Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys so i have my Koni Yellows in the garage waiting to be installed this coming Monday. Is there any good info or tips or tricks for this install, and thing to watch out for? Im new to the Shock world, i read i should put the setting on the least firm for 1k miles to break in the shock, is that true? Also people are talking about Perch settings, is that referring to the Stiffness setting on the shocks? There is 3 perch setting right? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

If it just Koni Yellow it only has 3 perches; if it was Koni Yellow SP3 it has 5 perches. It takes about 1,000 miles or so to break in. I put my on firm and it is basically similar to stock (slightly harsher ride). Stiffness in shock and ride. The stiffer it is, the more 'bumps' feel when you're inside the car. The stiffer it is, the better performance at higher speeds. I'd look over the DIY, especially the part in taking the back seat. Everything else is pretty easy/explanatory. Good luck!

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

don't snap any fork pinch bolts

TheDingo

You don't have to have the shock on full stiff or soft for a "break in" period. There are 2 perches in the front and 5 in the rear. Cut about an inch or so off of the bump stops to compensate for the loss in height. Also, I had to make the hole in the top hat a bit larger with a grinder to fit the top of the shock in there. Other than that it's a pretty straight forward install. It's not hard, just a bit time consuming. No worries.

ABP_04TL

iTrader: (2)

Had that setup b4 and its pretty good, drop it like its hot OP

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

here was my troubles on the install:
http://googtl.acurazine.com/forums/s...d.php?t=837206

Jbat

when taking off the back seat, you don't need to take the two hidden bolts in the back out completely, just loosen them and the seat will lift up off of them after removing the lower bolts.

Bearcat94

D-091: DIY:Front and rear damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fm-modulators-group-purchase-173827/ - Service Manual Scans
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-ht-spec-coilver-install-dummies-any-other-suspension-3g-garage-d-091-a-816065/ - w/Pics and including Rear Seat Removal

F-070: DIY: How to remove the back seats to put the suspension?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107568

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

OKay so im going to start my project in a few hours, any suspension GURU who could pm me their Cell phone # incase i have a question or something i run into would be awesome! Thanks in advance!

Also why does Koni recommend you NOT to lower that clip retainer pin, if i want to drop my car lower ( right now its in the middle & there is a upper and lower place to put this clip, on the shock.), if i already iam lowered with my Tein S Tech springs.?

Bearcat94

It's because of the idea that if you have lowering springs AND then you use the shock for lowering as well you will limit the shock travel too much and bottom out, increase shock wear, etc.

However if your lowering springs are just a modest drop, you should be fine on the lower perch, IMO.


You're going to have to drill out your stock bushings to fit over the damper rod (not sure if that was mentioned or not).

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

with my tein s tech springs, will i need to remove that weld on the shock? the spring is slop right now, as if i have to grind off that weld on the shock! Help please!

Bearcat94

Any luck with this?




Edit:

Justinspace did his Koni's not too long ago. He may be able to help via PM.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

so i got the install done. i took it for a test drive now i hear clunking in the rear when i go over bumps. I have the front on the lowest perch also the rear in the lowest perch. The rear springs i literally do not need the spring compressor to get the top hats on or off , the spring has a "little" slop in the rear, and i believe that is why im hearing this clunking noise from the rear, i had a friend sit in the back while i drove and the clunking noise happened less frequently. I dont understand why these shocks wouldnt have a longer thread for the top hat to be secured down lower, to help compress the shock more. Next week i will be setting the rear perch setting to the middle again. But in the middle setting i still wont even need the shock compressor to get the top hat off.... i dont get it. i figured the weight of the car would compress the spring when i installed it like that but apparently not enough. I have a mild drop Tein S Tech, i thought these shocks where made for dropped cars.?

Fyi why where people knocking off the spot weld?

94eg!

You definitely don't want to use the "lowered" perch setting WITH lowering springs. The guys at Koni say this a lot. They are only meant to lower the car with the OEM springs.

The noise is not from having your springs come unloaded at full droop. Anyone with coilover sleeves can tell you this is a normal condition. This is completely normal depending on the rate of the spring being used in conjunction with a "normal" length shock cylinder & rod. The stiffer the spring, the shorter it has to be, especially to get a lowered ride height. I've had coilover sleeves on my Civic for like 12 years now and they always fall loose when I jack the car up (by 1+ inches) with no noise while driving. The rattling is coming from somewhere else.

Here is a pic of my Konis + Ground Control sleeves for my Civic. You can see how much extra droop I have with the shocks at full extension. And if I didn't have that extended top hat, I would have almost another full inch of unsprung droop in the front.

TRIOD3SIGNS

I have had the yellows on for almost 2 years. I was never able to get rid of the metal clunking. Also make sure you tighten everything extra MF'ing tight or you will get this.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/help-loud-bump-bang-now-car-sits-4-inches-lower-776471/

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

So the rattle is normal or not? you are saying 2 different things in your paragraph?

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

[quote=TRIOD3SIGNS;13669577]I have had the yellows on for almost 2 years. I was never able to get rid of the metal clunking. Also make sure you tighten everything extra MF'ing tight or you will get this.

so you still have the clunking problem? I dont have dimples on my shocks, the fronts have a slot which slides into a groove on the front control arm which is lined up. but i dont have a problem with the fronts anyways, its just the rears.

94eg!

No the noise is not normal. The spring droop is normal. Springs will not become fully un-loaded unless you jack the car up off the ground.

Typically a clunk over bumps points to sway-bar end links.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

THe picture of the car is with the front on the lowest perch and the rear in the middle perch

So the installation went well for the most part, but can someone tell me why i read of people knocking off that weld on the shock shaft? So after me having the clunking i checked and re tighten every, also moved the rear back to the middle Perch how the shock came. I didn't have the Washer spacers on the drivers side rear where the lower shock bolt goes through the shock, so i put them in when i rechecked everything. i forgot to put it on initially on the drivers side rear after that shock was installed and didnt want to take it out again after just putting it in, but ended up doing it right in the end. I dont know what made the difference but for the little bit i drove it, the clunking noise seemed to have diminished, but i will tell as i drive it a bit more. I believe the clunking noise was coming from the perch setting being on the lowest, but in a few days if it still isnt clunking i will put it back on the lowest to see what happens. the front is on the lowest so i would like the rears to be on the lowest to compliment the fronts, but if it starts clunking from the perch on the rear being the lowest i will then move them back to the middle. I like the look of the car being on the lowest perch all the way around because i think the drop looks the best that way. in a week i should have a alignment done. FYI dropping it one perch setting lowers it .5"

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

So after driving my car around a bit the rear drivers side is now sitting down about a .5" compared to rear passenger!!! WTF?? I thought maybe the snap ring broke or something so i drove the car back home, there wasnt any odd noises or anything, when i go home i jacked up the car but the snap ring is still in place in the middle perch setting just like the rear passenger, i also double checked all my connections and they where all tight. After i put the tires back on and lowereed back down the car it was not low like before, I popped the trunk and bounced the car up and down & side to side and nothing happened, the rear was at the same height, but when I Drove back to work 1.5 miles away from my house and the driver side rear is now again sitting low. What gives? WHY did this happen? Both rear springs are in the same position where they should be. Why would one side drop a .5" like this! PLEASE HELP!!!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you knock off the tab to allow the koni to sit lower in the control arm to get full suspension travel.

or at least, thats the way I understand it.
94eg! can explain it way better than I can.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

The problem is in the rear of the car not the front.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Its a difference of 1.4" not .5" like intially stated. Please help!

Passenger side rear

Drivers side Rear

94eg!

Are you certain the spring is fully seating in the upper hat with the car on the ground (don't put your hands in there to check)?

Since my Civic springs droop (as shown above), occasionally one spring can get hung up as I put the car back on the ground. Usually you get a loud pop as the spring jumps into place, but occasionally it just stays hung up and the ride height looks all screwy.

Bearcat94

Dumb question: Are you sure the spring perch on the higher side isn't upside down?

It's happened before.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Nope its the same... So with the car not sitting right, i took it for a spirited run after work to a certain destination about 9 miles away, when i parked i noticed that the rear was now sitting the same on both sides, at the normal height for the middle perch, i dont know what changed or what happend... strange.... i drove it back home and jacked the rear up and proceeded to move the the perch clip back to the bottom, where i want it. Dropped the car and the car is sitting where it should for all the shocks being on the lowest perch setting, i took the car for another run NO CLUNKING and everything seemed good!!!!! W00T W00T. Hopefully it stays this way, and i will be getting a alignment soon, and ill snap a couple of pictures, the car looks damn nice. IM so happy now with the no clunking and the car sitting LOW. I cant wait till 1k miles are up then i will stiffen these shocks all the way! Cant WAIT!! Thanks for everyones help!

Inaccurate

The height difference is most likely from the driveway being uneven. What appears to be a smooth level surface to the eye can still have waviness of the amount that you are measuring.

Kobeone

Any change?

ShadowAcura

in for the updated {pictures

TheDingo

^ +1

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

So when i drop the car from having it jacked up in the rear, the rear sits up higher, when i drive 2.5 miles to work I have a semi steep approach that i angle my car (the approach is a left hand turn) really good and the car doesn't bottom out, but when i park at work and check the height difference in the rear so far the left side has always been lower than the other. When i leave work and go 9 miles one way to pickup my kid the car levels itself back out. Today i came into work and the car did the same shit! One side is higher than the other now, but only by a .5" right now. I know for certain everything is installed correctly and everything is tight! I don't understand whats happening, its like the shock is hanging up or something like its a faulty shock? And yes the Valving on the shocks are set to the softest setting all the way around. Please Advise.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

This.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^you're on an incline, sir.

get it on level ground.
if measuring on my inclined driveway, one side will be lower than the other.
when i'm in the garage, all sides are even.

you even said it your self.
"when i get to work, its uneven."
"when I go home, its perfect"

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but to be off over 1 full Inch? I dont recall ever seeing that with just my spring drop. Are the shocks that way that they would show the difference like that? Its kinda weird... Im not doubting just trying to be educated. I dont recall seeing other peoples car being angled like that when they are parked. Is it because im so low now?

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Well like i said i would provide pictures of the aftermath... To say the least the drop is just where i Finally want it to be! Probably next year i will be getting 18" or 19" not sure yet, and will keep the type s rims just for my winter tires. Here are a few OK shots, its hard to get good shots because the lighting and the black abyss in my wheel well doesn't show the drop so well. But here you go. FYI no rub.

ATLS_666

Any plans to make the rims more flush

Otacon

iTrader: (1)

Car is looking good.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

yes i will be getting rims sometime in the next year or so, i plan on having 8.5 in the front & 9.5 in the rear, i will probably end up going with 18" because i dont want to struggle with rubbing and fender rolling, if i could get away with 19" i would rather do that but im afraid with my drop that i will be rubbing and having problems in regards to that especially with 19" what do you think? I kinda like where the fronts sits as far as flush with the fender, but yes i think the rears could be kicked out a little more

mY sLOW UA6

Looks good