gwai1o

I am metal to metal on the driver's side rear outer brake pad. There is zero pad left and it is starting to grind away at my rotor (and making a dreadful noise of course). Now, the inner pad on the same wheel is fine and all of my other brake pads have plenty of life left. It's just the one that is completely gone and they were all done at the same time.

I have Rotora drilled/slotted rotors and H2 ceramic pads that were all professionally installed at the exact same time. This was done just over two years ago.

I scanned the 3G Garage but I didn't find what I was looking for.

Any insight or feedback would be great. Thanks guys

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Caliper not sliding properly. As the piston pushes the inner pad against the rotor, the caliper moves inward to have the outer pad make contact with the rotor. Let off the brakes and the piston and inner pad move inward away from the rotor, but if the caliper stays in place, the outer pad stays in contact with the rotor.

gwai1o

Thank you for the input. Is there a way for me to confirm this and fix this without taking it to a shop? I'm not afraid of a DIY if its within my abilities..

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Should be something you can do as it's relatively easy, especially after it’s done a time or two, but read up on the procedure before getting stuck in the middle of the job. Just make certain the pin boots are intact, not torn, the pins are straight, not bent, not corroded, retainers are installed properly, clean everything up and apply a high temp lube to the sliders. The lube is made specifically for the brake caliper sliders available at any parts store. You may also want to apply some brake anti-squeal compound to the back side of the shims if they are still on the pads, but if not, directly onto the back of the pads.
You'll also need new pads and if different from the installed pads, both sides will need to be replaced. You'll also need to push the caliper piston in before installing the new pads. I usually place the old pad against the piston then use a C clamp to push the piston in. I've had piston brake tools in the past but they didn't last very long.
Another note, make certain that the brake master cylinder has enough "space" to accept the brake fluid that is pushed back when the piston is moved inward, as you may need to remove some with a "turkey" baster. I undo the caliper bleeder, push in the piston, and then tighten the bleeder. Makes pushing the piston in a great deal easier and also expels the "old" fluid and no possibility of overfilling the master cylinder.

Here's some threads from the 3G Garage:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/replacing-brakes-pictures-3g-garage-d-041-a-770166/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-complete-brake-job-pics-624404/

gwai1o

Thank you. This was very helpful

johnny3

I've repaired brakes that had the brake pad material come loose/unbonded, seperated for some reason leaving the steel part to contact the rotor directly, ruins the rotor by the time customer has brakes inspected. The sliding part of the caliper was working correctly each time but I can see if it was not it could cause the problem. Seems to me the pad does not get a good bond sometimes.
I go back with OEM pads for quality, others would argue this I know.