Wobbly upon acceleration?
#1
Wobbly upon acceleration?
I have a 05 AT with appx 30k
Ive noticed latly that my car has been kinda wobbly upon acceleration, I "think" it happens around 2-4k RPM and possibly uphill (not 100% sure). feels like the axles are loose, IDK if some of you remember how it was when we had integra's/civic's. Just a dirty acceleration, Not nice and clean. I check'd my axles but they seem fine.
Any ideas?
Ive noticed latly that my car has been kinda wobbly upon acceleration, I "think" it happens around 2-4k RPM and possibly uphill (not 100% sure). feels like the axles are loose, IDK if some of you remember how it was when we had integra's/civic's. Just a dirty acceleration, Not nice and clean. I check'd my axles but they seem fine.
Any ideas?
#4
Could still be the axles. The boot could still be intact. You won't be able to see anything by looking if this is the case. Vibration under acceleration would likely be the inner cv joint or like others suggested, a bad trans or motor mount.
Have it checked out.
Have it checked out.
#6
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reviving this thread cause I have a problem similar...car drove fine...then yesterday, installed TEIN ss's and gives me a wobble from 2K to 4K revs. Axles COULDN'T have gone bad from one second to next. Everything is tightened up and drives smooth once you get going or let go of gas.
I'm thinking by lowering car I threw off toe/camber/caster and now I'm feeling a different part of the tread of the tire (tires are almost gone..have new ones in my bedroom waiting to be installed/aligned). What does everyone think?
Thank you!
I'm thinking by lowering car I threw off toe/camber/caster and now I'm feeling a different part of the tread of the tire (tires are almost gone..have new ones in my bedroom waiting to be installed/aligned). What does everyone think?
Thank you!
#7
You driving saddle rd.? lol.. check your alignment. Do you hear any unusual road noise while accelerating or up to speed? Rough idle / shaking steering column? Do you notice it all the time or only sometimes? Does it depend on speed while accelerating or road / road conditions?
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#8
reviving this thread cause I have a problem similar...car drove fine...then yesterday, installed TEIN ss's and gives me a wobble from 2K to 4K revs. Axles COULDN'T have gone bad from one second to next. Everything is tightened up and drives smooth once you get going or let go of gas.
I'm thinking by lowering car I threw off toe/camber/caster and now I'm feeling a different part of the tread of the tire (tires are almost gone..have new ones in my bedroom waiting to be installed/aligned). What does everyone think?
Thank you!
I'm thinking by lowering car I threw off toe/camber/caster and now I'm feeling a different part of the tread of the tire (tires are almost gone..have new ones in my bedroom waiting to be installed/aligned). What does everyone think?
Thank you!
#10
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Ok...so I got an alignment and the wobble is still there. I went back to original lugs in case it was that (had put smaller tuner lugs). I ended up realizing that I had forgotten to install the gold spring seats in the front, when i installed them, the wobbling got a LOT better. But it's still there...it's faint, but it's only felt from 2500 to about 3500 rpms, mostly in second gear. I don't get it.
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
#11
Ok...so I got an alignment and the wobble is still there. I went back to original lugs in case it was that (had put smaller tuner lugs). I ended up realizing that I had forgotten to install the gold spring seats in the front, when i installed them, the wobbling got a LOT better. But it's still there...it's faint, but it's only felt from 2500 to about 3500 rpms, mostly in second gear. I don't get it.
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
#12
Ok...so I got an alignment and the wobble is still there. I went back to original lugs in case it was that (had put smaller tuner lugs). I ended up realizing that I had forgotten to install the gold spring seats in the front, when i installed them, the wobbling got a LOT better. But it's still there...it's faint, but it's only felt from 2500 to about 3500 rpms, mostly in second gear. I don't get it.
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
Also, there's a slight "thumping" sound coming from one of the rear struts...can be heard in the car. It's smooth and I DON'T hear it when going over bumps. What do you guys think?
Listen to the axles.. if you hear any grinding / creaking metal.. beware. Check the boots for leaking as well.
#13
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Thanks for the info. I bought these off of ebay for significantly lower, but now realize they are meant for an 03 accord. TEIN says they fit, but are a not meant for the TL...they are a little longer. Maybe this is causing the problem?! Also, yeah, was thinking that might be the case with the rear shock...being blown etc. Also, the guy claimed they were in perfect working order...they were missing the screw for dampening adjustment on 1 shock, and 2 others were there but not connected to anything. I just opened a dispute with paypal. I want new ones that are our model number.
Lesson learned.
J>
Lesson learned.
J>
#14
eww.. yeah.. I suspect if you go back to stock your problems may fade away. Too bad.. well maybe you can pawn them off to someone with an '03 Accord. You should be able to tell if the shock is blown if there is no sign of leaking by removing it from the assembly and pushing down on it. There'll be a noticeable difference. You may want to try swapping out the shocks in the rears for the stock shocks and see if there's a difference. I don't know if you're doing all this work in your garage, but if you are, it might do the trick. Good Luck!
btw.. i didn't see that you revived this thread until recently.. I thought WalkerUA6 recently posted and my original post was commenting on his post; saddle rd. is a 2-lane death road on the big island of Hawaii that is rolling hills and twisting turns on a road that looks like it was shelled by the 3rd Brigade for a stretch of 20 miles where everyone drives 60+... a life experience to say the least.
btw.. i didn't see that you revived this thread until recently.. I thought WalkerUA6 recently posted and my original post was commenting on his post; saddle rd. is a 2-lane death road on the big island of Hawaii that is rolling hills and twisting turns on a road that looks like it was shelled by the 3rd Brigade for a stretch of 20 miles where everyone drives 60+... a life experience to say the least.
#15
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Thanks man...YEah...definitely revived it. I actually used search, if you can believe that!
Anyway, with the dispute to paypal they actually haven't released funds to the guy so I can more than likely have them approve a refund (if he decides not to) and then ship them back to him and order new ones. I thought of going with basics...but heard they are more harsh. Other than the negative camber (-2.5 in rears) and other issues, these things roll SOOOO smoothly for a NO finger gap drop. I was told not to worry about the camber, since TOE will eat up the tires a lot more than negative camber. Hopefully that will hold true for me.
J.
Anyway, with the dispute to paypal they actually haven't released funds to the guy so I can more than likely have them approve a refund (if he decides not to) and then ship them back to him and order new ones. I thought of going with basics...but heard they are more harsh. Other than the negative camber (-2.5 in rears) and other issues, these things roll SOOOO smoothly for a NO finger gap drop. I was told not to worry about the camber, since TOE will eat up the tires a lot more than negative camber. Hopefully that will hold true for me.
J.
#16
Thanks man...YEah...definitely revived it. I actually used search, if you can believe that!
Anyway, with the dispute to paypal they actually haven't released funds to the guy so I can more than likely have them approve a refund (if he decides not to) and then ship them back to him and order new ones. I thought of going with basics...but heard they are more harsh. Other than the negative camber (-2.5 in rears) and other issues, these things roll SOOOO smoothly for a NO finger gap drop. I was told not to worry about the camber, since TOE will eat up the tires a lot more than negative camber. Hopefully that will hold true for me.
J.
Anyway, with the dispute to paypal they actually haven't released funds to the guy so I can more than likely have them approve a refund (if he decides not to) and then ship them back to him and order new ones. I thought of going with basics...but heard they are more harsh. Other than the negative camber (-2.5 in rears) and other issues, these things roll SOOOO smoothly for a NO finger gap drop. I was told not to worry about the camber, since TOE will eat up the tires a lot more than negative camber. Hopefully that will hold true for me.
J.
You have zero gap.. lol.. the most I ran was 1-2 finger gap on my 93 accord. It got so annoying angling that car over speed bumps and driveways. When I hit a unexpected pothole I'd do a death cringe and I always feared inspecting the rims. I really miss her but I don't miss the anxiety.. lol..
Good one on the paypal.. I'd hate to be on the other end of that dispute.. I heard they can even reach into your bank account. Crazy.
#17
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Oh yeah...lol...they sure can. I may bring the car up with the new ones when I get them. Maybe to 1 finger...this car is SURPRISINGLY smooth even with such a drastic drop.
Depending on the way it's eating up when I do my oil change and rotate, I'll make a decision on the camber kit. I got a tire with a 520 treadware so hopefully I'll be able to make it last a LONG Time!
Depending on the way it's eating up when I do my oil change and rotate, I'll make a decision on the camber kit. I got a tire with a 520 treadware so hopefully I'll be able to make it last a LONG Time!
#19
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Sorry Majofo, just noticed you had replied. I tried out the YK520's. Yokohama...got 245 40 18's for my 8.5" Aspecs. I have to say...handling is GREAT...noise is nonexistent...and smooth as butter. I am super happy. Check discounttiredirect.com for prices. $159 each and free shipping. Then paid 80 bucks locally to mount and balance. Very happy with my purchase!
End result of the dispute...I asked for all my money back (since I have to ship back) kid retaliated with my money minus shipping...I said no, he paid 45 bucks back toward shipping to him. FINE...I accepted and placed the order for the TL part number. The SS's he sent were for an accord which are a 1/2 inch longer than the TL one per the TEIN tech I spoke with. Plus the used ones were pretty beat up and missing things so I'm praying that once I change to the NEW ones meant for a TL ALL issues will disappear!
End result of the dispute...I asked for all my money back (since I have to ship back) kid retaliated with my money minus shipping...I said no, he paid 45 bucks back toward shipping to him. FINE...I accepted and placed the order for the TL part number. The SS's he sent were for an accord which are a 1/2 inch longer than the TL one per the TEIN tech I spoke with. Plus the used ones were pretty beat up and missing things so I'm praying that once I change to the NEW ones meant for a TL ALL issues will disappear!
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