Warped Brembo rotors on 2005 TL

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Old 08-06-2007, 01:11 PM
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Warped Brembo rotors on 2005 TL

I've searched the forum but haven't found much info. Has anyone else had problems with warped front rotors on a 3rd generation TL with the 6MT and Brembo brakes. My original set warped at 8K with light use.

The dealer turned them for me free of charge but I have 12K on them now and I can feel them starting to warp again.

I am driving this car so gently on a relatively scale I can't understand it. I can't even imaging taking this car to a track.

I used to take my 90 integra to the track all the time and ran stock brakes. never warped once in 180,000 miles and I drove the piss out of that car and still got 60K on the stock front pads and rotors (of course those brakes had shitty stopping power)

my gut is that the brake system isn't balanced and the rears are not contributing much to stopping so the fronts are doing all the work. this has been confirmed by an independent acura mechanic who told me the rears last forever on this car while the front wear out super fast compared to other acura's/hondas.

My brakes when they are not warped work great. I'm just one of those people who can feel even the slightest runout of the front rotors. there is no shake but that subtle surge you feel as you roll up to stop light/sign under real light braking.

i know that if I make a few hard repeated stops on the street and get them hot there gonna be toast.
Old 08-06-2007, 01:40 PM
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The TL features a brake-force distribution system; if it detects more weight in the rear section of the car it will apply more pressure to the rears while you're braking to aid in stopping the car (I think it measures all four corners actually). I think the general (maybe?) ratio is 2:1 - front brakes are taking the grunt of the stop. Are you 'floating' on the brake pedal? IE; traffic infront of you is gradually slowing so you're barely applying the brake? Excess heat can buildup from that and cause the rotors to warp. Don't ride the pedal; let off the gas, down shift, then use the brakes when you're going to actually stop the car..

I'm not saying anything about your driving skills or habbits but that's my only thought.. too much heat!



Also: The Brembos are made from a softer compound and generally will wear down faster than the brakes in the AT TL.
Old 08-06-2007, 02:34 PM
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It could be that there is a problem with the hub the brake disc mounts on.
With the new or turned discs, check for dirt, rust, etc. on the surfaces where the disc mounts to the hub.
Then install the disc and tighten it to the hub, maybe with those phillips screws, or some nuts on the lug studs.
Check the disc for runout at the outer edge with a dial indicator. The runout should be small, on the order of a few thousanths or so. Compare both sides, if one's bad it'll probably be quite a bit larger.
I think with the brembos the pistons are what move with runout of the disc, instead of the caliper mounting. That would make it more susceptible to what you describe.
Old 08-06-2007, 03:00 PM
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I had the same problem with my 04 TL. The dealer turned em, but that only lasted a little bit. I had them replaced and now they are fine. Once they get warped, there really isnt much you can do short of replacing them. The tech also told me he's seen it more than once with the Brembo system. There is a thread out there somewhere about breaking in new brakes. I think this is it:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=brakes

Hope that helps!!
Old 08-06-2007, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 6spMike
It could be that there is a problem with the hub the brake disc mounts on.
With the new or turned discs, check for dirt, rust, etc. on the surfaces where the disc mounts to the hub.
Then install the disc and tighten it to the hub, maybe with those phillips screws, or some nuts on the lug studs.
Check the disc for runout at the outer edge with a dial indicator. The runout should be small, on the order of a few thousanths or so. Compare both sides, if one's bad it'll probably be quite a bit larger.
I think with the brembos the pistons are what move with runout of the disc, instead of the caliper mounting. That would make it more susceptible to what you describe.
If and when Acura re-cuts the rotors as they did for bowton, they cut them with an "on-car" lathe. That eliminates any variables like hub run-out (from rust etc...) and makes the rotors friction surface true to the wheel-bearing. Now if there is play in the wheel bearing, this won't help and the brakes will still vibrate immediately after the work is done...

bowton: I suggest you try the bed-in procedure that sho_nuff1997 posted. This will remove any un-even pad material buildup on the rotors, and just might fix your problem. If that doesn't help, you may have to get a new set of rotors.

Did the dealer install new pads when they cut the rotors? If so, did they use the updated 07 pads or the older 04-06 pads (post part number if your unsure)?
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