Control Arms: Are "Moog" worth twice the price?

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Old 05-24-2016, 10:54 PM
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Control Arms: Are "Moog" worth twice the price?

Bushings in the lower control arms on my 05 TL are smoked. Swapping the bushings looks like a pain, and since the whole arms include multiple bushings they seem like a better deal.

Checked them out on RockAuto and noticed that Mevotech cost bout $70 while Moog is $140.

I've heard Moog is a good brand but never heard anything about Mevotech. Anyway I'm pretty tempted to get the Mevos since they're so much cheaper. Brand seems to have generally decent views on Amazon, ect...

Anyone have suggestions/firsthand experience?
Old 05-25-2016, 06:56 AM
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I wouldn't hesitate as they come with a lifetime warranty and Moog is 36 mos.
I've purchased WJB $35 hub/bearing assemblies for our '08 knock around car vs. Moog $97 and they've been fine.
Old 05-25-2016, 08:33 AM
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you get what you pay for

what makes you think the LCA bushings in a 70 dollar LCA will be better than OEM bushings that alone cost that much?

Personally, when I replace my LCA, i'll be going with OEM bushings and the Fastline PCI compliance bushing
Old 05-25-2016, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
you get what you pay for

what makes you think the LCA bushings in a 70 dollar LCA will be better than OEM bushings that alone cost that much?

Personally, when I replace my LCA, i'll be going with OEM bushings and the Fastline PCI compliance bushing
yea when are you going to do that? haha i need your input before i pull the trigger on those fastline ones
Old 05-25-2016, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
I wouldn't hesitate as they come with a lifetime warranty and Moog is 36 mos.
I've purchased WJB $35 hub/bearing assemblies for our '08 knock around car vs. Moog $97 and they've been fine.
Also only the arms are lifetime warranty, the bushings are not. Moog arms also state lifetime warranty in his link for arms.
Old 05-25-2016, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
yea when are you going to do that? haha i need your input before i pull the trigger on those fastline ones


Eventually...
Old 05-25-2016, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
Eventually...
Old 05-25-2016, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
you get what you pay for
what makes you think the LCA bushings in a 70 dollar LCA will be better than OEM bushings that alone cost that much?
Personally, when I replace my LCA, i'll be going with OEM bushings and the Fastline PCI compliance bushing
If you feel you get what you pay for, go OEM for $400 each. Top money and guess what, the bushings go or we wouldn't be having this discussion.


Originally Posted by thoiboi
Also only the arms are lifetime warranty, the bushings are not. Moog arms also state lifetime warranty in his link for arms.
Check the link, they are R series arms only 36 months.
Old 05-25-2016, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
If you feel you get what you pay for, go OEM for $400 each. Top money and guess what, the bushings go or we wouldn't be having this discussion.




Check the link, they are R series arms only 36 months.
so who's making the 70$ full LCA bushings are they better/worse than OEM bushings?

what I'm saying is other than ease of installation and cost, what's the benefit of going this route rather than replacing the OEM bushings with either better ones or just new OEM ones.
Old 05-26-2016, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
you get what you pay for

what makes you think the LCA bushings in a 70 dollar LCA will be better than OEM bushings that alone cost that much?

Personally, when I replace my LCA, i'll be going with OEM bushings and the Fastline PCI compliance bushing
Originally Posted by sockr1
yea when are you going to do that? haha i need your input before i pull the trigger on those fastline ones


After a year or so (in my case) the grease wears off and you will get a squeaky noise coming from them. So get them repack with grease.
Old 05-26-2016, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilVirus
After a year or so (in my case) the grease wears off and you will get a squeaky noise coming from them. So get them repack with grease.
what are you overall thoughts on them? are they worth the purchase or are they pretty harsh on bumps and stuff? did you notice an improvement over stock?

regarding the repack, did you just use an oil gun and squirt some in from above?
Old 05-26-2016, 01:10 PM
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Removing the suspension arms is fairly easy, so long as you don't destroy the ball joint. There are various methods for separating it, and once you do one you'll see how quickly the other side will go.

Personally, I am a whore for OEM Honda parts, as they are some of the best built stock parts. I bought new bushings, removed my arms and just took them to a shop to have the bushings pushed out and new ones pressed in. Presto!
Old 05-26-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
so who's making the 70$ full LCA bushings are they better/worse than OEM bushings?

what I'm saying is other than ease of installation and cost, what's the benefit of going this route rather than replacing the OEM bushings with either better ones or just new OEM ones.
I do agree, replace bushings, but the OP feels more comfotable with the ease and quickness of complete LA replacement.
Old 05-26-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBello
Removing the suspension arms is fairly easy, so long as you don't destroy the ball joint. There are various methods for separating it, and once you do one you'll see how quickly the other side will go.

Personally, I am a whore for OEM Honda parts, as they are some of the best built stock parts. I bought new bushings, removed my arms and just took them to a shop to have the bushings pushed out and new ones pressed in. Presto!
how much did they charge to press in the bushings?
Old 05-26-2016, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sockr1
what are you overall thoughts on them? are they worth the purchase or are they pretty harsh on bumps and stuff? did you notice an improvement over stock?

regarding the repack, did you just use an oil gun and squirt some in from above?

There are not harsh at all. Justnspace rode in my car and felt it smooth too. I now have 62a mounts (front and side) so I cannot tell any other differences compare to stock. I bought them for the sole purpose of not having to replace the OEM ones. Albeit, repacking the after a year and so didn't sit well with me. If I don't have to repack them again after a year or two, then no. If they last like 5 years, then yes, they are worth it.


At the time, I couldn't do this myself (due to a back injury); so I had my mechanic do it. He said he open it up and just filled it with lithium grease.
Old 05-26-2016, 04:04 PM
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Hmmm good to know, I never heard about that... Might change my mind
Old 05-26-2016, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilVirus
There are not harsh at all. Justnspace rode in my car and felt it smooth too. I now have 62a mounts (front and side) so I cannot tell any other differences compare to stock. I bought them for the sole purpose of not having to replace the OEM ones. Albeit, repacking the after a year and so didn't sit well with me. If I don't have to repack them again after a year or two, then no. If they last like 5 years, then yes, they are worth it.


At the time, I couldn't do this myself (due to a back injury); so I had my mechanic do it. He said he open it up and just filled it with lithium grease.
thanks for your feedback! i was reading about them all lunch and saw that one guy just sprayed wd40 all over them when he did oil changes. do you think that would be sufficient?

that's good to hear that they aren't too harsh with aftermarket mounts. i'm running gerzand's 75a mounts and there's lots of vibrations so i bet i can barely tell haha.

outside of the repacking, do you think they are worth it? mine bushings are at 107k miles but they only have very slight tears
Old 05-26-2016, 04:55 PM
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No WD40 will not help. You will have to get in there and repack them. When it happen, I tried that and other methods. It works for a couple of hours but the issue will reoccur. They are worth it if the grease stays in there for a long time. I am not sure when I got the bushings, if they were already pack in with grease or not. My mechanic told me there was no grease or sign of grease in there. So I will see how this goes. So it could have been Fastlines fault In august, it will be 1 year since I had them repack.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilVirus
No WD40 will not help. You will have to get in there and repack them. When it happen, I tried that and other methods. It works for a couple of hours but the issue will reoccur. They are worth it if the grease stays in there for a long time. I am not sure when I got the bushings, if they were already pack in with grease or not. My mechanic told me there was no grease or sign of grease in there. So I will see how this goes. So it could have been Fastlines fault In august, it will be 1 year since I had them repack.
thanks for the info that's super helpful! did you reach out to Marcus at Heeltoe and see what he says? maybe it was fastline's fault?
Old 05-27-2016, 08:53 AM
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I had no idea there were aftermarket options for our LCA bushings, I think after 180k mine are shot
Old 05-29-2016, 10:05 AM
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I used the Moog LCA on my TSX and they held up fine on these NYC pothole infested streets.
Old 05-29-2016, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by EvilVirus
...At the time, I couldn't do this myself (due to a back injury); so I had my mechanic do it. He said he open it up and just filled it with lithium grease.
How did he "open it up" ??
Old 05-29-2016, 01:20 PM
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He probably just unbolted that bushing from the subframe and tugged the arm out. Then slopped some grease on the exposed bearing. Then bolt it back in. That's my guess anyways.
Old 05-29-2016, 02:30 PM
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It looks like it's held together by a simple c clip. Just need snap ring pliers and you can easily take out the c clip and put it back after putting grease in the internals. Should be pretty simple once unbolted.
Old 05-29-2016, 05:50 PM
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Lol you don't need to remove the bearing to grease it. There is no point. It's completely exposed.

Old 05-29-2016, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 94eg!
Lol you don't need to remove the bearing to grease it. There is no point. It's completely exposed...
Exactly why I asked....
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