Front sway bar replacment

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Old 11-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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Front sway bar replacment

Hi All,

I need to replace driver side front sway bar. Dealer recommends to replace the both and ask for about $160 + tax. Where local repair shop ask for much cheaper amount. Is there any reason I should go with the dealer and also to replace both. I would appreciate any help and comments.

Thanks so much in advance.
Old 11-20-2012, 09:11 AM
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Drive side sway bar? You mean driver side axle? or the hole front sway bar?
Old 11-20-2012, 09:32 AM
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Sorry for the confusion guys.....it is the front driver side sway bar link....

Last edited by woow14623; 11-20-2012 at 09:45 AM.
Old 11-20-2012, 10:16 AM
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I would definitely replace both sides, because they work off each other. If you were to replace the one it would be okay but ultimately you would wear the new one out faster because it would be doing the majority of the work. I wouldn't take it to the dealer for that price!!! $160 +tax?! that is ludicrous! There is no reason to take it to the dealer, unless you just prefer them. Personally I would do it myself, it's not complicated and it's around $30 for endlinks.
Old 11-20-2012, 11:06 AM
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I am not a person who could do these ..Do I need OEM parts for this? The other store asked for about 140 about $20 less.
Old 11-20-2012, 11:09 AM
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yes, they are called Endlinks.
the endlinks are what connects the sway bar.
Old 11-20-2012, 11:33 AM
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OEM is not a bad choice, but I'd go with the MOOG ones. They are a bit beefier than the small oem ones.
Old 11-20-2012, 11:35 AM
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I was going to go with the moog but I just read that...moog end links are harder and might put more tension on the end and bar itself?
Old 11-20-2012, 11:47 AM
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It will put more tension on the bar when conering, but that is what the bar is made for. Also if you decide to go with the Moog, you must definitely replace both sides.
Old 11-20-2012, 11:53 AM
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any good place to order OEM parts and/or moog parts online?
Old 11-20-2012, 12:04 PM
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We have a couple of vendors for OEM parts. One of the vendor sites is oemacuraparts.com I have personally bought from him, I believe his name is Tim. You can get MOOG parts from Oreilly Auto Parts, or eBay.
Old 11-20-2012, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 96cd5
We have a couple of vendors for OEM parts. One of the vendor sites is oemacuraparts.com I have personally bought from him, I believe his name is Tim. You can get MOOG parts from Oreilly Auto Parts, or eBay.
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it alot. I just placed the order through Tim. Thanks again. Going to use a local repair shop to install. Labor + parts will cost on $100. I saved closer to $90 thx.
Old 11-20-2012, 05:08 PM
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Honestly after having to remove a set of rusted to hell end links I sort of wish I had just paid someone else to swear at the car for an hour. Its not hard if everything is still in good condition. The OEM endlinks are a bitch and a half to get off in bad condition because of the cheezy hex key you have to use to keep them from spinning. I eventually had to use a dremel to cut off one side.
Old 11-20-2012, 05:25 PM
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go with Moog and do it yourself....
Old 11-21-2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by geekybiker
Honestly after having to remove a set of rusted to hell end links I sort of wish I had just paid someone else to swear at the car for an hour. Its not hard if everything is still in good condition. The OEM endlinks are a bitch and a half to get off in bad condition because of the cheezy hex key you have to use to keep them from spinning. I eventually had to use a dremel to cut off one side.

Here is a trick I learned when i replaced my rear end links when installing my aspecs.

The hex key can stay in the tool box if he end link is rusted to shit.

Take a set of needle nose vice grips and clamp it down on the rubber in between the end link and sway bar. Then crank away.
Chances are the nut will seize before coming completely off. You then whip out the dremel and cut away at the bolt.

I just replaced my front end links a few weeks ago and did the same thing.
Strangely enough, the front end links were not rusted at all and came off pretty easily.
Just remember to tighten the bolts once the car is back on neutral ground. Dont tighten the nut while the car is jacked up.

btw...that hex key hole is useless.
Old 11-21-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by flyromeo3
Here is a trick I learned when i replaced my rear end links when installing my aspecs.

The hex key can stay in the tool box if he end link is rusted to shit.

Take a set of needle nose vice grips and clamp it down on the rubber in between the end link and sway bar. Then crank away.
Chances are the nut will seize before coming completely off. You then whip out the dremel and cut away at the bolt.

I just replaced my front end links a few weeks ago and did the same thing.
Strangely enough, the front end links were not rusted at all and came off pretty easily.
Just remember to tighten the bolts once the car is back on neutral ground. Dont tighten the nut while the car is jacked up.

btw...that hex key hole is useless.
Pretty much exactly what I did. Vice grips to get clearance for a dremel with a fiber disc. Once you get one end off you can pry the bar part of the endlink off the bolt on the other side to make gripping/cutting easier. (It just pops out of socket.) I'm not sure you need the car on the ground to tighten the bolts, but it helps to have both wheels up when working on the bar. Otherwise there is a bunch of tension on the bar. If you have an issue getting it to line up you can always stick the jack under the control arm and lift it up.
Old 01-04-2013, 09:43 AM
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what is the likely hood of front endlinks going bad after being replaced a bit over 2 months ago?
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