Comptechtl2367

Okay i have a friend that bought a 08 3.2 TL from an auction that had a hydro locked motor. It had less then 10k miles and he got it for 11k so not bad. It ran but ran rough, money is not a problem for him so he went and took it to a shop to fix and this is what they did:
New Rods
New Valves
Reman Heads
Gaskets, Bearings, Ect
Now the car runs like new and pull like its new but at idle it has this annoying vibration once your above 1k RPM it goes away. My first thought was the motor mounts but this thing has less then 10k... any thoughts? The shop is telling him it may need cams, springs, and rocker arms which i think is BS!
I would have personaly just bought a motor out of a yard and not paid the 5k to rebuild the one that was in it... but thats another topic.

Comptechtl2367

No input from anyone?!

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

lol.

there is something severely wrong with the car.

10k miles sold for 11k? auction or not thats insane. a 08 with 12500 miles is selling for 26k, i have never been to an auction where the final price was less than half the potential resale price.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

dont rule out motor mounts completely. even if it has 10k miles, if its been in any sort of accident, that could put a lot of stress on the mounts and tear them. also, keep in mind why it hydrolocked. was it because it had a cold air intake? if so, the previous owner may have raced it or took it to the track. if driven aggressively enough, oem motor mounts wont even last 10k miles.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If there are no codes, I'm assuming that no misfire is present, but take a compression test to be certain all equal, or within reason. If it pulls strong up top, I'd discount a camshaft(s).

Here's a TSB about vibration from the subframe possibly binding:
1. Loosen the main engine mounting bolts until
they’re just finger-tight.
2. Start the engine, and set the parking brake.
3. Apply the brakes, and then shift back and forth
between Drive and Reverse several times.
4. Shift to Park, and shut off the engine.
5. Torque the main engine mounting bolts to
spec.

Also, as stated above, check all the mounts.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

i fail for not reading.

a loose bolt on a motor mount is possible, or one could be broken, i wouldnt rule it out like the others have said, my oem mounts only lasted 2.5 years

libert69

iTrader: (7)

did they pull the motor when they did the work? check the vacuum hoses for the all the mounts to make sure they are connected. a vacuum leak wouldn't necessarily cause a cel either

Comptechtl2367

Sorry for the delay, they took it back to the shop for them to find the issue. The car was a flood loss, the lady that owned it drive it into deep water. Factory intake.
Anyhow they dropped the motor for all the work and i was thinking about the vacuum hose as well but if there was leak it would have a higher idle or it would bounce.
Thanks for the TSB, ill let the shop know about that, hopefully that helps. If it doesnt i am thinking it has bad mounts.

dinks07

iTrader: (4)

I was about to say the same thing about the mounts but they beat me to it