2012 TL - Timing Chain or Timing Belt ?
#1
2012 TL - Timing Chain or Timing Belt ?
Just checking, as far as I know most new car has already have timing chain for better durability nowadays... What does TL have?
If it is a belt, at what miles they need to be replaced and what is the fee ?
If it is a belt, at what miles they need to be replaced and what is the fee ?
#2
Instructor
the TL uses timing belts.. im pretty sure all acuras beside the TSX uses timing belt.
timing belt is smoother than timing chain. you would have to replace the belt at 105k. and cost varies depending where you get it done at. usually 1k for oem parts
timing belt is smoother than timing chain. you would have to replace the belt at 105k. and cost varies depending where you get it done at. usually 1k for oem parts
#4
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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its 105Kmi or until your MID tells you, usually denoted with a "4".
60Kmi change for timing belt is ONLY for those driving in harsh super cold or super hot conditions on a regular basis. the majority fall under the 105K mi interval. unless there is something else in the 2012 manual that says otherwise.
you can get OEM parts for around $300. the labor is what will get you. TB with parts/labor and while you're in there change the water pump...over $1K at an acura dealer. honda dealers will often run specials for $7-800 for the same job.
60Kmi change for timing belt is ONLY for those driving in harsh super cold or super hot conditions on a regular basis. the majority fall under the 105K mi interval. unless there is something else in the 2012 manual that says otherwise.
you can get OEM parts for around $300. the labor is what will get you. TB with parts/labor and while you're in there change the water pump...over $1K at an acura dealer. honda dealers will often run specials for $7-800 for the same job.
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#8
#9
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Main seal goes around where the crank exists the block and mates up to the trans. While newer materials and better tolerances have made these last longer, any time I pull one of these apart to do tbelt/pump or any kind of motor swap, I inspect the seal between the trans and the block for any signs of fluid. If there's even a HINT - it's new main seal time.
#10
But that's at the other end of the engine from the belt. Plus you have to disconnect the transmission from the engine to get at the rear main seal. Why would you ever do that before there was a real problem?
#12
#13
Just some thoughts.
#14
At least you may want to remove the covers and inspect the belt after 4-5 years. If it shows signs of oil or coolant contamination then its time to replace regardless. If it is hard as a rock and not soft enough, thats signs of trouble. Means it has swallowed a lot of water or oil and it may snap. Also, regardless of miles you may want to temporarily remove it from the pulleys to be able to hand-rotate the water pump pulley and see if it freely rotates or stumbles somewhere. Thats also not good news.
Just some thoughts.
Just some thoughts.
#15
Oh! Good to know. I am probably going to change mine by the end of the summer and I may have a few questions. The process in the shop manual appears to be the same as any other J engine. But, I do remember when I removed the timing belt from my old 03 Accord (J30A4), the rear cam pulley turned to the left and I had to remove the intake manifold and rear valve cover to get to the rocker arm shaft and loosen up that to move the pulley back to top dead center. I wonder if the same happens with the J37A4 engines? I was told this is not happening on the MDX J35 ones. Thats a lot of work btw.
#16
Senior Moderator
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#17
Senior Moderator
At least you may want to remove the covers and inspect the belt after 4-5 years. If it shows signs of oil or coolant contamination then its time to replace regardless. If it is hard as a rock and not soft enough, thats signs of trouble. Means it has swallowed a lot of water or oil and it may snap. Also, regardless of miles you may want to temporarily remove it from the pulleys to be able to hand-rotate the water pump pulley and see if it freely rotates or stumbles somewhere. Thats also not good news.
Just some thoughts.
Just some thoughts.
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#18
Senior Moderator
Oh! Good to know. I am probably going to change mine by the end of the summer and I may have a few questions. The process in the shop manual appears to be the same as any other J engine. But, I do remember when I removed the timing belt from my old 03 Accord (J30A4), the rear cam pulley turned to the left and I had to remove the intake manifold and rear valve cover to get to the rocker arm shaft and loosen up that to move the pulley back to top dead center. I wonder if the same happens with the J37A4 engines? I was told this is not happening on the MDX J35 ones. Thats a lot of work btw.
#19
But the biggest challenge actually was to remove that crank pulley bolt. After trying with cheater bar and that crank tool and my own air impact tools... I just drove to a mechanic and asked him to remove it, lube it and put it back on so I can get back home and do the rest. His impact wrench had over 1,000 ft/lb torque so that did the trick, but he had to try and try again too.
#20
Senior Moderator
I tried. Too much worried not to break anything. Actually its a good thing I removed the covers and gave her a good valve lash adjustment too (my back hurt for weeks after that day!). Also you should have seen how badly clogged with carbs the EGR passage was in the manifold of a 6 year old J30A4 with 160k km on.
But the biggest challenge actually was to remove that crank pulley bolt. After trying with cheater bar and that crank tool and my own air impact tools... I just drove to a mechanic and asked him to remove it, lube it and put it back on so I can get back home and do the rest. His impact wrench had over 1,000 ft/lb torque so that did the trick, but he had to try and try again too.
But the biggest challenge actually was to remove that crank pulley bolt. After trying with cheater bar and that crank tool and my own air impact tools... I just drove to a mechanic and asked him to remove it, lube it and put it back on so I can get back home and do the rest. His impact wrench had over 1,000 ft/lb torque so that did the trick, but he had to try and try again too.
The starter method works great for breaking that bolt free.
#23
Instructor
But anyways back to the topic at hand
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#24
The consensus is???
I have an 09 TL .. roughly 53k miles. Time belt change?? yes? no? Water pump? yes? no? How about plugs??? Cost estmiate is......????
Does anyone know if the dirver seat can be changed to a more recent year model??
Thank you all..
Does anyone know if the dirver seat can be changed to a more recent year model??
Thank you all..
#25
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^timing belt's are changed at about 105k, when your on board computer flashes a '4'
you, sir, have a LONG way too go.
if you're wondering, I only have 69k miles on my 2006 TL and will not change the timing belt until a '4' flashes on my dash.
at my current pace, it will take a long time to reach 105k....
you, sir, have a LONG way too go.
if you're wondering, I only have 69k miles on my 2006 TL and will not change the timing belt until a '4' flashes on my dash.
at my current pace, it will take a long time to reach 105k....
#26
In the 09 TL Manual
Replace spark plugs...Replace timing belt and inspect water pump
If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over 110°F, 43°C), or in very low temperatures (under 20°F, 29°C), replace every 60,000 miles (U.S.)/ 100,000 km (Canada). Inspect valve clearance
If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over 110°F, 43°C), or in very low temperatures (under 20°F, 29°C), replace every 60,000 miles (U.S.)/ 100,000 km (Canada). Inspect valve clearance
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#27
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^it is very unlikely that your car went under those EXTREME conditions.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
#28
Instructor
Since they are a rubber-based product, age deterioration (ozone) will eventually get it if you don't run the miles out on it first. Also as another poster commented, Honda dealers are equally qualified to do the job and quite often offer discounts you won't find at your Acura dealer. - - always, always replace the water pump while you're that far torn down.
#29
Instructor
^it is very unlikely that your car went under those EXTREME conditions.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
I live in Texas where the temps can reach 110 degrees on a daily basis during the summer months.
but, I have no worries for my 2006, as it does not see EXTREME temps.
i can assure you, your car hasnt seen extreme temps on a daily basis.
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