Acura 3.7L oil experiment UPDATE
 

Can't seem to find my original post, but for those who were following it, here is an update.

The following are my own experiences with my 2012 TL SH AWD.

To review:

This has the 3.7 L engine which is known for oil consumption issues.
For the first 49K I have used all manner of 5W-20 (the authorized NA spec) synthetic oil (Mobil 1, Redline, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra). Oil use has been 1 QT per 4K miles increasing to 1 QT per 2K miles. The dealer and Acura did an oil consumption test and deemed my car normal.

Changed the PCV valve and that reduced the oil consumption back to 1 QT per 4K (a story for another thread)

In researching this 3.7L engine, I noted that in the UK, Germany, Scandinavia and Australia the recommended viscosity is 0W-30 and 0W-40! I decided to do my own experiment and use 0W-40 Castrol Edge (German manufacture) and see what happened to oil consumption. I know it is still under warranty, etc so no chastisement, please.

So far, it is using oil at a rate of 1 QT per 8K miles!. Still early in the experiment so no conclusions yet. No changes in engine noise. This engine seems to run smooth and quiet on all oils. Remarkably, no change in fuel economy. Maybe the lower viscosity at start up makes up for the higher viscosity when warm.

I now have 3K miles on this oil change. Engine runs perfectly smooth and quiet. Oil consumption does not appear linear. The oil level is a little below the 1/2 way mark. I am estimating the end result will be closer to 1 QT per 5K miles. Big improvement over the start point but not as great as I was hoping. Will keep you updated at 4K. Stay tuned.

looking forward to results

I think the oil consumption among these cars (at least those that do consume oil) is dependent on temperature and driving conditions (highway vs. stop and go). And I agree, in my observations, it is not linear - probably dependent on the factors mentioned above, but I haven't gauged that closely enough to say.

The culprit may likely be due to the aluminum cylinder walls or bad rings but what I find curious now is that it's really hit or miss with SH-AWD owners and tends to favor those with a 6MT (though I haven't seen a poll confirming this position).

I know when rings are bad there can be oil burned due to blow by and if it isn't the rings but an incompatibility with the (aluminum) cylinder walls the blow by could be due to that. I think valve guides or seals can be ruled out because, though I'm assuming, the 3.5 use the same construction and those engines are not having the oil consumption issue. Though if anyone with a 3.7 and oil consumption problem has a compression test (which I also haven't seen) that's within spec then maybe the valves guides/seals aren't ruled out.

I know with a 6MT, you're more likely to downshift to engine brake and I wonder if the added engine vacuum due to engine braking combined with bad compression is the culprit of the consumption.

I'm still of the mind that the 5w20 is shearing in these motors. I've had a consumption test done and past with a score of "tech checked and it's at the same level" but by the end of the OCI, I will have added 2-3 quarts. This lends credence to your tactic of adding weight to the engine oil as a possible, albeit possibly short term, solution.

The mystery continues...

Aluminum cylinder walls... :facepalm:

Motorcycle engines, which generally turn much higher RPMs and are tuned to a higher state than our TLs, have used a similar manufacturing method for years. It's superior to iron cylinder walls in hardness, wear, weight and heat transfer.

Cylinder liners, to be clear.


"The 3.7L engine is even lighter than the 3.5-liter engine, due in part to the use of aluminum (rather than iron) cylinder liners."

2012 Acura TL - Powertrain - Honda.com

Is there a reason as to why those countries get a different viscosity recommendation?

Also, you think it'll be safe for somebody with a perfectly running 3.7 to switch to 0W-30 or 40?

5w20 is for fuel consumption.

I've been running motul 5w30 since my 2nd oil change (my first oil change was free from stealership). Don't have any issues. I'm at 104k km. Every 5k km, it burns from the top of the dipstick mark to about halfway down dipstick mark. So every 5k, I just pour in whatever was left over from the jug of motul from the last oil change, since i don't need to pour in the entire jug.

Here's the kicker, after i switched to Motul 5w30, i got better gas mileage then when i was running the dealer stuff. Not sure if they were putting in dino oil, or maybe the gas mileage just improves after 14k. But both my gas consumption and oil change interval improved after i switched. I can't say this will be true for everybody though.

Keep us updated OP and thanks for the post. I would also be curious to know how dirty the oil is when you change it.

If things continue to go well with you, I may decide to try OW-40 oil as well.

I actually got a new short block and the head re machined because mine was burning enough oil that smoke was visible under hard acceleration to someone behind me. In my case it was an issue with a valve seal and it only took two and a half years to get Acura to do something about it. And even then they fought back

No oil consumption here and i tell u when i drive it i get on it and no issue

subscribed

You guys use synthetic during the oil changes? And I can't lie been going to the stealership to do all my maintenance lol. A16 B wave the fu&*... But I never put synthetic in mines. Had to much bad experience with that in pass cars.

Synthetic Since day one on all my cars no issue

I was using 5W-30 last summer and actually experienced higher oil consumption. Went back to 5W-20 and oil consumption is tolerable.

OP, please keep us updated. I am new to the forums (first post, whoo!) and am curious to see the results. I bought a 2011 6MT back in Jan. at 43k miles, burning oil at a rate of 1Q/6K... Not terrible, but am looking for ways to remedy this.

Not to get on ur case but y are u going so high with ur oil even if its Synthetic oil ?

Following the maintenance minder, mainly. I check the dipstick regularly, and most of the miles are highway. My only reservation against changing it real quick, is that I'm not sure how the unscheduled change would interact with the MM. Does resetting oil life reset the MM for that service interval?

Just to clarify, the B1 service was done when I bought the car. I'm on ~6K since last change, not ~49K. I changed my last vehicle every 3 to 4K, but that was a 6.0L SUV. I'm new to the TL, so any suggestions and/or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Regular oil is 3000 miles everyone knows that with Synthetic oil i still dont let it pass 3000 miles but thats just me ....if i were u i wouldnt let it pass 5000 miles on Synthetic oil

This is what i use

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...695a7386b8.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...229b11e9d9.jpg

Very nice. Where can one pick up that specific Castrol? How does it compare to "Mobil 1 Advanced High Mileage Synthetic"? I currently have ~4Q of the latter sitting in the garage.

Let me tell u one thing i work at auto part store for 14 years now and i can tell u something with all confidence mobile one is garbage no oil can compare to castrol right now...I have tested this more than once specially on german cars BMW m3 and C63 amg Benz with mobile one same weight they will burn oil regular driving once we switched to castrol same weight no issue would only burn 1/4 of the oil it burned while using mobile one ......

So you don't follow the MID? Do you reset the MID every time you change the oil?

I find it curious when people have such short OCI. Most high quality oils don't start seriously degrading until well after 7-8k miles (which is usually where the MID falls for most owners). I could see if you're getting a lot of fuel dilution in your oil due to excessive idling during the winter but besides that, I don't see the point in such short OCIs.

Everyone does what they think its best im telling u from experience no oil can hold past 6k i tried just abut every oil on the market i have been doing this for over 14 years with my cars and cars from where i work i can assure u no oil can hold more then 6k i dont care what they claim or tell u on the bottle... Brand new 2015 m3 from dealer after 5k consumes oil but bmw tells u to change oil every 8k but if u change the oil b4 the 5k mark the motor will not consume oil how can that be possible? think about it bmw oil in the bottle said u can use the oil for 15k miles mobile one syntec but after 5k the car burns oil theres only one reason.. and that regular driving imagine if u get on the gas every time u drive it

none of my cars ever burned oil ever not my 14 awd or my 2008 type s or rl or any of my acura legend none of them ever burned oil

I know a lot of Subaru owners with turbo charged engines will not run Mobil 1 synthetic and most tuners do not recommend it because it tends to shear relatively quickly.

That said, not all Mobil 1 products are garbage. Mobil 1 High Mileage gets praise for its additive package.

I'm considering shorter OCI, too, because of oil consumption issues. I'm not criticizing, just curious. How do you handle the MID? I'm unclear as to how the MID recognizes a reset when it has 50-60% oil life. When you reset to 100% does it just reset the next OCI or does it reset other maintenance items?

That said all mobile one products are garbage i sell them i see the feedback i also see the difference with castrol products cant compare mobile one is not what it use to be that u guarantee you

Brand new x6 last year 7k on the clock consumed out mobile 5w30 syntec changed to castrol syntec 5w30 problem is gone plz tell me y that is ?

u use castrol syntec on ym tl and on my mdx and no isse people on thjis forum having issues with mobil one

I really don't want to get into a debate with you. I don't even use Mobil 1. I've been using Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil Ultra. Next I'll be using Castrol Edge. I'm not exactly sure why we're even talking about it.

As for your OCI, how are you or the dealer resetting the MID?

I do it myself i have the software

You use a scan tool or something? Do you know how, if at all, it affects other maintenance items in the MID? (i.e. by resetting the MID earlier and often does it reset other schedules in the MID or do those run independently)?

Only if u use the honda/acura software u can change it

I'm new here, I had an '00 Integra till some tool totaled it for me. Anyhow I'm considering buying a 4th gen 6MT TL like you fellas own, and is the oil burning more specific to manual transmission just on account of engine brake? Because nobody HAS to engine brake...

You're right, no one has to engine brake, but no one has to shift into neutral and free wheel to a stop, either. Alternatively, if I'm in 4th going approx. 40 mph and I see a red light ahead and I leave it in gear, what happens? Technically I'm engine braking. Closed throttle, partial vacuum, engine braking. I suppose the vacuum pressure is lower because the RPM isn't as high as if, say I downshifted to 3rd, but it's still engine braking. Also, even if there is vacuum pressure, why is oil spilling past the valves? Are the valves the problem? All the talk has been about the cylinder walls/liners.

if thats happening to ur car have it checked because i can assure u thats thats not happening to mine

Thanks, all. Some good info here. I'm gonna give Castrol a go next change. In the meantime, I'm gonna follow the MID, while keep an eye on the dipstick. From what I've read, resetting the MID ahead of the schedule throws the other intervals off. Not positive on that though.