trent_ky

So I paid a shop $211 bucks to replace one rear wheel hub/bearing assembly to cure a humming noise my car was making. After replacing, the noise was still there. They suggested replacing the rear hub/bearing on the other side. I decided I would give it a try myself seeing that the part is only ~$80.

Yesterday I tackled the project and it was actually pretty easy considering my lack of experience with all things related to brake and suspension repair. The car is now quiet finally. I am a little concerned about the torque spec on the axle nut though. I "borrowed" a torque wrench from the auto parts store and torqued the axle nut to spec (134 lbs). After doing so I noticed that the place on the spindle (?) where you have to "notch" it was at 3 oclock and the notching spot on the axle nut was at about 4 oclock. I decided that rather than over tightening it i would just loosen the nut up just a hair to be able to notch it.

Basically what I'm getting at is I am paranoid my wheel is going to fly off while driving down the road. Can someone tell me if I did the right thing or if I should stop driving the car immediately? I apologize for my poor parts terminology. I will post pictures of what I'm talking about if necessary.

Thanks!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

The wheel isn't going to come off, but the correct procedure is to use a new nut, install to 134 ft lbs and stake it. Using the used nut will cause a drag where the stake rubs against the threads, but should still tighten to 134 and stake it there, don't back off.

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

I just use an impact set on the highest setting to put nut back on and its usually right where the staked part was.

Damn I bet they replaced the other side intentionally to get you to do the other side for easy money.

Or they were just idiots shooting blindly at a problem before actually diagnosing what was really wrong.

Glad you got it fixed. The fronts are even more fun.

trent_ky

Thanks guys...I will probably get a couple new nuts and replace them both...im sure the one the shop did wasn't replaced.

You are probably right sauce...Seems like mostly all the businesses around here are out to screw people over for a couple bucks from my unfortunate experience. I've decided I'm going to do everything I am capable of on my car from here on out myself. I just had to fight with the same shop who did the bearing replacement over my back tires wearing out in 6k miles due to a bad alignment by them (toe was wayyyyyy out of spec). I ended up getting four tires at half price which I was happy with since the ones on the car were shitty fuzion tires anyways. Your car looks sick BTW. I like the grille...mine is painted NBP all around and I'm thinking I need to bring the silver outline back.

Jesstzn

You don't use a torque wrench?

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

Not on axle nuts. I do have a 1/2" ft lbs torque wrench and a 3/8" in lbs torque wrench (mostly for oil pan bolts)

But for an axle nut tight is good. I usually don't restake them after I take them off either unless a new axle and nut is being used.

Hell thats why I bought my nitro cat impact was for the 1100 ft/lbs reverse power for crank pulley bolts and axle nuts.

Setting 2 is right at 86 ft/lbs so I use that for lug nuts and setting 3 is low 100's or so. Never had a problem and have been doing this for many years.