New Shock Tower Bar from Fastline Performance, EDFC compatible, 1-piece steel!
#1
New Shock Tower Bar from Fastline Performance, EDFC compatible, 1-piece steel!
We have a strut brace for edfc that needs to be test fitted before production. Before anyone mentions any other one that is out, this one we have will eat it for lunch. Mega beefy one piece steel construction, round tube with clips for engine covers, hand tig welded stainless w satin finish, polished or stealthy black finish optional.
But we need a test fitter! Call 949-295-1668! Have you in an out in 20 min!
Marcus
But we need a test fitter! Call 949-295-1668! Have you in an out in 20 min!
Marcus
#3
what does test fitting entail? Do I get to try it out for a month? Or do you guys just unbolt mine and bolt the new one to see if it fits and then bolt mine back? I'm actually in RSM too so I'm real close and might be interested in this.
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#19
Here is a comparo of FLP bar with the stock bar.
OD on the stock bar is 45mm and on the FLP bar it is 42mm. The smaller because the wall thickness of the tubing limits the amount of bending we can do. A larger dia bar will wrinkle if we bend it like this. Still the smaller dia tube is much stronger in this case because the wall thickness is so much bigger. I didn't measure the stock one but the FLP tubing is .095" wall thickness. That's 2.4mm!
Stock brace is puny; thin sheet metal. Strong enough from the factory but higher spring rates and stress of harder driving require something more heavy duty. The plates are 6mm thick. This thing is beefy.
Here you can see the effect of the extra metal:
3.3lbs versus 7.1. Now a lot of nitpickers and naysayers would like to complain about. "Weight is the enemy." This is true but I personally believe that mass has its place. On a part like this, strength is the most important thing. We are not adding unsprung weight, and in the global scheme of things the increase is less than 4 lbs. I think the mass of this bar is a better indicator of the increase in rigidity you'd see over stock. We didn't build this bar JUST so you could run an EDFC. We built it to be BETTER than the original equipment!
The innermost nut contacts the bar so this will be relieved in production.
There is slight interference with the passenger side outer edge and the AC line bracket so we will be squaring off the end to make it a little easier to fit. The test fit allowed the brace to be installed but we want it a little more perfect.
Unfortunately Scott didn't have his engine covers in stalled. But if someone else wants to test fit the bar before the meet coming up in El Monte and they plan on attending the meet I will get a special deal to them of they want to buy a final product!
Pricing, we are going to work that up next. Our target price is $200 or so. I don't really want to run over but considering the flanges will be laser cut and the bending isn't cheap and neither in stainless, I am not sure how realistic it is. Other alternative would be making the bar in aluminum. But the bending will make that complicated too...this seems like the best bet for us!
OD on the stock bar is 45mm and on the FLP bar it is 42mm. The smaller because the wall thickness of the tubing limits the amount of bending we can do. A larger dia bar will wrinkle if we bend it like this. Still the smaller dia tube is much stronger in this case because the wall thickness is so much bigger. I didn't measure the stock one but the FLP tubing is .095" wall thickness. That's 2.4mm!
Stock brace is puny; thin sheet metal. Strong enough from the factory but higher spring rates and stress of harder driving require something more heavy duty. The plates are 6mm thick. This thing is beefy.
Here you can see the effect of the extra metal:
3.3lbs versus 7.1. Now a lot of nitpickers and naysayers would like to complain about. "Weight is the enemy." This is true but I personally believe that mass has its place. On a part like this, strength is the most important thing. We are not adding unsprung weight, and in the global scheme of things the increase is less than 4 lbs. I think the mass of this bar is a better indicator of the increase in rigidity you'd see over stock. We didn't build this bar JUST so you could run an EDFC. We built it to be BETTER than the original equipment!
The innermost nut contacts the bar so this will be relieved in production.
There is slight interference with the passenger side outer edge and the AC line bracket so we will be squaring off the end to make it a little easier to fit. The test fit allowed the brace to be installed but we want it a little more perfect.
Unfortunately Scott didn't have his engine covers in stalled. But if someone else wants to test fit the bar before the meet coming up in El Monte and they plan on attending the meet I will get a special deal to them of they want to buy a final product!
Pricing, we are going to work that up next. Our target price is $200 or so. I don't really want to run over but considering the flanges will be laser cut and the bending isn't cheap and neither in stainless, I am not sure how realistic it is. Other alternative would be making the bar in aluminum. But the bending will make that complicated too...this seems like the best bet for us!
#23
I know man a lot of people got the other one. Stupid thing is I wasted a year with Cusco and their lame ass service that amounted to NOTHING. This bar I had made in 3 days, and never even needed a car. First prototype was a 95% perfect fit. We can produce these things as soon as 2 weeks from now. I am working up pricing now.
#25
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I need one of these.
But it looks like the flange is flush with the strut mounting sheet metal. Curious about getting enough of the strut top nut threads engaged.
Also, it looks like a couple of mounting brackets are missing off the prototype. That's probably because it's a prototype.
the bro.
But it looks like the flange is flush with the strut mounting sheet metal. Curious about getting enough of the strut top nut threads engaged.
Also, it looks like a couple of mounting brackets are missing off the prototype. That's probably because it's a prototype.
the bro.
#26
We did tighten it down and there were plenty of threads to get it torqued down safely. I mean, there are 6 fasteners holding the shock in (its a shock tower technically). I'd feel more than confident running this hard.
Although yes the oem chassis brace nuts (the smaller ones) don't thread completely through. The vast majority of the fastening is at the huge shock nuts. We really don't even need the 12mm nuts on the technically.
Although yes the oem chassis brace nuts (the smaller ones) don't thread completely through. The vast majority of the fastening is at the huge shock nuts. We really don't even need the 12mm nuts on the technically.
#27
I drive a Subata.
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what are the benefits of getting this?
sorry i'm noob.
sorry i'm noob.
#28
It is so you can:
A: Install a Tein EDFC on your Tein SS coilover kit for adjustable electronic dampening adjustment, which requires the removal of the stock brace.
B: Increase chassis stiffness in order to improve the handling dynamics of the car.
C: Impress your friends and neighbors.
D: Add it to the list of stuff you have in your sig.
A noob? You got like 4x as many posts as I do! Haha!
A: Install a Tein EDFC on your Tein SS coilover kit for adjustable electronic dampening adjustment, which requires the removal of the stock brace.
B: Increase chassis stiffness in order to improve the handling dynamics of the car.
C: Impress your friends and neighbors.
D: Add it to the list of stuff you have in your sig.
A noob? You got like 4x as many posts as I do! Haha!
#29
We did tighten it down and there were plenty of threads to get it torqued down safely. I mean, there are 6 fasteners holding the shock in (its a shock tower technically). I'd feel more than confident running this hard.
Although yes the oem chassis brace nuts (the smaller ones) don't thread completely through. The vast majority of the fastening is at the huge shock nuts. We really don't even need the 12mm nuts on the technically.
Although yes the oem chassis brace nuts (the smaller ones) don't thread completely through. The vast majority of the fastening is at the huge shock nuts. We really don't even need the 12mm nuts on the technically.
The auto mfgr uses that many fasteners for a reason..they don't want any possible chance of a major component coming loose (for obvious reasons).
What you are doing is called short bolting and it's really not a good thing to do...read here
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/shortbolting.htm
#31
I don't think people should take chances when it comes to safety.
The auto mfgr uses that many fasteners for a reason..they don't want any possible chance of a major component coming loose (for obvious reasons).
What you are doing is called short bolting and it's really not a good thing to do...read here
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/shortbolting.htm
The auto mfgr uses that many fasteners for a reason..they don't want any possible chance of a major component coming loose (for obvious reasons).
What you are doing is called short bolting and it's really not a good thing to do...read here
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/shortbolting.htm
The 3 Shock mounting nuts are not being "short bolted," the 3 OEM shock tower mounting nuts are. We could just as safely leave them off altogether. The holding ability of the larger nuts far exceeds that of the smaller ones.
The last threads of the larger studs are meeting with the last threads if the nut. It's close, but the fasteners are completely secure, I assure you.
Thanks for the link, it is really good for people to know.
Marcus
#32
Rev High; Drive Happy
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It is so you can:
A: Install a Tein EDFC on your Tein SS coilover kit for adjustable electronic dampening adjustment, which requires the removal of the stock brace.
B: Increase chassis stiffness in order to improve the handling dynamics of the car.
C: Impress your friends and neighbors.
D: Add it to the list of stuff you have in your sig.
A noob? You got like 4x as many posts as I do! Haha!
A: Install a Tein EDFC on your Tein SS coilover kit for adjustable electronic dampening adjustment, which requires the removal of the stock brace.
B: Increase chassis stiffness in order to improve the handling dynamics of the car.
C: Impress your friends and neighbors.
D: Add it to the list of stuff you have in your sig.
A noob? You got like 4x as many posts as I do! Haha!
#35
We are getting a pricing quote back in the next day or two.
We are looking to switch up the stainless material for chromoly. We are hoping the cost won't be much more, and we can go with thinner material that will be stronger, as well as considerably LIGHTER. Then we can expose more threads on the shock studs for folks' peace of mind and.
We are thinking of a few finishes. Black for a stock look, brushed metal, and possibly black chrome if we can get a few people together for a run of that.
Marcus
We are looking to switch up the stainless material for chromoly. We are hoping the cost won't be much more, and we can go with thinner material that will be stronger, as well as considerably LIGHTER. Then we can expose more threads on the shock studs for folks' peace of mind and.
We are thinking of a few finishes. Black for a stock look, brushed metal, and possibly black chrome if we can get a few people together for a run of that.
Marcus