TL RSB vs Progress RSB still on base suspension
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
TL RSB vs Progress RSB still on base suspension
Sup guys,
a while ago I've been doing some research on purchasing a rear sway bar since it's noted acurazine's top mods done to suspension and handling. I've been thinking about investing in progress, however, I am still on stock suspension and have not replaced the front bar so I'm curious that a 24mm rsb may be too thick and be dangerous in driving. In addition, may lead to cracked mounts.
Would this be a better option?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-gen...roductid=65870
Also, if I do happen to be "safe" with buying a progress rear sway bar, is everything included with
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/progress-...roductid=40000
because I remember reading a post a while back about some bushings from some "e" company i think lol idk my memory is bad. But anyway, is the progress supplied endlinks would be sufficient?
Thanks for the help!
a while ago I've been doing some research on purchasing a rear sway bar since it's noted acurazine's top mods done to suspension and handling. I've been thinking about investing in progress, however, I am still on stock suspension and have not replaced the front bar so I'm curious that a 24mm rsb may be too thick and be dangerous in driving. In addition, may lead to cracked mounts.
Would this be a better option?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-gen...roductid=65870
Also, if I do happen to be "safe" with buying a progress rear sway bar, is everything included with
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/progress-...roductid=40000
because I remember reading a post a while back about some bushings from some "e" company i think lol idk my memory is bad. But anyway, is the progress supplied endlinks would be sufficient?
Thanks for the help!
#2
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
I bought the tl progress rsb and it fit my 01 cls which had a weak ass rsb. It Comes with everything u need to do the install. But sometimes getting the end links to unbolt is a no go and u need new links..
When I did the rsb it was the single most effective suspension mod I have done. i did the front sway bar a year later to balance things out a bit and have done coilovers and blah blah. Sway bar was the best for the buck I spent
When I did the rsb it was the single most effective suspension mod I have done. i did the front sway bar a year later to balance things out a bit and have done coilovers and blah blah. Sway bar was the best for the buck I spent
The following 3 users liked this post by CL-S progression 01:
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
whats up man!?
the Progress RSB was one of my first suspension mods, and man do i love it!
daily driving is improved with the P.RSB.
before, switching lanes felt like the car was loose and a little sloppy.
the P.RSB tightened up a simple task like switching lanes.
it's also very forgiving when driving easy. taking turns normally is tightened and more precise. and its only when you push the car hard through a corner is when the fun begins. I love making the back end swing out!!
Let's address your next concern; the cracked mounts.
you have to understand that this bar is under a lot of pressure. you'll figure that out when you uninstall the stock bar a simple task of removing the bar is made difficult because its very taught, but I digress.
when one side of the car is up in the air; via going over bumps unevenly, the bar stresses the mount.
to solve this; drive evenly over bumps.
the stock type-s bar is another viable option if you were on a budget, as it cost significantly less than the P.RSB
but you wont have as much fun with the stock type-s bar
and yes, that you link you provided has all the things included.
however, if your endlinks are rusty and you cant get them off with allen key and wrench, sometimes you'll have to just cut it.
so, maybe you'll need new endlinks.
the Progress RSB was one of my first suspension mods, and man do i love it!
daily driving is improved with the P.RSB.
before, switching lanes felt like the car was loose and a little sloppy.
the P.RSB tightened up a simple task like switching lanes.
it's also very forgiving when driving easy. taking turns normally is tightened and more precise. and its only when you push the car hard through a corner is when the fun begins. I love making the back end swing out!!
Let's address your next concern; the cracked mounts.
you have to understand that this bar is under a lot of pressure. you'll figure that out when you uninstall the stock bar a simple task of removing the bar is made difficult because its very taught, but I digress.
when one side of the car is up in the air; via going over bumps unevenly, the bar stresses the mount.
to solve this; drive evenly over bumps.
the stock type-s bar is another viable option if you were on a budget, as it cost significantly less than the P.RSB
but you wont have as much fun with the stock type-s bar
and yes, that you link you provided has all the things included.
however, if your endlinks are rusty and you cant get them off with allen key and wrench, sometimes you'll have to just cut it.
so, maybe you'll need new endlinks.
The following users liked this post:
TL BPJ (08-19-2014)
#4
Safety Car
iTrader: (7)
5 months into owning my car I upgraded my stock sway bar for the Progress. I'm coming up on 4 years of owning the car and still have stock front sway bar and stock front strut tower brace and have 0 problems.
The best thing about the Progress sway bar is that it's adjustable. There are 2 holes on each end for you to attach it to your end link.
Since June of 2011 I installed the bar on the softest setting which is using the 2 mounting bolts furthest out towards the end of the bar.
About 2 months ago I removed the bar to apply grease to the bushings and decided to mount it on the "stiff" setting which is the 2 holes closest to the center of the bar.
That made a HUGE difference and I'm still enjoying it. I can't believe I drove over 3 years on the soft setting. I was definitely missing out.
#5
Good to know I can use this bar without negatively effecting the handling on stock suspension. I was looking for something to take the boat-ish handling away from curves.
BTW, I looked up the price just in case the endlinks don't come off and they are pretty cheap, $15 a piece. I might just replace them so I'll have 0 mileage endlinks instead of ones with 115,000 on them. Also I cross-referenced the type-s endlinks and the base and they are the same part number. I was wondering if the type-s used stiffer materials for a sportier feel, they are exactly the same.
Thanks for the info.
BTW, I looked up the price just in case the endlinks don't come off and they are pretty cheap, $15 a piece. I might just replace them so I'll have 0 mileage endlinks instead of ones with 115,000 on them. Also I cross-referenced the type-s endlinks and the base and they are the same part number. I was wondering if the type-s used stiffer materials for a sportier feel, they are exactly the same.
Thanks for the info.
Last edited by Darren's TL; 08-20-2014 at 12:05 AM.
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
I have the progress bar on the soft setting too. Im not going to be putting it on stiff because the risk of cracking the subframe is too great. I dont believe the extra bit of fun during a turn is worth the crack.
#7
Is this common knowledge/problem? Seems like it would have to be an extreme situation to crack something designed to be that strong. I'm pretty new here so I don't know tons about this car yet.
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#8
Never mind I found a few threads on it. it seems that some people said using a type s front strut bar will reduce the stress on the rear subframe bracket through reduced body roll. Some are having a piece of square stock welded onto the bracket and sub frame to reinforce it.
I think I'm going to end up doing both of these things.
I think I'm going to end up doing both of these things.
#9
Team Owner
My 6mt had the Progress RSB on it when I bought the car. Turns out the previous owner must have gone over some bumps at an angle because one of my brackets where the end link connects to on the passenger side was snapped clean off.
Luckily, the bracket that broke is bolted to the rear suspension bits and was easily replaceable. The bracket was only 15 bucks from Acura. It's like Acura anticipated this could be a potential weak point and designed the bracket to give before the subframe.
I looked at my subframe from all angles and see no signs of fatigue. Hope it stays that way.
Luckily, the bracket that broke is bolted to the rear suspension bits and was easily replaceable. The bracket was only 15 bucks from Acura. It's like Acura anticipated this could be a potential weak point and designed the bracket to give before the subframe.
I looked at my subframe from all angles and see no signs of fatigue. Hope it stays that way.
#10
Racer
iTrader: (1)
If I remember correctly from a lot of thread about the progress rear swaybar; if you have Automatic then set to soft, if you have Manual or Type S then set to Stiff. This balance and bring to neutral state and to avoid the stress on the rear subframe.
I bought the rear type s swaybar to my 05 Aspec AT and it suck ball and I would have gotten the progress rear swaybar.
I bought the rear type s swaybar to my 05 Aspec AT and it suck ball and I would have gotten the progress rear swaybar.
#12
All Around Klown
as far as swapping different year parts... the mounting holes for the 04-06 front sway bar end links are smaller than the mounting holes for the 07-08 end links...
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