I'd like to see or at least hear about where you guys have placed the display unit. I plan on ordering these and am trying to figure out where to put this thing.

Unfortunately, I don't have the center storage compartments due to relocation of the OEM screen...glovebox is out of the question b/c there's a computer in there. I guess the center console is a possibility. Any suggestions?

 

how bout cup holder...

 

is there any place under the steering wheel? (not directly under but to the left/right, yet still under, it?)

or the lower part of the center console where the coin holder is? (i put my coin holder where the side compartment is, so i have a lot space there)

 

glove compartment?

 

I use it too often.

That's seeming to be my only option.

Well, it's possible, but I already have a computer in there.

 

Hello ITL,

I don't know if you have enough cable but, what about mounting it to the plastic door in the driver's door map pocket?

When you need to change the settings, just pull the pocket open, adjust and shut. Out of the way but still easy to get to.

You may need to build a few "extension" cables for the farthest motors and the worst part would be routing the wire harnesses through the rubber door wiring feed.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing!

 

That's a great idea. I'll have to see if there's enough length on the cables, if not, I guess I could always extend them.

 

That's a good idea, but make sure you do not mount the controller ON the movable flap. That flap causes rattle as is. If you mount something on it it will cause more rattles.

 

I doubt you will have enough cable cause this is all the cable that I had to mount mine in my tsx. It is not actaully a bad locatoin although I would love to mount it on top of the steering column like where turbo timers are mounted. Not so I can try to look cool but rather for ease of readability. However the cables are not long enough to permit that.

 

Good point, kenny. I like the hideability of this location, but you're probably right about the rattles. On another note, I came across your fix for the driver door rattles. I'm going to try to silence mine after reading your post. Thanks!

CCC- thanks, man. Sounds like I'll definintely be extending the cables. I like your idea of mounting on top of the steering column. Is that a Honda wheel in your TSX?

 

That's a good point! ITL, you should try a pre mount as well to see if there will be any issues with noise or rattles.

I have already tried it with mine by mounting the controller via Velcro (I love this stuff) but minus cables and I drove around for an hour or so without any noise or problems. I mounted it as far back on the movable flap under the arm rest (removed the eyeglass holder). Out of site but still easy to access.



I'm not sure if all EDFCs come with the same length cables, but the 10100 kit's (for the TL Super Street Coilovers without the optional pillow mounts) primary cables are just over 3 feet long, more than enough to exit the door. The secondary cables for the front are just over 8 feet long and the rears are 13 feet long.

As I said earlier, ITL may need to make an extension or two. This being the case, making the extensions are relatively easy as the secondary cables are a three wire setup with what appears to be a standard four pin Molex connector, available at Radio Shack or any good electronics supply and the cable probably need to be only a couple of feet long at the most.

Lastly, unfortunately where I live, there is always the possibility that if someone should see the controller, not knowing what it is, they may still think it is of some value to them and I would hate to come back to my TL only to find a window broken and the controller gone including anything else damaged in its removal.

Out of site, out of mind as my uncle used to say.

 

I'm thinking out of sight, out of mind....as my carPC is completely stealth for the same reason.

 

yup that is a honda wheel in my tsx. I have done a complete JDM badge conversion along with the JDM lip kit, headlights, taillights, door sills, floor mats, grill, valve cover, and many other things.

 

hmmm if anyone has anymore insite into extending the cables I mights do it. I dont park the car anywhere I cant see it and only drive it on sunday dry days since I have converted it into a full show car. However I still like to drive it every chance I get.

 

well, you could either splice and solder in the length of wire you need or if it uses Molex connectors as CAHobbs stated, you could make a plug and play extension.

 

it seems the silicone did not get rid of all the rattles so I did something drastic last weekend.

I used the silicone sealant and glued the flap shut.

Guess what? it's 100% gone. no rattles, nada!!

good thing about the silicone sealant is that it's removable so I will remove it before selling the car.

 

which method are you going to try first. I dont currently have my car with me while I am at school but I would be interested in doing it the second way of making plug and play extensions.

 

I am trying to find to correct molex connectors online but dont remember what the actual wire count and what not is for the edfc and the cables. I was wondering if someone could post up a picture of the back of the edfc and the front and rear cable connectors.

 

As requested, here are a few pictures I think will help.

First is the EDFC Wiring diagram:


Here is a shot of the connectors on the back of the EDFC. As you ca see, the "Front and Rear" connectors appear to be similar to the type used inside of audio equipment:


Here are the F/R Primary cables to the EDFC connectors, I suggest you leave this end of the cables alone!


Here is the Front Primary cable EDFC and P3 connectors:


Here are pictures of the Front and rear Primary P3 Connectors. This is where I suggest you would add a new "Extension Cable", between the primary and intermediate P3 connections. Each extension would need only three wires and if you can’t find the exact Molex connectors, buy a new set and change them out. As you can see, the front and rear cables use the same pair of three color-coded wires:



Lastly, here is a picture of the P3 and Waterproof P3 connectors on the front Intermediate cable:


Because I am using "Photobucket", I believe the pictures will stay for only 7 days. I would suggest anyone wanting a copy of any of these pictures to do so now or contact me and I will try to send you a copy.

Good Luck!!

 

That helps greatly...those aren't exactly like molex power connectors and it would probably be hard to find connectors to match. If necessary to extend any of those harnesses, I'll just cut, splice the length of my extension, solder and heat shrink to make a longer cable.

Compared to the 44 wires I had to extend to relocate my OEM lcd, the 10 or so cables on this EDFC will be a breeze. Thanks for the pics!

 

my buddies did mine for me and they put it in the top pocket of the center console. wires were long enough and it looks real clean.
here is a few pics

 

My favorite place to put it although not possible would be the sunglass storage area

 

When do you plan on doing this. I would like to know if they are just simple wires or if they have extra shielding or what not. I am at school for two more weeks till I go home for a weekend and plan to do this then but just want to see if you get any more information before then.

also are you sure that you cant find those connectors anywhere. the ones that go straight into the edfc looks like ones i have seen a lot of places before.

 

well, the TEINs are backordered for a few weeks, so....that's that.

There shouldn't be any shielding, just the wire and the surrounding insulation. It should be as easy as splice and go.

 

What point do you think would be the easiest to do it at. I mean my first prefernce is gonna be to make plug and play extension before splicing anything cause that would be great.

 

made a call to TEIN a little while ago and talked to them. They are going to talk to the engineers and have them see if they can get a part number from japan for the connectors used to make the cables. Hopefully I will hear back from them by the end of the week.

 

ITL is correct, the wires are 20 gauge twisted copper unshielded. Your idea of reusing the original connectors by just spicing in a new section and resoldering the connector back is probably a better solution. More connections = more places for problems. Since each cable to each motor module has only three wires, the work is minimal.

I was planning to install mine in the upper storage compartment, but the door pocket is starting to grow on me!

ITL, post some pictures when you have your EDFC installed.

BTY, you do know if you install the EDFC on the front, you will have to run without the front strut bar?

If you plan to drive you TL "briskly", I strongly suggest you install another bar in place of the original.

Here is a link where a Greddy Strut Bar for the 04 Accord was used:

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/movie-recommendations-133164/


Later, member "bklynpanman" installed the Accord "top hats" and that allowed him to secure the bar mount with both holes. Click on the links to see the pictures-

http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg01199lj.jpg

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/310...01200ek.th.jpg


There is another post with picture where someone just modified the Factory Strut Bar by cutting away the metal from the top and end of the Strut Bar Mount until the EDFC motors fit on.

I do not recommend you do the same!!! While the factory bar and mounts are made of mild steel, their design creates an incredibly strong and light unit. After modifying, the small amount of remaining metal left to connect the Strut Bar to the Bar mounts is not strong enough to prevent flexing during hard cornering. This will eventually lead to cracking and failure of the Strut Bar.

 

At what point? Anywhere, really...just make sure you have an inch or two on either side to make sure you have room to work with the wires when soldering. A plug and play extension would be easier, if you aren't comfortable with soldering. Tell you what, if you find the connectors to mate to the current harnesses, I'll make you an extension



@CAHobbs, I appreciate the heads up. I've actually been watching those threads and have seen what people have been doing. They seem to have cut out quite a bit more than necessary to get the EDFC on there. I will probably stick with the OEM bar and cut out a little more precisely. Unless I felt a real difference in the handling, I don't think it'll be an issue.

 

ITL, Sounds like a plan! If possible, any pictures during and after you have finished trimming the Strut bar would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, if by chance you end up creating a template, passing that along would place the rest of us whose hands aren't as steady as they used to be, forever in your dept!

Can't wait to how it comes out...

Good luck!

 

I'm thinking about putting it in the center console. I talked to a vendor today about the length of the cables and he said there should be more than enough. I'll probably run one of the cables through the strut brace since I'll be cutting it anyway, and then run both cables for the front through the same hole in the firewall.

 

they will reach the center console and if I didnt have a video screen there that is where mine would be.

However does anyone think it would be bad to extend the wires of the harnesses that plug into the edfc since my car is already wired I dont really want to extend them back towards the motors and have to take the seats out to undo zip ties and everything. I also only have a problem with my rear harness anyways cause the front one will already reach the top of the steering wheel.

 

I don't see any problems whatsoever.

 

well I gave in and ordered some connectors that look like the ones labeled P3 on the instruction. I got them from www.partsexpress.com. they should be here this week and I am going to try the install thursday night. hopefully they are the correct connectors and that I can make some 5 ft extensions so that I have more than enough wire to play with to install the edfc on top the steering column. now I have a question. does anyone know where I can get heat shrink on like a roll so I can heat shrink the entire cable rather than using larger wire loom.

 

I haven't ever seen it in a roll, but you can buy some larger diameter heatshrink tubing. I've found heatshrink at Home Depot and Radio Shack.

 

CCColtsicehockey, I can get the heat shrink by the roll depending on the size. Used to use it on my computers, audio cables and paintball guns.

PM me and let me know what diameter of heat shrink you need and I'll see if it's available and how much it will cost.

See ya!

 

Just in...Late breaking news.......

I have acquired three sets of the correct three-pin connectors (P3) for the EDFC!

If anyone is interested, I can make up to three extension cables at this time.

My source for the connectors ran dry for now, but as soon as I can identify the MFG. I'll pass on the info!

PM me and let me know what lengths you need.

 

well the connectors that I ordered were 3 pin connectors and the same design but in a larger size. However I had enough slack in the back I found out that I could get the EDFC on the top of the steering column like I wanted. I am back at school now and forgot to take pictures so I will get some up this weekend.

 

So here is a picture finally of where I put my EDFC at.

 

looks good, but i prefer to keep it out of sight. mine is currently loose in the center console, but i'm thinking of placing it by the driver's knee.

 

mine's in the center console.. the top compartment of the 2.. held down with velcro.. perfect.