0007Type-S

I am considering Slotted and cross drilled instead of just slotted which is better please assist.

GRAF-FITI

spam

acurarsx04

slotted. They both tend to crack after hard but slotted are better in the long run.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

slotted rotors will not crack.
its basically a blank with a slit in the surface...the slit does not go all the way through the rotor
which means no chance of cracking!


however, with drilled rotors, you're removing material from the rotor.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Slotted

ultimatum127

slotted, i mean slotted and drilled look cooler in my opinion but you are taking the structural safety away from the rotor. Now you probably aren't driving hard enough to make that much of a difference but i guess the thought of that is scary.

0007Type-S

Thanks guys for the info guys

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

Neither. Your Acura TL will not benefit from either for everyday street driving. Plus all the issues that people mention with warping and cracking, just get OEM rotors or a quality aftermarket one. Plus IMO they would look out of place on a TL. You expect to see things like that on a Nissan GTR or a Corvette Z06, but not a family sedan. Sorry I'm being the mid grinch again lol
Flame away.

Acura_Dude

I bet rotors for a GTR are ridiculously expensive.

2FRESHTL

Oem all the way

TLperfection

One word.

Brakemotive.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

I agree. I have had my share of TL's and surprisingly the OEM rotors are very good IMO. I have never had one of my TL's develop warped rotors. I did buy a used Type s that came from the previous owner with drilled and slotted rotors that were junk. Bad warpage I junked them and went with stock Type s rotors and pads and the brakes are excellent.

nttstt444

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with the OEM rotors at all. I like the look of slotted rotors, so that's what I have. Purely for aesthetic reasons. I guess they cool quicker and disperse the heat better then blank ones, but for daily street driving I cant imagine they offer much of an advantage, if any.

I hate cars

I've posted objective data on blank vs slotted vs drilled but I'm not going to type it up again.

I would never run drilled (again) on a street car and they can be a safety liability on a race car.

Slotted has no disadvantage but may not have any advantages vs blank depending on the pads. I went with slotted on my Stoptech BBK because it was the same price as blank and there's the chance it may improve performance by reducing the chances of pad glazing. Plus these rotors do not have as many slots or crazy patterns as some do. Behind the stock rims you really don't see the slots. Going off topic, I also got the black calipers so unless you own a TL and know it well you're not going to know it has aftermarket brakes. Behind the stock 17s you can tell they're larger than the Brembos but you don't see the slots and most importantly no one outside of the TL world is going to know.

One thing not mentioned in the OP was the definition of "better". Are we talking about resistance to fade, consistency over a large range of temps, regular driving through deep puddles/lots of standing water?

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

I bought mine knowing they have no real benefit for daily driving. To me it's purely aesthetic. I like the way the look.
Attachment 108361

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

Unless you reach this point, there's no real "need" for D/S rotors.

leedogg

i've heard the drilled was gimmicky. I do wonder if the slotted brakes contribute to compound buildup and then vibrations (often attributed to "warped" brakes)

I hate cars

I'm assuming those are carbon ceramic disks which will glow at a lower temp than steel. They can get away with "drilling" because they're thermally neutral. No expanding or contracting.

I personally would trust drilled steel rotors less at high temps. They don't help cooling except under conditions a TL is never going to meet.

I can understand wanting your brakes to look nice but crossdrilled rotors will crack. Everyone of them if given enough time. My 13" Rotoras cracked do bad they could be felt through the pedal. No thanks.

truonghthe

Just get a centric rotor, they are cheaper than oem and yet the quality isn't far if not better than oem one.

cam_2

I read dozens of related threads and the blank Brembo seemed to be closest to an OEM rotor, so I chose that. Rear is $34 at Rock Auto. Interestingly, there isn't a Brembo front rotor.

ZOMGVTEK

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Cool shots.....

DAN!!!

Oem

I hate cars

Any particular reason to use OEM?

csmeance

lots of misinformation in this thread, this is the real deal:

1. Slotted &/or Drilled rotors reduce the weight of the rotors, thus less sprung mass which means a faster car.

2. Drilled rotors mean less metal and surface area compared to slotted so they cool and heat up faster compared to a slotted, and those heat up/cool faster than the OEM to an extent depending on design (somewhat good for tracks, bad for the street sometimes)

3. Slotted rotors give more "bite" to the brakes as the slots cut into the pad during breaking. However this reduces pad life significantly. I would not advise slotted rears.

4. Most "Drilled" rotors are literally drilled stock rotors which are BAD!!!! These creates stress fractures that can cause the rotor to fail with continued heat cycles causing a crack at the holes. The way to avoid this is to cast the disk with the holes in it first and then to refine them. Racing Brake has a revolutionary idea where they put holes in the slots of the rotors instead!

5. Inner vane design is VERY important to cooling. Most aftermarket brakes don't use any upgraded design to allow for better cooling. Some do, for example Racing Brake designs the inner portion of rotors to have better air flow and to pump more air into the rotor to cool it faster.

6. 2pc rotors are expensive upfront but can be cheaper in the long run. They tend to be lighter than 1pc rotors and you only have to replace the wearable part. For most people this isn't needed and is overkill!!!!!

7. Don't cheap out on your brakes, even the "brembo" blanks can be crappy. I'd recommend a good brand with tested, tried and true results. I have put 120+K miles on my Racing Brake Rotors and they still perform amazingly well.

I hate cars

It's a trivial amount of weight, you will never see a performance increase. We're talking an ounce or two and definitely not worth the cracks.
Slotted make no difference in heat rejection. Drilled makes no difference until you get significant airflow through the rotors which isn't going to happen on a TL without cooling ducts and high speed.
Slotted only give more bite if the pads tend to glaze under heavy use. That's why I said slotted may or may not give a performance increase based on the pads you're using. Originally slots were only there to release gasses from pads outgassing. Most modern pads do not have this problem which makes slotted more for looks than anything else.
I like the Racing brake idea. Time will tell how well it works. Even when the holes are cast in, they will still crack. All drilled rotors will crack given time.
Agreed. I don't know why more manufacturers don't use the curved vane approach and turn the rotors into an air pump.
Agreed. I'm running 1pc because 2pc is just not needed and there's always the small chance they could get noisy. It's not that common but they can get a clatter sound when not braking and a knock when you hit and release the brakes. Since I have so much data on rotor and caliper temps I might switch to 2pc just to see the differences. I still need to start measuring rim temperature because 2pc should lower rim temps a little. 2pc doesn't necessarily cool better but they are much more resistant to warping.
Agreed. The two most important things, brake and tires seem to be cheaped out on the most.

The only area drilled makes a clear difference is when the brakes get wet and at elevated temperatures they can give a more consistent pedal feel. Also at elevated temps they can cause excessive pad wear.

I got tired of all of the myths and misinformation and started collecting my own information on my own brakes and purchased a few SAE white papers on the subject.

cam_2

Rotor weight is part of unsprung mass, not sprung mass.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass