownership.

 

It would be a metallic SQUEAKING noise and not a friction noise.

there is a metal prong that sticks out from the pad.
once the pad material reaches below this metal prong, the metal prong would hit the rotor, emitting a metallic squeaking noise

 

73k. 70% highway driving.
I replaced the rear pads and rotors around 60k and now my front pads and rotors are almost gone so I need to replace them before winter comes.

 

yup, pads can easily last you over 80k if driven in the right condition..

my car is 25k, and my front pads still looks like nothing wore down.

i do about 70% fwy with litterally no traffic.

one thing you should not do is ride your brakes but to do sequential braking where you just press and release press and release.

i learn that from a mechanic that worked on my dc2 i had a few years ago.. he was a master mechanic from japan for 32 years.

 

My friend has a 2012 with 19,000 and front rotors are starting to warp. Is that still considered warranty?

 

If the rotors are warp, some dealers will turn them under good faith. I just replaced mine, because warp rotors are common with the ones honda uses. I never have any problems with the aftermarket, high Q rotors. If you turn them they will just warp again.

 

a good cause of warped rotors is when you wash your car right after you driven it..

here is the tread.. read about it

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-2004-2008-124/warped-brembos-862223/#post13927732

 

I also let the engine assist with the breaking. And before somebody talks about this practice accelerating clutch wear ... 221K miles on Y2KCL-S and still had the original clutch.

 

Any one running R1 Concept's Drilled and Slotted Rotors? If so, what pads did you go with?

 

not all of us are as fortunate as you are to have a sh-awd M/T.


but yea, if you have m/t let the weight and engine slow your car down.

and do you mean a 2000 CL-S?? its actually alot easier to just say 2000 instead of Y2K

 

no ... Y2K3CL-S means/meant 2003 CL-S.

 

So car washes and driving in the rain are out

 

My dealer told me that my pads and rotors would need replacment soon. I installed Stop Tech and Hawk Street pads. Happy with them, but determined that there was still plenty of juice left in the originals at 50K miles. 2008 TL S.

 

yea it would be clear if you actually stated Y2KCL-S

you clearly put y2kcl-s..

Ill just correct you.

here is quote.

 

driving in the rain is ok, as water just barely splashes the rotors. just enough to keep it from not warping..

washing your car right after a regular days drive with normal weather can warp it as your rotors stays hot and has no way of cooling besides giving it time. avoid spraying water directly at the rotors, but i guess we all end up doing it as we need to clean our wheels.

 

ur correct ... ever since I got my computer back from a motherboard replacement, I've noticed that it sometimes skips keystrokes while I'm typing. I clearly missed that one, because it should have read Y2K3CL-S. However, as my new ride arrived at the dealer this am, there won't be much need for me to be using that label anymore.

 

To also enhance your answer, the difference between the rain and a car wash is the following. When its not raining, your rotors will remain dry and tend to get much warmer than when its raining. The steady stream of rain/wet roads splashing on the roads is less drastic than going from super hot and dry to full fledge cold water spray. I agree that splashing cold water on hot rotors is not what I would do....Although I heard the counter argument that its not as bad as what people think. When in doubt, err on the safe side

 

I've never bought into this theory that washing your car after it rains can warp your rotors. The temperature change is just not that great. Last time I replaced my pads and did the 'bed in' procedure I brought along my non-contact IR thermometer. At the end of the bed in process, which is far more severe braking than normal driving, the temps on the rotors were around 400F, maybe a bit more. I took the temp after doing the last round of bed in and driving maybe a half mile. I wanted to make sure I had even temps from left and right side. By the time I got back home from bedding in the pads (maybe 1.5 miles) the temps on the front were around 200F, rears not even 150F. This would be the worse I would expect from normal driving. If I were to wash my car, by the time I got the hose and buckets out I bet these would be many degrees cooler (maybe 150 and 100). The water out of my hose is maybe 70F, so I'm having a hard time thinking <100F of temperature change is going to warp the rotors. Many that drive in winter weather see worse every time they take their foot off the brake and let the freezing air hit the rotors.

Unless the rotors are measured to be warped, the pulsating braking effect people perceive as 'warping' is more often an uneven deposit of brake pad material on the rotors.

Not trying to re-start this debate, but I have no problem washing my car after I've driven it. Not the least worried about warping my rotors.

 

Something to remember: Engine rebuilds are more expensive than brakes.

 

^ something to consider ... 221K miles and no engine rebuild either

 

THiS^ Brakes are easier to get to then the clutch.

Honda=warped rotors.

 

Here is you mistake, we never said to wash your car right after it rains. it would make no sense as weather is cooler and your car will cool down faster in rain weather.

we are talking about two different scenarios. Rain wont damage your rotors.. washing your car right after a dry drive can cause your rotors to warp.

when you drive home today from where ever.. go and stick your 4 fingers on the rotor and let me know if that feels like 150 degrees..

keep min mind.. i can stick my hand in 150 degree temp water.. boiling temps for water is 212C. i can guarantee you that your skin will burn instantly..

dont trust me.. go ahead and try it.

yes, thats why i stated that in "DRY" weather it is not recommended. but in a cold weather environment, you dont need to worry about it because the weather will cool it down as you drive.

may or may be, but keep in mind.. when your starts pulsating out of no where when you haven't changed your brakes recently.. then the chances of an uneven deposit of brake pad is slim as the car was previously driving fine..

Uneven placement of pad can be discovered in the first few hundred miles of the brake change as warped rotors can come up any time.

maybe your lucky?

but everyone knows.. you do not wash a hot car.. plain and simple..

you should read up on thermal shock, you will understand.

 

Potmilkz,

Thanks for the input but it doesn't change anything. Washing the car after driving is just not going to warp the rotors. I understand what you are trying to say about thermal shock, but the temperature change is just not that great. I don't need to put my fingers on the rotors to know how hot they are, I measured them, and they are not as hot as you think once you have parked your car. But the heat input into the rotors that happens under braking, especially a panic situation at speed, is far greater than the heat taken out of your relatively cool rotors by temperate water from a garden hose. Under hard braking your rotors could raise hundreds of degrees in seconds. All that energy from a 3,500 lb car stopping creates far more heat than that water could hope to remove. If rotors were going to warp due to thermal shock it is far more likely to happen during hard braking than car washing.

 

im not saying that it cant happen. the possibilities are there, it can happen. thermal shock explains it all regardless if its a rotor or not.

i just wanted to correct your info.. its not the temperatures you described it to be, its way hotter than your assumed 150F

btw who washes their car right after a drive anyways.. thats not the smartest idea to begin with... there will be water spots everywhere as the car will dry the water on the hood, exhaust, etc..

anyways back on topic.

 

Wow, talk about a thread being hijacked!

 

Sometimes, we get confused with warped rotors.
sometimes, its pad material left behind from a poor bed in.
this would cause one side of the rotor to become heavy and imitate a warped rotor.

 

All this info is nice, bur again I buy quality rotors and pads, and I can wash, break hard etc, and I have no problem with rotors or pad life.The honda rotors and just JUNK. Thats the bottom line.

 

I disagree this is my second Honda that I have had and bought new, and both times I have not had to change brakes before 90,000kms (80% city driving) my current truck 04 Element just changed front brakes at 92,000kms and after 8 years, rear brakes are original as well.
Also agree with washing the vehicle after being driven and spraying the rotors directly is a no no. This is something I always avoided doing and never had warped Honda rotors. As a matter of fact I went to Honda and replaced my rotors and pads after 92k with originals and they said I didn't even need new rotors.

 

I just use the ACURA original parts. I changed 4 new rotors at 40,000 miles. and already replaced the 2nd sets of pads. it just depends on your driving condition, and driving style.

 

I just received my R1 Concepts Drilled and Slotted Rotors and pads from UPS! What do you think a fair price for installation would be at a shop for the front and back pads and rotors? I have no time to do this myself!