DIY Alignment - Need some toe help
#1
DIY Alignment - Need some toe help
I have a couple of questions. I just changed out the front/rear shocks and checked the alignment using the string/conduit method. The toe is out by about 3/32"-6/32" on all 4 tires (3 toed in, 1 toed out in the rear).
I was able to break the toe adjusting nuts loose in the rear, but I couldn't get the bolts to spin. I soaked them in PB and figured I would come back after it soaks for a day or two. This brings me to my questions, bear with me as this is my first attempt at a DIY alignment...
1) If I pick up the adjustable camber kit for the rear, is that the same arm that the toe adjustment is on? (In case I end up having to cut the toe bolts)
2) When/If I do get the bolt moving, is the eccentric washer on the front supposed to spin? There's a piece of metal that protrudes next to the eccentric, so I'm thinking not, but I'm not really 100% clear on how it all works.
I was able to break the toe adjusting nuts loose in the rear, but I couldn't get the bolts to spin. I soaked them in PB and figured I would come back after it soaks for a day or two. This brings me to my questions, bear with me as this is my first attempt at a DIY alignment...
1) If I pick up the adjustable camber kit for the rear, is that the same arm that the toe adjustment is on? (In case I end up having to cut the toe bolts)
2) When/If I do get the bolt moving, is the eccentric washer on the front supposed to spin? There's a piece of metal that protrudes next to the eccentric, so I'm thinking not, but I'm not really 100% clear on how it all works.
#3
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
#4
Ok thanks, I guess I need a camber kit and the rear arm if I have to cut the bolts out then.
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
So as the bolt turns it should rotate the eccentric so that the tick marks line up with the part of the frame that sticks out? It seems to be installed in the 12 oclock position on both sides and comes off easily in it's current position (once the nut is removed).
I guess what I'm asking is, once the adjuster bolt is turned to move the arm out, will the eccentric washer be wedged in place or would it still be able to be removed and retain the same toe settings?
Thanks!
I went ahead and ordered up 2 of those kits!
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by kdog_x; 03-06-2013 at 11:05 PM.
#5
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
There's only the bars supplied with the kit, so you'll need to reuse the existing hardware and if damaged new need to be secured.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
The following users liked this post:
kdog_x (03-07-2013)
#6
There's only the bars supplied with the kit, so you'll need to reuse the existing hardware and if damaged new need to be secured.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
Paint the sleeves, the cams are to be installed in what they call the neutral position, use antiseize, adjust the Ingalls bars to the approximate length of the factory units and do not tighten or torque to specs until the car is lowered, bounced a few times, then get the car aligned.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
emailnatec
5G TLX Tires, Wheels & Suspension
29
09-28-2018 04:27 PM