Best Dampering Choice
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: South Jersey
Best Dampering Choice
Ok, here's the deal boys. I'm part of the group buy for the XLR8 coilovers and this will be my first experience with a coilover setup. What I am trying to figure out is a good choice to put the damper setting at. I am probably going to drop the car about 2 inches, maybe a little less and will never go below 2 inches. I would like to try to keep a close to stock feel though I know that it probably isn't possible, that's why I say a close to stock feel. I figure that I won't be able to put the damper on 32 (softest setting) as I don't want to bottom out or hit the tires if the car travels too far downward after hitting a bump or whatever. And please spare me the "keep messing with it until you find what you like" comment, I already know that is the ultimate solution and what needs to be done. I just want to see how much you guys have lowered your cars, what kind of damper setting you are at, and how you think it feels compared to stock. Thanks for any help!
When comes to damping (not dampering
), it's all about personal preference. What you like will not be what someone else likes. Kinda like asking how much salt to put on your food. Here is what I suggest:
- Set them all to full soft and drive for a day.
- Then set them all at full stiff, and drive for a day.
You will know exactly what the difference is and be able to find a happy medium from there. Just make sure they are always set the same left to right. Not necessarily front to back.
), it's all about personal preference. What you like will not be what someone else likes. Kinda like asking how much salt to put on your food. Here is what I suggest:- Set them all to full soft and drive for a day.
- Then set them all at full stiff, and drive for a day.
You will know exactly what the difference is and be able to find a happy medium from there. Just make sure they are always set the same left to right. Not necessarily front to back.
Last edited by 94eg!; Jan 24, 2012 at 04:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
Geez, I expected a few more answers than this. With all the people with coilovers on here I didn't think it would be that hard to get some feedback as to how much you lowered your vehicle, what you set the damper at and how you feel the ride quality is.
Chip,
I have my ISC N1's on full soft and I'm lowered more than 2". With my Type-S wheels on, I don't rub in turns or over bumps/potholes. Hopefully it'll be the same situation when I put my Works back on this spring. Check out my reply in the XLR8 GB thread also. I made some other comments about the general ride quality of the ISC N1's.
Also, keep in mind that a lot of the ride quality and suspension travel depends on your spring rates too, not just the damping.
I have my ISC N1's on full soft and I'm lowered more than 2". With my Type-S wheels on, I don't rub in turns or over bumps/potholes. Hopefully it'll be the same situation when I put my Works back on this spring. Check out my reply in the XLR8 GB thread also. I made some other comments about the general ride quality of the ISC N1's.
Also, keep in mind that a lot of the ride quality and suspension travel depends on your spring rates too, not just the damping.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
Chip,
I have my ISC N1's on full soft and I'm lowered more than 2". With my Type-S wheels on, I don't rub in turns or over bumps/potholes. Hopefully it'll be the same situation when I put my Works back on this spring. Check out my reply in the XLR8 GB thread also. I made some other comments about the general ride quality of the ISC N1's.
Also, keep in mind that a lot of the ride quality and suspension travel depends on your spring rates too, not just the damping.
I have my ISC N1's on full soft and I'm lowered more than 2". With my Type-S wheels on, I don't rub in turns or over bumps/potholes. Hopefully it'll be the same situation when I put my Works back on this spring. Check out my reply in the XLR8 GB thread also. I made some other comments about the general ride quality of the ISC N1's.
Also, keep in mind that a lot of the ride quality and suspension travel depends on your spring rates too, not just the damping.



Then I put on Tein SS and lowered my car 1.7" F&R. I played with the settings on damping, I think I had it a little more firm then half way. Also installed a Progress 24mm RSB. And 245/35/19" Yoko S-Drive tires.
AWESOME, HANDLED AWESOME, rode smoother then the garbage Eibach Pro springs. I will NEVER EVER buy just lowering springs again. Especially after owning Tein SS coilovers.
I hope this helps
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
I once lowered an 07 TL Type-S with Eibach Pro springs 


Then I put on Tein SS and lowered my car 1.7" F&R. I played with the settings on damping, I think I had it a little more firm then half way. Also installed a Progress 24mm RSB. And 245/35/19" Yoko S-Drive tires.
AWESOME, HANDLED AWESOME, rode smoother then the garbage Eibach Pro springs. I will NEVER EVER buy just lowering springs again. Especially after owning Tein SS coilovers.



I hope this helps



Then I put on Tein SS and lowered my car 1.7" F&R. I played with the settings on damping, I think I had it a little more firm then half way. Also installed a Progress 24mm RSB. And 245/35/19" Yoko S-Drive tires.
AWESOME, HANDLED AWESOME, rode smoother then the garbage Eibach Pro springs. I will NEVER EVER buy just lowering springs again. Especially after owning Tein SS coilovers.
I hope this helps
im on tein ss. 3 clicks from the softest in the front. and i think 5 clicks from the softest in the rear. Passengers tell me the ride is smooth 
its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.

its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.
Ridin on megans, Havent put many miles on them yet but im at 12 clicks from softest in front, and full soft in rear.
Lowered 1.75" or 25" from floor to fender all around.
Will be doing more adjustments on height and damping settings, but im happy with the coils.
PS. stock wheels, Progress rsb, and Innac's diet (fully gutted trunk)
Lowered 1.75" or 25" from floor to fender all around.
Will be doing more adjustments on height and damping settings, but im happy with the coils.
PS. stock wheels, Progress rsb, and Innac's diet (fully gutted trunk)
im on tein ss. 3 clicks from the softest in the front. and i think 5 clicks from the softest in the rear. Passengers tell me the ride is smooth 
its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.

its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.
Ridin on megans, Havent put many miles on them yet but im at 12 clicks from softest in front, and full soft in rear.
Lowered 1.75" or 25" from floor to fender all around.
Will be doing more adjustments on height and damping settings, but im happy with the coils.
PS. stock wheels, Progress rsb, and Innac's diet (fully gutted trunk)
Lowered 1.75" or 25" from floor to fender all around.
Will be doing more adjustments on height and damping settings, but im happy with the coils.
PS. stock wheels, Progress rsb, and Innac's diet (fully gutted trunk)
unless the XLR8 coils has the same valving as these coils mentioned above, you wont get the same results.
Science fair, any one?
OP, please take the advice in the 2nd post.
re-reading your original post, you say you want a stock like ride.
KEEP THEM HOES ON FULL SOFT.
Last edited by justnspace; Jan 26, 2012 at 08:45 AM.
Care to elaborate on what is invalid about their posts? Seems to me like they're just sharing experiences with their ride height/damping, which is exactly what the OP asked for.
for the information to apply to the OP, it has to be the same shock/coilovers.
I'll bet that megans, xlr8, tien ss all have different spring rates and valving.
this means it wont be the same for the OP.
[quote=justnspace;13509270]this information is INVALID.
unless the XLR8 coils has the same valving as these coils mentioned above, you wont get the same results.
quote]
Just posting how I got "MY" desired results...OP doesnt have the coils yet, and everyones response gives him an idea where to start
unless the XLR8 coils has the same valving as these coils mentioned above, you wont get the same results.
quote]
Just posting how I got "MY" desired results...OP doesnt have the coils yet, and everyones response gives him an idea where to start
this information is INVALID.
unless the XLR8 coils has the same valving as these coils mentioned above, you wont get the same results.
Science fair, any one?
OP, please take the advice in the 2nd post.
re-reading your original post, you say you want a stock like ride.
unless the XLR8 coils has the same valving as these coils mentioned above, you wont get the same results.
Science fair, any one?
OP, please take the advice in the 2nd post.
re-reading your original post, you say you want a stock like ride.
- Set them all to full soft and drive for a day.
- Then set them all at full stiff, and drive for a day.
it comes down to if u want comfort but at the same time risk bottoming out on bumps then go soft as possible.
Last edited by TWiSDiT; Jan 26, 2012 at 09:16 AM.
well, OP wanted to know damping setting opinions from others, so i gave him my setup and experience. Overall, the damping concept is about the same for all coils as 94eg! stated above:
- Set them all to full soft and drive for a day.
- Then set them all at full stiff, and drive for a day.
it comes down to if u want comfort but at the same time risk bottoming out on bumps then go soft as possible.
- Set them all to full soft and drive for a day.
- Then set them all at full stiff, and drive for a day.
it comes down to if u want comfort but at the same time risk bottoming out on bumps then go soft as possible.
your damping choices are different than mine.
this is why the information does not apply.
im on tein ss. 3 clicks from the softest in the front. and i think 5 clicks from the softest in the rear. Passengers tell me the ride is smooth 
its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.

its different when youre the driver and passenger. It feels as if the driver feels all the imperfections, while passengers wont even notice the harsher ride.
Sooooo.... Have no worries. Try it all. Experience, learn and understand the changes. Then you won't have any trouble finding what works for you. And next time around you'll be the one giving the good advice.
BTW: Women are creatures of the moment. Their current state has a lot to do with their opinions of their surroundings. My wife had zero complaints and rode around all day in my rock-hard civic hot-rod when she was 9-months pregnant with nothing but smiles. Now, I can't even get her in the damn thing for this reason or that. You just never know how they are gonna respond next.
Last edited by 94eg!; Jan 26, 2012 at 09:36 AM.
helloi have megans and i have the front on full stiff and the rear on 24/32 stiff.
on full soft it was too bouncy and floaty and on full stiff, i broke my back.
fronts on full stiff helps because i have aggressive wheels and i don't want a lot of suspension travel in case i hit a dip/pot hole whatever. rears can be dialed down a little bit, but i didn't want them to be that far off from the front setting and after playing around with all the numbers, i landed on 24/32 and it rides very comfortable.
seacrest, out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
Thanks for all the input guys. I get what you're saying Justin. I know each coil is different and I actually ordered to the lowest spring rates with the coils I got. So some people with a different spring rate than me may have less travel on full soft than I will on full soft. I was just trying to gauge when stiff becomes too stiff. I know the car will not ride like stock and that's the price you pat for an aftermarket setup, but I just want to try to keep it similar without being too bouncy and not being too stiff. And the only way to find that out is to keep making adjustments until I find what I like. I just wanted people to share what they did with their setup, that's all.
You've got these in your car already, yeah? How do you access the coilovers once they are installed to adjust the damping? I understand that you can get to them easily in the front, but you don't have to take the back seat out to adjust them, do you?
The Machine: A stiffer damper won't keep you from bottoming out. It just slows the rate at which it will happen. The spring, shock length & bump-stop are ultimately responsible for the suspensions range of motion.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
Is this why people tend to go with the 12/8 spring rate over the 10/6. I went with the 10/6 for a more comfortable ride, but if I will be more prone to bottom out, would it be wise to go with the 12/8 spring rate instead? I think I would be ok with the 10/6 here in south jersey as the roads aren't super bad, but would consider changing the spring rate before the order is shipped if it might be an issue.
Is this why people tend to go with the 12/8 spring rate over the 10/6. I went with the 10/6 for a more comfortable ride, but if I will be more prone to bottom out, would it be wise to go with the 12/8 spring rate instead? I think I would be ok with the 10/6 here in south jersey as the roads aren't super bad, but would consider changing the spring rate before the order is shipped if it might be an issue.
), but I'm sure you will be fine using any of the standard spring rates that are being offered with the kit.The real people to ask would be the ones that designed the coilover. But even then you need to know your target ride height (ie: -2.5" or -1.75" etc).
BTW: Don't forget you have bump-stops that are actually their to assist the spring in the last inch+ of shock travel. They cause the spring rate to rise progressively as the rubber is compressed. The automotive industry likes to refer to them as spring helpers.
The nice thing about having coil-overs is that you can easily change the ride height if you find you are scraping here and there. But try to figure out your final ride height within a few days (at most a week). You will NEED to get an alignment once it's all said & done. Otherwise the toe in/out you get from lowering will destroy your tires.
No worries about camber, it's toe that WILL kill the inner edge fast.
Last edited by 94eg!; Jan 26, 2012 at 04:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 802
From: South Jersey
It really depends on how low you go. The lower you set your ride height, the stiffer the spring should be to keep from bottoming. It also has to do with the road conditions. The worse the roads, the more likely you will bottom out. Also speed bumps play a huge factor in ride height. I can't comment on those spring rates specifically because I don't know much about the TL's weight (or metric spring rates
), but I'm sure you will be fine using any of the standard spring rates that are being offered with the kit.
The real people to ask would be the ones that designed the coilover. But even then you need to know your target ride height (ie: -2.5" or -1.75" etc).
BTW: Don't forget you have bump-stops that are actually their to assist the spring in the last inch+ of shock travel. They cause the spring rate to rise progressively as the rubber is compressed. The automotive industry likes to refer to them as spring helpers.
The nice thing about having coil-overs is that you can easily change the ride height if you find you are scraping here and there. But try to figure out your final ride height within a few days (at most a week). You will NEED to get an alignment once it's all said & done. Otherwise the toe in/out you get from lowering will destroy your tires.
No worries about camber, it's toe that WILL kill the inner edge fast.
), but I'm sure you will be fine using any of the standard spring rates that are being offered with the kit.The real people to ask would be the ones that designed the coilover. But even then you need to know your target ride height (ie: -2.5" or -1.75" etc).
BTW: Don't forget you have bump-stops that are actually their to assist the spring in the last inch+ of shock travel. They cause the spring rate to rise progressively as the rubber is compressed. The automotive industry likes to refer to them as spring helpers.
The nice thing about having coil-overs is that you can easily change the ride height if you find you are scraping here and there. But try to figure out your final ride height within a few days (at most a week). You will NEED to get an alignment once it's all said & done. Otherwise the toe in/out you get from lowering will destroy your tires.
No worries about camber, it's toe that WILL kill the inner edge fast.
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There are so many posts and I'm not sure if this was mentioned but I would recommend leaving your back seat out and your front strut bar off until you dial in the damping. Then, once you have found YOUR perfect setup, reinstall the back seat and the factory strut bar.
If you want a softer ride, start at full soft. If it works for you leave it there. If not dial it up a few clicks.
If you want a softer ride, start at full soft. If it works for you leave it there. If not dial it up a few clicks.
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