Advice Needed on Purchasing Used
#1
Advice Needed on Purchasing Used
I am in the preliminary stages of looking to buy a 2009 TL SH-AWD fully loaded with 22,000 miles for around $25-27k.
However, the car has been in an accident (the seller has disclosed from the start). From what I can tell, it is mostly cosmetic damage (front bumper, fog light, and quarter panel were replaced). But the caveat is that it was nearly $15k in repairs (side air bags were released, but I'm not sure about driver airbag).
Common logic usually says that once the airbags deploy to avoid the car at all costs. However, would you guys consider the car seeing that it happened 2 years ago and the seller has been driving it fine since then?
Thanks for all the help!
However, the car has been in an accident (the seller has disclosed from the start). From what I can tell, it is mostly cosmetic damage (front bumper, fog light, and quarter panel were replaced). But the caveat is that it was nearly $15k in repairs (side air bags were released, but I'm not sure about driver airbag).
Common logic usually says that once the airbags deploy to avoid the car at all costs. However, would you guys consider the car seeing that it happened 2 years ago and the seller has been driving it fine since then?
Thanks for all the help!
#2
Stay away. Even if it wasn't in an accident, $25-27k is way too much.
You can buy a 2012 TL albeit base for $32k.
If you really want shawd and tech, I'd look at a 2010 or 2012 that still under warranty.
You can buy a 2012 TL albeit base for $32k.
If you really want shawd and tech, I'd look at a 2010 or 2012 that still under warranty.
#3
The Sicilian
#5
I am in the preliminary stages of looking to buy a 2009 TL SH-AWD fully loaded with 22,000 miles for around $25-27k.
However, the car has been in an accident (the seller has disclosed from the start). From what I can tell, it is mostly cosmetic damage (front bumper, fog light, and quarter panel were replaced). But the caveat is that it was nearly $15k in repairs (side air bags were released, but I'm not sure about driver airbag).
Common logic usually says that once the airbags deploy to avoid the car at all costs. However, would you guys consider the car seeing that it happened 2 years ago and the seller has been driving it fine since then?
Thanks for all the help!
However, the car has been in an accident (the seller has disclosed from the start). From what I can tell, it is mostly cosmetic damage (front bumper, fog light, and quarter panel were replaced). But the caveat is that it was nearly $15k in repairs (side air bags were released, but I'm not sure about driver airbag).
Common logic usually says that once the airbags deploy to avoid the car at all costs. However, would you guys consider the car seeing that it happened 2 years ago and the seller has been driving it fine since then?
Thanks for all the help!
- Find out from the seller what the accident involved, and ask him to provide you the repair documentation, which should detail every part replaced and man hours involved, and who paid for the repairs. If the chassis didn't have to be straightened out or pulled, it might be worth it. And if the insurance company paid for it, all the better. Then follow on to the next test.
- Provide the VIN to Bob Leab at Hyannis Honda, and ask if the vehicle is eligible for the Acura Care with the accident (forward him the repair documentation). Typically for 2012, a vehicle must be 2008 or newer, and still under the original 4/50 warranty to be eligible. If it is still eligible despite the accident, take advantage of the situation.
I hope my perspective helps out a little bit.
#6
My opinion is that it depends. Airbag replacements are a huge cost, and depending on the vehicle, another big cost is the labor. If I were you, this is what I'd do:
I hope my perspective helps out a little bit.
- Find out from the seller what the accident involved, and ask him to provide you the repair documentation, which should detail every part replaced and man hours involved, and who paid for the repairs. If the chassis didn't have to be straightened out or pulled, it might be worth it. And if the insurance company paid for it, all the better. Then follow on to the next test.
- Provide the VIN to Bob Leab at Hyannis Honda, and ask if the vehicle is eligible for the Acura Care with the accident (forward him the repair documentation). Typically for 2012, a vehicle must be 2008 or newer, and still under the original 4/50 warranty to be eligible. If it is still eligible despite the accident, take advantage of the situation.
I hope my perspective helps out a little bit.
The previous owner says that around 10k of the bill was just for airbags (I will be getting the repair bill from the owner on Monday). Does anyone know how much it typically is to replace the side air bags and front air bag?
#7
Buying used today is challenging but getting your questions verified before buying can reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant experience. Insist on seeing written data that should back up what you are being told.
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#9
I also think that if everything checks out with this TL based on my litmus tests, it'd be a terrific steal to negotiate it down to $22K. The negotiation advantage is all with the buyer. =)
#10
My opinion is that CPOs are not a good deal. The dealer overcharges for that certification, and then you're stuck with purchasing AcuraCare from that dealer only, thus giving them even more advantage. That's why it is better to ask them to remove the certification, negotiate the price much lower, then go buy AcuraCare from Bob.
I also think that if everything checks out with this TL based on my litmus tests, it'd be a terrific steal to negotiate it down to $22K. The negotiation advantage is all with the buyer. =)
I also think that if everything checks out with this TL based on my litmus tests, it'd be a terrific steal to negotiate it down to $22K. The negotiation advantage is all with the buyer. =)
I will post the damage/break down of the cost on Monday to get all your opinions.
#11
I have attached the break down of the cost of the repairs.
I can see that suspension word was done (#47-52 on picture 3).
Does anyone know what #56 and #71 is on picture 3?
Would you guys purchase? If so, how much would you pay?
I can see that suspension word was done (#47-52 on picture 3).
Does anyone know what #56 and #71 is on picture 3?
Would you guys purchase? If so, how much would you pay?
#12
i would defff stay away. By me in NJ there is a 2012 sh-awd/tech with 3,000 miles going for 34,000 but was in a accident and its been sitting at the dealer for like 3 months. Get new dont take a risk
#13
אני עומד עם ישראל
I wouldn't go for it. That's a lot of work on a car.
#14
אני עומד עם ישראל
My opinion is that CPOs are not a good deal. The dealer overcharges for that certification, and then you're stuck with purchasing AcuraCare from that dealer only, thus giving them even more advantage. That's why it is better to ask them to remove the certification, negotiate the price much lower, then go buy AcuraCare from Bob.
I also think that if everything checks out with this TL based on my litmus tests, it'd be a terrific steal to negotiate it down to $22K. The negotiation advantage is all with the buyer. =)
I also think that if everything checks out with this TL based on my litmus tests, it'd be a terrific steal to negotiate it down to $22K. The negotiation advantage is all with the buyer. =)
#15
My personal opinion:
The damage isn't too bad. No bent frame, and pretty much replacement of parts.
#56 just means that the metal frame inside the seat was damaged, thus it had to be replaced. Cushion and cushion cover can typically withstand accidents. Or it could be the repair shop's way of saying the whole seat.
#71 is simply the soft ceiling material. In a side collision, or when the side curtain airbag deploys, the headliner will come loose or crack. They simply had to put in a new headliner.
I know it is normal reaction to stay away from anything that had an accident prior, but from my point of view, this wasn't a horrible accident/damage that is so serious that has compromised the car's abilities. I e-brake drifted a lot with my Eclipse GT, and I had an accident on a private drag. Tore up my rear right suspension.
Looking at my archived files, the suspension work was to replace:
Find out who the insurance is (should be in the repair invoice), and who repaired it. If both are reputable companies, then ask if the insurance provided a certificate of repair guarantee. And move on to my next test: Forward the repair docs and VIN to Bob Leab and ask if the car is still eligible for AcuraCare. If so, negotiate. If you want to have the peace of mind, ask if a mechanic or a friend who knows cars well can test drive it. I personally think, in my opinion, that this is an opportunity for you to rob the owner of his TL for cheap!
Just think about it. What are you going to do when you hit a big enough pot hole that bent one of your control arms and an alignment can't fix it? Replace your suspension parts, or go out and buy a new car? Let's be realistic.
I've also attached a diagram of what's what so you can have an idea of what was replaced, so you can somewhat get a sense of comfort. Of course, the decision is up to you. Just don't forget the remaining litmus test I gave you. You owe it to yourself to understand the full scope of damage and repair to make an educated decision. =)
The damage isn't too bad. No bent frame, and pretty much replacement of parts.
#56 just means that the metal frame inside the seat was damaged, thus it had to be replaced. Cushion and cushion cover can typically withstand accidents. Or it could be the repair shop's way of saying the whole seat.
#71 is simply the soft ceiling material. In a side collision, or when the side curtain airbag deploys, the headliner will come loose or crack. They simply had to put in a new headliner.
I know it is normal reaction to stay away from anything that had an accident prior, but from my point of view, this wasn't a horrible accident/damage that is so serious that has compromised the car's abilities. I e-brake drifted a lot with my Eclipse GT, and I had an accident on a private drag. Tore up my rear right suspension.
Looking at my archived files, the suspension work was to replace:
- LT Knuckle
- LT Rear lower arm
- LT Front lower arm
Find out who the insurance is (should be in the repair invoice), and who repaired it. If both are reputable companies, then ask if the insurance provided a certificate of repair guarantee. And move on to my next test: Forward the repair docs and VIN to Bob Leab and ask if the car is still eligible for AcuraCare. If so, negotiate. If you want to have the peace of mind, ask if a mechanic or a friend who knows cars well can test drive it. I personally think, in my opinion, that this is an opportunity for you to rob the owner of his TL for cheap!
Just think about it. What are you going to do when you hit a big enough pot hole that bent one of your control arms and an alignment can't fix it? Replace your suspension parts, or go out and buy a new car? Let's be realistic.
I've also attached a diagram of what's what so you can have an idea of what was replaced, so you can somewhat get a sense of comfort. Of course, the decision is up to you. Just don't forget the remaining litmus test I gave you. You owe it to yourself to understand the full scope of damage and repair to make an educated decision. =)
#16
Do dealers remove certification in your area? Every dealer I've worked with when they chose to certify these cars are worked into the price since it is a fixed cost (extra labor and certain parameters that are needed to recondition the vehicle to make it certified prior to being on the lot).
I know my second Integra was in the similar situation as OpIv37, but I didn't have problems with the purchase or the car itself, and eventually Acura mailed me all the necessary documents.
So I guess the answer is it depends on the situation?
#17
אני עומד עם ישראל
I think some of these dealers jump the gun, stick a certification on a car without it being reconned properly and if a client is interested in buying they'll either rush to get whatever needs to be done finished (telling customers it'll be ready the next business day or two) all to save the cost on the actual additional work to certify a car or remove the certification if the work hasn't been done yet.
I use to be a fixed operations manager for an auto manufacturer (not Acura) so I get a little leery whenever dealer practices are brought up. They shouldn't be listing cars as certified if they actually aren't.
I use to be a fixed operations manager for an auto manufacturer (not Acura) so I get a little leery whenever dealer practices are brought up. They shouldn't be listing cars as certified if they actually aren't.
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