So I posted awhile back about con concerns with shifting and I think I may have misdiagnosed my issue. It seems that the harsh shifting I was having may be what others have described as "wheel hop". Does this sound plausible? I replaced the oil pressure switches (all three on my 07 AT TL) and things seemed okay. This is a new car (to me... 130k) and I figured the light vibration I was getting was a balance/alignment/suspension issue that I wasn't seeing on visual and "pull on it to see if it moves" inspection. Things have light surface rust (like the CVs) but no broken boots. Now to my point. Vibration is much more pronounced and feels as if is a mount issue? I get nothing while idling but get vibes in the steering wheel and overall (hear it in the doors) at 50-55+ 1100 RPMs plus. Sometimes its smooth as silk other times I think my engine is shaking the whole car. Can mount issues cause this kind of "wandering" vibration. It is on its way to a more experienced tech than I, I'd just like to know what I am getting into. If it is mounts I think I would like to stick with OEM. Found CHEAP OEM at OEM Acura Parts & Acura Accessories - Bernardi Acura Parts & Accessories and was wondering of all the mounts I would need there are a total of 5 on the 07 AT correct? Before the wave of "go search" I did and basically found the AT threads taken over by people with MT experience. Anyone here done all 5 (or 6) on the 07 AT?

 

Mainly I was just looking for someone to point me to a diy if there is one for the 07 mounts. Or at least confirmation that I can apply most of the existing threads that seem to be for older models or MT.

 

I would visually inspect the passenger and driver side motor mounts. The usual test of having the car parked and reving the motor a bit to see if it shakes unusually or if you hear clunking is also a good test. You can have the hood open and someone to look inside to see if it shakes too. You don't tell us how many miles you have, but it's not unusual for the motor mounts to go bad "prematurely" and crack and leak fluid. I'd advise against going to the dealership for something like this as they'll charge you quite a lot when in the end the job isn't that difficult.

 

Most have described the mount issues as feeling a vibration at idle in gear, I get no movement at all when shifting from park>rev>drive. I get no vibration sitting or from 0 to about 45-50. I also sometimes don't feel it at all (I'd say 5 out of 10 drives are silky smooth) and when I do feel it at it's worst it jiggles the keys in the ignition and would rattle other items in the car, no real noise from the vibration as well. No noise when stopping (some rotor "judder" and this seems to be louder inside the cabin than the vibration).

My other question would be... I have VERY fresh coolant and the timing belt looks new (once again only 130k on the clock). Would it be safe to assume this has been serviced? There is a distinct lack of service records but the car seems to be in GREAT shape.

My only concern through all this (I don't mind re-hauling suspension, upgrading brakes, maybe new wheels etc) but the sometimes "sporty" feel of the transmission bothers me. I am unsure if what I am feeling is an issue brewing or just how the car drives. Most times the down shifts while braking are smooth but more often than not when slowing from under 45 (slowing from highway speeds is always fine) the 3>2 and 2>1 shifts seem harsh. I can watch the tachometer go from just below 1k and "pop" up to about 12-1300 as it downshifts. Slowing in sport mode does not do this.

My goal here is to maximaze the use of this seemingly great car I got what I consider to be a good deal (for central Ohio where Honda's and Acura's seem to carry higher values). I paid $8600 and when I picked it up there were 126k on the clock. Clean car fax (but no real maintenance records). First things I did within 200 miles of purchase... Oil change with Castrol 5w-20 synthetic (will be moving to Motorcraft after reading up here) and 2x3 transmission with Castrol Transmax Multi-Vehicle Import ATF (did not have access to RedLine or Honda at the time and it looked really dark and thin). When I measured the fluid drained it was closer to 4 qts than 3, I did drain it hot and on ramps. I also replaced all THREE oil pressure sensors and this seemed to make shifting smoother overall.

I did find a DIY wherein you clean the screens in the solenoids, would anyone suggest this?

More to your point, I have visually inspected the side engine mount and it looks as if it was serviced recently (making me think the others may have been as well when whatever was done that required fresh coolant). I will take a peek at the side tranny mount, is this visable without taking off the wheel and wheel well shield on the 07? I know the 07-08s are different and that is the only thing holding me back from pulling the mounts just to look at them.

 

I still think they might be a bit off, I like to have work done in the Central Ohio area by IPS Motorsports - Ohio's Premier Performance Shop and Tuning Facility... That being said they say only the front mount is bad, what is the likelihood the rear is as well? They also blamed the vibration on the Goodyear Eagle GTs on the car (almost brand new all the way around, I suspect installed by the broker I bought it from). I feel a little at idle but the worst is at highway speeds. This would still be the mount, and only the mount? Why only the front (not front right from what they told me)? I assume I should do at least the front, front right, and rear no?

Bright side is Rock Auto had the Aisin water pump at $177. They are doing the install for just under $450 (I get a slight discount on labor there).

I appreciate you guys putting up with me and my rambling. I really would like to thank everyone for their input.

 

I guess I will just be talking to myself at this point. I hope something I said or did didn't offend anyone.

Long story short I am going to undertake the timing belt change myself. I have the Haynes and the Chilton manual. Read over the DIY in the garage, several youtube videos and as much of the posts as I could sift through. I would really appreciate any tips or things to keep in mind. Any part of the process you would do differently? The manual says to crank over the pulley bolt 6 times after you are done to check that you haven't messed anything up. I can't recall but no one seems to do this when talking about the install. Is is for sure suggested no? I am running a little low on cash, would anyone condone the use of Denso or even Bosch IR plugs? The NGKs are almost twice the price anywhere I can find them and I will pay it if they really are that much better. The Densos were at least under $9.

 

let me know how you make out buddy. I have a similar issue and I have the same tires but they are brand new along with brand new rims which have been road forced balanced and the specs are perfect... I am also thinking this could be mount related??

 

How many miles? I just ordered the parts... Have you done the TB before?

 

I got 200,000km on er. TB has been done, as I said tires are brand new along with new rims road forced all ok! However, my rear rotors are shot! calliper may be stuck too, which as far as I know could cause a shake at high speeds and it def has a pulse when braking so I bought new callipers, rotors and pads...car does have a slight shake at idle so I bought spark plugs. Ill be throwing all these parts on come spring, car is parked for winter. Haven't got a good look at suspension components yet to see if anything is tweaked, but bought front and rear end links and bushings just to see..

If all else fails Ill replace the mounts, I don't mind throwing parts at it.

 

Right, have you ever done any of the mounts? My right side mount looks very new, with 130 miles I would assume some if not all the engine mounts have been done. Our transmission mounts are different from the 04-06 (and early 07 from what I am told) have you ever addressed these? I am curious to know if the front is bad how likely the rear is too.