Macoyle

Hey guys, I just bought the car about a week and a half ago and I was noticing the rear tires look like they have too much positive camber. Its all stock suspension, just hit 135k miles so possibly the rear struts are worn out? I tried searching to see if this is a common problem but I just put a new set of Toyos on it and don't want them wearing out faster than they need to. It was very hard to take a pic so there are several to look at since it doesn't really look bad on some pics. I did put a system in the car but I don't think that should be weighing the car down enough to do this. Let me know what y'all think, thanks in advance-
Mike









Drivers side rear

Passenger side rear (looks worst IMO)

pimpin-tl

Looks pretty normal for a Honda.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

How does it ride?...135k miles on stock suspension?your definitely due for new shocks...have to put it on a lift and check all suspension parts.....and of coarse align the car when done...

Those kickers are heavy as fcuk!...lol

truonghthe

take it to the dealer and get alignment done at 135k miles you never know when the last time it got done. If you decide to change the suspension then go with coil or lower spring and strut.

Macoyle

really? just looks like its gonna wear out the rear tires pretty quick between rotations. and its really hard to see on the pics but I guess Ill take it in for an alignment to make sure every things within specs.

I don't mind replacing struts or shocks but I wouldn't lower it at all, not really my thing

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

Lowering may not be your thing but judging by that monster box you have in the back,your car going to sag from the back and I just fcuking hate it..it completely makes me not like a car at all,sort of like a Nissan,they make nice cars but that sagging from the back is just ughhh....

Most people who own a car don't like or won't spend the money on new shocks,probably still does....

Macoyle

Yea I'm going to end up selling one of the subs and building a custom box and just running one l7. The car doesn't look like its sagging just looking at it but as you can see the rear shocks must be feeling it lol.

Every other vehicle I have owned has been a 4x4 that was lifted, so yea the stock stance is "lowered" enough for me lol

gwiffer

iTrader: (7)

That's negative camber, not positive. Most FWD Hondas/Acuras come with ~ -1.0deg of camber in the rear stock.

FYI, worn shocks will not cause a change in ride height or affect the alignment. The springs support the load of the vehicle; the shocks just dampen the oscillations after the suspension moves/absorbs road imperfections.

UA6

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

You look squatted because you're running probably 60lbs of gear in the back, and that's going to happen. By factory default, you'll have some negative camber. If you just put new tires on, you should have an alignment done, anyway.

At 135k, do yourself a favor and replace the suspension.

Macoyle

? Nothing to see here? I am asking a valid question as to why the rear suspension appears to be sagging, and am trying to prevent premature wear on the tires as this will inevitably do if it stays this way.

If this is a common problem then I was wondering about a solution, and what it may be before I tear into it in the next couple weeks when I am done recovering from my back issues. Thank you for your very informative post, you have made the Internet a smarter place.

Macoyle

Hmm, I wouldn't have thought an extra hundred pounds would have really made that big of a difference on the suspension cycle, I haven't owned a car in 8 or 9 years I have always had lifted trucks and suv's so I'm still figuring out the grocery getter lol. thanks man I guess I'll have to look into a new rear suspension. I'm sure it would look really bad if I had 4 people in it

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

There's not reason to dump the setup, just understand it will exhibit its effect on stance.

On the TL, alignment and routine rotation, like any other GG, will preserve tire life.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

You should get an alignment done.

Macoyle

Well I got a package deal on the subs and amp and it's really just too loud for my tastes, I have the amp at half way and the settings at -5 for 90% of the time listening to music and I can still turn it up to -2 or so and make your hair vibrate lol. So downsizing was going to happen sooner or later anyways I just wasn't sure if this was normal or not. In person it stands out a lot easier than the pics, but the last couple of pictures where you can see the tread gaps vs no gaps where the tire has more pressure probably show it the best

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

You don't have TPMS?

Macoyle

No mine is an 04 I don't think that came out til 06 or 07

07_J35A8_noob

well, the only thing i could tell u, as stated also above, is get your wheel alignment check. cost about $20. the person before u prob have lowering spring or something.. i had the same problem but all good now since i got mine align. Good Luck

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I'm not a big fan of having the alignment done frequently, but if a possible problem exists, or if questionable, this is what needs to be done, get it aligned with the equipment that is usually in the trunk, make certain there's about 1/2 tank of fuel, and also have the rear toe set at zero minimum, no negative.

Contrary to popular believe, there is no time limit as to shock/strut replacement, so even at the 135k mark they should/could still be good.

Get the alignment done then you'll know, we'll all know.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^turbonut is always for the winn!!!!

I would get an alignment, just to make sure everything is spot on.
I'd check the shocks to see if they're not leaking.

shenrie

it does appear to have excessive camber in the rear for an unlowered car. get it aligned and report back. if its got excessive negative camber you could have worn bushings in the rear or there could be bent shit from a wreck or something.

The driver front does also appear to have positive camber, but like stated, its impossible to be sure without an alignment. Ive seen lots of bent lcas from curb hits on snow days that could cause positive camber like that. Could be the reason for the wheel upgrade too. hard to say buying a used car.

get an alignment and report back. theres quite a few knowledgable people here that can read alignment specs and give you good recommondations of what needs done.

Hopefully its as simple as some new bushings or a camberkit in the back and the front is just an opticle illusion

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Lets bring IHC into this thread.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Macoyle

Alright guys, I went and got it aligned, still have the camber issues, here are the numbers




so what do you think? nothing looks worn or anything so I am still suspecting its the struts. whats your guess? the mechanics there said to look into a camber kit and Ill do that as well but I don't think I should have to with stock height

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

The left rear is fine..the right rear is off a little..

I think you will be fine,since your toe is set to spec now,toe will wear your tires 100x faster.....



Btw 04 TL with 135k miles?.....you have to check your shocks and bushings links etc......

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

They should have set the toe equally on each side, not total toe positive. The left rear is toed in while the right is toed out. Rear shoiuld be 0 min on both, no negative and same side to side. This in itself won't change the camber problem and if the right side isn't sitting lower than the left, the only correction is a camber kit providing no bushing are collapsed.

Macoyle

I checked everything out after I updated the post and everything looks fine, no damage, excess wear on anything, everything is still tight. Doesn't make sense since everything is stock, it should at LEAST be within the specs. It's been a long time since I have owned a car but wouldn't a worn out strut or spring sag, to where it's creating this excess camber?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but if the spring caused the right rear to sag, it would be lower than the left side, so is the right lower than the left side? Or maybe the left front is higher...Check the height ground to bottom of body through the middle of the wheel, should be close each side front and rear.

Macoyle

Ok here's the measurements
Front left 14.5
Front right 15
Rear both sides 14

Macoyle

Car was never in a a real accident, it was backed into in a parking lot and the bumper and one headlight was replaced. So I'm not sure what's up. I'm thinkin the rear springs and shocks may be worn out, and the front struts could probably be replaced as well.

Fuel tank is full also

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Not certain as to where the numbers came from as ground to body would be around 26", but as there is no outstanding difference in the measurements listed, I'd say the springs, which will cause the car to sag if weak, and shocks are fine. If any of the bushing have weakened and allowed movement, you'll not be able to feel looseness in the suspension when testing, so rather than spending the bucks on suspension components, just get the camber kit, have it installed and you'll be good to go.

Macoyle

the measurements were from the center of the wheel to the body, I found a stock suspension setup for $100 bucks, so I may as well go that route first to get a newer suspension and then if that doesn't fix it ill order the camber kit. Ill also have a better look at all of the bushings etc when Im replacing the strut assemblies. I just know its not supposed to be this way in factory form, so I would prefer to find the culprit that is causing this instead of going the camber kit right off the bat that may potentially cover up something that needs replacing anyway. thanks for all the help guys

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I'll bet it's not the shocks/springs, waste of money.

Macoyle

It may very well to be, but with the amount of miles and they do feel somewhat worn out they could be replaced, won't hurt anything. I wasn't dismissing any of the useful stuff that was recommended even though it may appear that way, I'm merely figuring the car would probably benefit from a newer suspension set up anyway, so I'll try that first since its fairly cheap. If not then I'll buy a camber kit. I'll start researching those to see what the cheapest ones are and what most folks recommend, either the ball joint or new arm version.