Acura soft paint + CBP = PITA
#1
Acura soft paint + CBP = PITA
I knew Honda/Acura paints were soft, but I didn't know it was this easy to add new swirls/scratches to the paint. I guess someone swiped their finger on the quarter panel because I can see the dust mark it produced.
For the most part, my car only had a very light film of dust..
I checked out the part where the fingers have run on the paint and I see swirls directly on the trail they left behind! To add to that, I just fully detailed the beast, removed literally 95% of swirls, which took 2 weeks! ..... an hour or 2 here and there, totaling maybe +/- 16 hours.
Then, it only took 4 fingers and probably 3 seconds to ruin a small section..
To all my CBP folks, how do you deal with the soft paint and constant rage!
But I do agree on one thing, the paint looks sooo good when taken care of..however long it lasts
For the most part, my car only had a very light film of dust..
I checked out the part where the fingers have run on the paint and I see swirls directly on the trail they left behind! To add to that, I just fully detailed the beast, removed literally 95% of swirls, which took 2 weeks! ..... an hour or 2 here and there, totaling maybe +/- 16 hours.
Then, it only took 4 fingers and probably 3 seconds to ruin a small section..
To all my CBP folks, how do you deal with the soft paint and constant rage!
But I do agree on one thing, the paint looks sooo good when taken care of..however long it lasts
#2
Moderator
just gotta deal with it.. you cant really do anything if your car has dust and someone rubs dust on the clear coat.. any paint would marr if that happened.. black just shows alot more than other colors.
#3
If your TL is a DD, you really have to lower your expectations. At the end of the day, plain and simple, shit happens where it's beyond your control. We can all certainly appreciate a flawless finish but I think that's unrealistic if it is a DD. At one point, I was in my garage every weekend with a DA in one hand. Now I just appreciate knowing that my car is probably the shiniest one in the neighborhood. It certainly isn't perfect but it sure turns heads when its clean.
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d1sturb3d119 (01-09-2014)
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#8
How much does it cost to clear bra the whole car?
I may be mistaken but I heard it could be couple of thousand?
I imagine even clear bra can be damaged which will end up making the car look like crap at the end of the day. Sure you can peal it off and re-apply but that's just more money.
Unless you have an exotic or a collectible, not sure if this is the way you would want to go.
I haven't tried but my understanding is that something like Opti-coat can make it more stretch resistant. About $80 per application if DIY and it is supposed last about 2 years.
I may be mistaken but I heard it could be couple of thousand?
I imagine even clear bra can be damaged which will end up making the car look like crap at the end of the day. Sure you can peal it off and re-apply but that's just more money.
Unless you have an exotic or a collectible, not sure if this is the way you would want to go.
I haven't tried but my understanding is that something like Opti-coat can make it more stretch resistant. About $80 per application if DIY and it is supposed last about 2 years.
#10
^ Marring is basically micro scratches. Scratch is a scratch no matter which way you look at it.
Besides, I never said it will prevent. I said it becomes more scratch resistant but that doesn't mean it will not scratch.
Besides, I never said it will prevent. I said it becomes more scratch resistant but that doesn't mean it will not scratch.
#11
I learned long ago, after first black car, they look great for the 5 minutes they're clean, and they do show every little mar, swirl, etc. Thus haven't and wouldn't own another. I go with White or Silver, much more forgiving, as I'm also a keep it perfect as can be kind of car guy.
#12
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
How much does it cost to clear bra the whole car?
I may be mistaken but I heard it could be couple of thousand?
I imagine even clear bra can be damaged which will end up making the car look like crap at the end of the day. Sure you can peal it off and re-apply but that's just more money.
Unless you have an exotic or a collectible, not sure if this is the way you would want to go.
I haven't tried but my understanding is that something like Opti-coat can make it more stretch resistant. About $80 per application if DIY and it is supposed last about 2 years.
I may be mistaken but I heard it could be couple of thousand?
I imagine even clear bra can be damaged which will end up making the car look like crap at the end of the day. Sure you can peal it off and re-apply but that's just more money.
Unless you have an exotic or a collectible, not sure if this is the way you would want to go.
I haven't tried but my understanding is that something like Opti-coat can make it more stretch resistant. About $80 per application if DIY and it is supposed last about 2 years.
Not the best example but you should be able to find clear vinyl instead of clearbra specifically. If you're careful you won't have scratches. Mine looks like glass except for certain areas. Still haven't done a paint correction. Just sealant and spray wax and good cleaning practice.
If you do the same with the clear vinyl you'll be fine. It can be corrected too but its really challenging. Easier to just replace it. As long as you're not trying to wipe a mark or dust off with a crappy cloth you don't run the risk of damaging your paint. Spray wax, damp microfiber towel and gentle strokes leave you with clean beautiful paint. Just takes patience.
Meguiars #21 sealant, Meguiars spraywax and good cleaning habits. True its not a direct sunlight shot but I don't have any right now. Can't see minor scratches most days.
https://i.imgur.com/SYBVguB.jpg
Keep in mind the sealant and spray wax has now covered all the scratches in the paint
Last edited by d1sturb3d119; 01-09-2014 at 02:55 PM.
#14
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Problem Solved!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892722
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892722
If I tracked my ride enough though it would warrant a wrap.
#15
Moderator
i give no respect for people that vinyl their car.. trim pieces are ok.. but whole car or whole body parts.. flat black hood, flat black trunk.. and that god awful carbon fiber vinyl.. that is what really grinds my gears..
not to mention you are paying $2000 for basically a giant sticker.. that is a set of wheels right there for something you can easily peel off.
not to mention you are paying $2000 for basically a giant sticker.. that is a set of wheels right there for something you can easily peel off.
#16
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
i give no respect for people that vinyl their car.. trim pieces are ok.. but whole car or whole body parts.. flat black hood, flat black trunk.. and that god awful carbon fiber vinyl.. that is what really grinds my gears..
not to mention you are paying $2000 for basically a giant sticker.. that is a set of wheels right there for something you can easily peel off.
not to mention you are paying $2000 for basically a giant sticker.. that is a set of wheels right there for something you can easily peel off.
I do have to say that fewer and fewer people I've seen in SLC are wrapping their cars and are instead using plasti dip. That is really really sad honestly. Can be good in some cases but screams IDGAF about my paint. And coming from car guys that is really sad.
#17
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Displaced New Yorker living in Denver
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Nothing being solved there. More like being masked. If you don't care about paint dip it or vinyl it. Personally though I prefer a car with an immaculate paint job just cause the owner knows what he's doing. Vinyl and plasti dip sucks the soul out of a car.
If I tracked my ride enough though it would warrant a wrap.
If I tracked my ride enough though it would warrant a wrap.
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d1sturb3d119 (01-09-2014)
#19
I've taken a shine (pun intended) to the Garry Dean Wash Method (google it); Scratches are gonna happen regardless, the best you can do is learn how to minimize inflicting them. I'm talking about the micro, spider web type of scratches, of course.
#21
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
10 years down on my TL not a single paint correction done, just really aggressive with the protective products and it still looks like glass. Can it be better? Of course but don't there's no point obsessing over perfecting if one doesn't take the time to try and care for the paint overall.
#22
Like RichTL said Garry Dean, 2 bucket system, waterless washes using ONR, all these methods reduce scratches. Main thing is not to induce swirls and the beauty is using sealants and waxes that mask the daily damage your paint takes and protects it at the same time. Eventually get a paint correction.
10 years down on my TL not a single paint correction done, just really aggressive with the protective products and it still looks like glass. Can it be better? Of course but don't there's no point obsessing over perfecting if one doesn't take the time to try and care for the paint overall.
10 years down on my TL not a single paint correction done, just really aggressive with the protective products and it still looks like glass. Can it be better? Of course but don't there's no point obsessing over perfecting if one doesn't take the time to try and care for the paint overall.
I've forsaken the 2 bucket wash as too labor intensive.
I use ONR and Chemical Guys waterless / rinseless wash products using the GDWM and CGs V7 for a final topcoat.
If the car is REALLY dirty, I just use a Bon Aire Wash-n-Rinse Spray Gun WNR5 (not an electric pressure washer) to get almost all of the dirt off before using the GDWM.
I obsessed over keeping my 2010 Camaro clean and paid the price for my learning curve by needing a paint correction after only a couple of years. I bought into the Adams Detailing Craze but should have followed my first instinct and deferred to a professional for paint correction instead of DIY.
I probably don't need it just yet, but I'll be having some paint correction work done on my (3 yo) TL soon.
I'll be asking the detailer about my methods and hopefully find out that I am doing the least possible damage using my current techniques.
#23
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I've forsaken the 2 bucket wash as too labor intensive.
I use ONR and Chemical Guys waterless / rinseless wash products using the GDWM and CGs V7 for a final topcoat.
If the car is REALLY dirty, I just use a Bon Aire Wash-n-Rinse Spray Gun WNR5 (not an electric pressure washer) to get almost all of the dirt off before using the GDWM.
I obsessed over keeping my 2010 Camaro clean and paid the price for my learning curve by needing a paint correction after only a couple of years. I bought into the Adams Detailing Craze but should have followed my first instinct and deferred to a professional for paint correction instead of DIY.
I probably don't need it just yet, but I'll be having some paint correction work done on my (3 yo) TL soon.
I'll be asking the detailer about my methods and hopefully find out that I am doing the least possible damage using my current techniques.
I use ONR and Chemical Guys waterless / rinseless wash products using the GDWM and CGs V7 for a final topcoat.
If the car is REALLY dirty, I just use a Bon Aire Wash-n-Rinse Spray Gun WNR5 (not an electric pressure washer) to get almost all of the dirt off before using the GDWM.
I obsessed over keeping my 2010 Camaro clean and paid the price for my learning curve by needing a paint correction after only a couple of years. I bought into the Adams Detailing Craze but should have followed my first instinct and deferred to a professional for paint correction instead of DIY.
I probably don't need it just yet, but I'll be having some paint correction work done on my (3 yo) TL soon.
I'll be asking the detailer about my methods and hopefully find out that I am doing the least possible damage using my current techniques.
Its not too bad to do a paint correction on your own. Just use a Microfiber cutting pad an a dual action polisher with Megs 105 cutting compound. Should get rid of any swirls and then switch to a lighter polishing fluid and back it out with foam pads. I'm a detailer on the side btw. The Dual action polisher will save you from burning through your paint unlike a rotary polisher.
Try it out sometime and then just use the right products to protect your paint.
Not hijacking the thread but here's oxidation removal plus a light correction done to my wife's celica. Used a harbor freight DA to get the job done. The pads and backing plate were better products but I got the result I wanted.
Also check out Larry Kosila's videos on youtube about cleaning your car. Just the less your make dry contact with your car the better.
https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/1999-toyota-celica-oxidation-removal-minor-paint-correction-897322/
#24
Yeah, been there, done that and spent lot's o' money on tools and supplies (Flex, PC, Adams polishes and pads, Mother's....) and viewed lot's o' DIY Paint Correction Vids on youboob...
Better to spend a few hunnert $$$ letting a pro do it right the first time, unless you want to invest in a full time hobby (like Vidur)
I will, however, clay more frequently (twice a year) on my own now that the Speedy Surface Prep Towel makes such a quick and easy job of it.
Better to spend a few hunnert $$$ letting a pro do it right the first time, unless you want to invest in a full time hobby (like Vidur)
I will, however, clay more frequently (twice a year) on my own now that the Speedy Surface Prep Towel makes such a quick and easy job of it.
Last edited by RichTL; 01-10-2014 at 04:41 PM.
#25
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Yeah, been there, done that and spent lot's o' money on tools and supplies (Flex, PC, Adams polishes and pads, Mother's....) and viewed lot's o' DIY Paint Correction Vids on youboob...
Better to spend a few hunnert $$$ letting a pro do it right the first time, unless you want to invest in a full time hobby (like Vidur)
I will, however, clay more frequently (twice a year) on my own now that the Speedy Surface Prep Towel makes such a quick and easy job of it.
Better to spend a few hunnert $$$ letting a pro do it right the first time, unless you want to invest in a full time hobby (like Vidur)
I will, however, clay more frequently (twice a year) on my own now that the Speedy Surface Prep Towel makes such a quick and easy job of it.
#26
I honestly don't think its too bad if you have the DIY attitude.
My regiment is wash once a week, wax every other month, clay and/or lite polish 2 to 3 times a year and do a full blown out correction once a year. I will spot correct here and there if I really can't bare with it but I haven't done that in a while as I am getting lazier and just live with the fact that shit happens.
My regiment is wash once a week, wax every other month, clay and/or lite polish 2 to 3 times a year and do a full blown out correction once a year. I will spot correct here and there if I really can't bare with it but I haven't done that in a while as I am getting lazier and just live with the fact that shit happens.
#28
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
In my experience...if you keep a decent coat of polymer wax on the car, it'll reflect so well that it'll make you focus more on the reflectivity and less on the surface dust. And this is from a NBP owner...
but yeah, if I wanted to be super critical, it sucks...best look on my car is park it in the shade ALWAYS.
but yeah, if I wanted to be super critical, it sucks...best look on my car is park it in the shade ALWAYS.
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