After months of wheel/tire research, I finally made the purchase. I am about 80% satisfied with the outcome.

2007 Type-S with XXR502 wheels, 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear. Tires are Continental DWS 245/40-18 front and 255/40-18 rear. The object was to go to a staggered 18" fitment without sacrificing ride quality and rim protection too much. Also without suspension and body mods and without also making it look dorky. Welllll....the rear rubs, slightly, with three bags salt in the back. I like the look, but would be more satisfied if the rear was tucked under wheel well about another 1/2 inch. Not sure what to do about rear rubbing. Any advice? Here is a link to pics. I'm not allowed to attach files, yet, but will post in the appropriate spot as soon as they let me attach files.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Red%20Rocket/

 

rear bumper tabs rubbing

but one critical piece of info left out though, WHAT THE HELL IS THE OFFSET?

 

Sorry off set is 35.

 

Not certain, but it looks like all the 18, 8.5" and 9.5" are 35mm offset.

Definitely conformation of offset is needed, but as the tires aren't all that large 26.03", not too much you can do without getting a different offset, possibly roll fender, camber the rear, then the tires will wear quickly/uneven, or 245/40's in the rear if rubbing on the sides. This would not be exactly the stagger you're looking for, but with the wider wheels it may give an appearance of having a larger tire on the rear if they clear.

Normally 9.5" with a 38-40 would be close depending on the tire size, but put the fronts on the back to see if they clear and the amount of clearance then go from there. The 9.5" wide wheels will protrude about 1/2" farther in and out than the 8.5" if both are 35. Knowing this dimension, you could put 1/2" spacers behind the 8.5" wheels when mounting to the rear, just to do a test to see if the 9.5" would clear with the 245/40 tires.

 

the 255 size is your problem,et35 should be fine. if you go down to a 245 u should be ok.

 

Problem is I don't think I can take the tires back. Are there other options? Fender roll? Machining a few millimeters off the wheel mounting surface? Adjusting camber? I was going to install an A-Spec suspension but I guess that is out. Input appreciated before I have to put the tires on eBay.

 

-tires back, probably not, unless you are willing to take a hit in the wallet some, since they are used now
-fender roll? depends on exactly where it is hitting, but very possible; and again is it possibly just hitting the bumper tabs, which just are plastic, and can easily be trimmed for better clearance
-machining? simple answer NO, you could very well compromise the structural integrity of the wheel
-camber? very possible it could prevent the rubbing, but again it depends on where it is rubbing to begin with (and would require you to purchase a camber kit, but with lowering possibly in the future, might not be a bad idea though, for better adjustability of the alignment angles)



basically what you need to do is jack the car up, maybe remove the wheel, and LOOK to see where it is rubbing (along with some pictures for us preferably), before any real recommendations can be made

 

I will look at it closer tomorrow. It looks like it is hitting just rear of the center of the wheel opening. How will a camber kit effect tire wear?

 

Another option is lower the vehicle some, it'll camber/tuck in. Rolling fenders would/should help as well. Check to see which tab/area it's rubbing at. And remove that one tab if it's rubbing there.

 

tire wear, some increased inside edge wear, but as long as the toe is set correctly, you should not see too much increased wear though
and the severity of the additional wear, completely depends on much the camber is increased; maybe instead of the tire wearing completely even, the inside edge is bald (but no cords showing) while the outside might be at the wear bars (or roughly 2/32's of tread)

that won't do anything though, cause his sand bag's are kinda doing the same effect right now for it

 

I'll try to figure out exactly where it is rubbing, tomorrow. I'll snap some more pics but I can't attach so will have to link to photobucket. Take a look at the photo link above and let me know if it looks dorky. I may just list the whole set up on ebay if popular opinion is a thumbs down.

 

as far as where it is rubbing, it should be kinda noticeable, even if you have not really driven on it far (the spots may just be smaller though, compared to having rubbed for a while)


as far as the link to the photobucket, no worries, since anybody can basically view them, unlike facebook's shit sometimes



as far as how it looks, I LIKE the wide tire part of it, compared to when people stretch tire's to fit a rim
design of the rim, not too bad of a design at all (not quite my tastes, but like if i got given a car with a set of them on it, i also would not rush out a buy a new set of rims right away either, i would definitely at least ride on them for a bit)
but i would also would at least want the car lowered first though, to help get rid of that wheel gap, but that has nothing to do with that particular rim though (any larger rim will have the same effect)

 

btw pictures linked

 

The sidewall of those tires look crazy chunky.

 

I love these rims and the price, though i would have liked 9.5 all around, i like the extra lip. GOod choice nonetheless!

 

I really didn't think the tire size was going to be an issue with the 35 offset. I did many measurements and a bunch of research.(apparently not enough measuring and research..lol) The specs, on the original Michelin Pilot HX MXM4 235/45-17 93 load range tires, are 25.6" diameter and 9.6" section width. The specs on the new Continental DWS 255/40-18 are 26.0" diameter and a 10.2" section width. I chose that size, and 245/40-18, for the front, because they were the closest to stock height without going smaller. I wanted the extra sidewall for ride quality and rim protection. Obviously, if they made the wheels in a 45 offset the tire size would not be a problem. Live and learn, I guess.

I loaded the trunk today and filled backseat with people. The tire is hitting right where the factory fender roll ends, at the top of the wheel well. I really have to compress the suspension to make it hit so it isn't rubbing by much. I think if I "carefully" roll that it might take care of the rubbing issue. Now all I need to do is find a fender roller in the west Michigan area. Here is a link to more photos with close ups of the problem area.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Red%20Rocket/

 

thought the same thing, but the fronts are stock sized though, and the rears are as close as possible to the correct size (it would need like a 37.5 aspect ratio to be the correct height )

 

 

looks like it already rolled themselves some for you (it normally looks like the front section with that lip going all the way around), just scuffed up the sidewall a little though, but not cutting into the tire though, so nothing to worry about lol (but having that little bit of extra clearence does help though in case something gets caught on the tire or something, it still has some room to pass by)

as far as lowering the car, once the quarters get rolled, it looks like it will not be an issue really (especially if you only want the very mild a-spec drop/suspension)
and i would say maybe try craigslist

 

It's weird, the backs are already half rolled on our cars for some reason.

 

Yes they are. Too bad they didn't roll them all the way. Are older and/or non-Type-S not partly rolled?

 

no (for the 2g)


let alone smaller wheel well's also

 

dude i would throw the 245/40-18 you currently have from the fronts, onto the rears and replace the fronts with 235/40-18 and sell the 255's you had on the rears to help with the cost for the new front tires...

 

I was mulling that option. The problem is as can be seen in the pics, the fender has qalready scuffed the tire a tiny bit. I'm afraid I will be taking about a $400 hit if I can't sell the 255's. I think just a slight roll will fix and maybe when the bank account recovers I can put the 245's to the rear.

 

the only option i see is going with a smaller tire

 

I found this speed shop about 25 miles from me. I dropped by and showed them the fitment. They actually said the pictures are deceiving and the rears actually do not look that fat, in person. They told me they could roll the fender lips if I wanted to keep the rear 255 tires.
The owner also told me they regularly send wheels to a machine shop to shave a few millimeters off the mounting surface. He looked up the wheel distributor's website and showed me that even though they offer the 18"only in a 35 offset, they offer 17" and 20" in a 42 offset. He said likely the hub casting is the same starting thickness on all the wheels and the 42 offset is machined 7mm more to create that offset. He said they could likely machine off 3-7mm and that would fix the rubbing. He was going to check with the manufacturer to verify the hub theory. I'm a little nervous about having someone cut on a brand new rim....however.

 

My order of suggestions (without seeing the pics as I'm at work) would be

1:
2:
Roll the quarters

3:
Machine the hubs down. I would be at a super last resort to do this though.

 

if the manufacture says it is alright to machine the hub, then go for it BUT what about the depth of the lug holes, they may have been machined deeper for the 35mm offset compared to the 42mm offset one, which would allow you to use the same length of stud (otherwise it would be too short)

so there is more to the machine then you might think

 

You are right. The manufacturer did say the counter sink on the lug holes is a little deeper. The machine shop looked and said he would go 5mm no more so as to leave enough material and not get into the taper. Also another consideration is are the lug nuts long enough to not bottom. I measured looks like I will be fine. I am still pondering though as its hard to imagine grinding on new wheels. I have a member that contacted me about taking the 255 off my hands so I am looking into that route. In the mean time
I will occupy my time trying to figure out how to get the trd supercharger, from my landcruiser, to fit on the TL....lol.....stay tuned

 

you know that material under that taper is for strength, even if they never DO machine it all the way to the taper
and maybe you should find the percentage of the material from under that taper, that would be removed, if he did do 5mm (figuring it is going to be a big percentage of material and strength taken away)

lugnuts not bottoming out, easy, either open ones, or if you want closed ones, look for the "tall" style of lug nuts, they have more room for the studs to go into it internally

as far as selling those tires, as long as you feel like you are getting a good deal, you can always go that route... (but personally i like how you did stuff a 255 on there though, not many people actually do )

 

Off to the machine shop tomorrow. I want to explore that option before tossing the 255 tires or risk paint damage by rolling. Maybe if I can get that wheel tucked in another 5mm I might be able to install the A-Spec suspension. Thanks for all the input and stay tuned.

 

Wheels are at the machine shop. They will be a 40 offset shortly. A-Spec suspension is on it's way and should be here Friday. Its my weekend off so I should be able to devote some attention to getting it all together.

 

I got the wheels back from the machine shop. They milled 5mm off the mounting surface. Received the A-Spec suspension, also, and went to work on installing the rear.

What I want to know is, who the heck is making up the installation instructions, for Honda. Starting right from the beginning the rear seat removal, is not real clear. Further, there is no reason to remove the rear trim. Once the seat back is removed, I found I could get to the shock nuts with a 14mm socket. It was a little tight and I lost a little blood but better than removing all the trim. Also, the instructions said the new parts were marked right and left. NO they are not. They look identical and have identical part numbers. Can anyone advise if their rear A-Spec assemblies were marked Right and Left?

 

because part of there reasoning is so that you do not loose any blood


and normally on rear shock and springs they will be the same, but the front can be slightly different though

 

[quote=friesm2000;12811621]because part of there reasoning is so that you do not loose any blood

I can imagine replacing one of those plastic trim pieces when they snap in half, on removal, is more expensive than band aids. If I had not been in a hurry I wouldn't have lost the blood....lol.

 

they don't snap that easily especially with proper trim removal tools, where you can pop out the clips directly from behind the panel


btw when they assemble the car they are actually tightened/installed with the back window not installed yet, so IF you really want to do it properly....

 

btw when they assemble the car they are actually tightened/installed with the back window not installed yet, so IF you really want to do it properly.... [/QUOTE]

Probably should go back and yank that window out then, just to be "Acurate"...ha

 

Now I'm happy. Wheels machined and installed. A-Spec suspension installed. Rears are now flush with no rub. Ride is decent, not bone jarring and it handles great. Here are links to some pics. Sorry she's a little dirty after a spirited ride, to test the setup...

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...3-25133245.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...3-25133401.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...3-25133337.jpg

 

I got a chance to put a few miles, on the Type-S, with the new wheels/tires and A-Spec, today It's working great, no rub and I am pleased with the ride and handling. I know some won't like the look of the beefy tires but I think the tires provide a better ride and rim protection, than some of the alternatives. Plus they are pretty close to stock diameter so my speedo is still almost right on. The only disappointment was Acura didn't include an A-Spec emblem, with the A-Spec suspension. They included instructions about how to apply and it's mentioned on the parts list, but it was not in the box. I hear Acura discontinued the emblem...bummer

 

yea lots of people have been looking for the aspec emblem with no luck