My car started vibrating when braking so im thinking its something 2 do with the brakes if i do have warped rotors i wanted 2 kno everyones on these rotors

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...categoryZ33564

 

There are many threads on this topic.

I could easily say the consensus is the OEM 5AT rotors warp fairly easily.

 

u kno u can just tell the dealer "pwnt" 4tw

 

Linky, no worky for me. I would avoid drilled or slotted rotors in cars that tend to warp them. The extra mass of the full disk, while detracting from the factor, reduces the tendency to warp/crack, etc.

 

Some on line companies are starting to carry rotors, even for the brembo
setup for the TL now.

I have not looked into the prices yet, but typicly, a good rotor by brembo
or ATE costs between $25.00 and $50.00 depending on how complex
and big it is.

The passat rotors were about $26.00 each, the Jaguar cost about $40.00
each.

On the Jaguar, ferodo pads worked very well, on the passat, the pbr/axxis
deluxe were fantastic, much longer lasting, low/no dust, good quiet stopping.
They cost $23.00 for 4 back pads, getcoolparts.com and other places had
free shipping and no sales tax!

The only time I ever had warped rotors on my cars was before I worked on them.
The wife's taurus went back to the dealers 2 times in under 15,000 miles.
It seems EVERY forum I am on thinks the car they own is subject to disk warping.
Go on the Jaguar list, and its known they warp disks.
Go on the passat list, and its known they warp disks.
I guess the Acura cars are the same....

Here is what I do to eliminate brake problems, try it and see if it does not work
for you.
I have had:
Chrysler:110,000 miles,
Jaguar:80,000 miles,
Taurus:60,000 miles,
Passat:27,000 miles.

I never had warped disks AFTER I did work on them.

When doing brake work, I often buy new rotors and pads, they are cheap,
I never have rotors cut, many times its just slightly less cost than nice new rotors.

Remove all the old disks and pads.
Clean the hub and the wheel, remove all dirt, rust, etc.
Coat the hub and the wheel with high temp disk brake grease, where the
parts bolt up. This prevents rust and aids in heat transfer.
I have seen cars you had to hammer the disk off it was so rusted to the hub...

When pushing the pistons in to make room for the new pads, I open the
bleed nipples to let the dirty, rusty moist fluid out, I dont push it back into
the system, that can ruin some abs systems (jaguar/teeves), and the fluid
in the calipers is the worst in the system, no reason to push it back into
the system.

I clean the calipers, the pistons, pull the piston boot back and rub a little grease
on there to prevent rust on the piston. The piston face gets a good cleaning.

Lube the caliper guide pins with the high temp grease, lube the pad to
caliper contact points with the grease, and the back of the new pads.
I dont EVER use the sticky anti squeal stuff, it just makes a huge mess
and never seems to work long/at all.

I then bleed a cup of new brake fluid through each wheel as its done, to get
the moisture and dirt/rust out.


I then do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one pattern till all are tight, with
a tourqe wrench set to 80 ft pounds.

After the work is done, I bed the new pads in by doing hard braking but
without overheating the brake parts.

After doing brakes this way, I have only had smooth quiet stops.
Even on the taurus, which went back to the dealers 2 times in 15,000
easy miles (wife's car), after the 3rd time the disks warped and I did them up,
they NEVER had problems till she traded the car in on the lincoln LS about
40,000 miles later.


Try it and see if it does not work for you.

When any shop does a brake job, they just throw new parts on rusty dirty
hubs/wheels and do the lug nuts up wwith an air impact ratchet to about
150 ft punds.
Is it any wonder people have problems?

Brett

 

srry for the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem

hopefully this will wrk
Thanx everyone for the advice im gonna steer away from cross drilled and slotted rotors

 

does the car stop quicker with drilled or slotted rotors

 

you can warp any rotor due to riding the brakes,heat is what causes it
cross drill doesnt stop faster,it helps with removing heat to last longer with out warping them,cross drilled or slotted helps alot with warping
and no they dont warp easyier-thats false
to stop quicker is more pistons in your calipers-like going from 2 to 4 or 6
stock is two pistons on autos and manuel trans
and also never get a rotor turned ,it only makes them thinner and warp easyier