Cut my springs
12-20-2012, 08:23 AM
#41
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What do you mean lower? And not change the stock form? Wtf...
Changing anything from OEM will change the car.
Look into Tein S-Tech or H&R Springs if you want to lower it, but IT WILL change the way it rides. If you want stock feel, stick with stock.
Changing anything from OEM will change the car.
Look into Tein S-Tech or H&R Springs if you want to lower it, but IT WILL change the way it rides. If you want stock feel, stick with stock.
12-20-2012, 09:02 AM
#43
Sorry, Yes I meant ride quality.
I guess I need to find users who has put on the S-Tech springs and see what their thoughts are and feedback is on the springs....
I guess I need to find users who has put on the S-Tech springs and see what their thoughts are and feedback is on the springs....
12-20-2012, 09:24 AM
#45
I have been doing that as I have been reading this thread also....
I see everyone seems to be using them, but now they are speaking of changing the struts. So NOW MORE RESEARCH.
I see everyone seems to be using them, but now they are speaking of changing the struts. So NOW MORE RESEARCH.
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justnspace (12-20-2012)
12-20-2012, 09:48 AM
#47
I just am concerned about a difference in ride quality on a luxury car, its not a civic and I dont want to compromise that nice luxury feeling for the sake of wheel gap...
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Undying Dreams (12-20-2012)
12-20-2012, 03:01 PM
#50
Team Owner
I've cut springs when I was poor. You learn pretty quickly that it's not always a 1:1 ratio, 1" of spring cut might mean 2" drop.
IMO you should never put a lowering spring in the TL without increasing the spring rate. Even in stock form there's very little suspension travel and hitting bumpstops kills ride quality more than a stiff spring. Hitting the bumpstop mid corner causes the suspension to go infinite stiffness which if on the rear will cause oversteer. Keeping the TL off the bumpstops should be high on the priority list.
Cutting a stock spring not only lowers the car but stiffens the car an appropriate amount. I don't suggest cutting stock springs but an aftermarket spring with a stock spring rate is not doing you any favors. Only coilovers and only certain coilovers at that will allow you to retain full suspension travel while lower. I would go for one of these coilovers if you want stock like ride while sitting lower. If you want to lower the car using just springs you must run a stiffer spring to keep it off the bumpstops and retain ride quality.
I went to the trouble to mod my Konis to retain full factory suspension travel while riding 1.4" lower and it was worth every bit of the stress. After riding around for half a year without the mod and then changing nothing except for the amount of suspension travel before hitting the bumpstops, no spring rate or ride height changes, the difference in ride quality and handling is dramatic.
No one ever talks about handling balance and why you even want to stiffen the car up in the first place. Our suspension goes into negative camber when the body leans so it's not the end of the world if you have some body roll. Stiffer gives a different driving dynamic and will lead the driver to think the car handles better. Reducing body roll does not reduce weight transfer. Lowering the car lowers the CG which is good. Lower it the wrong way where you're hitting the bumpstops, it more than makes up for the lower CG and ruins handling.
Honestly, for the best compromise in ride height and comfort, the correct coilovers are the best bet unless you do the Koni mod.
Keep in mind, the car came factory with "coilovers". The things we call coilovers just make ride height adjustable, that's it.
And it's shocks, not struts.
IMO you should never put a lowering spring in the TL without increasing the spring rate. Even in stock form there's very little suspension travel and hitting bumpstops kills ride quality more than a stiff spring. Hitting the bumpstop mid corner causes the suspension to go infinite stiffness which if on the rear will cause oversteer. Keeping the TL off the bumpstops should be high on the priority list.
Cutting a stock spring not only lowers the car but stiffens the car an appropriate amount. I don't suggest cutting stock springs but an aftermarket spring with a stock spring rate is not doing you any favors. Only coilovers and only certain coilovers at that will allow you to retain full suspension travel while lower. I would go for one of these coilovers if you want stock like ride while sitting lower. If you want to lower the car using just springs you must run a stiffer spring to keep it off the bumpstops and retain ride quality.
I went to the trouble to mod my Konis to retain full factory suspension travel while riding 1.4" lower and it was worth every bit of the stress. After riding around for half a year without the mod and then changing nothing except for the amount of suspension travel before hitting the bumpstops, no spring rate or ride height changes, the difference in ride quality and handling is dramatic.
No one ever talks about handling balance and why you even want to stiffen the car up in the first place. Our suspension goes into negative camber when the body leans so it's not the end of the world if you have some body roll. Stiffer gives a different driving dynamic and will lead the driver to think the car handles better. Reducing body roll does not reduce weight transfer. Lowering the car lowers the CG which is good. Lower it the wrong way where you're hitting the bumpstops, it more than makes up for the lower CG and ruins handling.
Honestly, for the best compromise in ride height and comfort, the correct coilovers are the best bet unless you do the Koni mod.
Keep in mind, the car came factory with "coilovers". The things we call coilovers just make ride height adjustable, that's it.
And it's shocks, not struts.
The following 2 users liked this post by I hate cars:
Cbosa17 (12-21-2012),
justnspace (12-21-2012)
10-28-2013, 11:25 PM
#51
Drifting
my dad said back in the 60's they used to put a jack under the car, like an inch or so away from the frame, then get a torch and heat the springs until it sagged down and rests on the jack.. then remove the blow torch and hit it with some water. Done. haha My dad was / is creative. And come to think of it, they have those little hand held blue torches at home depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003
.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003
.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 10-28-2013 at 11:35 PM.
10-28-2013, 11:58 PM
#52
Drifting
but that could be dangerous if the spring decided to break.
10-29-2013, 12:51 AM
#53
Team Owner
You should definitely try it. 
The following 5 users liked this post by I hate cars:
ebelp (10-30-2013),
EvilVirus (10-29-2013),
justnspace (10-29-2013),
SharksBreath (10-29-2013),
Undying Dreams (10-29-2013)
10-29-2013, 02:47 PM
#54
Suzuka Master
Propane aint gonna do it. MAPP maybe, acetylene for sure. Not that its a good way, but cutting coils is way better than heating steel and trying to re temper by quenching
might fix his suspension problems...
10-29-2013, 03:06 PM
#56
Drifting
Justin is just trying to get a razz out of me. Fortunately i am at work. I wood moon ya, but you might like that. Haha
10-29-2013, 03:09 PM
#57
my dad said back in the 60's they used to put a jack under the car, like an inch or so away from the frame, then get a torch and heat the springs until it sagged down and rests on the jack.. then remove the blow torch and hit it with some water. Done. haha My dad was / is creative. And come to think of it, they have those little hand held blue torches at home depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003
.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4458/203665003
.
10-29-2013, 03:10 PM
#58
Drifting
Justin why do u have 38,000 posts? U joined 2 years after me and i have 1,000 and something. Do you have a job? If u need one u can come do my suspension.. haha
10-29-2013, 03:12 PM
#60
Drifting
I said my dad did that.. read carefully bro. No recommend. But why do people beleive things that any shmo can post on the internet. Even Wikipedia is editable. Scary.
10-29-2013, 03:14 PM
#61
Drifting
10-29-2013, 03:24 PM
#63
Drifting
Maybe we should have a round of yo mama jokes?
10-29-2013, 03:26 PM
#64
Drifting
Oh wait.. wy thats dr evil himself. I almost didnt recognize you with yur new icon. U must be cleaning up yur act,, :-)
10-29-2013, 03:36 PM
#65
Race Director
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Gee, thanks for bumping this thread!
10-29-2013, 03:40 PM
#66
Drifting
Your welcome. If need some help, justin is available. He works, but not really.
10-29-2013, 04:32 PM
#67
Team Owner
Some things never change.
10-29-2013, 04:40 PM
#68
Suzuka Master
Link to a torch that wont provide enough heat! Ha
10-29-2013, 04:50 PM
#69
Drifting
So if water wont temper it, what if u pee on it?
10-29-2013, 05:35 PM
#71
Drifting
I have a better idea. Strart your engine then pee on a spark plug.. haha
Last edited by Chad05TL; 10-29-2013 at 05:40 PM.
10-29-2013, 08:00 PM
#72
Drifting
.... If I thought it would any good.
10-30-2013, 10:14 AM
#73
As IHC said, cutting springs makes them stiffer because you reduce the wire length, thereby increasing the wire twist for every increment of movement in the suspension. The problem with cutting your springs is that you have to be extremely accurate with how much wire you remove to keep the springs the same L to R. If you mess this up, you will have different handling & ride height L to R. I would ONLY bother cutting a spring if you had a spring tester and your aim was only to make a small change in ride height & stiffness. Even still, your coils will probably no longer sit correctly on their perches and your spring may start to interfere or rub on the damper body.
As for torching the springs, this is super ghetto. There is no way to measure & torch your springs accurately to be exactly the same left to right. Overheating spring steel will change it's properties permanently which will have lasting effects that can cause the spring to continue to sag more & more as time goes on. Plus it won't really effect the spring rate so much (probably make it softer) leading to bottoming from not being stiff enough for the ride height.
As for torching the springs, this is super ghetto. There is no way to measure & torch your springs accurately to be exactly the same left to right. Overheating spring steel will change it's properties permanently which will have lasting effects that can cause the spring to continue to sag more & more as time goes on. Plus it won't really effect the spring rate so much (probably make it softer) leading to bottoming from not being stiff enough for the ride height.
10-30-2013, 12:42 PM
#74
2014 Jeep SRT
What is this atrocity of a thread? It should be removed as it is only making the AZ community dumber. I think there was a scene in Idiocracy where someone was reading this thread.
10-31-2013, 08:46 AM
#75
Don't do that.
Save your money, when you hit $230 call one of our vendors for a set of H&R sports or Tein.
Same drop, better ride, less chance of screwing something up.
http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/cutting-springs
Save your money, when you hit $230 call one of our vendors for a set of H&R sports or Tein.
Same drop, better ride, less chance of screwing something up.
http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/cutting-springs
So if lowering springs can drop your car about 1.5"? I'm looking to go 1.5-2 inches lower but I know right now I can't afford $900 coilovers.
10-31-2013, 10:35 AM
#78
10-31-2013, 11:01 AM
#79
Suzuka Master
You will end up spending more money that way. Save and do it correctly the first time.
03-10-2014, 07:56 PM
#80
2006 6spd
iTrader: (2)
So has anyone cut their springs on their 3G?...i currently have Tein S-tech springs on and the front is a little high still... now I actually have two extra pairs of springs and I'm willing to cut the front just to test itout...
& yes I read about 30 posts saying not to do it...
& yes I read about 30 posts saying not to do it...