Roger555

iTrader: (3)

It’s been about 3 weeks sense I installed my Tein SS coilovers and I would just like to reflect on the driving experience so far, and go over some of my issues so far.

This past weekend I drove the TL home to my parent’s house in Michigan (Currently live in North Carolina) about a 1400 mile round trip. Quickly before getting into it let me give you all the specs on my setup. I am running Aspec rims with Hankook V12 EVO tires (245/40/18) I believe but I will have to confirm that size. The Tein SS are set 13 clicks toward full soft on the rear and 10 clicks toward full soft in the front. Basically full stiff in supposed to be 17 clicks I think or all the way turned clockwise, the numbers I mentioned above are the clicks counter-clockwise from full stiff. I’m not exactly sure how many inches I’m lowered I forgot to measure the before/after but if you care to guess there is a picture below. I also did install the Type S bushings with brand new top hats.

The ride has been pretty good for the most part around North Carolina but the roads here are also pretty nice. I immediately noticed my boat like body roll had been eliminated for the most part, and driving around was much more enjoyable. I aligned my car immediately after the install and planned to get realigned after broken in, I saw a road trip to Michigan as the perfect opportunity!

The car drove great and handled well on the trip but once I hit Ohio the roads became noticeably worse and pretty uncomfortable at times. I found myself clenching my teeth thinking the next bump might bend my rim! Its not even the potholes that are bad, you can usually avoids stuff like that, it’s the little 1 inch ridges that run horizontal to the road that don’t get absorbed well. These uneven surface ridges seem to pop up like every 20 feet on 90% of the roads in Ohio/Michigan it sucks!!! Thud ….Thud …..Thud ….

My car at this height would definitely not survive in Michigan even with winter tires it’s just too low to function without the constant fear of tearing up my front lip. I couldn’t even get into my parents driveway with my car.

Ok now on to the problems I’m having. Sense lowering my car I have noticed a vibration during acceleration between 20-30 MPH and to me it feels like an axle vibration which I have experience with on my Acura Legend. While replacing my axles on the Legend with a set of remans I had a similar vibration (although much worse) only at 30mph after swapping with another set they were smooth as silk. I know lowering the car changing the angle of rotation within the CV joints on the axle but had not read much about this being an issue with anyone after lowering. I know for what I have read our axles seem to be a weak link in our drive train, but I only have 50K I don’t think this should be an issue for me quite yet!

Does anyone have any ideas on what I should do to address this issue? I cant live with the vibration its not bad and completely goes away if I am accelerating slow enough but who accelerates slowly? Lol its worse the more juice give it. I still have my powertain warranty but I cant see Acura just replacing my axles without saying something about the Teins and being lowered. Chances are if I raise it up just to take it to the dealership the vibration will probably go away.

Thought? Suggestions?



Dont have many pics this is the closest side shot I have sense the road trip

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

It does sound like an axle issue to me...

All I can think is maybe because you are sitting pretty low based on the pic and perhaps the inner joint took a little too much abuse with your road excursions. The lower you go the more chance you have of bottoming the axle bearings in the joint. I would never specifically say that lowering cars is good for axles, but I would be a liar if I said people have problems with axles after lowering.

Maybe the best bet is to raise the car a little and see what happens. Maybe putting to stock isn't really necessary, but cranking it up about 3/4" might reveal something.

As far as crashing over bumps goes, I definitely say this is coming from the low ride. There is more travel in this suspension than with stock dampers, but it isn't infinite. You are probably riding on the bump stops. You'll either need to raise it or firm it up a bit.


Just a sub-note for lurkers doing homework...this issue is very likely not related to Teins at all, but more likely is a byproduct of having lowered the car and could happen with a number of different kits.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Marcus, Just to be clear I am not blaming anything on the Teins I think they are great and this isn't my first lowered car i'm familiar with the pro/cons the travel and bump stops. The vibration I have didn't develop on the road trip it was immediate after lowering I really don't see how it could be anything other then the axles but you never know. Also I pretty sure i'm not hitting my bump stops, the ride is firm but nothing like the feeling you get when bottoming out on a bump stop. I think my next step is to raise it up a bit and see what happens. Just to note I am actually about 1/8" higher then the recommended height setting given by tein.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

So you have about 1.25" of threads showing on the shocks? It didn't look like that from your pics, but then it is hard to say.

Raising it might reveal something, but with all the kits I've put in I've test driven all of them and never had a related, or unrelated, vibration magically appear.

Might it have been an error with the installation? Sometimes when people install these they pop the axle out of the inner joint...if a bearing fell off in the boot you are going to have an issue like this for sure.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Ya I think it was about 1.125 I just remember raising it a bit cause it seemed pretty low on the recommended height. As for the axle getting damaged during the install with this car there was very little disassembly required to slip the shocks out I didn't even need to pop the ball joint on the upper A arm like I did on my ack legend. The axles remained in place for the most part except when slightly pushing down the knuckle to get the strut out of the bottom mount. I am very careful when doing work around the boots, I don't really see any way I could have damaged anything during the install but I guess theres always that possibility. I know what your saying about pulling the axles apart (so to speak) but because I didn't have to pop the lower or upper ball joints there isn't going to be any extra outward movement not experienced in everyday driving. Also just to note, prior to removal of the stock shocks I loosened all my bushings on the upper/lower arms and stabilizers then tightened once the Teins were installed to eliminate bushing preload. I can imagine this probably doesn't get done on the majority of installs here, I guess I only say this because I hardly ever see it mentioned at all and how important it is to the life of your bushings.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Roger, sorry to hear you're having problems. The stance in the picture looks great.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Ok, just making sure you weren't messing w the ball joints as many do do that and it could have been the problem.

Advanced step there in releasing the preload on the bushings, kudos to you. While the technically correct thing to do, it isn't really a critical point on these cars as it can be on many others. The bushings simply don't show advanced wear regardless. With the exception of the compliance bushing, but that is a different deal.


Man, I am pretty lost on this one. You definitely sound like you know your stuff. All I can say is I've never had happen what you are describing in years of installing Teins on TSXs and TLs.

BoxOn20s

I agree with those suspecting a cv axle problem. It has been discussed a time or two before and has gone away by raising the vehicle. In fact I have the same symptom but very faint and I'm much lower than you but its only when making a left turn with medium acceleration but I'm not raising my car so I just ignore it.

killersrt

I actually have had the same issue, from the day I dropped the car. I'm pretty much maxed out on the Teins though. I attributed it to an axle issue as well. I've replaced plenty of them in all my previous cars

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

thanks everyone I havent had a chance to raise it up but theres really no doubt in my mind its CV related.


--On a separate note on camber I know it doesn't really cause excess tire wear this is mostly caused by toe which I have corrected but I have noticed the rear tires are Wayyy louder then before they actually have a slight drone on the highway just in the rear hopefully the camber kit will correct this.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I am on Tein's too...and I absolutely had the same issue. It was like a wierd "wiggle" when accelerating 20 to 30 just as described.
I raised it up an inch all around and it went away...went and got an alignment. THEN, I got annoyed with how the car looked and dropped it back down.

Ended up replacing the both front axles and that solved the problem. No more wiggle for me.

I think that after 5 years our axles get kinda "worn" into a certain location based on height of car, then when you lower it you change that.

Good luck Roger...
J.

Dan00313

Sorry I can't help with diagnosing your issue, but your car looks great with that stance/wheel combo!

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Thats exactly what I picture in my head that the CV joints have kinda made a groove and the change causes this vibration. With this thought in mind I also think maybe I can "wear" a new groove and the vibration might smooth out a bit. At least I have no problem replacing my own axles if I have to go that route how much did you get new axles for? Did it take a full inch for the problem to go away? Did you try 1/4 , 1/2, 3/4 first? Just wondering if its worth it for me to try first I expect the results to be the same as yours.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

DO this...
SINCE you already know you can't leave it that low. Set it where you love how it looks but can live with how it will drive. May not be noticeable at that level...the factory setting which was 1" from the bottom gives a nice drop and may work.

I got them for $125 driver side $150 passenger at the local acura dealer...friend of mine that USED to work there got it to me for 10% over what they pay.

J.

killersrt

I used to go through Advanced Auto Parts for axles. They weren't OEM and most were rebuilds, but I never really had an issue with any of them, and they had a lifetime warranty. Any time I would break one, I just had to take it up to them and swap it for a new one right then and there. They were also only around $80 with a stock core Too bad I didn't know about it when I blew through 3-4 axles at $250+ a pop in the SRT

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

We've had these issues with TSXs for a while. The new axles we've been getting have not been any help at all. We are working with a company now to get better inner joints adapted to the factor axles.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

http://www.raxles.com/ makes very good rebuild axles

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

If it's any consolation, your car looks sick. I've seen tons of aftermarket wheels on here, but I think a-specs are the best.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man!


FYI about Raxles. I think Raxles are probably better then OEM I have gone through them before great customer service too! Also what he means about no charge "up front" for the cores is if you dont send your cores back with the prepaid mailers within like 60 days then they will charge you additional for not returning them.

Hi Roger,
Thank you for you inquiry! The axles for your 06 Acura TL are $149.95 per
side. Please keep in mind when comparing prices that at Raxles we use NEW
outer joints on all of our axles. (An industry exclusive)(See our website
http://www.raxles.com/no_regrind.aspx for further elaboration on this
important fact). We build these out of HD NEW components using Amsoil
synthetic grease, new nuts, Harmonic Dampeners!, and the BEST CV boots. We
charge no core charge "up front" and we include a UPS ARS pre-paid return
label with your order. Let me know if I can be of help!

Marty

www.raxles.com

sales@raxles.com

RaxlesT..Better With New ..Let Us Prove It!

Raxles Inc

2341 NW 71st Pl

Gainesville FL 32653

800-257-8192

Slpr04UA6

^Sounds Great! Let us know how they work out, if you end up ordering them.

They are located relatively close to where I live.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

We've seen these on a few vehicles, ranging from Acuras to Mitsubishis. The factory CV joints are worn over time from normal use; and then the vehicle is lowered on coilovers a fair amount. Now, the CV joint is operating at a different angle and it creates a low speed vibration. It's not the suspension; it's the CV joints. Generally, replacing the axle eliminates the issue.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like we've got some concurrence there...

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Except this isn't really an issue with the CV, it is with the inner joint. The CV is the outer joint.

Axles have three components...the outer cv joint, the shaft, and the inner sliding joint. The inner joint really is where most vibration issues eliminate from. The material is weak and wears.

07TLTypeS420

iTrader: (1)

beautiful car...tastefully done...

Hope your issues get worked out with the suspension.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That would make sense...
I've noticed that the inner portion of my passenger side half shaft has some play to it...could this lead to high speed vibration being transferred to steering wheel and pedal?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Silly Marcus, always getting technical on us. Either way it's one of the joints on the axle. It's the inner joint.

According to Driveshaft shop the inner and outer joints are both CV's though:

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import...c-axle-level-0

Using a chromoly center bar, a real billet inner cv with a larger oversized tripod and a new heat treat on our 1117 billet outer. The outer cv is custom made with a single arc design; this is a time/wear advantage over the factory Honda dual arc design that tends to wear out prematurely.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Their level zeros have not gotten consistent good feedback. I've had a few TSX people report they still get vibrations. To get the superior product you need to go up to 2.9s over $800!