You don't know if the '04 - '06 pads will fit the '07 - '08 TL Type S calipers.

You are speculating that they might.

It is unscrupulous to attempt to sell a product to someone else based on the speculation that it MIGHT fit.

I will buy replacement pads when I am CERTAIN they will fit.

 

Yes HD Anyone with an air gun and floor jack can have the wheel off in seconds flat
Then ping ping out go the pins- a litle nudge with the brake tool to get some wiggle room for the pads- flip tool around and insert in holes on pad top- depress and lever to remove pads- turn on digital dial calipers- measure back to back- measure thickness

Thats all I said about 5 minutes- remove and inspect 1 side of the car

For track quick change during an endurance race- we prep all the parts and have them bundled with the tools needed

 

Throw up a post claiming that you can perform the complete job in "5 minutes."

It takes at least 10 minutes just to locate the tools, open the pad's box and jack the car up.

"Prepping parts" and "bundling tools" requires time. You need to add that to your estimate in order to determine the TOTAL time for the job.

 

I'm sorry but here is where ignorance needs to be exposed. This is a forum. Just in case you didn't know here is the definition of a forum.

American Heritage Dictionary - Cite This Source - Share This fo·rum (fτr'əm, fōr'-) Pronunciation Key
n. pl. fo·rums also fo·ra (fτr'ə, fōr'ə)

a. The public square or marketplace of an ancient Roman city that was the assembly place for judicial activity and public business.
b. A public meeting place for open discussion.
c. A medium for open discussion or voicing of ideas, such as a newspaper, a radio or television program, or a website.

A question was posed. I gave an answer. It was a discussion, not a sales pitch or thread. I didn't say buy them from me. I didn't offer to send them to you and give you any sort of discount. I didn't sell them to anyone nor have I asked anyone to try them for me. I'm not going to sell them to anyone until I know they fit. How integrity comes into play in offering insight I don't know, but being that this seems to be the beginning of a diatribe directed at me (since I am now lacking in integrity b/c I gave evidence and proved you wrong on multiple points) I am going to leave this thread and no longer post in it. You are not worth my time.

 

You haven't proved me wrong on ANY point.

All you have done is provide SPECULATION.

SPECULATION is free. Actual parts cost money and it's even worse when they don't fit.

 

Then don't fucking buy them!!!!!!!!! Why are you still arguing?
Don't buy them.
They don't work.
You are the most knowledgeable.
You win.
Camaros and Mullets Rock!

 

Actually I figured it out. He just wants to hear he is right. He knows he is not and so does everyone else, but he has to feel he is right.

LOL on the Camaros and mullets.

 

I posted again in this thread b/c I would just like to say that my insight into this matter proved true. I was going through one of my brake catalogs and the pads are listed as fitting the 04-07 TL and TL-S w/ Brembo front calipers.

I believe harddrivin1le has been

 

HD If you are going to spend your saturday quoting people- then get it right!
I said:
"5 minutes, I could have the wheel off and the pads out- its that easy, I know because I have done it on race cars and 05 TL 6MT"

What part of that you took to mean complete brake job- I never said that- only remove 1 wheel and inspect to see if the pads will fit.

Now Josh - a recognized vendor has found the info in a new listing- what a surprise
Will you all just buy the pads and be happy!

You know- its one thing to be a pain in the azz on occassion- its another to stalk the threads looking for something to bitch about for no reason
I still dont get why you pay half price? Some sort of royal entitlement ?

 

Excellerate,
sorry I have a headache and can't go back through the thread.......How much are the pads?
Will I see a reduction in the amount of brake dust?
Will the performance of the brakes be better with these pads?

I had some Hawk pads on my (gulp) Camaro SS that I enjoyed

 

The real question is, "WILL THEY FIT?"

 

ceramic pads dust less than ferro-metal compounds, which dust about the same as OE pads but work better
Brake dust is a byproduct of friction which dissolves bits of the pad via heat and flings off tiny red hot bits of pad material onto the rims, which then act like dust magnets for road debis, rubber, grit etc

The best defense is 3 coats of synthetic car wax- your choice of brand (carnuba wont take hi temps) on the rims inside and out. Then its just wash the wheels with the car instead of wipe the rims every day.

 

Ha...
As stated in my other thread, that's not the arguement I made, but in your quest to be right, you wouldn't acknowledge it. That's OK though, cause I'm so ignorant I'm blissful.

 

OF COURSE IT'S THE ARGUMENT YOU MADE.

And you were WRONG.

Spring pre-load does NOTHING but set ride height. Period. In no way does it impact effective springs rate.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=70

Your exact quotes:

"Preloaded springs are just that, preloaded... load them more with the weight of the car and it takes even more energy to make the spring conmpress (energy generated by weight of car + energy required to overcome preload)... Thus a preloaded spring with a lesser spring constant could be stiffer than an unloaded spring with a higher spring constant. this is why preloading RAISES a car's ride height. The suspension isn't getting physically taller, the spring is getting physically more difficult to compress."

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...4&postcount=91

"Preload is an way to compensate for applications where slight variances in multiple application spring rate is acceptable, provided the dampening can be adjusted to compensate. This is common industry practice across ALL coilover manufacturers"

Those statements are factually false.



This is THE TRUTH:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.../faqsprings.htm

"Most height adjustable systems use a threaded sleeve on the outside of the strut or shock body to lower or raise the base height of the coil. Because the other end of the spring is held by the shock or strut, changing the height of the spring seat acts to increase or decrease the pre-load on the spring. Because the weight of the car remains the same, this has the effect of changing the ride height...

The important point to note is that you don't change the actual rate of the spring by changing the seat height position. In the case of raising the springs seat, we simply force it higher up its rate curve, which means the weight of the car will not deflect the spring as far resulting in a higher ride height...

We believe that using the term "spring pre-load" is a bit of a misnomer and is misleading. Its important to note that changing the height of the spring platform does effect the spring load at full droop, but when the car is on the ground (suspension loaded) the total spring load for all 4 springs is the same, it cannot change. The spring rate remains the same, it too cannot change. The only thing that can change is the ride height."

 

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_9510_tech/

"When you tighten the adjusting collar on a shock or increase the preload length by tightening the adjuster on the fork, you are indeed increasing the initial force exerted by the springs. This decreases sag, making the bike ride higher. It does not, however, increase the spring rate."


http://www.roadracers.co.uk/suspension.htm

"Preload controls ride height. It does not make the suspension harder or softer."



http://www.deycore.com/qa.htm

"Changing the spring preload does not change spring rate. The preload setting mainly affects the sack or ride in height of the suspension. Manufacturer's often tout this as a feature of suspension adjustment (they sometimes call it "3 way" or "5 way") but in reality the preload setting can only do so much. Although the preload will compensate for rider weight somewhat, it can't compare with getting the spring rate dialed in."

 

I read the entire first page and then I stopped at the middle of the second page. However I will be ordering a set of Hawk Pads as I already have 15,000 miles on my 07 TL-S and the brakes are squealing. It doesn't help that I'm pushing 19" rims and I tracked my car twice. I will place an order today and then do the install later this week.

 

Cool, please let us know how it works out.

 

Please let us know if they fit.

I will order a set the day I'm certain they fit.

 

THANK YOU.


Now, can one of the mods change his S/N to hardheadd1le?

Seriously man, go fire up some kenny g or something and chill.

</threadjack>

 

Will he be charged double when someone else tries them and they fit perfect?

 

BTW, if you have ever driven a car with preloaded springs in it you'd know that it certainly does increase the stiffness of the suspension. The rate does not change, no...but when compressed a lot the spring loses its ability to compress further and FEELS stiffer. While the rating of the spring does not change, the spring compressive force increases to infinity the tighter the coils get.

The weight of the car is constant too, but when the car goes over bumps the down travel force is greater than the gravitational force of the car alone. This is why the car sags down to a point and then rests. If the spring rate were too light the car would sag to the ground.

The fact that the car sags under gravitational force, then holds, and compresses more when more force is added through momentum of suspension movement suggests that as the delta-L of the spring increases, so does the force needed to maintain the rate of delta-L. Therefore, as the spring compresses, more and more force is needed to maintain the compression rate.

By preloading the spring you are "presagging" the car, thus when you drop the car it does not sag under its own weight. Practically speaking, you have done the same as installing a spring of higher rate. Thus, preloading the springs has the same effect as installing stiffer one, even though the rate of the spring will not specifically change.

You are both right.

Marcus

 

Hey ASSCLOWN.

How have I been "had?"

I never once stated that the '04 - '06 would NOT fit the TL-S. I merely suggested that there was enough reason for doubt to prevent me from purchasing the pads until I saw it in print.

And I still haven't seen it in print...

 

There may be SOME truth in that with a variable rate spring.

The Tein springs in question weren't variable rate.

And what do you mean by "when compressed a lot?" Most people don't equate spring pre-load with "a lot."

 

Was killing time and found this hope it helps

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...0536QQtcZphoto

 

Well- there you have it from an Acura dealer selling parts online- 04-07s fits - same pad- doesnt say anything about check you VIN - just buy it now!

 

If you notice at the bottom, the dealer posted the part number for the 2007 TL-S, 45022-SEP-A60, when he said they fit all years, and not the part number for the 04-06 TL 6sp, 45022-SEP-A52.

This could be an improved formulation, or it could be a different manufacturer. or it could be a completely different size or configuration. I called my local dealer to see if the 45022-SEP-A52 was replaced by the 45022-SEP-A60, but as of this time it hasn't been so they should be considered as two separate and distinct parts.

I have read, with great effort and amazement, this entire thread so far, and it seems as if it consists of one person obstinately but correctly arguing that there is no proof, except the fact that some suppliers are selling them as if they are, that they are all interchangeable, one person stating they might be and not claiming that they definitely are, one person defending, perhaps excessively, the vendor, and a number of people offering various comments.

I don't want to close this thread at this time, but will if this keeps up. All that needs to be said has been said about the interchangeability issue, over and over, so until someone has irrefutable proof that all are, or are not, interchangeable, meaning hands-on and actual testing or a statement by Honda Corporation, let's table this matter.

 

^ THANK YOU! I'm trying to figure out what pads to buy for my 07 TL-S and with all the bickering it seems to have gotten way off target.

Well Said, Ron! Finally someone with power has spoken :o )

 

42k out of my first set of Brembos. No need to look for something other than OE as the Brembo is argueably the best set up for the TL and I don't really mind the brake dust. It does wash off pretty easy.

 

If you have never tried other brands on your particular car, you have no idea what stopping power or dust factor they have
Good stopping creates dust
No doubt- the OE pads are good all around pads AND the aftermarket- which makes its living on selling parts BETTER than OE, will usually provide better
Hawk- Rotora- StopTech- all good brands

I trust our vendors and look forward to the member who bought a set and is going to report for all to know

3 coats of synthetic car wax on the rims does a great job of keeping brake dust to a minimum and makes for easy cleaning

 

Since when was Brembo considered OE quality. It's always been a premium upgrade and available from the auto manufacturers on very few vehicles.

 

When Brembos are the stock setup on a car- I would consider them to be OE
Anything OE has to strike a compromise between the types of buyers of the car
So, some aftermarket brands may be better - for the performance oriented driver~

You like you dealer pads- use them- I am not saying anything against them.
There are options, and my point was with you claiming OE best there is-based on mileage and unknown driving style/conditions
I know members in my town with 6MT/Brembos- switched to Rotora slotted rotors and rotora ceramic pads. Found better bite in the brakes and less dusting overall
When we pulled those OE brake pads at 25k miles- there was plenty of meat left on them so getting more miles is realistic.
Brake life seems to have a relation to age

 

I have almost 20K on my pads and the stock pads seem to be holding up quite well. I still have alot of life left on them, but I think i'm just going to replace them with the same pads. I'll wait till spring when I do my wheels and teins to invest in the slotted rotors and high performance pads.

 

01, I think you missing the point. Honda took a chance that they don't normally take and put a superior brake system on the MT as well as a few other goodies for their target MT crowd. If they would have used the same oe no name brakes on the MT as they did on the AT I'm sure many would be talking about how great it would be to install a Brembo kit.

How many other cars in Honda got this special treatment? Not many if any.

 

"Special treatment?"

Don't make me laugh.

A $39,000, 3,600 pound Acura TL-S uses SMALLER rotors than a $23K, 3,100 pound Nissan Sentra and a $24K, 3,200 pound Mazda 3.

The fact that they're "Brembo" calipers means NOTHING in terms of actual stopping power.

This car would stop MUCH better (and with less noise) if it used decent, no name, twin piston sliding calipers (much less expensive), the Acura RL's 12.6" F and 12.2" R rotors and somewhat less aggressive pads. The total cost to Acura would actually be slightly LESS!

But then the sales literature wouldn't say "Brembo," so sales would probably suffer. The fact that the car that I just described would stop better while making less noise and brake dust wouldn't matter - to most.

 

Can they replace them (pads) under warranty if they are worn too quick?For no charge?I want in...keep us posted..

 

I know the newer Odyssey's have twin piston brakes! BTW I just ordered the Hawk Pads today and I will either install them on Thursday or Sunday.

 

Are the Type S rotors the same as the rotors on the 04-06 MT?

I'm not sure why all the complaints with the noise I've yet to hear my 04 make any noise

 

My TL-S breaks are quiet as a church mouse. 6,500 miles, totally stock. In every day city/highway mixed driving, they stop better than anything I've ever owned. Quiet too. I think driving style has a lot to do with some of the "groaning" noises.

Here's some info on the effectiveness of the OE Brembo Set Up:

60 – 0 Emergency Stopping is OUTSTANDING compared to a WIDE VARIETY of modern sports sedans, regardless of market segment.

Acura TL-S 60 – 0 = 117 ft

EXCEPT for the BMW 330i, that’s best out of 25 cars with similar straight line performance.

Make & Model…………………........ 60 - 0
BMW 330i………………………......... 116
Acura TL-S…………………......… 117
BMW 335i………………………......... 119
Infinity G35 Sport……………....…. 120
Volkswagon GTI………………....... 120
Mazda MazdaSpeed6………….... 121
Audi A4 2.0T Quattro…………..... 122
BMW 545i………………………......... 121
Mini Cooper S…………………........ 122
Volvo S80 V8 AWD……………...... 123
Lexus GS430………………….......… 126
BMW 325xi……………………........… 123
Subaru Impreza WRX………….... 124
Lexus IS250 AWD……………....… 125
Lexus IS350……………………........ 126
Acura RL…………………….........…… 126
Subaru Legacy 2.5GT spec.B… 126
Infinity G35x……………………........ 127
Toyota Camry SE V6…………...... 127
Lexus IS350……………………........ 128
Mercedes-Benz E350 Sport….. 129
Volvo S40 T5 AWD……………...... 130
Dodge Charger R/T……………..... 132
Mercedes-Benz C350 Sport….. 135
Lexus LS460……………………....... 143


But wait, that’s not all. Against the same group of cars, the TL is WELL INSIDE the top 1/3 in stopping distances from 80 – 0 and at 214 ft SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER THAN AVERAGE.

 

Thanks to LE1, I understand the importance of Swept Area per Ton.





The Swept Area per Ton on the TL-S is ABOVE AVERAGE for cars with similar straight line performance, regardless of price.

TL-S = 273 sq. in.
Avg (16 Sport Sedans, incl Audi, BMW, MB, Lexus, Infiniti, etc, etc) = 270 sq in.


So I'd have to say that Acura did a pretty good job with the Brembo "compromise".

Although, I agree, a bigger set of rotors *would* have looked better.






They would have looked HOT! ....... Slotted or Drilled, even better. 2x