I got a new set of tires a few weeks ago and I've already noticed that the tread is starting to wear, which reminded me I needed to get an alignment. I got an appointment at a local place specializing in Honda, Acura, Lexus, and Toyota and and I had to stay there while they were working on it. They did an inspection of the vehicle and found several other issues, but my main concern was the alignment. About that they said that the rear bolts were seized and gave me a quote for almost $1800 to get everything fixed so that they could then do an alignment which would be another extra $150 or so dollars. I try to do most of the stuff myself, so I just told them that I think about it see what I can come up with and get back with them, but I did agree that we needed to go ahead and get this done because I didn't want to burn through another set of tires quickly.
I got home and doused all the bolts with rust penetrant and without too much effort got the cam bolt moving. I checked several other bolts and while they did require some work, they were nowhere near seized enough to slow down a determined impact wrench. So, my questions are:
1. Were they trying to scam me?
2. Did I break loose the wrong bolt? From the rear of the vehicle looking to the front it was the rearmost bolt that attached the rear bar from the chassis to the control arm.
3. Did they just not know what they were doing?
4. Am I the only one who doesn't know what he's doing? (Most likely scenario)
5. What else would they have needed to adjust than that rear toe arm?
Man, I don't even know what to believe.

 

It's difficult enough, via text communication, on a forum to try and decipher what a member is asking when data is incomplete to articulate / formulate a ball park response.
With that said, there is no real way to judge if this particular specialty shop was trying to 'scam' you without itemizing the 'several other issues' found during said inspection that sums the estimate up to $1800.

However, the easy answer, regarding the breaking loose of the 'seized rear bolts' (first red arrow?) can be determined by looking at the FSM diagrams below?



Now that you have loosened the rear cam bolt, take the car to another shop capable of performing alignments (to keep you from burning through the new tires), then worry about the 'several other issue' repairs later?
Good Luck

 

Asking for more info is funny because my wife just told me I go into too much detail when telling a story 😄.
But diagnosing Auto issues is not the same as story time.
As for the several issues, they included oil leaking from the drain plug (I didn't replace the crush washer. Oops. I'm thinking about adding an EZ valve for my next oil change), an electrical plug that was unplugged and dangling. I plugged it back together and subsequently the high beams stopped working. Guess what happened when I pulled the plug back apart. Ultimately it's some kind of nearly harmless electrical glitch. They wanted to do a transmission flush, brake fluid flush, valve adjustment, maybe something else. I'm not denying that those things need to be done. I'm submitting that getting this alignment is priority number one. I'll address the other issues later myself, at a fraction of what they would charge. Well, maybe not the valve adjustment, but you get the point.
The diagram you attached was helpful. It's dark, cold, and late here. I'll give the rear a look tomorrow if/when I get a chance.
Many thanks,
Stephen
My plan is to take the car to one of the many competent places in town. I hate that wheel alignment is not rocket surgery, but it might as well be because it's one of the few automotive maintenance things that can not be done in the driveway. I'll bet I could get close, but I'm humble enough to know that I very likely would lose that bet.

 

Well, I owe someone an apology. Thankfully all my accusations and angry thoughts were not voiced to him or the company. That thing is absolutely seized. I mean, I might could get it done with a shop load of equipment, but I'll likely cut it out and replace the bolt. I don't want to get too far into it until I have the replacement bolt in hand. I'll update my experiences as they evolve.

 

I had to replace a rear toe adjustment bolt. It was rusted. Get a reciprocating saw and a Diablo blade for metal. Don't use a SKILL Brand blade. They wont cut well.

 

I have a Diablo ready to go. Were you able to salvage the control arm?

 

I bought a new ARM. I twisted off or sawed the Nut side of the bolt but wasnt enough to remove the arm or the rest of the bolt.. I could jiggle it.. but I had to cut the arm on the HEAD side.. Which is facing the rear of the car.
See the Slit on the right side

 

Nut side with nut removed. Still too rusty to remove So I cut the other side as seen above