Hi guys, I am going to get some coilovers and need some help deciding which to get. Tein Street Advance or Street Flex. Im leaning toward Street Flex due to the fact the spring preload and height adjustments are separate. Also the Street Flex says it includes the pillow ball mounts. Is that the same thing as the top hats or is that something different? And if so, do i need to buy those as well? Any help would be appreciated

 

If you have the extra cash to spend...get the Street Flex since they already come with the top hats mounted. With the Advanced, you will either have to swap over your existing stock top hats or buy new ones. The Street Flex are supposed to be the best of the bunch as far as Tein is concerned. But the Street Advanced are no slouch either.

 

Thanks. Good to know the Flex comes with the tophats. I was also considering the D2 racing RS coilovers. Anyone have any experience with these?

 

The street flex are a step above the street advance, and the separate height and dampening adjustment is a great feature. We offer both on our website:

Street Advance:
TEIN Dampers - Street Advance - Excelerate - HOA - Japanese Performance Specialist

Street Flex:
TEIN Dampers - Street Flex - Excelerate - HOA - Japanese Performance Specialist

Sorry I do not personally have any experience with the D2's

 

I think I've decided to go with the street flex. If you can give me a better deal than these guys (TEIN Street Flex Dampers; For EDFC use EDK05-12120 (Motor) ACURA TL) I will buy from you. I also need front and rear camber kits, some SS brake lines and a few bottles of motul 5.1 Maybe a package deal?

 

you should probably message them if you're looking for a group deal. I dont think they'd publicly post out a price

 

Thanks. I will try that

 

UBERTL I believe my rep PMed you. If not email me at sales@excelerateperformance.com

 

I would stay away from any spring (like Tien or others) that are only 8" tall. Its going to ride rough. I replaced mine with Koni and Eibach and the front is firmer than Aspec and the rear is about like aspec. If I every change this, I would be be slighty happier with Koni with some custom springs and threaded bodies to mount on the Koni's. I would get the spring rates nearly identical to eibach, but instead of a 12" spring, I would get a 10" spring. Aspecs are about 13.25 to 13.5" long. A 10 inch spring would give you room to move the spring up and down and provide shock absorption.

From left to right, Tien, Eibach, Aspec.

 

Yes, He did. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Thats good to know. But wouldnt taller springs reduce the amount of drop I could get?

 

In my estimation, if you use a custom 10" spring instead of eibach's 12" spring, the you can go at least 1.5" inches lower than eibach, and maybe up to 2" lower if you use the lower perch of Koni's. And that is a lot. The reason I give a range of 1.5 to 2" lower is because the oem style spring sits slightly below the perch. But if you convert the koni's to a coilover threaded body, then the threaded body will sit on the perch, like level. So, you lose a bit of lowering ability. But as for myself, I am riding on the upper perch with my eibachs, so if I lowered the perch and installed the threaded body, then it would not effect me much.

I think Teins will go lower than what you want to ride at. I have seen my car like that when they installed them. And I told them to raise it so I could drive it. It was so low that it was bad. So, with that being said, you have more lower capability than you need with TEIN. But if your goal is to go as low as you can and you do not care about ride or if you cat gets beat up and rattles a lot, then drop it all the way with TEIN. haha It might go a little lower. But you wont leave it there very long if you drive on streets.

 

Threaded bodys and custom springs.
Ground Control - Eibach 2.5" ID ERS Spring


Coilovers: I think this will work, I called them and verified, but you do your own checking. I cant remember if this was the one.
http://www.ground-control-store.com/...p/II=516/CA=70


I dont know if this is any good below, but I saw this.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...00-1/overview/

I have Konis and Eibachs, but if I get a threaded body, I have to change the spring.. because the oem style springs are beveled on the bottom. And the coilover type springs are flat on both ends. That's why the oem spring actually sits a bit lower than the perch, but the oem style springs are sooo tall.. The eibach pro kit took out some of the length, but its not adjustible.. So to make it adjustible you have to consider the perch does not allow the spring to sit quite as low, on a coilover..

 

Also, the spring rate on the prokit Eibachs on the front are about 372ftlbs. These ride the best. However, a 12kg spring = 672ftlbs. That is a lot stiffer. But 392 is stiffer than aspecs but don't kill your car. According to what Eibach told me, their rear prokit springs rate is from 150 to 250 (Progressive rate) So, instead of going with 150, I would pick the custom springs of 372-233 to keep the springs rate ratio proportionate to the weight ratio of the car.... or pick 400(F)-251(R).. The only thing I have not decided is how tall for the rear springs.. Should they be the same length as the front or taller than the front? The taller and softer they are the more they will float.

 

Thanks, Man I wish I knew more about this stuff. Im new to this kind of stuff. So you are saying I should get the coilover, but just with taller or custom springs? I have no idea what the proper spring rate would be. Could I just use the stock type s springs? Sorry for being a I definitely want the tein because I want to get EDFC as well. I do want to drop the car but like you said still want to be able to drive it lol

 

Some of teins roughness can be smoothed out by not lowering too much. Also, if you lower it or go stiffer, you might encounter some noise from upper or lower ball joints and possibly sway bar links. Because yours might be worn now but you may not notice they are worn until you make it stiffer.. Then you will be wanting to fix those other items too.

As far as doing what I said, that is what I would do. I think all coilovers with a 12kg spring and a short spring will ride too rough. I would not want to go any firmer than Eibach prokit springs on the front.. and for the rear, you may want to go slightly firmer than eibachs prokit springs. But truthfully, its all an experiment. No one has set it up like that yet. See, my attempt to order a custom spring would bring the best of both worlds to lowering a suspension with ride quality. I think many people pump up coilovers, then they end up switching them out.. and doing it over and over because they are not happy with it.. So, I am just trying to save you some pain and $. I liked the TIEN stance that I was able to dial in.. but the ride was too rough. The ride would be great on a track, but not on a street. Tien basis and SA have the same short 12kg spring. And Tein SA goes 200% more dampening.. but I had the Basis, and they were still too firm. I couldnt imagine going firmer with the SA. But if the SA will go softer, that I do not know.. But they do have the same spring as the basis. So, I would think damping would not be much less..

Anyway, I cant really tell you EXACTLY without a doubt which uncompressed spring length to get because I have yet to try it myself. And nobody has tried it. I have other projects to finish before I mess with my suspension again. All i see are many people advertising TEIN and all these coilovers and then trying to fix it up and make it better because it turns out they weren't happy with it.

But what I would do is get a 10" spring for the front. But for the rear, I am not sure because I never did measure my eibachs or oem's when they were out of the car.( The 10" spring is 10" "uncompressed".. And I think they are 2.5" inner diameter.) But I have a tendency to say the rear springs are a bit longer, but I could be wrong. And again, for a spring rate, I would not go more than 400(f) - 251(r). I would buy the 372-233 and 10" for the front and I think I would get the 10" for the front. Worst case scenario is that the rear springs would be too short, and then you would just have to raise it up a bit more.. But I think there would be plenty of threads on the threaded body to raise it up enough.. because the issue was at first was "will it be able to go as low as tein"..Not "will it go as high.." So I think height on the rear will be "achievable" with a 10" spring. So no I wouldn't go taller than 10" all the way around.

If you did that, you would be a pioneer. Nobody has tried it. But hey, unless you got money to burn, I would caution against being a pioneer. Because there is a "trial and error" process..

Also, there is only 1 place to get EDFC. So, there you have the dilemma that everyone talks about. Coilovers are like tires.. All tires of pros and cons.. Coilovers are like that too. Unless you custom build your own with a preferred spring rate, and a threaded body, and a damper that has damping adjustments too. (like koni)

.

 

one thing you might watch out for is while comparing eibach prokit spring rate to a new custom spring rate, if we say 372 is the prokit spring rate, and it is, then if we shorten the spring, will it be a good idea to increase the spring rate? If so, then 400/251 would be the direction I would go. I think a shorter spring will have a tendency to collapse sooner. My goal would be to get something as close to eibachs as possible (except for the weak rear springs) and create ride height adjustability. Thats where all the questions come in about which spring length will achieve what you want.. But then you have to consider the the difference in springs... between coilovers and oem style. You just have to have done this once to know what I am talking about. As I already said, the oem style springs are beveled on the bottom.. So you cannot use them (like prokits) on a threaded body. But if you get the threaded body, those springs will not sit below the perch. So what is the end result? How long is the oem spring? And if the new spring will not go below the perch and it is RAISED, then how much shorter does you spring have to be to make you car get lower, and if you raise the bottom of the spring to level with the perch? See, lots of variables.

 

If you think doing what I said was hard, then look at this video. This guy Cut his OEM assembly and mounted new shocks and put on a threaded body.. And bam.. this is sort of the end result of what I am talking about.. but no cutting.. Just putting it together yourself is probably best for both worlds!

 

I found the OEM spring dimensions written down in my garage. So if you want to match the inner diameter, this is what they are, and mainly the bottom is the most important. I think most springs get bigger at the top a little bit. Remember we reuse the tophats for TEIN and KONI's. And still I measured a wider inner diameter at the tops of both the front and rear OEM springs and it didn't hurt. Come to think of it, Tien gives a metal ring that goes on the top.. But we still use the oem top hat assembly.

OEM-aspec for automatic
Front:
13 1/8" long
ID = 2.5" (bottom)
ID = 3.25" (Top)


Rear
14 1/4" long (uncompressed)
ID = 3 1/4" (bottom)
ID = 3 9/16" (Top)


I didn't realize the rears were that much wider, but they don't widen as much as the front does as it goes up.


The Eibachs are obviously a little shorter. I think the inner diameters are the same or very close to OEM.


So basically, if you pick custom springs, then I ASSUME you will have to pick a different size for the rear. This weekend I am going to take off the rear tires to redo some plastidip (new tires) and I will try to measure the rear eibachs I have now when the rear end is off the ground. That way we know not to go shorter than that for sure because we wouldn't want the assembly to come apart if someone raised the rear end. I have a micrometer, I will try to measure the outer diameter of the eibachs at the top and the bottom on the rear. Then calculate the inner diameter. I would expect to see something like those oem measurements.

 

I am running a sale on tein, check it out.


www endLessrpm com

 

We're having a crazy sale on TEIN coilovers as well!

https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w...rmance-922389/

 

When the dollar grows stronger like it is now, if Foreign companies do not lower their price, they get paid times 2. When the dollar grows stronger the foreign exchange rate means they get more Yen's than they normally would because it takes more yens to equal 1 dollar. So, right now, they have room to lower the price without feeling it, and that would be a great thing to sell more if the country is in a recession/depression.

 

^^ good point. Either way, looks like im going to have to wait till tax time to get mine