For those with Megans, do you have this problem?
#1
For those with Megans, do you have this problem?
Megans were installed last week and everything is perfect expect I hear a loud clunking noise (metal on metal) from the rears only when hitting decent size bumps/potholes at speeds over 20mph.
I did a little research and found on some other forums that a few people solved this issue by tightening the 17mm nut underneath the damper adjustment knob. Some said to tighten it with 1/2" impact gun and others said not to over-tighten it. Which is it? Im calling Megan in the morning since they are closed on sundays to see what they say.
I put a ratchet on the 17mm nut and it spins with a little effort. You need a wrench on the nut and an allen key on top of the bolt to tighten it. Just wondering if anyone has these clunking issues?
I did a little research and found on some other forums that a few people solved this issue by tightening the 17mm nut underneath the damper adjustment knob. Some said to tighten it with 1/2" impact gun and others said not to over-tighten it. Which is it? Im calling Megan in the morning since they are closed on sundays to see what they say.
I put a ratchet on the 17mm nut and it spins with a little effort. You need a wrench on the nut and an allen key on top of the bolt to tighten it. Just wondering if anyone has these clunking issues?
#4
Three Wheelin'
Well first things first I would obviously check the tightness. It could also be you might have gotten a defective batch and Megan will usually warranty that. Is the clunnk coming from all 4 or just one or two of the suspension pieces? Also are you sure EVERYTHING on the suspension is retightened? Might be a stupid question but sometimes people forget.
#5
Well first things first I would obviously check the tightness. It could also be you might have gotten a defective batch and Megan will usually warranty that. Is the clunnk coming from all 4 or just one or two of the suspension pieces? Also are you sure EVERYTHING on the suspension is retightened? Might be a stupid question but sometimes people forget.
#6
I have a clunking noise when going over decent size bumps as well from my rears. It's been there since I installed them. I made sure everything was tightened when I installed them over a year ago. The noise hasn't gotten any louder. I guess I never really thought much of it. Let me know if tightening those 17mm nuts do anything.
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#9
I have a clunking noise when going over decent size bumps as well from my rears. It's been there since I installed them. I made sure everything was tightened when I installed them over a year ago. The noise hasn't gotten any louder. I guess I never really thought much of it. Let me know if tightening those 17mm nuts do anything.
Megan said it could be the control arms hitting something but its not that. I had someone drive the car and I left my hand on the damper nut and it goes up and down over bumps and its smacking onto metal of the car. I also set the rears to full stiff and aimed for some potholes and the noise was still there so its not the control arms
The tech at Megan said to tighten that bolt below the damper adjustment with a 1/2" impact gun. You have to remove the rear deck/shelf in order to get on top of those bolts. The shelf is in my living room right now so Im gonna try with the impact gun tomorrow. Now is a good time to make those holes in the shelf so I could install those Megan damper knob extensions. We need the 110MM size just and FYI.
As far as the end links, I guess its possible but one of the end-links is brand new so I dont really know. They are bolted very tight. Are you suggesting the end-links are hitting something?
#11
The wrench and the allen key didnt work. I tried to brace the allen key onto the metal part of the car and turn the bolt with the wrench but the allen key wound up bending the metal of the car lol. Vise grips didnt work either.
Megan said it could be the control arms hitting something but its not that. I had someone drive the car and I left my hand on the damper nut and it goes up and down over bumps and its smacking onto metal of the car. I also set the rears to full stiff and aimed for some potholes and the noise was still there so its not the control arms
The tech at Megan said to tighten that bolt below the damper adjustment with a 1/2" impact gun. You have to remove the rear deck/shelf in order to get on top of those bolts. The shelf is in my living room right now so Im gonna try with the impact gun tomorrow. Now is a good time to make those holes in the shelf so I could install those Megan damper knob extensions. We need the 110MM size just and FYI.
As far as the end links, I guess its possible but one of the end-links is brand new so I dont really know. They are bolted very tight. Are you suggesting the end-links are hitting something?
Megan said it could be the control arms hitting something but its not that. I had someone drive the car and I left my hand on the damper nut and it goes up and down over bumps and its smacking onto metal of the car. I also set the rears to full stiff and aimed for some potholes and the noise was still there so its not the control arms
The tech at Megan said to tighten that bolt below the damper adjustment with a 1/2" impact gun. You have to remove the rear deck/shelf in order to get on top of those bolts. The shelf is in my living room right now so Im gonna try with the impact gun tomorrow. Now is a good time to make those holes in the shelf so I could install those Megan damper knob extensions. We need the 110MM size just and FYI.
As far as the end links, I guess its possible but one of the end-links is brand new so I dont really know. They are bolted very tight. Are you suggesting the end-links are hitting something?
#12
So I ended up trying to tighten the damper nut with a 1/2" impact gun like the tech from megan said and it didnt solve the clunking issue. The nut actually didnt get any tighter. It just spun. I tried a allen key socket on a 1/2'' drive with a 17mm wrench on the damper nut and it seemed like it got a little tighter but I wound up twisting the allen key head.
Now sometimes I hear a weird noise coming from the passenger side rear coilover at random times. Sorta sounds like a spring contracting...like a ping noise if that makes sense.
So in conclusion, Im out of ideas and im getting tired of driving around with no rear seat and shelf. If anyone else can figure it out please let me know
#13
I went to see if I could tighten the 2 14mm nuts on top of the pillowball mount any more then I could previously. Without using ALL my strength, I think each nut turned another full rotation. maybe the nut is slowing coming lose? I have no idea. maybe some locktite
#15
I never actually fixed the problem. I dont even notice it anymore. It seems to only happen over big bumps.
With that being said....after much searching and talking to megan racing a few times, we both think the problem is the noise prevention cushion. Megan said that the cushion can get wore down and your left with metal on metal friction.
In my case this noise has been happening since day 1 so theres no way the cushion could be worn out. Megan suggested that it was possible that the cushion was never installed in the first place and many times people use 2 cushions instead of 1. They said they have reports of people with 1 cushion still experiencing "clunking" issues.
Ive tried everything else to eliminate the noise besides disassembling the coilover to check for a damaged cushion and double them up. At this point in time I dont plan to do this
With that being said....after much searching and talking to megan racing a few times, we both think the problem is the noise prevention cushion. Megan said that the cushion can get wore down and your left with metal on metal friction.
In my case this noise has been happening since day 1 so theres no way the cushion could be worn out. Megan suggested that it was possible that the cushion was never installed in the first place and many times people use 2 cushions instead of 1. They said they have reports of people with 1 cushion still experiencing "clunking" issues.
Ive tried everything else to eliminate the noise besides disassembling the coilover to check for a damaged cushion and double them up. At this point in time I dont plan to do this
#18
KoolKatz..
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I don't think it's the Megans...the RSX forum thingy was on a previous version and Megans has gotten better....I think I know what your talking about (clunking in rear) and have the same noise in left rear and right rear more noise then left. I took everyting apart to retighten 3 times seats, wheels etc. It's annoying I felt like something was loose or broken and didn't feel safe.
In the end after many reasearch I found out that it was then ENDLINKS..the lolipop looking thingy, (mine is still stock) I tighten both ends and made sure the one connected to the rear swaybar was Super tight to the point of stripping the allenwrench socket (make sure you use correct size) to prevent stripping. Also I loosen the sway rubbers to like 12-15lbs of torque and extra lube. It has basically has removed 99.5% of the clunk esp. when I'm running stock (17" rims) but I still get that clunk...but BARELY when I'm running my (19" wheels)
I apologize if I'm confusing you but this is just food for thought info hope that helps. I did in first thought is was %100 Megan but turn out it was NOT in my situation. Rear Swaybar and endlinks tightening made a difference. The progess sway bar helped with the clunks too.(sold it but running stock 20mm swaybar). Overall I've re-tighten endlinks and extra greased and loosen the C-clamps things....oh yeah its called the bushing..(4 nuts holding swaybar) Loosening it and not overtighten the middle area gives it some play. Good luck I know that Clunk is annoying.
In the end after many reasearch I found out that it was then ENDLINKS..the lolipop looking thingy, (mine is still stock) I tighten both ends and made sure the one connected to the rear swaybar was Super tight to the point of stripping the allenwrench socket (make sure you use correct size) to prevent stripping. Also I loosen the sway rubbers to like 12-15lbs of torque and extra lube. It has basically has removed 99.5% of the clunk esp. when I'm running stock (17" rims) but I still get that clunk...but BARELY when I'm running my (19" wheels)
I apologize if I'm confusing you but this is just food for thought info hope that helps. I did in first thought is was %100 Megan but turn out it was NOT in my situation. Rear Swaybar and endlinks tightening made a difference. The progess sway bar helped with the clunks too.(sold it but running stock 20mm swaybar). Overall I've re-tighten endlinks and extra greased and loosen the C-clamps things....oh yeah its called the bushing..(4 nuts holding swaybar) Loosening it and not overtighten the middle area gives it some play. Good luck I know that Clunk is annoying.
Last edited by Etohprn247; 07-06-2010 at 08:57 PM.
#19
Safety Car
I've been looking for a set for the G as well. The clunking is a common issue, from what I've heard. Some people have some sort of rubber piece to solve the issue...unfortunately that's as far as my knowledge goes on the Megans...eluzion has some, if you're interested in PMing him.
#22
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Thread like this make me wonder why it seems ok to buy cheaper suspensions when there is always this question mark regarding noises, life span, etc. I mean, does it really make sense to get a kit that needs a DIY clunk-fix right out of the box?
That being said, most of the time you get noise in the rear it is from the endlinks not being tight enough. I have also seen top hat nuts being loose. With all parts tightened, you should have no noise.
That being said, most of the time you get noise in the rear it is from the endlinks not being tight enough. I have also seen top hat nuts being loose. With all parts tightened, you should have no noise.
#26
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
i have a rear clunk as well.. but im using the HTspec type 1 coils. I also tightened and retightened everything to the MAX.. but no change. =\ But it doesnt bother me as much anymore.. if anything I got use to it haha
IDK if this is any help.. but do u think it'll help if we jack the wheel/arm up and THEN try to tighten the tophat nuts? ( so instead of trying to pull the combined weight of the brakes, coils, and etc. upwards while trying to tighten the nut? the weight would be supported)
i've always thought about that after I stuck the rear seat back on but never gave it a shot.
IDK if this is any help.. but do u think it'll help if we jack the wheel/arm up and THEN try to tighten the tophat nuts? ( so instead of trying to pull the combined weight of the brakes, coils, and etc. upwards while trying to tighten the nut? the weight would be supported)
i've always thought about that after I stuck the rear seat back on but never gave it a shot.
#27
From a 2G to a 3G!
iTrader: (3)
i have a rear clunk as well.. but im using the HTspec type 1 coils. I also tightened and retightened everything to the MAX.. but no change. =\ But it doesnt bother me as much anymore.. if anything I got use to it haha
IDK if this is any help.. but do u think it'll help if we jack the wheel/arm up and THEN try to tighten the tophat nuts? ( so instead of trying to pull the combined weight of the brakes, coils, and etc. upwards while trying to tighten the nut? the weight would be supported)
i've always thought about that after I stuck the rear seat back on but never gave it a shot.
IDK if this is any help.. but do u think it'll help if we jack the wheel/arm up and THEN try to tighten the tophat nuts? ( so instead of trying to pull the combined weight of the brakes, coils, and etc. upwards while trying to tighten the nut? the weight would be supported)
i've always thought about that after I stuck the rear seat back on but never gave it a shot.
ISSUE FIXED, in 30 MINS SUPER SIMPLE!! Im ganna post a DIY with videos and stuff for others users to fix!
#28
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