DIY Alignment - Need some toe help
DIY Alignment - Need some toe help
I have a couple of questions. I just changed out the front/rear shocks and checked the alignment using the string/conduit method. The toe is out by about 3/32"-6/32" on all 4 tires (3 toed in, 1 toed out in the rear).
I was able to break the toe adjusting nuts loose in the rear, but I couldn't get the bolts to spin. I soaked them in PB and figured I would come back after it soaks for a day or two. This brings me to my questions, bear with me as this is my first attempt at a DIY alignment...
1) If I pick up the adjustable camber kit for the rear, is that the same arm that the toe adjustment is on? (In case I end up having to cut the toe bolts)
2) When/If I do get the bolt moving, is the eccentric washer on the front supposed to spin? There's a piece of metal that protrudes next to the eccentric, so I'm thinking not, but I'm not really 100% clear on how it all works.
I was able to break the toe adjusting nuts loose in the rear, but I couldn't get the bolts to spin. I soaked them in PB and figured I would come back after it soaks for a day or two. This brings me to my questions, bear with me as this is my first attempt at a DIY alignment...
1) If I pick up the adjustable camber kit for the rear, is that the same arm that the toe adjustment is on? (In case I end up having to cut the toe bolts)
2) When/If I do get the bolt moving, is the eccentric washer on the front supposed to spin? There's a piece of metal that protrudes next to the eccentric, so I'm thinking not, but I'm not really 100% clear on how it all works.
With an aftermarket kit (Ingalls) there are 2 different bars on each side, 1 for toe, 1 for camber.
The cam on the bolt is the toe adjustment as it will move the arm in and out depending on its location. Nut will come off as well as the cam.
Good Luck
The cam on the bolt is the toe adjustment as it will move the arm in and out depending on its location. Nut will come off as well as the cam.
Good Luck
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
Ok thanks, I guess I need a camber kit and the rear arm if I have to cut the bolts out then.
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
I went ahead and ordered up 2 of those kits!
So I need a new toe adjuster bolt / eccentric / nut from the dealer? Or does the kit use something else? I see that the toe adjustment will be done on the arm instead of at the mounting bolt if I understand correctly, I'm just unclear if it uses the same hardware. Just want to make sure I have all the necessary parts before digging in!
Last edited by kdog_x; Mar 6, 2013 at 11:05 PM.
There's only the bars supplied with the kit, so you'll need to reuse the existing hardware and if damaged new need to be secured.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
There's only the bars supplied with the kit, so you'll need to reuse the existing hardware and if damaged new need to be secured.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
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