Installed A-spec suspension today -- Review/Install notes/Pics inside
04-25-2005, 08:19 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
... the suggested jack point in the rear is in fact in front of the rear wheel well. Just be sure and block off the front wheels when jacking the rear so as not to have any rolling.
Sheesh!
04-28-2005, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
chill
Call Falconi Acura, ask for Scott (Parts Manager) .. Tell them that you want to buy the A-spec springs for $600.00 plus shipping. PM me for details.
Call Falconi Acura, ask for Scott (Parts Manager) .. Tell them that you want to buy the A-spec springs for $600.00 plus shipping. PM me for details.
04-28-2005, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TheNip73
Alrighty, question of the day is how long is this install taking the do-it-yourselfer to do?
04-28-2005, 01:20 PM
#48
Chill --
I cleared out my inbox .. sorry... re-send that PM.
Lore, honestly -- it took me 6hours start to finish. That includes time to jack the car up and back down, removing part of the rear seat, etc.
The longest parts of the install was literally using elbow grease to get those old coilovers out of the car -- there is a certain path that the coilover has to take in order to come out .. and it can be tedious at times (totally do-able however -- do not let this intimidate you)
Then, getting the new coilovers in requires you to take that same path. A little lube will help you get the new coilover bolts in and you're set. If you're truly doing this for the first time like I was .. budget 6 hours.
I cleared out my inbox .. sorry... re-send that PM.
Lore, honestly -- it took me 6hours start to finish. That includes time to jack the car up and back down, removing part of the rear seat, etc.
The longest parts of the install was literally using elbow grease to get those old coilovers out of the car -- there is a certain path that the coilover has to take in order to come out .. and it can be tedious at times (totally do-able however -- do not let this intimidate you)
Then, getting the new coilovers in requires you to take that same path. A little lube will help you get the new coilover bolts in and you're set. If you're truly doing this for the first time like I was .. budget 6 hours.
04-28-2005, 02:48 PM
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Peter - was just going to ask for the e-mail of Scott at Falconi, but no real need anymore...just bought the suspension from Acura of Escondido for $600 on their eBay store...CT RSB for $95, too. Going to get a friend to help with the install since Hendrick wanted to jack me on the install.
04-28-2005, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by chill_dog
Peter - was just going to ask for the e-mail of Scott at Falconi, but no real need anymore...just bought the suspension from Acura of Escondido for $600 on their eBay store...CT RSB for $95, too. Going to get a friend to help with the install since Hendrick wanted to jack me on the install.
04-30-2005, 01:43 AM
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Alright, I've got yet more questions... sorry for hijacking the thread.
I've never done suspension work before, but the instructions seem easy and straight forward. Am I taking an extreme risk? Should I have it done professionally, or would somebody who is slightly mechanically inclined be fine?
If I install the suspension my only concern is with loading the suspension. I just leave the car onjack stands and place the jack under the suspension on the control arm I believe it is called and elevate the jack until there is some give in the suspension, right? I don't need to go the entire length of travel for the suspension, correct?
This one is lame, but how much force is needed to pop out the air bag tab in the rear pillar trim. I decided to try and pop it out tonight in preparation for install and the bugger came out about 1/4 of a centimeter but then felt stuck. I was worried I was going to break it... but knowing these clips they always feel that way. What is the best approach to get this out, how much force, how far out does it go? I'm guessing a larger flathead might give me a little more push/pull action and make things easier.
Thanks in advance! The suspension arrives on Monday with planned install on Saturday or during the week if I can swing it!
TheNip
I've never done suspension work before, but the instructions seem easy and straight forward. Am I taking an extreme risk? Should I have it done professionally, or would somebody who is slightly mechanically inclined be fine?
If I install the suspension my only concern is with loading the suspension. I just leave the car onjack stands and place the jack under the suspension on the control arm I believe it is called and elevate the jack until there is some give in the suspension, right? I don't need to go the entire length of travel for the suspension, correct?
This one is lame, but how much force is needed to pop out the air bag tab in the rear pillar trim. I decided to try and pop it out tonight in preparation for install and the bugger came out about 1/4 of a centimeter but then felt stuck. I was worried I was going to break it... but knowing these clips they always feel that way. What is the best approach to get this out, how much force, how far out does it go? I'm guessing a larger flathead might give me a little more push/pull action and make things easier.
Thanks in advance! The suspension arrives on Monday with planned install on Saturday or during the week if I can swing it!
TheNip
04-30-2005, 09:28 AM
#53
1) It is straightforward...it'll take some elbow grease, but there is nothing mechanically complex about it, I promise.
2) You need all the tools we've mentioned in this thread (also listed in the instructions)
3) When you load the suspension, you are CORRECT in saying that you only have to load the suspension about the level of where the rotor was when it was sitting on the ground w/ the rim on .. not all the way -- the goal is to eliminate any gaps b/w the coilover and the car so you don't have "give" when you hit uneven pavement during cruising.
4) That airbag tab .. it happens w/ all of us .. it'll come out a little b/w you've just freed these two tabs on either side of the rectangle ... but there is a circular pin clip that is in the center that is locked into a plastic anchor (and subsquently into the car's metal frame). You need to now take some pliers and first wrap some thin fabric around the airbag clip, then grasp one side of the clip w/ the pliers and lever it out. It's come out, I promise -- and you won't break anything related to the air bag.
Lemme know if you have any other q's for us.
2) You need all the tools we've mentioned in this thread (also listed in the instructions)
3) When you load the suspension, you are CORRECT in saying that you only have to load the suspension about the level of where the rotor was when it was sitting on the ground w/ the rim on .. not all the way -- the goal is to eliminate any gaps b/w the coilover and the car so you don't have "give" when you hit uneven pavement during cruising.
4) That airbag tab .. it happens w/ all of us .. it'll come out a little b/w you've just freed these two tabs on either side of the rectangle ... but there is a circular pin clip that is in the center that is locked into a plastic anchor (and subsquently into the car's metal frame). You need to now take some pliers and first wrap some thin fabric around the airbag clip, then grasp one side of the clip w/ the pliers and lever it out. It's come out, I promise -- and you won't break anything related to the air bag.
Lemme know if you have any other q's for us.
04-30-2005, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
1) It is straightforward...it'll take some elbow grease, but there is nothing mechanically complex about it, I promise.
2) You need all the tools we've mentioned in this thread (also listed in the instructions)
3) When you load the suspension, you are CORRECT in saying that you only have to load the suspension about the level of where the rotor was when it was sitting on the ground w/ the rim on .. not all the way -- the goal is to eliminate any gaps b/w the coilover and the car so you don't have "give" when you hit uneven pavement during cruising.
4) That airbag tab .. it happens w/ all of us .. it'll come out a little b/w you've just freed these two tabs on either side of the rectangle ... but there is a circular pin clip that is in the center that is locked into a plastic anchor (and subsquently into the car's metal frame). You need to now take some pliers and first wrap some thin fabric around the airbag clip, then grasp one side of the clip w/ the pliers and lever it out. It's come out, I promise -- and you won't break anything related to the air bag.
Lemme know if you have any other q's for us.
2) You need all the tools we've mentioned in this thread (also listed in the instructions)
3) When you load the suspension, you are CORRECT in saying that you only have to load the suspension about the level of where the rotor was when it was sitting on the ground w/ the rim on .. not all the way -- the goal is to eliminate any gaps b/w the coilover and the car so you don't have "give" when you hit uneven pavement during cruising.
4) That airbag tab .. it happens w/ all of us .. it'll come out a little b/w you've just freed these two tabs on either side of the rectangle ... but there is a circular pin clip that is in the center that is locked into a plastic anchor (and subsquently into the car's metal frame). You need to now take some pliers and first wrap some thin fabric around the airbag clip, then grasp one side of the clip w/ the pliers and lever it out. It's come out, I promise -- and you won't break anything related to the air bag.
Lemme know if you have any other q's for us.
If I have some more q's I'll let you know.
Thanks again!
TheNip
04-30-2005, 01:24 PM
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You don't need to remove the rear deck for the A-Spec installation. You could just use a socket wrench with a large socket and you will be able to access both the front and rear nuts on the rear suspension arms.
But, if you are gung-ho about removing the tab, try this out. Remove the rear door weather stripping (it's comes off very easily) and you should be able to see through the back of the C-pillar trim. Then take a screwdriver and poke at the clip that's resisting. Once you push that in, you can pull the tab out from the front side very easily.
But, if you are gung-ho about removing the tab, try this out. Remove the rear door weather stripping (it's comes off very easily) and you should be able to see through the back of the C-pillar trim. Then take a screwdriver and poke at the clip that's resisting. Once you push that in, you can pull the tab out from the front side very easily.
05-02-2005, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
3) When you load the suspension, you are CORRECT in saying that you only have to load the suspension about the level of where the rotor was when it was sitting on the ground w/ the rim on .. not all the way -- the goal is to eliminate any gaps b/w the coilover and the car so you don't have "give" when you hit uneven pavement during cruising.
). Hitting up dad's toolbox later this week...have some, but not all. Now, about loading, should I measure this or is eyeballing ok?EMF - Scott was awesome. I had a couple of questions since I was getting two things from them, and he answered them very quickly (I was kind of surprised). Shipped the parts the day after I ordered.
05-02-2005, 10:55 AM
#58
Loading: Eyeballing it is fine .. if you really wanna be precise, get some masking tape and mark the center of the rim (while the car is on the ground) on the side panels of the car .. then you'll know exactly when you've "loaded the car w/ it's weight."
W/ two people working .. it'll go fast. Just make sure you wear some gloves and have plenty of lubricating/penetrating oil or WD-40 on hand ..
W/ two people working .. it'll go fast. Just make sure you wear some gloves and have plenty of lubricating/penetrating oil or WD-40 on hand ..
05-02-2005, 02:50 PM
#60
No grease necessary (check your PM), just WD-40 and/or lubricating/penetrating machine oil.
Just make sure you're using Metric sockets/wrenches ... even though various SAE sockets and wrenches will be near perfect fits for some of the bolts. B/C if it IS in fact stubborn, you may round over the bolt.
Chill -- how many miles are on your car? I had 27,000 when I installed my Aspec suspension 2 weeks ago ... and the bolts were not that rusty at all... but it did require a little penetrating oil -- I let it soak for a while as I watched the new Pope get inaugurated on TV.
Plus, I've been through a heavy winter already w/ my TL .. so that would have added to any potential rust.
Just make sure you're using Metric sockets/wrenches ... even though various SAE sockets and wrenches will be near perfect fits for some of the bolts. B/C if it IS in fact stubborn, you may round over the bolt.
Chill -- how many miles are on your car? I had 27,000 when I installed my Aspec suspension 2 weeks ago ... and the bolts were not that rusty at all... but it did require a little penetrating oil -- I let it soak for a while as I watched the new Pope get inaugurated on TV.
Plus, I've been through a heavy winter already w/ my TL .. so that would have added to any potential rust.
05-02-2005, 03:12 PM
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7,900 miles and one mild, southern winter. I have both WD-40 and some penetrating oil, so it sounds like I should be good...just have to get the metric tools...between friends and family, I'm sure what I need is around. If not, I'll just buy whatever...can never have too many tools!
05-02-2005, 06:55 PM
#63
is learning to moonwalk i
Peter - congrats on the install and thanks for all of the info. The fact that you did the install by yourself in 6 hours is very commendable, especially considering that the two Acura shops I called wanted to charge 5-6 hours of labor for installing the suspension. Unless I find a more reasonable shope for the install, I might just have to settle for just the CT RSB.
One question about the ride, if you don't mind. You said that in general, the ride is as good or better. My question is do you find yourself having to slow down any more when going into or out of driveways. Even though the drop was only about 1/2 inch on your car, the scraping when going over driveways and gutters makes me a little hesitant to do the A-Spec install.
Again, congrats and thanks.
One question about the ride, if you don't mind. You said that in general, the ride is as good or better. My question is do you find yourself having to slow down any more when going into or out of driveways. Even though the drop was only about 1/2 inch on your car, the scraping when going over driveways and gutters makes me a little hesitant to do the A-Spec install.
Again, congrats and thanks.
05-02-2005, 07:45 PM
#64
Originally Posted by moeronn
One question about the ride, if you don't mind. You said that in general, the ride is as good or better. My question is do you find yourself having to slow down any more when going into or out of driveways. Even though the drop was only about 1/2 inch on your car, the scraping when going over driveways and gutters makes me a little hesitant to do the A-Spec install.
Thanks! Here's some answers to your q's (I don't mind at all .. please post all q's .. if I don't know the answer, there are tons of knowledgeable people on this forum who may know it)
1) I do NOT slow down any more when going into or out of driveways .. and if I do .. it's no more than I didn't before my suspension install.
2) The only thing that scrapes (and remember that I also have the Aspec bodykit) is the air damn deflector wing under the front end of the car (black in color) .. when I reverse down large curbs at the end of driveways too fast, I hear this deflector scape very loudly on the curb and I worry that I damaged my front underspoiler... but I never do -- it's just this deflector. And that's not a big issue at all ..
If this truly is the ONLY reason for considering not getting the Aspec suspension, then forget all your worries, and get it. You will not regret it, I promise you won't scrape along curbs, etc. at the end of driveways. Lemme know if you have any more q's.
05-02-2005, 07:47 PM
#65
BTW .. when parked by other cars in parking lots, I have noticed that my car is still higher off the ground (speaking in terms of the bottom of my front underspoiler) than BMW 3 series' that I have parked next to (I am speaking of STOCK 3-series... non-modified). Hell, my buddy just got rid of his Corvette Z06 and I know for a fact that that car was lower (his was stock) than my car and he never had major problems scraping the bottom of his car, and he has one of those driveways with very steep curbs at the end of it.
05-02-2005, 08:27 PM
#66
is learning to moonwalk i
Thanks for the info, Peter. I still may have to wait just a little bit to save up the money (I know the gf would not be happy if I did this before getting her a ring 
), but I do want to do the upgrades.
), but I do want to do the upgrades.
05-03-2005, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by moeronn
Thanks for the info, Peter. I still may have to wait just a little bit to save up the money (I know the gf would not be happy if I did this before getting her a ring ), but I do want to do the upgrades.
), but I do want to do the upgrades.
05-03-2005, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
LOL! Um yeah... ring >> suspension .. totally agreed!
Hey Moeronn, does she come w/ a whip, or is that an optional accessory? That could be the difference on whether you get those upgrades post-wedding.
Hey Moeronn, does she come w/ a whip, or is that an optional accessory? That could be the difference on whether you get those upgrades post-wedding.
05-03-2005, 01:21 PM
#72
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
LOL! nice one, Lore.
Yeah, doesn't that Fiancee v2.0 software install a bunch of spyware that will cause the program to bring up old, heated arguments later on in the marriage batch routine?
Yeah, doesn't that Fiancee v2.0 software install a bunch of spyware that will cause the program to bring up old, heated arguments later on in the marriage batch routine?
But, yes, I'm sure when I give her a ring, she will give me a ball and chain.If the suspension does happen, it will be post-ring, but pre-vows. That way, I'm still spending MY money - before our money becomes her money
05-03-2005, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by moeronn
My girlfriend already downloaded and installed that update. But, yes, I'm sure when I give her a ring, she will give me a ball and chain.
If the suspension does happen, it will be post-ring, but pre-vows. That way, I'm still spending MY money - before our money becomes her money
But, yes, I'm sure when I give her a ring, she will give me a ball and chain.If the suspension does happen, it will be post-ring, but pre-vows. That way, I'm still spending MY money - before our money becomes her money
05-04-2005, 09:45 AM
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PeterUbers,
Any updated pictures after they settled in. Would love to see the total drop after all is said and done.
BTW, I'm buying them sometime next week when I get back from my business trip and we'll install them probably the following week. I'll call you to make final arrangments!
Any updated pictures after they settled in. Would love to see the total drop after all is said and done.
BTW, I'm buying them sometime next week when I get back from my business trip and we'll install them probably the following week. I'll call you to make final arrangments!
