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2005 TL auto with 165k miles. I need to do a front suspension rehab, yet I have a very low budget. The rotors are warped, and it needs new upper ball joints, outer tie rods ends, and compliance bushings. I'm thinking about doing this work:
1. Turn the rotors - cheaper than replacing them.
2. Have my mechanic replace the upper ball joints with adjustable ball boints. This is all original to the car. Can the OEM ones be pressed out of the control arm? How do I check the upper control arm bushings? I think that they are ok though. Replace the lower ball joints as preventive maintenance.
3. Leave the springs and shocks alone. These are original. The shocks aren't sagging or leaking, and the car doesn't dive when braking hard. Do the springs sag over time like my mechanic says? They seem to be ok, because the car isn't sagging.
4. I will replace the compliance bushings myself using these two DIYs, which is cheaper than having the mechanic replace both arms (I doubt that it would be cost-effective for them to change just the bushings):
1) if they've been turned before you may want to just get some new ones. They're cheap at parts stores. Going below the minimum width on those could be a safety hazard. I'm not sure on the measurement for that but I'm sure it's on here somewhere (I've forgotten).
2) The ball joints can be pushed out of the control arm. There is a rental part at the parts store if you'd like to do this yourself. To check the bushings in the UCA just pull it out of the car (it's a couple bolts) and then inspect them. Just be sure to unload the control arms before unbolting it. I agree with you that they're probably fine. Mine looked new (surprisingly) at like 150k miles.
3) After a while on bad shocks I could see how the springs could compress a bit more. I guess it's really hard to say I've seen it on a car because they typically have bad shocks. Whether the shocks are sagging or not, they're probably due for replacement but I guess that's really up to you since you're on a budget.
4) seems like you've got this one under control.
5) it's always a good idea to inspect.
6) another one you've got under control
I'd say just to inspect everything while you're under there for rust and wear. If you see anything alarming, deal with it. Hope this helps.
I see your local. I just did the same project a month or two ago and replaced quite a few things to freshen up my suspension. Few notes below:
1. Turn the rotors - cheaper than replacing them. -Are you sure they are warped? Maybe just pad transfer on them? I would just replace vs turning.
2. Have my mechanic replace the upper ball joints with adjustable ball boints. This is all original to the car. Can the OEM ones be pressed out of the control arm? How do I check the upper control arm bushings? I think that they are ok though. Replace the lower ball joints as preventive maintenance. -The upper ball joints can be replaced however the arm looks pretty wimpy and you may destroy it. The new arm was $70 if I recall. My arm had about 1/8" of slop in it that was easy to replicate when the wheel was jacked up and moving it. To replace the ball joint you'll need to remove the strut so keep that in mind if your contemplating a replacement (getting it out is 90% of the work).
3. Leave the springs and shocks alone. These are original. The shocks aren't sagging or leaking, and the car doesn't dive when braking hard. Do the springs sag over time like my mechanic says? They seem to be ok, because the car isn't sagging. They probably are getting soft. Mine only had 120k was fairly well treated and is more controlled and stiff now with new Aspec's on all 4 corners. If you intend to keep the car another 20-50k miles I would strongly consider replacing. Plus most of this work is complimentary labor.
4. I will replace the compliance bushings myself using these two DIYs, which is cheaper than having the mechanic replace both arms (I doubt that it would be cost-effective for them to change just the bushings): -Let me know if you do this because I ordered and returned the oem bushings. Frankly looked like a difficult job that might jack up the lca without the right tools.
DIY LCA Suspension Bushing Press ?
'04 to '08 front lower control arm bushing failure - please read and look
5. Leave the other two lower control arm bushings alone.
6. I still have three out of four stabilizer bar links to replace, which I can do myself.
7. Alignment. -Make sure they get it right. I had to do it three times and replace the rear camber arms too.
Let me know how it goes. Schedules pending might be able to help out.
1. I would replace new rotors and use one from Centric.
2. Replace lower ball joint and upper control arm if your car live in the pot hole heaven city. (ahem like Houston for example).
3. New spring and shock will give you a noticeable difference in handling but some what rougher than now.
4. Replace just the bushing is cheaper and yes it achieve same as replaced the whole lower arm.
5. I would get the other two lower bushing replace at the same time when you have to get an alignment done after anyway.
6. Sound like you know what you doing.
7. Deff..
Also check for plays on inner and outter tire rods.
When I bought my lexus at 155k miles (now has 183k miles) the suspension was totally toast, I replace inner/outter tire rods, lower ball joint, new struts (all), upper and 4 lower control arm (front) Sway bar bushing the dam car handle much better now. Steering feel has tighten up quite a bit.
Last edited by truonghthe; 11-08-2015 at 01:31 PM.
Hi and Merry Christmas. I hit an obstacle by shearing off the head of the left front shock absorber lock bolt. What should I do with this - look for a new or used fork (51821-sda-a00) and bolt (90117-sm4-003)? Can this be drilled out and the threads cleaned out with a tap and die or thread restoring kit?
TheDingo, zed88, and truonghthe - thanks for your comments. I got the rotors turned but the process was painful thanks to O'Reilly's and am now getting into the rest of the rehab.
zed88 - I have the components for the DIY tool and am planning on installing the bushings (Mevotech from Rock Auto) in the next week or so if I can deal with this busted bolt and the rusted-in-place sway bar links. Thanks for your offer and yes I'll take you up on that.
I got almost all of this work done and have a question about the resulting alignment, which shows five things out of spec. I will have them re-adjust the alignment, but which of these are important and which are less important?
The car drives great. The mechanic asked whether the steering returns to center, and it does. He also said that the caster does not determine tire wear.
I just want it set up properly because it will need tires within a few months. FYI the work was all on the front: lower ball joints, upper adjustable ball joints, two out of three lower control arm bushings, outer tie rod ends, and sway bar links. Turned both front brake rotors.
11-06-2015, 03:00 PM
