Just ordered my Konis and H&R springs
#7
All Around Klown
Thread Starter
shox.com... was gonna order from tirerack but shox was cheaper
YOU HUSH!!!! lol
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TheDingo (05-15-2013)
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#8
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EJ, you'll like the H&R's. When I need shocks, I'll get Koni's too.
#9
All Around Klown
Thread Starter
I'm all about the deals... lol
For anyone that already has Koni shocks, what setting are you running? I want about 25-50% stiffer over stock... and are you using the lowest perch setting?
Last edited by EvilJoker; 05-15-2013 at 12:05 AM.
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EvilJoker (05-15-2013)
#12
Safety Car
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So im looking at this picture and trying to figure out why it looks different than my setup even though we both have the same new H&R Sports. So that appears to be a picture of the rear assembly, but comparing to a picture I took of mine from a post I made, do we have our springs oriented 180 degrees differently? Call me crazy, but it appears you have your spring installed upside down. I have no clue if this makes a difference, but you would think it does. Compare your picture to mine from the exact same side. I have the large spaced coils on the bottom (how the stock springs were oriented and H&R letters right side up, you have the tightly spaced coils on the bottom with H&R letters upside down).
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Legitka9 (05-16-2013)
#13
Three Wheelin'
So im looking at this picture and trying to figure out why it looks different than my setup even though we both have the same new H&R Sports. So that appears to be a picture of the rear assembly, but comparing to a picture I took of mine from a post I made, do we have our springs oriented 180 degrees differently? Call me crazy, but it appears you have your spring installed upside down. I have no clue if this makes a difference, but you would think it does. Compare your picture to mine from the exact same side. I have the large spaced coils on the bottom (how the stock springs were oriented and H&R letters right side up, you have the tightly spaced coils on the bottom with H&R letters upside down).
That's because yours are installed correctly. At least according to HR. Not sure it makes much of a difference though.
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Legitka9 (05-16-2013)
#14
Three Wheelin'
#16
-------Tim-------
Yes. Legitka it looks like they are upside down, in the rear. We (I) posted this in another thread. I thought you swapped them, but maybe not. On my car the tighter coils are at the top.
Full stiff?! Yeah, that's gotta be rough. I've only had mine full stiff for a few miles, then back to 1 1/4 turns from full soft. Still messing with the damping.....
Full stiff?! Yeah, that's gotta be rough. I've only had mine full stiff for a few miles, then back to 1 1/4 turns from full soft. Still messing with the damping.....
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Legitka9 (05-16-2013)
#19
Instructor
I can't remember where I usually see the dead coils. With my B+G springs on my probe I'm pretty sure the dead coils were at the bottom...on my brother's mustang (with H&Rs) I think they were at the top. I think I'd probably assume that they should be installed with the brand name right side up.
I've also read on these forums that running full soft (on the Koni's) is best for the break-in period or 1000 miles. When I install mine, I plan on running middle/high perch (f/r) for the shocks while I break them in. If i want it lower after settling/break-in, I will drop the front perch and rear perch accordingly and stiffen up the shocks.
Also, I purchased everything from tunersports dot com, he price matched the springs from thmotorsports dot com and had a sick discount on the Koni's plus the SpringSavings discount code.
I've also read on these forums that running full soft (on the Koni's) is best for the break-in period or 1000 miles. When I install mine, I plan on running middle/high perch (f/r) for the shocks while I break them in. If i want it lower after settling/break-in, I will drop the front perch and rear perch accordingly and stiffen up the shocks.
Also, I purchased everything from tunersports dot com, he price matched the springs from thmotorsports dot com and had a sick discount on the Koni's plus the SpringSavings discount code.
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geekybiker (05-16-2013)
#22
All Around Klown
Thread Starter
I've also read on these forums that running full soft (on the Koni's) is best for the break-in period or 1000 miles. When I install mine, I plan on running middle/high perch (f/r) for the shocks while I break them in. If i want it lower after settling/break-in, I will drop the front perch and rear perch accordingly and stiffen up the shocks.
#23
Team Owner
Most people that use Koni or just about any shock in the racing world break them in on full soft. You're breaking the sealing rings in easier with less pressure and you're breaking in the full rod travel before putting them on firm.
Those of you going full stiff on mild springs like the H&Rs are not improving performance, you're just making it ride unnecessarily uncomfortably. The firmness should be matched to the spring rate. When I had stock springs I very rarely had them more than 1/4 of the way up. It was too much damping and would cause the car to skip over bumps at the limit above 1/4. With a spec springs I turned them up a little. Now that my springs are significantly stiffer especially the rears, I run the shocks a little over halfway in the rears, about halfway in the fronts. They were fine tuned to give the turn-in that I prefer. Even when I used to track it I never put them on full firm.
The best way to set them is to take the car to a stretch of road that has some bumps and stiffen unit it begins skipping over the bumps (while cornering hard) with the tires losing contact with the asphalt because the shocks are over damping. If stiff enough, especially with stock springs you can have the car "jack down" under braking but especially over bumps.
Those of you going full stiff on mild springs like the H&Rs are not improving performance, you're just making it ride unnecessarily uncomfortably. The firmness should be matched to the spring rate. When I had stock springs I very rarely had them more than 1/4 of the way up. It was too much damping and would cause the car to skip over bumps at the limit above 1/4. With a spec springs I turned them up a little. Now that my springs are significantly stiffer especially the rears, I run the shocks a little over halfway in the rears, about halfway in the fronts. They were fine tuned to give the turn-in that I prefer. Even when I used to track it I never put them on full firm.
The best way to set them is to take the car to a stretch of road that has some bumps and stiffen unit it begins skipping over the bumps (while cornering hard) with the tires losing contact with the asphalt because the shocks are over damping. If stiff enough, especially with stock springs you can have the car "jack down" under braking but especially over bumps.
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ATLS_666 (05-22-2013)
#24
-------Tim-------
^I have yet to figure out what spring rate the H&R sports are.? Do they compare at all with the a-spec springs? Stiffer? Softer? I have the Koni's set at 1 1/4 F, 1 1/2 R from full soft. Rides pretty good, but have read a lot about the "jacking down" effect. I don't think I am experiencing this yet, but am in for any info you can provide!
#25
Team Owner
^I have yet to figure out what spring rate the H&R sports are.? Do they compare at all with the a-spec springs? Stiffer? Softer? I have the Koni's set at 1 1/4 F, 1 1/2 R from full soft. Rides pretty good, but have read a lot about the "jacking down" effect. I don't think I am experiencing this yet, but am in for any info you can provide!
Jacking down is when the rebound stiffness is so high in comparison to the springs that if the car hits a series of bumps quickly the spring compresses but doesn't have time to decompress before the next bump due to the shock holding it back. The next bump hits and compresses it even more and so on. The car literally "jacks down" to the bumpstops sometimes. It doesn't happen easily, the shocks have to be seriously over damping the springs and chassis but Konis on full firm and stock or near stock is a likely candidate.
You'll feel the car wanting to skip over bumps instead of absorbing them. If you've ever driven a RWD car with a live axle around corners even a little hard you'll know what I mean. My turbo car's rear end will skip slightly when I hit bumps mid corner even though it's not near it's limit. It's the tires losing contact as they bounce over bumps and momentarily lose contact with the road. If the car feels twitchy over bumps when you're cornering harder than normal you might want to soften the shocks.
What you want from your shocks is no excess body or suspension movement. You want the car to take a set in a corner as quickly as possible. The springs and swaybars determine body roll, the shocks determine how quickly it makes it to fully body roll and stabilizes, the point at which the car has settled into the corner. Once you've achieved this, additional damping won't help much other than to fine tune it's behavior. Stiffer springs, heavier cars, and heavier unsprung mass needs more damping.
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Slpr04UA6 (05-22-2013)
#26
Three Wheelin'
^I have yet to figure out what spring rate the H&R sports are.? Do they compare at all with the a-spec springs? Stiffer? Softer? I have the Koni's set at 1 1/4 F, 1 1/2 R from full soft. Rides pretty good, but have read a lot about the "jacking down" effect. I don't think I am experiencing this yet, but am in for any info you can provide!
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Legitka9 (05-23-2013)
#29
Banned
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I have the H&R Sport Springs, Koni Yellows, and Ingalls Rear Camber + Toe Kit waiting to be installed this coming week, and I cannot decide where i should set the perch for front and rear. Im either gonna do medium for both, low for front and medium for rear, or low for both. What do most people do with the Konis?
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