type-s09

http://ronjonwheels.com/ronjonimages...gend_black.jpg
what do you guys think? SSM 6-speed with soon to be black housings and black badges...i think these would look great on the car...they come in 18x8 32 offset...it should give my car an aggressive look while still having some rubber

mrchan625

iTrader: (3)

looks good to me but i didnt know they made them in black?

harddrivin1le

How much are they?

Are they forgings? Are they hubcentric for our cars?

They claim to make wheels that are "designed and engineered exclusively for Honda and Acura vehicles, yet none of their wheels have the stock (+45mm) TL offset...

type-s09

well there isnt many aftermarket wheels that are the factory offset...he designs the wheel to look good on the vehicle...fills the fender but doesnt stick out...im sure he will chime in in a second to tell you

01tl4tl

take a look at desper avatar- thats his 05 on the new ron jons slick

rondog

iTrader: (1)

They are not "Forged" but they are low pressure cast to keep costs withion the normal range.

They are the only aftermarket wheels that are Hubcentric on Acura with a 64.1 centerbore.

The offset is a 32mm because we measured and found that the 13mm difference between these and the stock wheels allowed the vehicle to benefit from a wider track without rubbing even with a lowered suspension, it also looks better than the tucked in OEM look of the 45mm offset. We know what we are doing, trust us or we wouldn't be in business this long.

22.5 lbs average for 18" x 8.0", bigger and lighter than stock wheels.

some real prototype pics, centercap is not done yet, but is black and red with polished emblem...

harddrivin1le

They look like nice wheels.

But as a mechanical engineer I know that the suspension geometry is optimized with the stock +45 mm offset.

Whether or not that's apparent in most driving conditions is admittedly arguable. The most obvious symptoms would be increased "pull" (left to right) under hard braking and/or increased torque steer.

Centerline manages to keep tight control of costs with rotary forgings (6061-T6 aircraft grade alloy). I've got some down in my garage that I ran on my '06 Accord (and am presently selling). They aren't perfect either, since their offsets also vary from OEM.

http://www.centerlinewheels.com/technology.php

type-s09

thanks ron...awesome lookin wheel

harddrivin1le

Good articles on the significance of maintaining proper offset:

http://www.mirafiori.com/dave/s-wheels.html

http://www.americanracingwheelsinfo....eel_offset.htm

Here's a paper on the topic from the Society of Automotive Engineers:

http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2001-01-2732

It's also worth noting that a lighter wheel can still have greater inertia when the diameter is increased, due to the location of the rim's mass (relatively close to the tire's OD.)

IMHO, people place way too much emphasis on aesthetics.

harddrivin1le

I'm buying these for my winter wheels. They are $139 each and preserve OEM offset:


http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...k+w%2FMach+Lip

type-s09

so yeah these ron jons...any more opinions on a silver car?

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

Very nice wheels

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

If you like them, then go for it

That's all that matters

Bearcat94

RJ These wheels are Completely F'n Sick! Nice Job!

rondog

iTrader: (1)

Arguably being the key word here, because the wider track does translate to better cornering, without a doubt. And the variance of the rubber compound from the tires will have a greater effect on what you mentioned. going from a 17" to an 18" will not have any measurable difference in rotational mass, the lighter weight makes up for it. And oh yeah, 25 lbs of rubber is the same weight as 25 lbs of aluminum, 0.5" above and below the centerbore will not make as much of a difference as 3 lbs of lost weight per wheel and tire. maybe that applies to going from 17" to a 20" diameter.

Centerline makes cheap wheels becasue they flood the market with wheels and produce quantities that yeild a greater defect rate. We make our wheels in much lower volume, and yet they are still competitively priced.

Aesthetics play a large roll in the automotive industry, nobody wants to drive an ugly car with boring wheels. You actually make up the minority of the demograph, stressing over such minute details as if you were racing on the F-1 circuit. We've never had a problem with anythign you mentioned, nor have our customers, besides, Honda and Acura themselves have changed the offset and widths with their own line of A-spec products, so now I guess you are going to say you know better than Acura themselves.

harddrivin1le

There's a lot more to handling than track width:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...60&postcount=9

A-Spec wheels are 8.5" wide (1/2" wider than stock). That can mandate a slight change in offset in order to preserve the intended geometry.

That's very different than changing the offset solely to "look cool."

I believe Acura changed the A Spec wheel from 8.5" back to 8" and specified the 45 mm offset when they changed back.

harddrivin1le

Update:

It looks like the earlier (pre-'05, 8.5") A spec wheels also used a +45 mm offset, as did the later, 8" wide version. So it would appear as though Acura retained the +45 mm OEM offset with their A Spec line of TL wheels. (The 8.5" wheel probably added 1/4" inch on each side of the wheel.)

type-s09

i garuntee the realtime race cars dont withhold factory wheel specs and they are the fastest acuras out there

leopwr

Those rims are sickkkk........nice job Ron......I can't wait to see them on a car....

go for it type-s09.....

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

You hit it right on the nose. The 8.5" A Spec wheel added 1/4" to each side of the wheel keeping the centerline integrity.
Got to agree, going to a 32 mm offset with a 8" wheel will move it out 1/2". I checked the S.4 Yoko 245 on my TL, and with the 45mm offset, the section width is directly under the middle of the fender/quarter panel lip. Another 1/2" would put the tire (section width) outside the body..........Cool, roller skates, not to me.

But to each their own. That's what the forum is for, to bring forth all views.

rondog

iTrader: (1)

Even tho the offset is the same #, the wheel is still further out on an 8.5" over a 8.0", and the wheels don't poke out at all, almost all of our pre-purchasing questions are regarding the position of the wheel, if it is as tucked in as stock or lined up with the fender, so there definetly is a demand for this setup:

take a look for yourself. These cars are all lowered and sometimes tucking tire.








compared to this: (no disresepct to jakjak)

chill_dog

type-s09 - those wheels will look good on your car, especially with the other things you mention you're going to do (and I say this from a standpoint of not being a fan of black rims). Looking forward to seeing it all come together.


As for those nitpicking the details, changing the center line isn't going to be a big deal in everyday driving for 99.999% of the people in the world. Besides, we're only talking a little over half an inch...hardly skating.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

I can't believe someone is actually questioning RONJON wheels... wtf are you insane in the membrane, ronjon wheels are so sick they cary SARS kid... the only reason I am still on stock type s rims is cuz I am paying for my masters out my pocket... I've only been on this site for under a month and I can tell you this much RonJon is the status quo here, the only people who don't have ronjon wheels want them lol

pttl

I'm not sure what you see in your 'minds eye', but if your car is silver, I think you can make a better choice of Legends with regard to color. Even with your blackening out of various parts of your car - IMHO the Black and RED Legends are not the way to go.

Look at the pics RON posted above. Did you notice the SILVER TL?

Then again - to each his own.

BTW - Ron what is the color of the wheels on the Black TL?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

First let me start by stating that I'm not saying anything is wrong with the RJ wheels. Owners will put 7.5", 8", 8.5", 9" wheels on the TL with various offsets that will move the wheel in or out. Actually we see this done on various cars quite often. They will use various sized tires from 225 to 265 with different aspect ratios, which each owner designayes for his/her application. I personally don't care for the placement of the tires any further out on the TL, but once again that is my opinion, and when I replaced my wheels I purchased the 17"x8" chromed Acura wheels and wrapped them with Yokohama Advan S.4 245/45-17, as I didn't want to go to the 40 series in 18", let alone a 35 series in 19".

I would be very cautious when you say that the only people who don't have the RJ wheels want them.

It's similar to the Type-S Graphite wheels. Some think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread, others want to change them as soon as they purchase the car.
I personally think they are terrible.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

I was using the term "wants them" loosely, making a generalization, but yeah I understand you want to keep things as near stock feeling as possible... I merely wanted to add that RonJon wheels are uniquely designed to cater to our car and I for one will eat them up like sliced bread

harddrivin1le

They change everything, though, including the suspension components and sometimes the geometry itself.

They're designing a well engineered racing PACKAGE, where performance is paramount.

You'll also find that they're running the lightest wheel of the smallest diameter that will clear the calipers.

harddrivin1le

The relationship between wheel offset and suspension geometry is well known. You can read about it in various books, you can take mechanical engineering courses or can simply accept articles such as this one as fact:

http://www.mirafiori.com/dave/s-wheels.html

Careful measurements must be taken before considering a wheel with different offset so that you know what range is acceptable for your application. Wheels with grossly inappropriate amounts of offset will greatly reduce the handling abilities of your car and put tremendous loads on bearings, ball joints, and steering components leading to eventual failure. You would be wise to give plenty of room to the modern low rider with so much negative offset that nearly ALL of the wheel/tire is OUTSIDE the fender so that you do not become part of the inevitable accident. The individuals that drive these cars are either ignorant of the mechanical torture they have put upon their cars or just irresponsible about their actions, both of which can be very dangerous. Another important note is that any change in offset will result in a change in steering geometry since the contact patches of the front tires will be a different distance from the pivot point of the front suspension. This will be especially evident at higher speeds or when turning sharply.

harddrivin1le

http://www.miata.net/garage/offset.htm

"...A smaller offset moves the wheels outward, so they have a tendency to fill out the wheel well better. Cars set up for show, more than performance will often choose a lower offset wheel."

jmbnova

I was running the RJ Inspyres since the day I got my ride... Absolutley love them... they turn heads everywhere they go.. that is until they were ripped off this past weekend...

RJ offers an extremely unique look and also a quality product... but you should get what YOU like.. noone elses opinion should matter...

Type_S

iTrader: (1)

You do realize that its when the offset is changed drastically. A 13mm change is only 1/2 in. With just 1/2 in. in change in offset, the wheels and tires clear every single component under the car. And clears the fenders with no rubbing whatsoever. Anything thats sticks out of the fender and too wide is a different story.

I would be more concerned on these cars that are driving around on 22"-26" wheels and think it looks good.

harddrivin1le

A half an inch is a LOT - assuming one understands suspension geometry fundamentals (e.g. steering axis inclination...scrub radius.)

The total stock offset is +45 mm. A -13mm change equates to a -29% (nearly a third).

Would you consider a 29% salary cut to be insignificant?

rondog

iTrader: (1)

I got an idea, why don't you just not get the wheels and become an engineering proffessor or something. Or howabout I start looking for negative things that aren't true about you and say, "well I'm an engineer, i know more than anybody" and start knocking you and what you do to your car. Every single thing you said is totally exagerated, and can easilly be proven wrong, I just don't have the energy to do what I do and battle your unfounded theories.

Becasue the fact is that most of the members on this board modify their vehicles wheels, suspension brakes, everything, and you are only mentioning arguable negative issues, while our wheels have just as many if not more positive characteristics. You are obviously a glass half empty type of guy, or you have issues. Just leave it alone dude, go complain to people who care about your calculations. Nobody has ever mentioned anything that you are bringing up, other factors such as tire size, suspension upgrades and camber probably have more impact than the wheels we are speaking about. So go to Eibach, Comptech, TEIN, and all the other companies and claim how you know more than them, maybe they can give youa jopb or something. Jeez, talk about being bent on dissing companies, ONLINE of all places.

harddrivin1le

Anyone who's interested in the importance of maintaining proper wheel offset - particularly in a front drive vehicle - is free to research this topic on their own. Their is no shortage of credible information for those who care enough to look.

The RonJon wheels I'm seeing look like quality pieces that were designed primarily for AESTHETICS. That's fine for those who want that. But a 1/2" change in offset on this type of vehicle is quite significant.

A dedicated high performance wheel for the TL would be 17" in diameter, forged and retain the factory offset. An additional 1/2" in width (1/4" on each side) would also be nice for the hardcore enthusiast.

I had Tein SSs on my '06 Accord/V6/EX/6 speed and I had Koni yellows on two other vehicles. Teins are also designed primarily for aesthetics; they are too soft for true performance applications and simply don't compare to Koni yellows (preferably the DA variety).

type-s09

ok well we arent discussing anymore calculations...go back to math class or something, why do car manufacturers offer several sets of accessory wheels for the same car? Example: G35..you can get the 17, 18, or 19..what do they do? change the whole suspension out? no

juruki

iTrader: (2)

Ron you are the man! I love everyone of your products.
Im still waiting for the 07 TL-S lip kit, any news of when it will come out?

harddrivin1le

Wheel diameter isn't related to offset. Check the offsets of those accessory wheels and you'll likely find they're the same.

Acura's 18" TL A Spec wheels maintain the stock +45mm offset, for example. They're competing directly with aftermarket wheels, yet they retained the stock offset. Why do you suppose that is?

Do you even know what "scrub radius" is? If not, then how can you argue this issue?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

For such a smart ass why did you put cheap stuff.. tein and koni.. lol if you're so smart why didn't you get Tanabe Sustec Pro's on there

harddrivin1le

Uhhhh.....Koni Yellows ("Sports") aren't cheap.

Have you ever priced them?

The double adjustable versions are pushing $400 PER SHOCK in some applications.

Education is rarely cheap and the Teins were an expensive lesson.

harddrivin1le

Here is the (single adjustable) Koni Sport for the TL. The discounted price is $615.68. That's JUST THE SHOCKS (no springs, mounts or other hardware of any kind):

http://www.racinglab.com/koni-sport-03.html

Full retail is $880 for the set of 4 per Koni:

http://www.koni-na.com/cat_search.?m...&submit=Search

The double adjustable models (not available for the TL) are a lot more expensive. They allow compression and rebound to be individually adjusted. I had those on my 1LE Camaro (factory equipment).