So the other day I was trying to install my rear camber kit (SPC) but couldnt even pop out the oem ball joint. I successfully removed the nut that was on the bottom side of the rear camber kit and also the safety pin. I placed my ball joint remover in between the the joint and tried to pry it out. but no matter how hard i tried it didnt even budge.

here is the saftey pin and the ball joint nut that i had removed


Am i missing something?

i havent remove the arm bolts from the back as well and it still did not pop out


i used this tuning fork


when i propped the tuning fork into the ball joint... i literally bashed it and even tried stepping on the tuning fork but it didn't seem to budge at all


got the pictures and instructions from ... if anyone could help me out here?
oh and sorry just realized i should of put this in problem and fixes section. if mods want to move it they can lol

 

First off, sorry to say it, this is one big reason we prefer the Ingalls camber kits.

Secondly, there is another technique that works pretty well for removing these ball joints.


1- remove the clip and unscrew the castle-nut to reveal about 1/4" of threads between the knuckle and the nut.
2- get a long bar or something to pry up the arm you are trying to remove. Just need to put some upward pressure on it, like you are trying to pop it out.
3- while you are prying up on the arm, take your hammer and hit the knuckle here (there is a bump cast into the part you can whack):

4- the ball joint should pop out after a few good whacks but still be captured by the nut. Remove the nut, arm is free.


Basically you need to just give a slight upward pressure on the arm while you beat the knuckle with the hammer. The shock from hitting the knuckle where the ball-joint sits will loosen it which will allow you to pop it out. You keep the nut on a little for two reasons: 1, to protect the ball-joint threads in case you hit the stud with the hammer, and 2, to control the arm as it flies out of the knuckle. You don't wanna get hurt

 

Leave the nut on as stated above, to keep the unit from falling when the joint is removed.

If you can, put the bar under the arm, as close to the joint as possible, and then lay it over the spindle, or part from which the joint is being remove, then whack the part that surrounds the tapered shaft of the joint, e.g. bump cast, with a hammer while exerting downward pressure on the end of the bar.

You can always pound in the fork as the joint is now history, then with a hammer, hit the side of the spindle, bump cast, where the tapered shaft resides while pressing down on the end of the fork, just not much leverage as the fork isn't very long. Using a fork sometimes requires a lot of pounding to get the shaft out, so don't hold back, pound the living daylights out of it.

 

That is why i bought the ingalls kit. It was super was to install. And the alignment shop loved that it was super easy to adjust too.