ATLS_666

Do they sell aspec springs seperate?

Wacker

The goal is to bring the LCA up while allowing the UCA to be near the stock location. With a spring, you are taking that area from the sprung (shaft) portion of the shock...reducing the amount of travel the shock has. By using a setup with a shorter body instead of a shorter spring, you can lower the car yet still maintain near stock travel. What IHC did was dropped his shock lower in the lower fork while actually adjusting the spring up to maintain the original ride height and increasing travel. He didnt lower the car farther by removing the tab, he just simulated having a shorter shock body.

I recommend the OP trim one of the 3 bulges (preferably the fattest) off of his bump stop and report back.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

For optimal ride the best option would be to somehow modify the stock shock and spring to sit lower in the fork. I have no clue how someone could successfully modify the bottom of the shock it fork to allow the shock to sit an inch or so lower. And it would obviously have to be safe too.
As of now I guess the H&Rs are fine. Most of my driving is on decent roads. Would be cool to lower the car but use 100% stock shocks and springs and keep full shock travel. It's a great idea I Hate Cars.

Wacker

You can knock off the tab/ring on the stock shocks as well. That will only allow for about 1/2" of drop though.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

But if you do that what supports the shock in the fork then?

I hate cars

That's what the mod does. You get the lowering but you don't lose travel.

I've used aspec springs on the low perch, it was a nice setup but the car was touching the bump stops just sitting there. I cut them but cutting bumpstops is a bandaid. I could mark them with grease to see if they were hitting and after a slow drive down my street and back again they touched everytime.

The car doesn't have to slam and bottom to involve the bumpstops. If you're lowered chances are you're involving the bumpstops all the time. That's why it's so important to retain full travel for both comfort and performance.

I don't like the shorter springs. The TL is horrible when you unload the suspension on a curve. I've installed aftermarket springs that didnt require a compressor because they weren't long enough. That's going to give not only noise at full droop but also the tires are going to have a hard time staying in contact with the road.

I can install stock springs without a compressor but I have to work for it.

I hate cars

The tab locates the shock for installation but its not load bearing

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

But the load bearing portion is that ring around the shocks is it not? Plus even if we got a little extra lowering in the front that still leaves the back at stock height, unless the back doesn't have a bump stop issue and would still work fine with lowering springs.

Legitka9

iTrader: (1)

I get what you mean now. Makes sense! Basically puts the upper control arm in a more optimal location.

Wacker

No, it's not. It's only for locating purposes. The bolt that you tighten on the fork provides more than enough clamping force to hold the shock. The ring is there to make the install dummy proof. Imagine how much time it would add to the assembly line having to measure how deep each front shock/strut is mounted in the fork....

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

Well you guys did not convince me to leave the H&R's installed lol. I ended up removing them yesterday and put the stock springs back in. I am sooooo happy I did. Within the first 2 minutes of driving I was able to tell the ride was so much better. I did a lot of research on which spring to go with and every persons review stated that the springs are as soft or softer than OEM. That is absolutely NOT true. From previous experience I knew that the ride is expected to be rougher with a lowering spring, but everyones input from this site had me thinking maybe on the TL lowering springs arent that bad. Like I said before, on good roads they were just fine, but lets face it, there arent too many roads that are perfectly smooth in this country. Over medium to large bumps the car was just jolting and uncomfortable. Im in my 30's now and have a wife and kid, I guess its time to move on from these kind of mods lol.
What would be really cool is if someone could find an OEM spring/shock assembly from a different Honda vehicle that will bolt up to the TL, but give it the slightly lowered look we all love, but a nice smooth OEM ride that can handle bumps comfortably.
Anyway, thanks everyone for your help atleast I got the lowering bug off my mind and its not a mod im going to think about doing day in and day out. The car rides soo smooth now :-)
H&R's have already been sold to a forum member....funny how that happened because I didnt even get a chance to list them for sale :-)

ATLS_666

AcuraCake

iTrader: (3)

geekybiker

Sounds like you want the A-spec suspension.

Wacker

Did you ever relax your bushings?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

Wow, did not know this. I thought there was more gap. I guess that is why cutting the bumpstops is recommended by lowering spring manufacturers.



dang, surprised you got rid of the springs so quickly. How does the car look at stop height with the aspecs?

geekybiker

Something like 3/4" drop IIRC. Google for pics. Its not real noticeable, but handles better and more stock like ride.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Buddy, I'm glad you're happy with your final decision. And that's great that someone already bought your H&R's too.

jon2000

I love my a-spec suspension! Not the best pic but here's a recent one ...


Jon