Wtf?? I need new front pads @ 13,000 miles (tl-s)
03-18-2009, 03:41 PM
#3
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You're not the first and won't be the last. Mine lasted almost 20k.
A few have made it well past 30, but not many.
13 is on the early side, but there have been a few.
How was the wear determined? Did you or the tech actually measure the remaining pad? Hitting the squealer tab? If a tech estimated it visually, I'd question it.
A few have made it well past 30, but not many.
13 is on the early side, but there have been a few.
How was the wear determined? Did you or the tech actually measure the remaining pad? Hitting the squealer tab? If a tech estimated it visually, I'd question it.
03-18-2009, 04:01 PM
#5
Full of water...
depends how much you want to spend. i would suggest just a pads, and others can chime in about theirs. i upgraded my AT brakes to RacingBrake rotors and ET500 pads and love them...
03-18-2009, 08:21 PM
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If you want to get full life out of stock rotors before changing do 2 things:
1. Don't turn/resurface them if you don't have to. Removing metal just causes them to lose heat disappation and they will "warp" or build up pad material faster.
2. Make sure your lugs are at spec: 80 ft/lbs. To tight and you'll warp them faster.
.
03-18-2009, 08:35 PM
#7
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I have about 24k on my original pads/rotors (think I misquoted in another thread) with no signs of reduced performance. But, considering how fast most people's pads are going I figure I need to check mine. That said, what is the correct way to measure the pads?
From what I've read lately on brakes (probably mostly from Bearcat!) I'll likely go with RB stuff when I do change everything out. But, I may wait until I go through another set of pads just to get the most out of the stock rotors. Is it pretty straight forward to figure out if the stock rotors need to be turned? Mine have a little lip around the edge which sounds normal from what I've read and the surface isn't completely smooth but there aren't any significant gouges or anything in them.
From what I've read lately on brakes (probably mostly from Bearcat!) I'll likely go with RB stuff when I do change everything out. But, I may wait until I go through another set of pads just to get the most out of the stock rotors. Is it pretty straight forward to figure out if the stock rotors need to be turned? Mine have a little lip around the edge which sounds normal from what I've read and the surface isn't completely smooth but there aren't any significant gouges or anything in them.
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03-18-2009, 09:50 PM
#9
Mine lasted 23.5K, could have gone more, but, since I was about going on a long trip (moving up north), so, I've decided to change new pads, otherwise, I'm sure, I could have at least pass the 25K mark.
I don't brake too hard and too often. I do accelerate a lot, but normally use engine to slow down, and then use brakes.
You should adjust your driving style.
I don't brake too hard and too often. I do accelerate a lot, but normally use engine to slow down, and then use brakes.
You should adjust your driving style.
03-19-2009, 05:31 AM
#11
Registered Member
I replaced my stock pads on my '04 manual at around 25,000 miles to reduce the dusting. They still had around 35-40,000 left in them (I still have them in my garage). I have a next door neighbor who has over 75,000 miles on his stock pads ('05 manual) and I just examined them a week and a half ago. He's probably good for another 15-20,000 miles on them.
So yes, your pad mileage is significantly under what one might expect. Since my '04 was probably going to see over 60,000 miles out of the factory pads, less that 20,000 is a BIG difference.
So yes, your pad mileage is significantly under what one might expect. Since my '04 was probably going to see over 60,000 miles out of the factory pads, less that 20,000 is a BIG difference.
03-19-2009, 08:55 AM
#13
I replaced my stock pads on my '04 manual at around 25,000 miles to reduce the dusting. They still had around 35-40,000 left in them (I still have them in my garage). I have a next door neighbor who has over 75,000 miles on his stock pads ('05 manual) and I just examined them a week and a half ago. He's probably good for another 15-20,000 miles on them.
So yes, your pad mileage is significantly under what one might expect. Since my '04 was probably going to see over 60,000 miles out of the factory pads, less that 20,000 is a BIG difference.
So yes, your pad mileage is significantly under what one might expect. Since my '04 was probably going to see over 60,000 miles out of the factory pads, less that 20,000 is a BIG difference.
i do about 50/50 highway/city, and i dont see myself getting more then 25k out of mine....
03-19-2009, 10:49 PM
#14
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I know they changed the pad design somewhere along the way. Wonder if they changed the pad material too - particularly when the TL-S was introduced.
- idle speculation on my part.
- idle speculation on my part.
03-20-2009, 02:03 PM
#16
never stops!
I've my sotck pads and am over 70K miles now on my 04TL 6 Spd. I had replaced it for TSB on sqealing brakes though very early in 2005. I have about 3/32 remaining on them now. It's time to replace my pads and Rotors as well. I was told by dealer that my rotors are at 22mm.
Any good place in Tri-Valley, Bay Area you guys recommend where I would get it replaced? I'm buying Rotora from Josh but have extra set of pads I bought in black market.
Any good place in Tri-Valley, Bay Area you guys recommend where I would get it replaced? I'm buying Rotora from Josh but have extra set of pads I bought in black market.
03-20-2009, 02:23 PM
#17
I've my sotck pads and am over 70K miles now on my 04TL 6 Spd. I had replaced it for TSB on sqealing brakes though very early in 2005. I have about 3/32 remaining on them now. It's time to replace my pads and Rotors as well. I was told by dealer that my rotors are at 22mm.
Any good place in Tri-Valley, Bay Area you guys recommend where I would get it replaced? I'm buying Rotora from Josh but have extra set of pads I bought in black market.
Any good place in Tri-Valley, Bay Area you guys recommend where I would get it replaced? I'm buying Rotora from Josh but have extra set of pads I bought in black market.
03-20-2009, 03:49 PM
#18
never stops!
03-20-2009, 04:43 PM
#20
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However, Acura did make a pad change to reduce noise (not sure when but there is a TSB). They added chamfers to the pad design, changed from Molykote-77 grease (Grey/Black) to Brembo grease (Orange/Gold) and added/changed shims.
I am wondering if they also changed the pad compound at that time so that early users ware getting MUCH longer pad life (40k, 50k+) than later users (15k, 20k, 25k).
Like I said -
idle speculation on my part. Really don't care; I drive how I drive and the pads wear out when they wear out. 
.
03-20-2009, 05:30 PM
#21
Registered Member
My neighbor with the '05 manual commutes each day in the opposite direction of commuting traffic flow for about 40 miles each way, most all of which is a major interstate highway... thus the high mileage. If he is careful, he could see 90,000 miles out of his original OEM pads.
03-20-2009, 08:20 PM
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Agree. I've run the ET500 pads on the '02 and '07 and they are very good. I like the RB stuff - rotors, pads, SS lines - all of it. Very good experiences so far.
If you want to get full life out of stock rotors before changing do 2 things:
1. Don't turn/resurface them if you don't have to. Removing metal just causes them to lose heat disappation and they will "warp" or build up pad material faster.
2. Make sure your lugs are at spec: 80 ft/lbs. To tight and you'll warp them faster.
.
If you want to get full life out of stock rotors before changing do 2 things:
1. Don't turn/resurface them if you don't have to. Removing metal just causes them to lose heat disappation and they will "warp" or build up pad material faster.
2. Make sure your lugs are at spec: 80 ft/lbs. To tight and you'll warp them faster.
.
03-21-2009, 10:45 AM
#23
wdp skyhawk
03-21-2009, 10:59 AM
#25
KBPftmfw
So, in a nutshell, we can all surmise that if you do a majority of city driving you should be prepared to change front pads before 30K miles.
I'm at 19,9xx right now and I will easily get AT LEAST 25K out of my fronts. I do 75/25 highway/city driving, though.
I'm at 19,9xx right now and I will easily get AT LEAST 25K out of my fronts. I do 75/25 highway/city driving, though.
03-21-2009, 01:14 PM
#26
Racer
03-21-2009, 09:18 PM
#27
Instructor
Wow I got 54K miles out of my stock brembo's before I had to change them, and I thought that was early. I had my 99 integra prior to my TL and got 82K out of my original pads.
03-21-2009, 09:34 PM
#28
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I have about 24k on my original pads/rotors (think I misquoted in another thread) with no signs of reduced performance. But, considering how fast most people's pads are going I figure I need to check mine. That said, what is the correct way to measure the pads?
From what I've read lately on brakes (probably mostly from Bearcat!) I'll likely go with RB stuff when I do change everything out. But, I may wait until I go through another set of pads just to get the most out of the stock rotors. Is it pretty straight forward to figure out if the stock rotors need to be turned? Mine have a little lip around the edge which sounds normal from what I've read and the surface isn't completely smooth but there aren't any significant gouges or anything in them.
From what I've read lately on brakes (probably mostly from Bearcat!) I'll likely go with RB stuff when I do change everything out. But, I may wait until I go through another set of pads just to get the most out of the stock rotors. Is it pretty straight forward to figure out if the stock rotors need to be turned? Mine have a little lip around the edge which sounds normal from what I've read and the surface isn't completely smooth but there aren't any significant gouges or anything in them.
Also, obviously driving habits make a big difference but I always wonder how much the transmission, AT vs. MT, effects pad wear. I find I'm rarely on the brakes hard since I'm usually using my gears to control speed.
03-26-2009, 12:09 AM
#29
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I have an 07' Type S with 60,000 miles. I went through my first set of pads pretty quick then changed to aftermarket pads and drilled/slotted rotors from Rotorpros.com. E-mail Rich there and tell him Tom L. sent you.
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