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iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to tackle the infamous draw for a number of years now on my 07 TL-S. I've read most threads/posts lol FML. Here are my current conclusions, findings, and steps taken:

1. ONLY interior Fuse #7 is causing the drain
2. Car tries to unlock itself constantly when off and occasionally while driving, leaving the car locked overnight would set alarm off
3. Carpet near interior fuse box seems dry with heavy rain
4. HFL, microphone, and active noise cancellation module (behind central AC + clock) have been disconnected
5. With car in sleep mode, locked, and closing hood/door latches, fuse #7 is draining 0.35A
6. Tried disconnecting most in the fuse #7 chain: Acuralink control unit, Clock/hazard light, front passenger window switch/control unit, gauge control module (is this the gauge cluster?), power mirror control (i assumed unplugging the main connector to all door modules would kill the power mirror controller), same with power window master switch.
7. Gauge cluster (gauge control module?) is draining 0.15A, reducing the total draw to 0.20A
8. Have not replaced the AC relay in the engine bay fusebox. unplugged and saw no draw. But front center AC vents are very weak compared to the rest.

The items that are tied to fuse #7 that I havent unplugged (bc i couldn't locate them): immobilizer Control Unit-Receiver, Imoes Unit('08) mine is a '07 so didnt look, Security Indicator, Multiplex Integrated Control Unit (MICU).
Searched that MICU is built into the driverside fusebox? Would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction to find the items above. Or any other insight will be highly appreciated.

I would like to fricken fix this issue after 5+ years of pulling my hair out.

offaoffaoffa

iTrader: (1)

So found and disconnected the immobilizer control unit, but it was not the culprit. Was really hoping the immobilizer was the problem, since it would have confirmed why the car unlocks itself randomly.

But something in the steering column is draining 0.08mA. seems negligible.

That leaves the security indicator, and MICU in the fuse #7 chain.

Is the MICU the interior fuse box? No idea where to locate the security indicator.

offaoffaoffa

iTrader: (1)

Got around to replacing the kick panel fuse box with a used one on ebay. RIP my fingertips, all those connectors were a PITA. Was REALLY hoping the MICU was the culprit, but no. Still seeing a pulsing draw of 0.18~0.19A… I will say the with battery terminals connected, the car has not set off the alarm overnight, yet.

That leaves the last item in the fuse 7 chain, the security indicator. Which i still assume in part of the center console/cd/tap drive. (Flashing red dot)

Lastly, replaced the AC relay in the engine bay fuse box. Think the center AC vents blow stronger, but will have to wait til I install all the interior panels.

Feel like I’ve hit a dead end… would appreciate any insight. Maybe i missed something 🤔

csmeance

Check your hood latch, all door sensors and as well verify that all 4 power door locks work fine. A stuck door-lock in the unlocked position can cause all of these issues.

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iTrader: (1)

​​​​​​​Thanks for the reply. Couple of years back I did replace the front driver+passenger door lock actuators, thinking they were the issue (they were not). Passenger side currently does not work, but dismissed it being an issue since unplugging the entire harness did not show a decrease in power draw. However, I did not check the rears. I'll get around those today and report back!