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I have a leaking boot on my driver's side axle. I ordered a replacement from a dealer's online store back in December. It was on back order, and it finally arrived last week. I got the old one out, looked at the new one, and noticed a few differences. Don't know what the rubber piece in the middle of the new one is. I thought about putting the new one in anyway, then I measured them, the new one is about 1.5" too short.
I am annoyed AF, to say the least. I double checked the dealer's website, the part number I ordered is the correct P/N for the left axle. The invoice has the correct part number. A scrap of cardboard with the part number on it was throw into the box. No label/part number on the bag. I don't think I damaged the original piece, but now it's Sunday afternoon, I have to risk driving to work with a suspect axle until they send the correct axle.
Besides ranting about this company's perceived screw up, I wanted to check to see if the left and right axles are interchangeable. I doubt it, but wanted to make sure. Thanks in advance.
^^
The old axle appears to be aftermarket because no 'dynamic damper'.
That new axles is a driverside axle because it has two 'male' splined ends, the passengerside has one 'female' end for the intermediate shaft connection.
As the OP mentions, #4; 44306-SEP-A02 is the correct part # for the 2004 6MT driverside axle.
It didn't come in a OEM box. Came from somewhere else.
The parts catalogs I've seen online don't show a dynamic dampener on either side.
Seems odd that the near one is 1.5" shorter in length. I tried to compress the old unit as much as I could, and it never got to the same length as the new one.
I recently bought new OEM driveshafts and can say that these appear to be OEM; regardless of the packaging it came in (which was probably different just to help with shipping); it does have the OEM sticker/label and a few key items that support this: the dynamic balancer, the different boot materials for inboard and outboard boots; and the new (rather than reconditioned) joint components.
The driveshaft you had on previously clearly was an aftermarket part; I would not use that to determine the quality/fit of a new OEM part; go to the service manual to get the specs for the length; confirm it's within spec and install.
The aftermarket axle may be designed to fit automatic and manual transmissions or multiple different chassis'...so maybe that's why its longer? just guessing
Or maybe you seperated the old one while pulling it out?
It does look seperated...but its hard to tell. If you pulled on it AT ALL during removal...you almost 100% for sure seperated it.
Anyway...why the secrets? Did you order your new part from a Honda/Acura dealer? or?
Since it appears there is a one inch difference between the Auto & Manual length, per the vendor website 'Item Demensions', I wonder if the old axle is from an automatic and the one OP received is actually correct for the manual he has because it's shorter?
The aftermarket axle may be designed to fit automatic and manual transmissions or multiple different chassis'...so maybe that's why its longer? just guessing
Or maybe you seperated the old one while pulling it out?
It does look seperated...but its hard to tell. If you pulled on it AT ALL during removal...you almost 100% for sure seperated it.
Anyway...why the secrets? Did you order your new part from a Honda/Acura dealer? or?
I ordered it from OEMacuraparts.com way back in December, and it just arrived late last week.
I had a hard time getting the old axle out, I did pull on it in a desperate attempt to avoid another run to the auto parts store to get more tools.
I ended up putting the old one back in so I could get back & forth to work. Now that I know what I was doing wrong, it shouldn't take too long.
I have APWI and Trakmotive axles from rockauto installed and running for about 3 years now, and they're working just fine. Auto and manual transmission models take different right side axles, so maybe you get a wrong one to begin with?
With these aftermarket relabilities and the magnitude of price difference versus the OEM's, I'll take these aftermarket units any day. The important thing to remember is to NEVER use remanufactured axles. Both Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy and my best bud who owned an auto parts store for 25 years HIGHLY advise against using rebuilt units as they've seen numerous problems with them.
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I have APWI and Trakmotive axles from rockauto installed and running for about 3 years now, and they're working just fine. Auto and manual transmission models take different right side axles, so maybe you get a wrong one to begin with?
With these aftermarket relabilities and the magnitude of price difference versus the OEM's, I'll take these aftermarket units any day. The important thing to remember is to NEVER use remanufactured axles. Both Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy and my best bud who owned an auto parts store for 25 years HIGHLY advise against using rebuilt units as they've seen numerous problems with them.
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I just meant dont trust the measurement reference from an aftermarket part that may have the same part number listed for auto or manual or may have been replaced by someone who didn't put in the right part.
Like...don't use the axle he took out to use as a "standard" for correct length.
It wasn't a comment about quality. I won't go there, as I know its a sensitive topic.
I had the same problem. I replaced both the axles and thought I compared them pretty closely before I installed them. The passenger side axle popped out twice. I got another replacement. It was longer. I compared all three, the original, the first new one, and the second new one. The first new one was about 1/2 inch shorter than the other two. I can’t complain because I looked them up on line and just gave the parts place the part number I wanted. I should have had the parts place look up the part. Then it would have been their problem.
I had a hell of a time getting the passenger side axle out. I found a video that looked promising. I made a slide hammer tool with a vice grip, a four foot piece of 3/8 threaded steel rod, the head of a sledge hammer, and a few nuts and washers. Worked great.
A long crowbar works great to angle behind the passenger axle and hammer out. Whatever you use will slightly damage the metal of the axle, so plan accordingly such as covering the tip of the bar if you have to re use.
I have APWI and Trakmotive axles from rockauto installed and running for about 3 years now, and they're working just fine. Auto and manual transmission models take different right side axles, so maybe you get a wrong one to begin with?
With these aftermarket relabilities and the magnitude of price difference versus the OEM's, I'll take these aftermarket units any day. The important thing to remember is to NEVER use remanufactured axles. Both Paul, our star master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy and my best bud who owned an auto parts store for 25 years HIGHLY advise against using rebuilt units as they've seen numerous problems with them.
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I am rocking the APWI for front right(passenger) install went smoothly, heard clicking going on the streets right after install, picked up speed on the freeway and the sound is now gone, was worried at first but after one day, it seems to be working out fine, will report back in a few months. NOW gotta replace my tein street advance coil overs. they squeeky after 100k miles on em.
01-30-2022, 03:41 PM
New axle not same as old axle?!?!
