Back to 3G TL?
02-06-2017, 12:32 PM
#1
Back to 3G TL?
Who on here has gone from 3G to 4G and back to 3G? My SHAWD trans shifting is very annoying with the acceleration. All the clunky hesitation from 1st to 3rd is bad when trying to merge into traffic. Everything else is smooth. I had the TSB done and it's still there. Dealer says all normal. Whatever. Running the 19's is harsh with the stiffer suspension. There's times I don't know if it's just that or if the suspension is crapped out. Most likely the 19's though. I have a rattle under the car that I have taken to the dealer and they can't seem to find, but me and my neighbors know it's there it's so loud and annoying. It's been described on here as a loose heat shield but dealer doesn't agree. SMH! Every morning driving off I hear it. Outside of the tech losses have anyone gone back to a 3G or do you stick it out and accept the flaws?
02-06-2017, 06:56 PM
#3
Who on here has gone from 3G to 4G and back to 3G? My SHAWD trans shifting is very annoying with the acceleration. All the clunky hesitation from 1st to 3rd is bad when trying to merge into traffic. Everything else is smooth. I had the TSB done and it's still there. Dealer says all normal. Whatever. Running the 19's is harsh with the stiffer suspension. There's times I don't know if it's just that or if the suspension is crapped out. Most likely the 19's though. I have a rattle under the car that I have taken to the dealer and they can't seem to find, but me and my neighbors know it's there it's so loud and annoying. It's been described on here as a loose heat shield but dealer doesn't agree. SMH! Every morning driving off I hear it. Outside of the tech losses have anyone gone back to a 3G or do you stick it out and accept the flaws?
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (02-07-2017)
02-06-2017, 10:45 PM
#4
Hey GhostTL09, good to see you around
I would befriend an Acura mechanic and have him take a deeper diagnosis, also, have him remove and put the heat shield back on
I have a bit more than 150,000 miles now and the transmission lags for sure.
Is the same problem there when you drive it in Sport mode?
I would have the transmission fluid replaced along with the rear differential fluid and see how it performs
I would befriend an Acura mechanic and have him take a deeper diagnosis, also, have him remove and put the heat shield back on
I have a bit more than 150,000 miles now and the transmission lags for sure.
Is the same problem there when you drive it in Sport mode?
I would have the transmission fluid replaced along with the rear differential fluid and see how it performs
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (02-07-2017)
02-07-2017, 06:31 AM
#5
the two guys above me agree....
maintain the car and try to locate the sound yourself without relying on the dealer...this could mean an indie mechanic if you are not comfortable checking it out..
with the third gen TL being $6k or less....THEY WILL have problems of their own.
or you could splurge on a mint one, but spending $15k for an ageing 10 -12 year old car is not sensible.
maintain the car and try to locate the sound yourself without relying on the dealer...this could mean an indie mechanic if you are not comfortable checking it out..
with the third gen TL being $6k or less....THEY WILL have problems of their own.
or you could splurge on a mint one, but spending $15k for an ageing 10 -12 year old car is not sensible.
02-07-2017, 09:45 AM
#6
No way I'm going at 14k for 58k on an 07-08 TL.
@flunder it's not a manual. I'm just describing what the car feels like like it's skipping gears.
I think I have a great car that has a perfect storm of annoyances to make me not want to deal with it. I am driving our 08 MDX since my wife is working from home now just to take a break from the creaks and cracks.
@ Drei the car is quick off the line in Sport mode, no lag at all, but I don't like the paddle shifting. I actually don't care for it. I drove up a hill in snow at 20mph with no issues in Sport recently. but I'm going to be getting some appraisals on vehicle.
@flunder it's not a manual. I'm just describing what the car feels like like it's skipping gears.
I think I have a great car that has a perfect storm of annoyances to make me not want to deal with it. I am driving our 08 MDX since my wife is working from home now just to take a break from the creaks and cracks.
@ Drei the car is quick off the line in Sport mode, no lag at all, but I don't like the paddle shifting. I actually don't care for it. I drove up a hill in snow at 20mph with no issues in Sport recently. but I'm going to be getting some appraisals on vehicle.
Trending Topics
02-07-2017, 03:54 PM
#9
The Original Shawdy
As far as the rattling goes, have you upgraded any of the exhaust components? You say the rattling is coming from the heat shield or that general area so I'd start there with removing and installing. If it still persists then you can move on. Also you can drive in sport mode without the use of the paddle shifters and it still runs strong. I personally would work out the kinks and keep it. Going from AWD to FWD will be night and day even though the 3G still drives fine. I don't believe in downgrading unless budget is a factor. Rather fix what I have.
Ultimitaly the decision is yours.
Ultimitaly the decision is yours.
02-07-2017, 07:28 PM
#10
As far as the rattling goes, have you upgraded any of the exhaust components? You say the rattling is coming from the heat shield or that general area so I'd start there with removing and installing. If it still persists then you can move on. Also you can drive in sport mode without the use of the paddle shifters and it still runs strong. I personally would work out the kinks and keep it. Going from AWD to FWD will be night and day even though the 3G still drives fine. I don't believe in downgrading unless budget is a factor. Rather fix what I have.
Ultimitaly the decision is yours.
Ultimitaly the decision is yours.
02-08-2017, 03:11 AM
#11
5th Gear
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've read that prolonged driving in Sport without using paddles can be dangerous to the transmission even though it has safety parameters coded in to shift. The toughest part of the decision is downgrading the Tech. Ill look to jack car up this weekend and really take a look at possible areas where that noise is coming from. I may consider going with the 09-11 AWD wheels also as a compromise to the 19s.
02-08-2017, 08:12 PM
#12
Sorry to hijack on Outlaw's behalf, but I have some thoughts...
First, what codes is it throwing?
Pinging is pre-detonation of the fuel in the cylinder. In other words, the fuel/air mixture is succumbing to the pressure and heat in the cylinder before the spark plug sparks. Higher-octane fuel resists this pre-detonation because it resists heat and pressure better than lower-octane fuel. (That is, higher octanes burn slower and aren't "hotter burning" as the public sometimes thinks.)
True pre-detonation is a serious problem, so much so that with the exception of purposely tuned sportscars, no company would allow its engineers to design a modern mass market car to allow pre-detonation even with the worst of fuels a typical consumer can be expected to reasonably purchase. If your car is really pre-detonating, and has been for awhile, you have seriously compromised the health of this engine.
Alternatively, you may only think your car is pre-detonating. What's curious is it goes away as you drive it after just a few seconds. It could be an issue with the computer that somehow corrects itself, but a modern engine that is so screwed up that it allows noticeable pinging most likely wouldn't be able to adjust enough to fix the problem. Again, pre-detonation is not just a noise; it is the fuel exploding in your cylinder before the piston reaches top-dead center, and true pre-detonation destroys pistons, rings, cylinder walls and rod bearings.
While that it performs better with the 94 does suggest it could be a pre-detonation issue, I think more testing is required -- mostly because if it really has been pre-detonating for two years, it's unlikely the car would still be functioning. I would try some regular fuel with some well-regarded octane booster, or even some quality high-octane race fuel (like something from VP) and see if that makes the car run even better. If the issue goes away completely, then I think there is something fundamentally wrong, like a major air leak, and you have just been lucky the engine hasn't given up the ghost already.
(Also, although I'm sure a mechanic has suggested this, for the heck of it, clean the EGR; in the old days, a completely clogged EGR valve could allow cylinder temperatures to rise excessively and facilitate pre-detonation. This probably isn't your issue, but this is free and easy to do, so why not?)
If the high-octane test doesn't work, then I have another suggestion for you. It may sound like a wild goose chase, but sometimes internal exhaust rattles can cause temporary vibrations and noises that travel in odd ways. They also can go away with heat. It's not uncommon for even a broken baffle in a muffler to be the source of an engine bay noise because the sound waves can echo through the uni-body cavities and exit under the hood. I know this sounds weird, but there are times it does happen, and they can sound like rattles. Pay close attention to the muffler next time on cold start up and see if you feel or detect any sound source.
(Another one that I'm sure mechanics have already tested: check the coils.)
Good luck.
(One more, exhaust related but different, perhaps you have a broken, and therefore clogged, pre-cat; although a code would definitely tell you this.)
First, what codes is it throwing?
Pinging is pre-detonation of the fuel in the cylinder. In other words, the fuel/air mixture is succumbing to the pressure and heat in the cylinder before the spark plug sparks. Higher-octane fuel resists this pre-detonation because it resists heat and pressure better than lower-octane fuel. (That is, higher octanes burn slower and aren't "hotter burning" as the public sometimes thinks.)
True pre-detonation is a serious problem, so much so that with the exception of purposely tuned sportscars, no company would allow its engineers to design a modern mass market car to allow pre-detonation even with the worst of fuels a typical consumer can be expected to reasonably purchase. If your car is really pre-detonating, and has been for awhile, you have seriously compromised the health of this engine.
Alternatively, you may only think your car is pre-detonating. What's curious is it goes away as you drive it after just a few seconds. It could be an issue with the computer that somehow corrects itself, but a modern engine that is so screwed up that it allows noticeable pinging most likely wouldn't be able to adjust enough to fix the problem. Again, pre-detonation is not just a noise; it is the fuel exploding in your cylinder before the piston reaches top-dead center, and true pre-detonation destroys pistons, rings, cylinder walls and rod bearings.
While that it performs better with the 94 does suggest it could be a pre-detonation issue, I think more testing is required -- mostly because if it really has been pre-detonating for two years, it's unlikely the car would still be functioning. I would try some regular fuel with some well-regarded octane booster, or even some quality high-octane race fuel (like something from VP) and see if that makes the car run even better. If the issue goes away completely, then I think there is something fundamentally wrong, like a major air leak, and you have just been lucky the engine hasn't given up the ghost already.
(Also, although I'm sure a mechanic has suggested this, for the heck of it, clean the EGR; in the old days, a completely clogged EGR valve could allow cylinder temperatures to rise excessively and facilitate pre-detonation. This probably isn't your issue, but this is free and easy to do, so why not?)
If the high-octane test doesn't work, then I have another suggestion for you. It may sound like a wild goose chase, but sometimes internal exhaust rattles can cause temporary vibrations and noises that travel in odd ways. They also can go away with heat. It's not uncommon for even a broken baffle in a muffler to be the source of an engine bay noise because the sound waves can echo through the uni-body cavities and exit under the hood. I know this sounds weird, but there are times it does happen, and they can sound like rattles. Pay close attention to the muffler next time on cold start up and see if you feel or detect any sound source.
(Another one that I'm sure mechanics have already tested: check the coils.)
Good luck.
(One more, exhaust related but different, perhaps you have a broken, and therefore clogged, pre-cat; although a code would definitely tell you this.)
02-08-2017, 09:39 PM
#14
Back to the old ride? That's like getting with your ex just because your current booty call is away at College Summer Program in Italy. Do yourself a favor, block them both on FB and move on to a fresh piece of ass.
02-09-2017, 11:14 AM
#15
Just bought a new battery and I guess the ECU got reset and it shifts a lot better!
Going back to the rattling, check and see if the heat shield has rusted out or if it split or cracked. We recently had that same problem with our MDX and it turned out to be a rusted out heat shield
Going back to the rattling, check and see if the heat shield has rusted out or if it split or cracked. We recently had that same problem with our MDX and it turned out to be a rusted out heat shield
02-09-2017, 02:33 PM
#17
5th Gear
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-09-2017, 10:09 PM
#18
Just bought a new battery and I guess the ECU got reset and it shifts a lot better!
Going back to the rattling, check and see if the heat shield has rusted out or if it split or cracked. We recently had that same problem with our MDX and it turned out to be a rusted out heat shield
Going back to the rattling, check and see if the heat shield has rusted out or if it split or cracked. We recently had that same problem with our MDX and it turned out to be a rusted out heat shield
02-10-2017, 12:17 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Who on here has gone from 3G to 4G and back to 3G? My SHAWD trans shifting is very annoying with the acceleration. All the clunky hesitation from 1st to 3rd is bad when trying to merge into traffic. Everything else is smooth. I had the TSB done and it's still there. Dealer says all normal. Whatever. Running the 19's is harsh with the stiffer suspension. There's times I don't know if it's just that or if the suspension is crapped out. Most likely the 19's though. I have a rattle under the car that I have taken to the dealer and they can't seem to find, but me and my neighbors know it's there it's so loud and annoying. It's been described on here as a loose heat shield but dealer doesn't agree. SMH! Every morning driving off I hear it. Outside of the tech losses have anyone gone back to a 3G or do you stick it out and accept the flaws?
02-11-2017, 07:16 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
The TLX is just not what we expected after all. It didn't feel like 4g TL replacement (or even 3g TL to some degree), but rather more of 2g TSX replacement. The cost cutting was way to apparent for $45k car and together with crappy and unsafe 9-speed transmission and constant highway vibrations, we just could not take it and unloaded it after about 6 months.
02-12-2017, 04:31 PM
#22
The TLX is just not what we expected after all. It didn't feel like 4g TL replacement (or even 3g TL to some degree), but rather more of 2g TSX replacement. The cost cutting was way to apparent for $45k car and together with crappy and unsafe 9-speed transmission and constant highway vibrations, we just could not take it and unloaded it after about 6 months.
--If you were to post this in the 5G TLX forum you would be accused of lying, lotta purchase justification over there. As far as going back to the 3G from the 4G. NO WAY. The 4G is so much better its not funny. For you though, I would just move on to another car altogether, or get another 4G.
02-13-2017, 09:46 AM
#23
I was very enthusiastic about the TLX when it debuted, but it's not an upgrade from the TL. If Acura called the TLX the TSX and came out with a FMC TL sales would be off the charts but they missed an opportunity and are trying to fit 3 different buyers into 1 vehicle and it's not working that well. 1 for the TSX owner, 2 for the TL owner and the 3rd Enthusiast TypeS mod TL owner. I drove the v6 AWD for a couple days as a loaner and couldn't wait to get back in my 07. It's so light it feels like driving an Accord. I think I really just have a TL that has a few annoyances but overall is a better drive in my opinion than the TLX. But if I were to go back to a 3G it would be for the pleasure of owning it based on design. Nothing like a full A-spec Kit, wheels etc on a 3G. But I do being a unicorn owner in my area of a CBP/Umber SH-AWD. The local Acura dealers would love to have it on their lot.
02-13-2017, 10:03 AM
#24
I was very enthusiastic about the TLX when it debuted, but it's not an upgrade from the TL. If Acura called the TLX the TSX and came out with a FMC TL sales would be off the charts but they missed an opportunity and are trying to fit 3 different buyers into 1 vehicle and it's not working that well. 1 for the TSX owner, 2 for the TL owner and the 3rd Enthusiast TypeS mod TL owner. I drove the v6 AWD for a couple days as a loaner and couldn't wait to get back in my 07. It's so light it feels like driving an Accord. I think I really just have a TL that has a few annoyances but overall is a better drive in my opinion than the TLX. But if I were to go back to a 3G it would be for the pleasure of owning it based on design. Nothing like a full A-spec Kit, wheels etc on a 3G. But I do being a unicorn owner in my area of a CBP/Umber SH-AWD. The local Acura dealers would love to have it on their lot.
02-13-2017, 10:58 AM
#26
Good for me if I ever elect to sell mine. I only have 19K on it and its garaged all the time.
03-13-2017, 09:39 PM
#27
